Northern Thailand
This was probably one of my favorite bike rides in Thailand; we
decided as we would do a lot of biking and camping all along the
northern peninsula we would take the bike on the train to save
riding time, Bangkok to Chiang Mai on the bike is about a 14 to 16
hour trip.
This was the first time I took a bike on a train so I was excited, I
didn’t know what to expect.
First was the weigh in to ensure I was not over weight with the
bike as there is a limit.
Then the ride down the platform to the front cattle wagon, I fist
thought we would possibly use a Crain or a ramp, was amused to
find it was to be lifted on by a few lads.
We did the overnight trip which sets off around 19.30 hour, we got
a second class sleeper which are bunk beds, it is a great
experience we sat in the café at the front of the train ate had a
few beers and then off to sleep. It was a pretty comfortable ride
and we slept well
.
We woke up at around 6 am by that time we had arrived at the
Central highlands and entering all the mountain jungle, just sitting
in the café having breakfast which was surprisingly very good
watching station after station which where blooming with flowers,
as if each village wanted to showcase their village.
We arrived in Chiang Mai station at 08.30am
That was a great adventure, getting the bike off now was also fun
waiting with anticipation, I had over packed the bike as you can
see in the photo’s, I think in most countries this would be totally
illegal to ride with so much tide to the bike.
We took our time riding through Chiang Mai as it was a cool,
beautiful day, perfect biking weather, I may add this time of year
which was the first week of December goes down to 5 degree c in
the mountains or even colder.
We had just missed the famous Chiang Mai bike week, but this
was well timed as we wanted to enjoy the riding alone, as all this
area is full of bikers over this festival with over 5000 bikers each
year.
About two hours into the trip we decided to cool off and have a
hot drink, Porn had some dancing shrimps, as I have explained in
other trips these baby shrimps are eaten alive marinated with
some lemongrass, chili and other ingredients. The difference this
time was they where fresh from the river.
Our first point was to find somewhere in the golden triangle to set
up camp, we found this beautiful place right on the edge of the
Mekong River (which runs from Tibet down to the Vietnam delta)
The first night was very cold, especially as we are both not used
to the cold weather. We cooked a small BBQ and had some
Samsong, a local rum, although the Thai’s call it whiskey, it’s
made from sugar cane, just did the job.
Second day we went further up the top corner of Thailand near
the Laos border, this time we found a place with small bamboo
shacks, this was nice although we brought the tent we where not
necessary going to use it every night.
We spent all in all around 14 days just enjoying the nature,
making BBQ’s, fishing and finding little local restaurants.
On one of the trips we found a hot spring, where we stayed a
couple of days. I can’t remember the name of the village, they
where so nice to us, as always on our bike trips, the Thai people
where always fascinated at us actually touring round there
country on a bike.
The local councilor had been fascinated by our trip and asked us
to stay in his place, they had a local hot spring in their back
garden and we all sat there in the coldest of nights in skimpy
cloths drinking Samsong and having fun.
At breakfast time you may see us actually boiling our eggs in the
spring water this was fascinating for me as a chef.
On the last couple of days in the north, we decided on a well
deserved break from cold showers, camping, small bamboo huts
etc, we checked into the Anantara there a five star deluxe resort;
we spoiled our self to a suit overlooking the rice paddies into
Laos.
The bath tub was big enough to swim in, had its own self
contained bar, beautiful balcony with a Thai bed outside with a
mosquito net covering. We went down to the opium bar where
they had a hug log fire in the middle of a stone cask, as it was
very cold it was a treat, this set us in the right mode for our
journey back
On the trip back somewhere in the middle of the mountains I had
attracted some attention of the local border control police unit.
Who where fascinated at my bike and how I packed it, in Thailand
one gets used to being stopped by the police sometimes only to
look at the bike or alternately a bribe, as it is a form of extra
income for them.
This time they spent all their time interrogating my wife, as there
is a huge illegal immigrant issue there, even though she is Thai
she was still questioned, I was ushered off into the back of the
office, where the cops offered me some local whiskey.
I obviously declined, but then they where happy sharing their
local pornographic magazines with me, pointing out on each
page.
When I came out my wife assumed I had had to pay some cash, I
just said come on lets go I couldn’t tell her there and then, I could
hardly compose myself knowing she was being asked so many
questions and for once the Police where not asking me to pay for
what ever traffic law I had supposedly broken.
We stopped down the road for a hot drink, man I can tell you her
language was not pretty when I told her how “well” they had
treated me.