Güneş Enerjisinden Elektrik Elde Etmek İçin Devreler
Bu sitede ki devreler yardımıyla güneş enerjisi panellerini kullanarak elektrik enerjisi elde edip
değişik şarj aletleri tasarlayabilirsiniz.. Ticari amaçla kullanılması yasak olan bu devreleri kendi amaçlarınız doğrultusunda
geliştirerek kullanabilirsiniz. Buradaki linke tıklayarak da tamamlanmış çalışmalara ulaşabilirsiniz.
- Circuits -
Commercial usage is prohibited unless arrangements are made
Note: All of the circuits on this page are for Personal use only.
with the patent holder Mark W. Tilden mwtilden@lanl.gov.
Printable quick reference guide
Solar engines - SE’s are small circuits that gather energy from the sun, store it in a capacitor, and then release the energy to drive a motor, coil, another circuit.... Note
that the 1381 and FLED SE’s can only drive a motor or coil.
1381 SE - One of the more popular SE’s because it’s simple and easy to build.
FLED SE - If you can’t find the 1381 voltage detector in your area try this SE. It uses a much more common FLED.
D1 SE - Charges all day, runs at night. Think noctibot here.
PM1 SE - This circuit it like the 1381 SE except you can run not just motors and coils. Use it for just about anything.
Photovores - A photovore is a robot that moves towards the brightest source of light, or if it’s solar powered, food.
Photopopper - The photopopper is the most common solar powered photovore.
iVore - The iVore is great because it’s VERY easy to build and tracks the light perfectly. A favorite when I’m doing demos.
BEAMant - A bicore controlled photovore. Works good but doesn’t track very well in low light.
Bicore circuits - The bicore is the foundation for allot of BEAM robots. It’s just a simple oscillator but when grouped together can produce complex behaviors.
Suspended bicore - Basic bicore.
Light seeking head - The motor "neck" turns the electronics "head" to look at the brightest source of light.
Walker circuits - A few complete designs I’ve put together.
CW1 - Simple to build and has a reversing sensor so when your walker bumps into an object it will respond and backup.
CW2 - Slightly more complex than CW1 and will make your walker turn when it encounters an object.
CW3 -Same as CW2 except that it will backup and then turn after bumping an object.
CW4 - A basic four motor walker utilizing a dual CW1 circuit architecture.
Motor drivers - All the walker designs above require motor drivers. A motor driver basically can take a weak signal from an input and amplify it. H-bridge - A good but
slightly complex motor driver.
ALS245 driver - Simple design.
Servo driver - This circuit will allow you to drive standard hobby servos without the need to modify them.
Sensor circuits - Sensors and circuits to add to your bots to make them more adaptable or just plain cool.
240 Signal inverting circuit - AKA: Reverser. This circuit is used to make walkers backup and on four motor designs, turn.
IR object detector - A cool circuit that will enable your robot to detect an object before it even touches it. Other - Some other useful circuits that may not
nesasarilly be used for BEAM. Battery Charger - Want to but a rechargeable batteries on your walker but need a way to charge them? Look no further.
FM radio transmitter - A simple circuit that could be used for say, a wireless mic.
1381 Solar
Engine
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- 3v+ Solar Cell Motor
2.2K Resister NPN 2N3904 Transistor
PNP 2N3906 Transistor 2500uF to
10F Capacitor CMOS 1381J Voltage
Detector
Notes: This is the most popular SE because of it’s efficiency and reliability. It uses a 1381 Voltage Detector that can be found at Digi-Key in
transistor and SMT packages. What this circuit does is..... 1. The solar cell starts charging the capacitor and the voltage rises 2. As soon as the
capacitor reaches 2.7v the 1381 turns pin 1 high and turns the 3904 ON 3. When the 3904 turns on it brings the base of the 3906 low which
turns it ON 4. With the 3906 ON current is supplied to the base of the 3904 which keeps it ON 5. Now current can flow through the motor and it
turns 6. When the voltage gets down to .7v the transistors turn OFF and the process is repeated Check out some solarollers I’ve built with this
circuit.
FLED Solar
Engine
Parts ------------------------------------------
-------------------- Solar Cell 2500uF to
10F Capacitor NPN 2N3904
Transistor PNP 2N2906 Transistor
FLED, Green, Flashing LED (aka;
Blinking LED) 2.2K ohm Resister
Motor
Notes: The FLED version of the SE is less efficient than the 1381 version. The operation is basically the same as the 1381 version, but uses a
FLED instead of a 1381 Voltage Detector. Check out some solarollers I’ve built with this circuit.
PM1 Solar
Engine
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- Solar Cell 1N4001
Diode 3300uF-10F capacitor (C1)
2N7000 MOSFET 1381 J Voltage
detector 47K ohm resister 2 - .47uF
capacitors
Notes: This is an SE that can drive a bicore. Good for solar walkers, heads and more. For C1 I would recommend somewhere in the 4000uF
range for a head and in the Farad range for a walker. If you would like to be able to control when your robot moves just put a switch across the
source and drain of the 7000. Just make sure you turn the switch off when it runs out of juice or else it won’t charge.
D1 Solar
Engine
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- Solar Cell 1N4001
Diode Large Capacitor (1F) or battery
2N7000 MOSFET 150K ohm Variable
Resister
Notes: This is a neat circuit that comes alive when it gets dark. You can adjust the sensitivity using the 150K variable resister. The outputs can
be connected to a LED bicore or whatever you want.
Suspended
Bicore
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- 74xxx240 2 - .22uF bi-
polar caps ( 224 on cap ) 100K - 10M
ohm resister Motor 3V
PCB layout on request
Notes: The resister goes between the two ®’s. You can see that only two of the inverters are used and the rest are used for upping the current
so you can drive a motor directly. I do advise thou if you are going to drive a motor directly that you use the 74AC240 instead of the HCT. In
order to drive a walker you’ll need to know a little more about the bicore so check out the FAQ for more info. Another good application of the
bicore is a head, read the FAQ for more info.
Photopopper
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- Solar Cell 3300µF Cap
100K Variable Resister 2 - Motors 2 -
Photo Diodes 2 - 2.2K Resisters 2 -
CMOS 1381J Voltage Detectors 2 -
NPN 2N3904 Transistor 2 - PNP
2N3906 Transistor 2 - .22µF Cap (
The number on the cap is 224 ) 2 -
Tactile sensors 2 - 680K Resisters
Notes: This is the same circuit used in Solarbotics PhotoPopper Kit. It uses two photo diodes to detect and move towards the brightest source
of light. If your bot moves too much to the right or left you can adjust the 100K pot. Check out some photovores I’ve built with this circuit.
H-Bridge
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- 2 - 50K or higher
resistors 4 - NPN 2N3904 Transistors
2 - PNP 2N3906 Transistors Motor
PCB layout on request
Here is the free form layout I use to free form my H-bridges. It’s really easy and can be done in about 10 minutes depending on your skill level.
All the pins are facing up. Click here for a page on how to freeform the h-bridge.
Reverser
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- 74HCT240 2 - 1.6M
resisters 2 - 30uF capacitors 2 -
Tactile sensors 4 - 47K resisters
Notes: This is a very easy circuit to build and can give lots of functionality to your walker including reversing and turning. Check the FAQ for
more info on incorporating this into your walker. If you need it to reverse you signal for a longer or shorter time replace the 30uF capacitor with a
smaller value or larger value.
Phototropic
Suspended
Bicore
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- 74xxx240 2 - .22uF bi-
polar caps ( 224 on cap ) 2 -
photodiodes Motor (geared) 3V
This is the circuit used for making a light seeking "head". You’ll need to use a geared motor and a motor driver such as the h-bridge if your going
to use it for a head. Pins are facing down.
The Almost
Complete
Walker
Schematic
with reverser
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- 74xxx240 4 - .22 uF bi-
polar capacitors (Violet) 30 uF
capacitor (Orange) 2 - 47K resistors
(Green) 3 - 1.6M resistors (Red) 2.5M
resistor (Blue) Motor drivers + Geared
motors (M) Tactile Sensor 4.8v
Wow one of the few "complete" walker schematics on the net! This is a master/slave (two bicores, the slave syncs to the master to create a
good walking motion) bicore setup with reverser. Look here to learn how to make a tactile sensor. You will need to replace the (M)’s with motor
drivers and geared motors. An H-bridge works good as a motor driver and hobby servos work good for motors. Pins are facing up.
Battery
Charger
Parts ------------------------------------------
------------------- Battery Pack 100mA
Wall transformer LED 10K resister
1N4001 Diode 1000uF capacitor
Notes: Make SURE all your polarities are right and there aren’t any shorts before you plug it in. You’ll need to find a wall transformer that has a
current rating of around 100mA. Digi-key has one (Part# T206-ND) The best batteries i’ve found are cordless phone batteries and can be found
almost anywhere. Possibly in your own home, just make sure your parents aren’t watching. hehehehe
Creator: Friedrich J. Tragauer
Web Site: Sun Beam
Bot Name: Solaroller 1
Description: My first solaroller. I also have step by step instructions on how to build the mechanics of it on
my web site.
Creator: Kristoffer
Web Site: Robot Central
Bot name: Speedoroller
Description: This is my first BEAM creation ever. it’s the LM 3909 solarengine and is very SLOW!. It isn’t
really what the name say’s :-)
Creator: Ivar Thorson
Web Site: Basic BEAM Robotics
Bot name: ??????
Description: A solaroller. It’s a 3 wheeler, with the back two wheels powered by a walkman motor, and the
front wheel attached by some small wire. It is pretty fast, and does a "wheelie" every time it fires. My first
BEAM ’bot. I used a walkman motor and 3 little rubber "cassette pincher" thingys as wheels. It only took me
about an hour to build.
Creator: Ivar Thorson
Web Site: Basic BEAM Robotics
Bot name: ??????
Description: My first solaroller (above) was reincarnated in this high(er) performance BEAM beast. I set out
to make a solaroller that had more speed than the original one, and I wanted less of a "pop" movement and
more "vroom". After soldering the thing together 6-8 times (not kidding, I am a miserable at soldering), I
finally got it to work. Was I surprised! With the current 0.1 Farad capacitor I have on the solaroller, it will
charge up in about 20 seconds (3:00PM, mostly sunny day), and go consistently 28 inches in one "vroom!".
The design has two key things that affect it’s performance: the size of the capacitor, anda unique little
mistake that makes the solaroller coast when the motor has stopped running. There is a rubber pinchroller
that is attached to the output shaft of the motor with the hole drilled off center. The pinchroller touches the
wheel to power the solaroller. When the off-centered pinchroller spins, it shakes almost like a pager motor
with a weight attached. Because of this shaking motion, the pinchroller only touches the wheel for about half
of it’s rotation. The solaroller accelerates fine, even with only half it’s rotation being harnessed. When the
entire capacitor has been emptied, the solaroller had enough momentum to turn over the motor half a turn,
which then moves the off-centered pinchroller away from the wheel. Now the solaroller is in coast, and goes
for about 10 inches or so with no power. By the way, the wheel is a another pinchroller from a VCR, making
the design a bicycle with a wide back tire. With some tweaking in capacitor size and other parts, it could do a
complete meter in less than 30 seconds, I am guessing. Almost competitive with some of the other
solarollers out there.
Creator: Miller
Web Site: Solarbotics
Bot name: ??????
Description: A very speedy solaroller. When operating correctly, it’ll cover the one meter drag strip in 12
seconds in noon-day sunlight. It unfortunately got hung up on the starting line at the ’95 BEAM games, and
did not finish. Built from brass & aluminum tubing and utilizing a large fine-tooth gear as a rear wheel, this
bearinged solaroller looked like it had the event zipped up...until that 11 year old showed up with his giant
killer (hopefully picture to come).
Creator: Dave
Web Site: Solarbotics
Bot name: Sluggy
Description: The BEAM ’94 Solaroller Champ! (1 meter in 2 min 9 sec). One of my first BEAM devices, it was
the one to bring the world of solaroller racing down from the 15 and 25 minute marks to the under 3 minute
marks. Just like any other technology, evolution produces better and better devices.
Creator: Dave
Web Site: Solarbotics
Bot name: Herbie
Description: My 4WD Solaroller, Herbie. Constructed from Walkman & pager castoffs. Herbie has been a
favorite of kids, and thus is currently in need of a little TLC (tools, luck, & copper) to return to his former state
of performance. In daylight Herbie would charge for 30 seconds and sprint approximately 7 inches.
Unfortunately, the short wheelbase makes Herbie travel in not-so-straight lines, which is quite detrimental in
class-2 Solaroller drag races where there are obstacles to overcome. Construction is 1/8" copper-clad
welding rod (TIG rod); brass tubing, one walkman, one pager motor, and one type-2 HBS based solarengine.
Creator: Chris Daniel
Web Site: BEAM Robotics
Bot name: Speedy
Description: Speedy originally used a 0.033F cap, but the internal resistance was too high, so now it has a
1F cap until I get a smaller one. It’s very fast, but it takes a LONG time to charge. When it does fire, it goes
for about 30 seconds.