Pattern Alterations

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					Pattern Alterations

# 25-35
                 Width Adjustments – Bicep

                              Cut through seam allowance at
                                dot at top of sleeve cap.
                                Remove seam allowance down
                                to elbow dart and equivalent
                                length on matching seam line.
                              Pull underarm seamlines out
                                amount needed (divide by 2).
                              Be sure to not add width in sleeve
Try to avoid bulge or curve     underarm near notches.
on bicep edge unless figure   This will add length to sleeve cap
really demands it.              seamline.
                                Sometimes this can be
                                advantageous, sometimes a
                                problem.
     Width Adjustments –
     Bicep
             • For narrow bicep, push
               seam allowances in. Let
               seam allowance at top of
               cap rise (adds cap
               height.) This usually fits
               the narrow, probably more
               angular arm.
**       *   • Don’t overlap below
               underarm notches.(*’s)
     Width Adjustments –
        Lower Arm Girth
To widen the lower arm, pinch the seam
  allowance below the elbow darts and at
  a matching place on the corresponding
  seam edge on the other side of the
  sleeve.
Cut the seam allowance up to the lower leg
  of the lower elbow dart and down to the
  wrist and up to the same level on the
  matching seam allowance and down to
  the wrist. Hinge at each end of these
  cuts.
Cut several hinges in each seam
  allowance.
Pull each seam allowance out ½ the
  amount needed.
Be sure the shape on each edge matches
  the other.
Tape.
              Width Adjustments –
              Chest Width
              Pinch armscye seam allowance above
                notch and cut seam allowance up to
                shoulder corner and down to notch.
              • Hinge both ends of this
                  cut.
Broad chest
              • Make several clips in   Narrow chest
                 seam allowance.
              • Pull out or push in ½
                 needed amount.
              • Armscye length will
                probably change.
                        Width Adjustments –
                        Upper Back Width
                       This alteration is done exactly
                        like the chest alteration except
                        it is for the bodice back.
                                            Narrow upper back
Broad upper back
                   Arrows indicate hinges
          Width Adjustments –
          Shoulders
          Cut through shoulder seam
             allowance near armscye and
             cut along armscye seam
             allowance to notch in
             underarm.
          Hinge shoulder corner and end of
             cut.
          Pull shoulder corner out ½
             needed amount for broad                     overlap

          shoulders.
hinge     Push in ½ amount needed for            hinge
          narrow shoulders.
          **Do not let corner drop or rise in
          relation to waist.
  hinge   **This alteration can change
             armscye length.                  hinge
Width Adjustments –
Shoulders
 To keep shoulder corner from
  dropping or rising, draw a line
  perpendicular to CF or CB
  through original shoulder
  corner.
 When replacing seam
  allowance make sure new
  corner stays on this line.
   Angular Adjustments-

• Varying shoulder slopes are
  extremely common.
• Below is a common standard.
                                Look for U shaped
                                wrinkle or stress in
                                shoulder seam.
    Angular Adjustments
       Square Shoulders
If Square shoulders have less angle
   than the pattern.

  Cut through the side seam above the
  horizontal bust dart and cut on seam
  allowance all the way up to the
  neck/shoulder corner.
Hinge neck/shoulder corner, shoulder/armscye
  corner, and underarm corner.
Raise shoulder seam allowance needed
  amount at end of shoulder
AND raise underarm the SAME AMOUNT.
  Don’t add chest width.
This will make a longer side seam.
Bodice back must also be altered.
Angular Adjustments-
Sloping Shoulders
   When shoulders slope more than the
     pattern, cut through side seam
     allowance and remove seam
     allowance all the way up to the
     neck/shoulder corner
   Hinge shoulder/neck corner,
     shoulder/armscye corner, and
     underarm corner.
   Drop shoulder end needed amount
     AND
   Drop underarm the SAME AMOUNT.
     Don’t decrease chest width.
   This will shorten the side seam.
   Alter the back bodice the same
     amount and the same way.
   Red lines show original seamlines.
Angular Adjustments-
Forward Rolling Shoulders
• Left below – unaltered front with
   forward roll
• Middle below– side view unaltered
• Lower right – shoulder seam moved
  forward
Angular Adjustments-
Forward Rolling Shoulders
To accommodate the moved shoulder
  joint, cut through the back armscye
  seam allowance above the underarm
  notches and cut all the way up to the
  neck/shoulder corner.
Hinge the shoulder end corner, and the
  neck/shoulder corner.
Raise the shoulder seam end the
  needed amount, allowing the back
  armscye to lengthen. (see green
  gap above double notch).
Sometimes this alteration does
  require more width across upper
  back as well.
Redraw dart.
Angular Adjustments-
Forward Rolling Shoulders
Locate and measure the double
  ended dartlike wrinkle that results
  on the chest from the forward roll
  of the shoulders.
Mark off lines perpendicular to both
  ends of the wrinkle, one that runs
  through the shoulder corner, and
  others in between.
Measure the tuck width at the tuck
  end of each line.
         Angular Adjustments-
     Forward Rolling Shoulders
Cut through the armscye seam allowance and
  remove the seam allowance up to the
  neck/shoulder corner.
Hinge neck/shoulder corner and shoulder/ armscye
  corner.
Add several slashes along armscye seam
  allowance.
Push shoulder/armscye corner in on the diagonal,
  following the guideline an amount equal to the
  tuck width on the other end of the corner
  guideline.
This may make the shoulder seam buckle. If so,
  cut through neck corner and flatten shoulder
  seam allowance. Redraw neck seam, blending
  into original midway along neck edge.
Dashed red lines are the old seamlines.
Angular Adjustments-
Forward Rolling Shoulders
 Push in the armscye seam
  allowance the same way,
  moving it along each guideline
  the width of the tuck.
 This will create a longer,more
  curved armscye.

 Red lines show original
  seamlines.
 Angular Adjustments-
 Forward Rolling Shoulders
Cut through back of sleeve cap seam
  allowance above double notch and cut
  around to single notch.
Hinge seam allowance liberally.
Move seam allowance forward an amount
  equal to amount added to bodice back
  armscye.
               Flatten out extra seam
                  allowance as shown, creating
                  a more rounded front sleeve
                  cap seamline.
               ** Notice dot at top of cap has
                  moved forward (red arrow =
                  old dot; black arrow = new
                  dot). This maintains the dot
                  position on the seam
                  allowance.

				
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posted:11/25/2011
language:English
pages:17