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Pattern Alterations # 25-35 Width Adjustments – Bicep Cut through seam allowance at dot at top of sleeve cap. Remove seam allowance down to elbow dart and equivalent length on matching seam line. Pull underarm seamlines out amount needed (divide by 2). Be sure to not add width in sleeve Try to avoid bulge or curve underarm near notches. on bicep edge unless figure This will add length to sleeve cap really demands it. seamline. Sometimes this can be advantageous, sometimes a problem. Width Adjustments – Bicep • For narrow bicep, push seam allowances in. Let seam allowance at top of cap rise (adds cap height.) This usually fits the narrow, probably more angular arm. ** * • Don’t overlap below underarm notches.(*’s) Width Adjustments – Lower Arm Girth To widen the lower arm, pinch the seam allowance below the elbow darts and at a matching place on the corresponding seam edge on the other side of the sleeve. Cut the seam allowance up to the lower leg of the lower elbow dart and down to the wrist and up to the same level on the matching seam allowance and down to the wrist. Hinge at each end of these cuts. Cut several hinges in each seam allowance. Pull each seam allowance out ½ the amount needed. Be sure the shape on each edge matches the other. Tape. Width Adjustments – Chest Width Pinch armscye seam allowance above notch and cut seam allowance up to shoulder corner and down to notch. • Hinge both ends of this cut. Broad chest • Make several clips in Narrow chest seam allowance. • Pull out or push in ½ needed amount. • Armscye length will probably change. Width Adjustments – Upper Back Width This alteration is done exactly like the chest alteration except it is for the bodice back. Narrow upper back Broad upper back Arrows indicate hinges Width Adjustments – Shoulders Cut through shoulder seam allowance near armscye and cut along armscye seam allowance to notch in underarm. Hinge shoulder corner and end of cut. Pull shoulder corner out ½ needed amount for broad overlap shoulders. hinge Push in ½ amount needed for hinge narrow shoulders. **Do not let corner drop or rise in relation to waist. hinge **This alteration can change armscye length. hinge Width Adjustments – Shoulders To keep shoulder corner from dropping or rising, draw a line perpendicular to CF or CB through original shoulder corner. When replacing seam allowance make sure new corner stays on this line. Angular Adjustments- • Varying shoulder slopes are extremely common. • Below is a common standard. Look for U shaped wrinkle or stress in shoulder seam. Angular Adjustments Square Shoulders If Square shoulders have less angle than the pattern. Cut through the side seam above the horizontal bust dart and cut on seam allowance all the way up to the neck/shoulder corner. Hinge neck/shoulder corner, shoulder/armscye corner, and underarm corner. Raise shoulder seam allowance needed amount at end of shoulder AND raise underarm the SAME AMOUNT. Don’t add chest width. This will make a longer side seam. Bodice back must also be altered. Angular Adjustments- Sloping Shoulders When shoulders slope more than the pattern, cut through side seam allowance and remove seam allowance all the way up to the neck/shoulder corner Hinge shoulder/neck corner, shoulder/armscye corner, and underarm corner. Drop shoulder end needed amount AND Drop underarm the SAME AMOUNT. Don’t decrease chest width. This will shorten the side seam. Alter the back bodice the same amount and the same way. Red lines show original seamlines. Angular Adjustments- Forward Rolling Shoulders • Left below – unaltered front with forward roll • Middle below– side view unaltered • Lower right – shoulder seam moved forward Angular Adjustments- Forward Rolling Shoulders To accommodate the moved shoulder joint, cut through the back armscye seam allowance above the underarm notches and cut all the way up to the neck/shoulder corner. Hinge the shoulder end corner, and the neck/shoulder corner. Raise the shoulder seam end the needed amount, allowing the back armscye to lengthen. (see green gap above double notch). Sometimes this alteration does require more width across upper back as well. Redraw dart. Angular Adjustments- Forward Rolling Shoulders Locate and measure the double ended dartlike wrinkle that results on the chest from the forward roll of the shoulders. Mark off lines perpendicular to both ends of the wrinkle, one that runs through the shoulder corner, and others in between. Measure the tuck width at the tuck end of each line. Angular Adjustments- Forward Rolling Shoulders Cut through the armscye seam allowance and remove the seam allowance up to the neck/shoulder corner. Hinge neck/shoulder corner and shoulder/ armscye corner. Add several slashes along armscye seam allowance. Push shoulder/armscye corner in on the diagonal, following the guideline an amount equal to the tuck width on the other end of the corner guideline. This may make the shoulder seam buckle. If so, cut through neck corner and flatten shoulder seam allowance. Redraw neck seam, blending into original midway along neck edge. Dashed red lines are the old seamlines. Angular Adjustments- Forward Rolling Shoulders Push in the armscye seam allowance the same way, moving it along each guideline the width of the tuck. This will create a longer,more curved armscye. Red lines show original seamlines. Angular Adjustments- Forward Rolling Shoulders Cut through back of sleeve cap seam allowance above double notch and cut around to single notch. Hinge seam allowance liberally. Move seam allowance forward an amount equal to amount added to bodice back armscye. Flatten out extra seam allowance as shown, creating a more rounded front sleeve cap seamline. ** Notice dot at top of cap has moved forward (red arrow = old dot; black arrow = new dot). This maintains the dot position on the seam allowance.
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