Anno 3 numero 49 - Firenze Thursday 8 February 2007
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Big Brother Media empire To whom we Making
gets bigger thwarted owe it all connections
through theater
20 additional anti-rape Anti-monopoly bill The legacy of Day of memory takes
surveillance cameras angers Berlusconi Lady de’ Medici center stage at FITC event
around centre
by Mary Ann Pinto by P.M. Louis
see pg.4 see pg. 6 see pg. 18 see pg. 21
Silver River sings the blues MOBILE
MISBEHAVIOUR
Below-average water levels threaten the Arno Cell phone abuse rampant
in local schools
W
ithout the Arno, Florence would be like Romolo without Remo. Yet once again, the
dangerously low water levels in Tuscany’s most legendary waterway has caused some
to become increasingly concerned about the fate of the city’s most distinctive trade-
mark. In fact, water levels are down in most of the region’s fresh-water basins, with both the
parched Mugnone and Lake Bilancino recording considerable decreases in water levels com-
pared to last year’s records.
While most environmental experts have been pointing their fingers at the milder and drier-
than-usual temperatures experienced this winter, they do caution against declaring a water
shortage a ‘state of emergency’. In fact, the majority of experts are waiting until the summer
in order to reassess the bleak situation, while remaining hopeful that a rainy spring will bring
water levels back up to average. Others instead seem to blame the Arno’s excessive aridness
on the ‘crazed river’ itself. According to environmental councilor, Claudio Del Lungo, history has
shown that the Arno is capable of just about anything: ‘one day in 1985, the recorded water lev-
els were frighteningly low, while just 20 years prior Florence was almost completely drowned
by the flood’. The river is prone to go from torrents to trickles, and back again, it seems. While
experts have unanimously refuted to declare a state of emergency, the rest of us are left remi-
niscing of Florence’s beloved silver river. A rmed with cellular phones,
teenage bullies have become
as terrifying as a pack of hungry
lions hunting for prey. In wake of
the recent string of indecent, vio-
lent episodes involving teens and
mobile phone use, many have
been questioning the degree to
which teens should be punished
for committing such harmful acts.
Questions abound. Are they too
young to be able to appreciate the
consequences of their actions?
Where do we draw the line regard-
ing cell phone use and ‘abuse’?
Should juvenile laws be amended
in order to address such misbe-
haviour by way of mobiles?
see pg. 2
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2 News & Views
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
PICK-UP POINTS Florence NEWS
www.theflorentine.net continued from pg. 1
Want to know where to pick up your free copy?
MOBILE MISBEHAVIOUR
Visit our website to find out specific addresses. Cell phone abuse rampant in local schools
Meanwhile, photos and video clips
Bookstores of beatings and violence toward
BM Bookshop, British Library, Edison, Feltrinelli International, Libreria del other classmates, sexually explicit
shots and even videos of sex in the
Porcellino, Mandragora Book and Art Stores, McRae Bookstore, Newsagent
classroom continue to send shock
Piazza della Repubblica, Newsagent Via Pellicceria, Paperback Exchange waves throughout Italian schools.
Last week, a middle school in the
Bars, cafes and restaurants province of Florence was added
Art Bar, Hemingway, Caffetteria Piansa, Colle Bereto, Danny Rock, Darvish to the long list of sites of incidents
Café, Eby’s, Eccoci!, La Sosta del Rossellino, Finnegan Irish Pub, Frescobaldi involving teenagers and mobile and enroll her in a private school in
restaurant and winebar, Galanti delicatessen, I Visacci art café, Il Santo phone misuse. order to save her daughter from the
A middle school in Calenzano is pain of being incessantly heckled in
Bevitore, J.J.Hill Pub. ,J.J.Cathedral, Maioli Bar, Moyo, Old Stove Irish Pub, Ora
still reeling after a photo of a girl’s the school corridor.
d’Aria, Prince Food Point, Sei Divino! Winebar, Snack Bar Anna, Tabaccheria backside was shot by bullying boys A verbal battle consequently
Ricchi, Teatro del Sale, The Lion’s Fountain Pub, Tijuana, Vestri, Zoe on a cell phone and then passed ensued between the girl’s mother,
around from one schoolmate to who accused the principal of not
Shops another until the entire school got punishing the boys enough for their
Baroni Cheese Shop, Ceri Vintage, Conti’s Vegetable Stand, Ethic, Jimmy’s wind of the photo. It all happened act; the school principal, who issued
Bakery, La Bottega D’Arte Lastrucci. Maison Dumitru, Monastica, Oil Shoppe, while in religion class, when a boy a memo advising all girls attending
pulled down the 13-year-old girl’s the school that they were not to come
Tamarino Stampe d’Arte
trousers in order to get a snapshot of to school wearing low-rise pants; and
her bare bottom. He and his friends the mother of the accused, who con-
Salons, health and sport clubs then mocked her into silence and the tends that even though her son made
Fonbliù, Hair Force, Klab Wellness Gym, Vivarium Gym, International Hair photo began circulating on cellular a mistake, ‘he didn’t even touch the
Studio, Circolo del Golf dell’Ugolino, Società Canottieri Firenze phones throughout the school for girl’. According to the boy’s mother,
several days until the intimidated girl the three-day suspension from school,
Travel & tourist finally told her parents about what which he did received from the princi-
happened. Needless to say, her pal, was punishment enough. Instead,
Tourist Information Offices: Via Manzoni - Via Cavour - Florence airport - mother was outraged and appalled. the school principal remains strong in
Firenze SMN – Piazza Stazione - Borgo S.Croce - Fiesole After failing in several attempts to her conviction that she ‘did the right
speak with the school principal, thing’ in punishing the boy and issu-
Hotels the woman went to the police and ing the memo banning low-rise pants.
reported the crime to local Cara- Meanwhile the victim of the crime has
B&B Il Salotto di Firenze, Classic Hotel, Gallery Art Hotel, Grand Hotel, Grand
binieri. After days of humiliation and been forced to change schools in
Hotel Mediterraneo, Hotel Aprile - Palazzo dal Borgo, Hotel Brunelleschi, embarrassment, the girl’s mother order to overcome the trauma caused
Hotel Cestelli, Hotel Continental, Hotel Cosimo de’ Medici, Hotel David, Hotel decided to pull her from the school by such an experience.
Lungarno, Hotel JK Place, Residence Hilda, Savoy Hotel, Serristori Palace,
Sofitel, Westin Excelsior
Reversing the brain drain
Schools
ABC School, API Italy - Academic Program International, Accademia Euro-
pea, Accademia Italiana, Accent, Angel Academy of Art, Art Studio FUJI, The
British Institute of Florence, California State University. CAPA Study Center U.S. initiative aimed at encouraging Italian entrepreneurs
Abroad, CEA Cultural Experience Abroad, Centro Fiorenza, CET Academic
Programs, CLIDA Centro Linguistico Dante Alighieri, Eurocentre, Europass
Studi Europei, European University, Fashion Design Lab, Farfield University
Florence Campus, Florence Dance Studio, GE Florence Learning Center,
Florence University of the Arts, Georgetown University, GIA Gemological
Institute of America, Gonzaga University, Harding University In Florence,
Institute of Fine & Liberal Arts, Institute of Italian Studies – Drake University,
International School - Upper & Lower, Istituto Americano, Istituto Europeo,
Istituto Michelangelo, Istituto per l’arte e il restauro “Palazzo Spinelli”, ITC Isti-
tuto Tecnico “A. Volta”, Live Institute, James Madison University, Jennifer Wil-
liams - Scuola Biblica, Kent State University, Koiné Center, Scuola del Cuoio
– Leather School, Lorenzo de’ Medici, Italian Language Center “Machiavelli”,
F
New York University - Villa La Pietra, New York University- Villa Ulivi, Perseo
ive of Italy’s best engineer- Spogli, has stated that ‘the BEST
Scuola per l’Arte della Gioielleria, Polimoda, Richmond University, SACI Stu- ing and science students have Program is designed to encourage
dio Art Centers International, Sarah Lawrence College, Scuola Art.e, Interna- kicked off the first edition of entrepreneurship in Italy by allow-
tional School of Graphic Arts “Il Bisonte”, Leonardo da Vinci School, Scuola a novel work-study exchange pro- ing students, young managers and
Superiore per Mediatori Linguistici “Carlo Bo”, Scuola Toscana, SRISA Santa gram, called the Fulbright-BEST regional and municipal officials
Reparata International School of Art, Stanford University, Syracuse Univer- (Business Exchange and Student to learn first-hand how entrepre-
sity, The Florence Academy of Art, The International School of Florence, The Training) Silicon Valley Exchange neurship in the U.S. works.’ The
Learning Center of Tuscany, Tuscany Painting Studio Program, launched by the U.S. Fulbright BEST program is part
Embassy in Italy. The six-month of a larger initiative set up by the
Others pilot program will allow these stu- U.S. Embassy called ‘Partnership
dents to gain valuable knowledge for Growth’, aimed at enhancing
Agile Logica, Alma edizioni, British Consulate, Comune di Bagno a Ripoli, and experience in California’s own economic dynamism in Italy and
Dott. Nicola Paoleschi, Dr. Stephen Kerr, Florence for Fun, International Silicon Valley, where they will stimulating economic competition
Medical Service, Internet Service, Lory Copy Store, Nuovo Pignone, Odeon attend business classes at the Santa through new and innovative busi-
Theatre Cinehall, Regione Toscana Giunta Regionale, Regione Toscana URP, Clara University of California and ness ventures.
St. James Church, St. Marks English Church, The Wedding Planner in Tuscany, work as interns in one of Silicon For more information see
Unicef, United States of America Consulate, Walking Tours of Florence Valley’s fastest-growing companies. http://italy.usembassy.gov
U.S. Ambassador to Italy, Ronald
News 3
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Florence NEWS
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Close encounters Table of CONTENTS
for culture
quindicinale/every other week
redazione
Florence News 1- 5
via Santa Maria 32r - 50125 Firenze Silver River sings the blues
tel/fax +39 055 2306616
info@theflorentine.net
Fondazione Strozzi presents Big Brother gets bigger
www.theflorentine.net far-reaching calendar Memory train
remembers Holocaust
direttore responsabile Silvia Bini
T
editor in chief Nita Tucker he much-anticipated three-year tant springboard for Tuscany’s young
managing editor Linda Falcone event schedule prepared by the and up-and-coming contemporary National News 6
news editor Brenda Dionisi Fondazione Strozzi was pre- artists. Bradbourne also added that
cultural editor Jane Fortune sented last week, marking the debut Fort Belvedere ‘will probably host Media empire thwarted
events Marco Badiani of Florence’s newest cultural alli- modern and contemporary sculp- Promises in progress
ance. The Fondazione Strozzi unites ture exhibitions as of 2008’, though
this issue’s contributors
the city’s public and private sectors, things are still up in the air regard-
James Douglas, Sabine Eiche, Mary Ann
Pinto, Deirdre Pirro, Samuel Jay Keyser, becoming the leading authority on ing this possible venue, while Pala- Sport News 7
Richard Keenan, P.M. Louis and Ellen Wert cultural events in the city. It is a zzo Strozzi’s main floor will host the
bona fide cultural think tank alla classic ‘internationally recognized’
Time to draw the line
pubblicità/sales Giacomo Badiani fiorentina, aimed at promoting ‘cre- art exhibits, which will attract visi- Rossi pens new Yamaha deal
pubblicita@theflorentine.net ativity and innovation’ and thereby tors from around the globe.
classified & subscription Giovanni Giusti
ensuring the city’s centuries-long
dedication to maintaining its artis-
Fondazione Strozzi’s first event
is the much-anticipated Cézanne
Movies Reviews 8
annunci@theflorentine.net
tic and cultural heritage. The three- a Firenze exhibition, running from The Holiday
subscription@theflorentine.net
year schedule is an ambitious one, March 1st to July 29th, which will An Inconvenient Truth
graphic design Leo Cardini - agilelogica.it offering not only seven world-class showcase the private art collections
layout Cathy Gale art exhibits, but also a wide array of of Egisto Paolo Fabbri and Charles Stranger Than Fiction
web Antonio Lo Iacono - agilelogica.it concerts, seminars, encounters and Alexander Loeser alongside several Breaking and Entering
multimedia events to be held in a of Cézanne’s impressionist master-
printer La Marina, Calenzano (Fi) transformed Palazzo Strozzi. The
renovated palazzo will boast a bar,
pieces. Next up is an exhibit cel-
ebrating female fashions from the
EVENTS 9 - 13
editore B’Gruppo s.r.l. bookshop and restaurant in hopes of 1980s and 1990s, with pieces by What’s happening in Florence
via Valentini 10 - 59100 Prato
welcoming over hundreds of thou- Issey Miyake, Vivian Westwood and
sands of visitors at a time. Thierry Mugler on display, running
Registrazione Trib. di Prato n.4 del 12/09/06
The 2007–2009 program is, in from October 2007 to January 2008 Up Close & 14-15
part, dedicated to the contemporary and in collaboration with Pitti Dis- Personal
art and culture world, an area which covery. In 2008, three mega-events An Interview with
has recently become a battleground are in store, starting in spring with
for debate due to the general lack an exposition on ancient Chinese Antonina Bargellini
of interest by public officials in this art, Celeste Impero, after which it
specific realm of artistic expression. will travel to Rome. From July to Mosaics 16
Aside from the events scheduled, December, Palazzo Strozzi will host
which celebrate modern and con- Dipingere a luce which will show- The past in wax at ‘La Specola’
temporary art, general director of case circa 60 Impressionist master- Jane’s GEMS
the Fondazione, James Bradburne, pieces. Later in autumn, an event
announced that the 1,500-square-
metre Strozzina will become the offi-
called Donne al potere will be held
in celebration of two queens hail-
Italian Voices 17
cial home of contemporary art in the ing from the infamous Medici fam- ‘Mah’
city and will showcase photography, ily. The largest and most important
design and architecture and video
and digital art exhibitions celebrat-
event of 2009 will be an interactive
event dedicated to Galileo Gali-
Culture & Customs 18
ing the work of the world’s most lei, called Macrocosmo, beginning To whom we owe it all
highly acclaimed contemporary art- in spring. It will be followed in
ists, such as Bill Viola, James Turrell, autumn by exhibit which will jour-
Damien Hirst and Candida Hofer. ney through illusion and reality in Culture & Customs 19
The Strozzina will also be an impor- art, Dolci inganni. The night the bridges came
falling down
Travel & Leisure 20
Seeing in the rain
The Arts 21
Making connections
through theater
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Stark contrasts
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Classified 23
4 News
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
Florence NEWS
News in BRIEF
News in BRIEF Big Brother gets bigger COAST
‘Giovanni’ from the block
Want to be on a first name 20 additional anti-rape surveillance cameras around centre IS CLEAR
basis with the city of Florence?
■
Call out the name ‘Andrea’ and
Nine lives for two-wheelers Expert calms fears
The Florentine municipal police
3,201 men and boys will answer.
will be sending 96 abandoned
According to a recent city-wide
sexual aggressions and violence
toward women in 2006, as well as about Tuscany’s
name unreclaimed bikes to fithe
and search, ‘Andrea’ takes rst
underprivileged people of Okolo
place as the most common first
an increased number of robberies
and thefts in the centre. De Martino
disappearing coastline
name African Congo, asMunici-
in the throughout the part of asserted that the statistics revealing
a project called Una bici per il
pality of Florence. Marco slides a higher incidence of sexual assaults
Congo. Upon city councilor Gra-
into second place with more are essentially due to ‘an increased
than 3,000. Third placedonate
ziano Cioni’s motion to goes number of rape victims who are
these two-wheeled wonders to
to Alessandro at 2,700. And for now going to the police and report-
women? Africa’s most poverty-
one of Try Francesca—at least ing sex crimes’.
2,012 Florentine Florentine city
stricken areas, the girls go by Public Order officials have also
that name. There areonce 1,794
administration has also again cited that most victims of rape in the
donne who its dedication and
confirmed answer to ‘Laura’ past year tended to be younger for-
and 1,542 called ‘Silvia.’ to aid-
long-standing commitment eign women who have come to Flor-
ing the disadvantaged in Africa. ence on holiday or to study. More-
I
Tales from the nose n addition to the 96 surveil- over, alcohol consumption seems to
that grows
■ lance cameras in Florence, have played a considerable role in
A centuries-old giant oak fea-
Vandal slashes the city’s Safety Committee several sexual assaults reported in
Tournabuoni’s Collodi’s
tured in Carlo treasure The has announced that another 20 2006. Other crime statistics released
Last week, owners of the ail-
Adventures of Pinocchio is Flo- cameras will be installed through- by the Prefect have shown a general
ing, tree art gallery Tournabuoni
rentine experts said on Monday. out city streets in order to curb increase in the number of commer-
Arte, Roberto Casamonti are
Experts from all over Tuscany and the ever-increasing incidences of cial and residential thefts in the rest
Anna Ostellari, were astonished
being called to protect the 600- sexual assaults in the central core. of the province, more so than in the
to find one of their included on
year-old oak that ismost valuable This decision was taken in light of city. As well, drug-related crimes and
pieces on World at Bologna’s
UNESCO’sdisplay Heritage List. recent statistics revealing that the homicides seem to have dropped
Arte Fiera Collodi, who by an
It inspired slashed to bits wrote number of sexual assaults in the slightly, while crimes related to
A
unknown vandal. in which art,
a final episode The work of the city is up 10.9 percent from last prostitution and pornography have ccording to the University of
wooden Psico-foil by the 83-year-
entitled puppet was suspended year, and up 5.6 percent in the rest risen. Although the statistics show Florence’s leading physical
old the giant oak and left to
fromSicilian artist Carla Accardi, of the province. Several weeks ago, a general decrease in crime in the geography professor, Enzo Pran-
was valued originally wrote Pin-
die. Collodi at over 300 thousand Florence’s Prefect, Andrea De Mar- central core, De Martino asserts ‘the zini, there is no need to fret about
euro. in a serialised Ostellari
occhio Casamonti andform for a tino, released the city’s 2006 Pub- citizens of Florence feel less safe and Tuscan’s disappearing coastline
are baffled by the vandalous act,
weekly children’s magazine. The lic Safety Report, which reported their sense of safety has significantly due to erosion, which in the last
stating ‘we can’t believe why
grisly ending horrified the story’s a significant rise in the number of decreased in this past year’. 120 years has worn away hun-
someone would want to com-
young readers and the protests dreds of metres of beach, nor to
mit such the author there were
promptedan act when to resume the threat of rising sea levels.
other more valuable pieces left in
writing. Collodi penned a further
our kiosk, including a few pieces
19 episodes, wrapping up with
by Fontana and a Picasso’. The
a classic fairy-tale happy ending
Hard day’s night In the wake of the alarming data
and previsions that have contin-
ued to bombard the world regard-
police are currently investigating
in which the wooden Pinocchio
this peculiar act of vandalism.
finally becomes a real boy. Report exposes shaky employment stats ing the acute climate change in
course and the extent to which
the greenhouse effect has, and
■ will, negatively effect our environ-
Hop to the rescue ment, Pranzini contends that the
For over a month now, the World Tuscan Maremma is pretty much
Wildlife Fund of Florence has safe and sound, so to speak.
been fresh on the heels of frogs Although he denies a loom-
and their other long-legged fam- ing environmental catastrophe
ily members in an effort to rescue on the horizon, he does not disal-
them from being unknowingly flat- low the possibility that there will
tened by passing cars. The WWF probably be significant changes
has been recruiting several volun- to the already marshy land near
teers as part of an initiative called the coast. In fact, he admits that
Operazione Salvarospi which is the wettest areas, such as Lake
T
aimed at curbing the bloodshed he employment rate in Tus- salary in Tuscany in 2006 was just Massaciuccoli, as well as the wet
of frogs, toads and other amphib- cany rose in 2006 to almost around 1,000 euro net—yes, that is plains surrounding Pisa, San Ros-
ians living in and around the 65 percent, though statistics right—making it just over the pov- sore, Follonica and Castiglione,
WWF Focognano Oasis on the revealed that most workers were erty line. will eventually flood, becoming
outskirts of Florence. Director of at an increased risk of finding This sorry state of affairs reflects marshland.
the oasis, Carlo Scoccianti, has contract, or precarious employ- the dynamics of the new labour mar- Apparently, the Tuscan coast-
stated that amphibians in the area ment, thus following the general ket in Tuscany, making the number line gets a good bill of health,
are most at risk at this time of year trend in the rest of Italy toward an of stable, regular employment work because through human inter-
because they are waking from increased use of unstable employ- contracts a thing of the past. This vention it is still possible to save
hibernation and are in search of ment contracts offered by both the tendency follows the same shift evi- disappearing beaches, especially
wet and humid environments. As public and private sectors. In fact, denced in the national labour mar- if one looks at the areas surround-
a result, WWF volunteers will be the regional newspaper La Nazione ket, albeit the skies seem clearer ing Marina di Massa and Ronchi,
patrolling the high-risk streets sur- recently reported that as many as over the former Grand Duchy terri- where sand and rock barriers
rounding the Focognano Oasis, 500 people at Florence’s city hall tory than in the rest of the country. were installed about 300 metres
as well as high-humidity areas are contract, or precarious, work- More precisely, Istat reported a 4.7 from the coastline in 2000 by
in and around Florence, such as ers. The 2006 Istat report, released percent decrease in unemployment the Tuscan Region. Since then,
Osmannoro and Figline Valdarno. a few weeks ago, reveals that there from 2006, and on a happier note, the coastline in these areas has
Those interested in giving a help- is work to be found in the Tuscan the number of female employees in ceased to erode. As a result, in
ing hand can call 055477876. region, but the pay stub still leaves the Tuscan workforce are almost 2003 the Tuscan Region financed
much to be desired. In fact, the equal in number to their male coun- similar interventions throughout
report illustrated that an average terparts. the region.
News 5
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Florence NEWS
TIES THAT BIND
Most Tuscans say yes to
Memory train EMERGENCY
SUMMIT
common-law unions remembers Holocaust SAFEGUARDS
Tuscan students embark on a journey to Auschwitz COUNTRYSIDE
L
ast week, 500 Tus- as well as in the Rom
can high school language. Caffaz remem-
and university stu- bered the hundreds of
dents, alongside teach- Tuscans who, in the
ers and municipal offi- wrong place at the wrong
cials, travelled on the time, found themselves
Treno della Memoria to on a freight train head-
Auschwitz in order to ing towards their horrific
commemorate Europe’s demise, ‘about 700 inno-
Holocaust victims. In a cent Tuscans also shed
moving display of soli- their blood there during
darity, students partici- the Holocaust, including
pated in a memorial cele- the many civilians, poli-
bration in one of Auschwitz’s lagers, ticians, workers and youth that were
and were accompanied by regional captured and shipped to evil places
councilor, Ugo Caffaz, where they such as Ebensee, Mautahausen and
prayed and sang songs in Hebrew, Martheim’.
A s one of the most ancient
cruxes of liberalist thought
Top spot for
in Europe, not many can deny
the fact that Tuscany is perhaps
the most progressive of Italian
taxpayers
regions. Well, Tuscan citizens
have once again confirmed their
commitment to the socialist
cause in support of the very con-
T uscan residents, urban plan-
ners, government officials and
concerned citizens have been
troversial Pacs legislation, which, Siena, Pisa and Florence unyielding in their fight against the
if passed by parliament, will give
legal status to civil unions on the
are country’s costliest development of a large residential
project in Montichiello, located
national, regional and provincial in the characteristic Sienese Val
level. Recent debates have flared
behind closed parliamentary Y es friends, the rumors are true:
Tuscany is officially the most
costly region in Italy. Cgia of Mes-
yearly, or in Pisa where residents
must pay 1,180 euro each year to the
municipal administration.
d’Orchia.
An emergency summit, held in
doors as of late about whether or Siena on January 22nd involved
not to follow the general European tre, in the Veneto region, recently Florentine newspaper Il Firenze
regional, provincial and local
trend toward the legal recognition released a report which classifies Ita- reports that the highest fees in Flor-
authorities, who opted to tempo-
of common-law couples. ly’s most expensive cities on basis of ence are for Ici property and garbage
rarily block the construction of a
And all while, the majority of the amount of money taxpayers hand disposal taxes. In light of these find-
20-unit residential condominium
those Florentines in favour of the over to municipalities each year. The ings, city councilor Tea Albini, warns
in the heart of the Sienese Chianti,
cause are probably not aware report revealed that Florence takes that ‘this classification does not give
an area which has been declared
that, just over ten years ago, Pisa fifth spot in the list of Italy’s most a clear picture of the situation. Com-
the patrimony of all of humanity by
was the first city in Italy to officially expensive cities. More precisely, pared to other Italian cities, the vast
Unesco.
record the presence of common- each Florentine dishes out about array of services that the city offers
Authorities have enforced
law couples, registering over 40 1,150 euro a year in municipal tax in its citizens, stand apart in terms of
Article 45 of the Urban Planning
civil unions in the city and prov- exchange for the goods and services quality. Taxpayers do pay more in
Code, which allows for ‘an indi-
ince, including five gay couples. the city provides. If this seems a lot, Florence, but the living standards
rect safeguarding procedure’ in
Soon after, Florence, Scandicci, then consider living in Siena, where are higher than in other Italian
order to uphold the architectural,
Pistoia, Piombino and Empoli taxpayers shell out almost 1,500 euro urban centres’.
cultural and ecological integrity of
followed in Pisa’s footsteps by Tuscan cities and towns.
keeping official accounts of the As a result of such contro-
number of unwed couples in their versy, leftist federal minister,
jurisdictions. Without a national
law to address the issue, these
BETTER LIFE GONE BAD Francesco Rutelli, and president
of the Tuscan Region, Claudio
municipal efforts did not have
much success, with very few cou-
Foreigners reign in Florence’s Meucci Detention Centre Martini, met in Rome a few weeks
ago in order to draft an agreement
ples declaring their common-law between national and regional
status in city halls.
A lthough there are only 22 inmates in
Florence’s Meucci Juvenile Detention
Centre, located on Via degli Orti Oricel-
governments which would over-
see the establishment of a pro-
vincial ‘Urban Code’ specifically
lari, the vast majority of them are immi- intended to safeguard and ensure
VISIT OUR BLOG grants, mostly coming from Romania and
Morocco. These youth have come to Italy
the quality and distinctness of the
Tuscan countryside.
http://theflorentine. in search of a better life and a more prom-
ising future yet have sadly ended up on
blog.dada.net/ the wrong path. The inmates range from
14 to 21 years of age, and most are being
detained for crimes related to drugs, robbery or theft. In this correctional
institute for minors, detainees are required to attend morning educational
classes and afternoon artisan courses while serving their sentence, though �������������������
director of the centre, Aldo Nesticò, argues that Meucci ‘lacks the neces-
sary funds for things such as paper and pens, even toilet paper’. While such
classes are designed to help the youth gain the essential knowledge, skills
and experience needed upon release, the recidivism rate remains high. � � ������������ ����
6 News
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
National NEWS
PROMISES IN
■
News in BRIEF Media empire thwarted PROGRESS
New hope for Lou Gehrig Anti-monopoly bill angers Berlusconi Liberal reforms brought
victims
Italian researchers have increased
chances for treating Lou Gehrig’s
Gentiloni and has just begun its pas-
sage through parliament. Gentilo-
to parliament
disease, a fatal and incurable ni’s bill would force both Mediaset
nerve-wasting disease. A team and Rai to move one of their three
led by Sebastiano Cavallaro at a terrestial channels to digital within
National Research Council lab in 15 months of its approval, with the
Catania says it has found the 57 freed-up airwaves being sold to
genes responsible for the disease. competitors. It would introduce a
Cavallaro cautioned that a number 45 percent cap on any given broad-
O
pposition chief Silvio Berlus- caster’s share of the TV advertising
of genetic and environmental fac-
coni has accused the govern- market and reduce the amount of
tors are implicated in the disease,
A
ment of deliberately targeting advertising permitted per hour of fresh government drive to liber-
which affects over 350,000 of programming from 18 percent to 16
his media empire with a ‘criminal plan alise the Italian economy was
the world’s population and kills percent, with in-show advertising
of attack’ on his three-channel pri- hailed by consumer groups last
over 100,000 every year. But, he vate TV network Mediaset. ‘Mediaset included in the calculation.
said, the gene research, published week but also sparked protests,
will be forced to defend itself’, said the The Italian TV system is currently including one by fuel station opera-
in the international journal BMC billionaire media mogul, who threat- dominated by the three-channel tors, who called for a 14 days of
Genomics, ‘could pave the way ened to ‘lead five million people on to state broadcaster Rai and Media- ongoing strikes.
for early diagnosis and possible the streets’ in protest and use his TV set. Together they account for some The reforms approved by Pre-
treatment’. channels to mobilise public opinion 90 percent of audience share and mier Prodi’s cabinet will have imme-
against the reforms. Premier Romano almost 96 percent of money spent diate effect and include streamlining
■ Prodi, responded that ‘demonstra- on TV advertising, with 66.4 per- business start-up rules, liberalising
Fini in first place tions are a sign of active democracy cent going to Mediaset and 28.8 the opening hours of small busi-
Silvio Berlusconi caused a stir and should always be respected but percent to Rai. This situation has nesses, abolishing certain mobile
in his centre-right alliance last protests in aid of personal interests been criticised by the Constitutional phone and bank charges and allow-
week, apparently anointing right- are less than praiseworthy’. Court, the Antitrust Authority, the ing supermarket chains to sell pet-
ist leader Gianfranco Fini as The media bill was drawn up by Communications Authority and the rol and newspapers. The measures
his likely successor. Speaking Communications Minister Paolo European Commission. follow a first deregulation package,
to journalists, the 70-year-old approved in July, aimed at ending
former premier spoke about his anti-competitive practices in several
No show
hope of uniting the four key cen- post last February and cut off his pay protected fields. These measures
tre-right parties into a federation because of his ‘unjustifiable behav- affected lawyers, notaries, phar-
and possibly even a single party. iour’. The decision, which reignited macists, taxi drivers, banks and car
‘If we form a single party I think
that Fini’s candidacy is the most
prestigious and authoritative to
show-down debate on crucifixes in public build-
ings, came after Tosti was convicted
by a criminal court a month before.
insurers. Prodi said the new decree
would further the government’s
goal of boosting competition and
lead it’, he said. Fini is currently Judge is defendant in The court gave Tosti a seven-month
suspended sentence for refusing to
bringing down prices to the benefit
of the consumer.
leader of the rightist National
Alliance party, the second larg-
anti-crucifix case perform his duties in the Marche Other measures in the decree
town of Camerino. include the abolition of extra bank
est in the opposition. He has
stood by Berlusconi since the
former media tycoon entered
A n Italian judge who refuses to
have crosses in his court room
refused to appear at his hearing on
Crucifixes are customary rather
than mandatory in Italy’s public
buildings. Officially, Catholicism
charges on overdrafts; more advan-
tageous terms for mortgage hold-
ers; the elimination of some of the
Italian politics in 1994. Berlus- whether he had broken the law. Pros- is not Italy’s state religion and the red tape for people opening up
coni, defeated by centre-left ecutors are seeking to convict Judge separation of Church and State is set small businesses, particularly hair-
chief Romano Prodi in last April’s Luigi Tosti on six counts of walking down by the postwar Constitution dressers, barbers, beauticians and
general election, has hinted sev- out of court rooms when he saw cru- and mandated by a 1984 Concor- driving instructors; greater trans-
eral times that he is unlikely to cifixes hanging there. Tosti, who was dat that ended most of the Catholic parency in airfare advertising; a
run for premier next time if the suspended from his duties a year ago, Church’s privileges. In practice, with requirement for public services to
current legislature lasts the full did not show up in court. His law- Catholicism being such a part of accept payment using credit and
five years. yers said he intended ‘to keep up his Italy’s cultural identity, local bodies banking cards; and clearer expira-
protest against the presence of mono- decide whether they want crosses in tion dates on food products. The
■ religious symbols’. the courthouse. Similar arrangements decree will make it easier for motor-
Expecting in Egypt The Italian judiciary’s self-govern- are in place in other public build- ists to obtain car insurance or sell
Visitors to Milan can marvel at ing body, the Supreme Council of ings—most notably schools, where their vehicles and allows them to
the arts of ancient Egypt’s super- Magistrates, removed Tosti from his there have been a raft of polemics. use personalised number plates. It
women in a show which opened also provides tax-break incentives
there last week. The exhibition, for individuals, businesses and
which features 50 previously non-profit organisations who give
unseen artifacts from Turin’s MILLIONS FOR MIDDLE EAST money to job-training institutes, and
it forces the post office to compen-
famed Egyptology Museum,
shows why ancient Egypt’s Italy champions Lebanese peace-keeping operations sate customers if post is delivered
women were far ahead of their late or goes missing.
contemporaries. On show for
the first time are papyri showing
I taly reconfirmed a promise of 120 million euro in aid last week as donor
countries met in Paris to help Lebanon recover from last year’s war
between Israel and Hezbollah guerrillas. Italian Foreign Minister Massimo
Although the decree has already
come into effect, it must now be
advanced gynecological knowl- approved by parliament to prevent
D’Alema, defining the donors’ conference a political and economic ‘boost’ it lapsing. Consumer groups said
edge and advice on all aspects for Beirut, said Italy would also offer to renegotiate commercial debt repay- they hoped it would not be watered
of childbearing—including some ments. French President Jacques Chirac, presiding over the work of the down during the parliamentary
of the world’s first pregnancy Paris conference, publicly thanked Italy for its fresh display of ‘generosity’, process as protests gather pace.
tests. Nefer-Woman in Ancient noting that Rome had already sustained heavy expenses for Lebanon. ‘Bersani must hold out against the
Egypt, organised by the DNArt Italy is currently the biggest contributor of troops to UN peacekeeping lobby groups and corporations and
Foundation in collaboration with operations in Lebanon, supplying 2,500 of the 11,500 soldiers in the UNI- parliament must approve the decree
Palazzo Reale, runs until April 9. FIL force. The force will come under Italian command on February 17. as it is, without too many revisions’,
representatives said.
Sports 7
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Sports & Leisure NEWS
Time to draw the line Dangerous
Games
Italian football halted due to tragic death By Roseanne Wells
a Livorno supporter before a game In response to the disastrous
in Florence; Atalanta fans battled and disheartening football match
with police guarding coaches car- in Catania on February 2, Clau-
rying visiting Catania supporters; dio Lotito, President of Lazio,
and a match in the fourth division remarked that security was the
Serie D was suspended after a lines- major weakness during games.
man was hit by a drum thrown from The night match between Catania
the crowd. Raciti’s death could be a and Palermo sparked debate over
turning point in Italy. who is responsible for insuring
In Italy, the majority of stadiums safety measures. Since most sta-
are owned by city councils, who diums are currently owned by the
rent them out to football clubs. city then rented out, police, not a
As a result, clubs are unwilling to private security force, are respon-
invest large sums of money improv- sible for keeping exuberant fans in
ing security. Italian clubs are not check for little overtime compen-
directly responsible for maintain- sation. Lotito’s informal proposal,
ing order inside the stadiums. The broadcast during the Italian TV
police, who are paid a small over- program ‘Controcampo’, notes
Violent incidents during the Catania-Palermo match time rate to work at matches, con- that ‘the clubs should own their
centrate on keeping rival fans apart stadiums in order to cater better
F
ootball in Italy has been put reporters, ‘There shouldn’t be foot- rather than nipping violent behav- for the security system’.
on hold indefinitely following ball in Catania anymore. A man died iour in the bud. Then there is the In addition to selling the stadi-
the death of a police officer and it’s meaningless to talk about problem of Italy’s hard-core ‘ultra’ ums to the individual squads, the
during last week’s Sicilian derby football. This sport no longer suits fans, which has turned the most city would no longer be responsi-
between Catania and Palermo. The me’. volatile areas of stadiums into no- ble for the activities at the games.
38-year-old officer suffered fatal Ironically, the game between go zones for the police. This would place the financial
wounds as he attempted to break up Catania and Palermo began with In the face of these issues, the burden on the teams for the lack
fighting between rival fans outside a minute’s silence in memory of decision of Italian Football Federa- of updated security to control the
the grounds. Ermanno Licursi, the club offi- tion chief Luca Pancalli to suspend huge numbers of rowdy spectators.
Italian Football Federation com- cial who died after being attacked all matches indefinitely inspires But when fans sneak weapons,
missioner Luca Pancalli has called while trying to break up a fight at an hope—signalling that the country’s flares, firecrackers, and bombs
a halt to all football in the country amateur league match in the south- governing body is possibly ready into stadiums, can football still be
for the foreseeable future. ‘Enough ern town of Luzzi. The nationwide to take a hard line to sort out the considered game? Lotito remarks
is enough’, says Pancalli. ‘This is no soul-searching that followed that problem. Now it is up to the club that the security ‘must also serve
longer a sport. All football tourna- incident, however, seemed to have presidents to take action ensuring it as a filter to diminish the access of
ments will be suspended until we made no difference at all when Pal- doesn’t happen again. the thugs to the stadium zone’, but
solve the problem of violence during ermo took the lead and Catania the violence is not limited to the
matches. It’s unacceptable for such fans started to hurl flares. Tear gas fans without tickets; the seating
incidents to happen in a country and a half-hour suspension failed for ‘ultra’ fans is unapproachable
like Italy. At this moment, I’m not to stop the trouble, which climaxed by the current police force. Even
thinking about the bid, but should when a home-made bomb exploded with a full-time security team,
we lose our 2012 bid for the Euro- in officer Filippo Raciti’s face. will football matches become any
pean championships because of this Violence has reached epidemic safer? Let’s hope that something
situation, we’d only be getting what proportions in stadiums throughout changes, so the fans actually have
we deserve’. the country, from the professional a game to go to.
In response to the police officer’s league down to amateur level.
tragic death, Catania president Anto- Brawls, flares, fire-crackers and
nio Pulvirenti has vowed to quit the explosives abound. During the last
club as quickly as possible. He told few weeks, Fiorentina fans stabbed
News in BRIEF
Funeral of the assasinated officer
■
Motor GP Manning guides
Colts to victory
ROSSI PENS NEW YAMAHA DEAL Indianapolis beat Chicago 29-
17 to win Super Bowl XLI in rain-
hit Miami. The Colts conceded
V alentino Rossi has confirmed
that he will stay with Yamaha
until the end of the 2008 Moto GP
can just concentrate on racing this
season’, said Rossi.
Despite missing out on last
a touchdown from the opening
kick-off, but overcame a 14-6
first-quarter deficit to triumph
season. The 27-year-old Italian has year’s world title due to a mixture of against the Bears at Dolphin
been thinking of a possible switch mechanical failures and a crash at Stadium.
to four-wheeled motor sport at the the season finale in Valencia, Rossi
end of his current deal. Prior to the believes that Yamaha’s overall per- ■
team’s Sepang test in Malaysia, the formances were key in convincing Abu Dhabi gets Grand Prix
five-time world champion said that him to stay. ‘The past three years Formula One Management
re-signing with the Japanese manu- with Yamaha have been very positive has recently announced that
facturer was the ideal situation for and this is why I am pleased to stay. I
Abu Dhabi, the capital city of
him. ‘I’m very happy to have renewed have great faith in the team and I am
the United Arab Emirates, has
my contract with Yamaha until the very excited about my future and the
future of the 800cc bike’. secured the rights to host a For-
end of 2008. It means that now, I
mula One Grand Prix in 2009.
8
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
Movie REVIEWS
Movies in English showing in Florence
by James Douglas Weeks 8 February - 22 February 2007
Thursday February 8 Tuesday February 13 Monday February 19 Wednesday February 21
ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE BRITISH INSTITUTE
DREAMGIRLS AN INCONVENIENT TRUTH STRANGER THAN FICTION Femmes Fatales
BODY HEAT
Bill Condon’s adaptation of the 1981 ‘You owe it to yourself to see this film.
Broadway show Dreamgirls is a big- If you do not, and you have grand- Sizzling neo-noir thriller with Kathleen
production musical given the lavish, children, you should explain to them Turner as the femme fatale treading in
big-screen treatment that visually at why you decided not to’. So says the footsteps of many predecessors as
least may make up for its alleged short- eminent film reviewer Roger Ebert in she lures her lover into a plot to kill her
falls in the musical department. Sup- a dramatic departure from his mea- husband. With more than a hint of the
posed to be, but not confirmed to be, sured, impartial style. And he under- classic Double Indemnity, Lawrence
the story of the rise to mainstream suc- lines the impending catastrophe now Kasdan’s Body Heat (1981) holds its
cess of The Supremes and manager more than ever in the news that global own as ‘great trash’—taut, convincing,
Berry Gordy Jr.’s Motown Records in warming represents. Al Gore’s envi- sexy, suspenseful and darkly satisfying.
the 1960s, the movie chronicles the ronmental campaign laid out the facts
on- and off-stage lives of the trio. Jen- and let the audience draw the obvious
nifer Hudson’s showstopper ‘And I Am conclusion. Davis Guggenheim’s film
Telling You I Am Not Going’ has had of this campaign, An Inconvenient
the critics scurrying for superlatives. Truth, serves to reinforce the point. At last, a movie with a mind! Marc
An alarming and essential documen- Forster’s intriguing Stranger than
tary that reminds us of what it is to be Fiction is the story of Harold Crick
human. A global warning. (Will Ferrell) who hears the narrative
Monday February 12 of his life from a mysterious voice in
his head. This intelligent and funny
ODEON THEATRE examination of the intertwining of fic-
Wednesday February 14 tion and reality has a particularly fine
THE HOLIDAY performance from Emma Thompson
as the novelist whose fiction becomes
BRITISH INSTITUTE Crick’s reality. It may be the familiar ter-
ritory of interfaces opened up by the Thursday February 22
Femmes Fatales likes of Woody Allen and more recently
BAD TIMING Charlie Kaufman (Adaptation) but For-
ster’s movie is consistently inventive,
ODEON THEATRE
Nicolas Roeg’s 1980 neo-noir Bad thought-provoking and entertaining.
Timing has memorable perfor- BREAKING AND ENTERING
mances from his wife Theresa Rus-
sell as Milena Flaherty, troubled Tuesday February 20
femme fatale, and Art Garfunkel
as her hapless victim. Fragmented ODEON THEATRE
time lines, Viennese location, edgy
soundtrack and an array of unpleas-
ant characters, even a strangely BOBBY
subdued Harvey Keitel as the police Emilio Estevez’s
inspector, make this a challenging Bobby is the story
and disturbing exercise in obsession of the assassina-
and despair. The distributors tried to tion of Senator
pull the plug on it at release, calling it Robert Kennedy
‘sick’, ‘depraved’, etc. at the Ambas- Anthony Minghella’s Breaking and
sador Hotel, Los Entering takes the urban transition
Grisly romantic comedy from the Angeles in 1968. zone of London’s King’s Cross redevel-
queen of the chick flick, Nancy Meyers’ Ladling 60s ideal- opment area for its locale. And it is in
The Holiday is an overstuffed turkey Thursday February 15 ism and liberal politics into his script this everyman’s land of contemporary
of a movie that bizarrely gets its Italian and direction, Estevez takes the inter- London that the parallel and intersect-
release way off season. However, even ODEON THEATRE linked stories of 22 hotel staff and ing lives of a representative cross-sec-
the most generous Christmas cheer guests who witnessed the event and tion of London life play out their sto-
would barely rescue this hopelessly STEP UP in the Altman-like ensemble mosaic ries: Jude Law as Will, the high-flying
miscast (Jack Black as romantic hero!), pieces together the spirit of the age. architect; Miro, the Bosnian refugee
woefully misconceived transatlantic Clichéd crowd-pleasing dance movie With an extraordinarily high-powered and athletic cat burglar; Amira (Juliette
tryst tripe. Despite superior British for hip hop tweenies who didn’t get cast and a passionate appeal for peace Binoche), his mother; Oana, the Rus-
cast (Winslet, Law, Sewell) and given West Side Story, Footloose or Fame. and justice, the movie impacts mov- sian prostitute; and more. The charac-
the limitations of the incompetent Diaz, For them Step Up may be a step up. ingly in our time, and the presence of ters learn to live together and say ‘I’m
Meyers’ dull script and the movie’s idi- For others an unusually chaste and Kennedy himself in authentic newsreel sorry’ when circumstances demand
otic premise, the director’s talents are unchallenging urban fairy tale. footage rather than in the performance apology as the only way forward.
wasted on mindless frivolity so lame it of an actor adds resonance to the trag-
can barely move. For sad singles only. edy of lost promise.
What’s on & Where to Go 9
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
The Florentine cannot be responsible for changes in program details.
Events in FLORENCE FEB 9 TO FEB 22
mbership card necessary
n GUIDED TOURS
OUR TOP PICKS FRIDAY 9
Antica Farmacia di S.Maria Novella
t tt n DANCE
da Tango a Sirtaki
Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 15.00, info and
booking 335-5312904
VINOLIO 2007 – Food and wine trade expo – February 9–11 A tribute to Zorba, with Raffaele Paganini n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
Fortezza da Basso Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it, Vinolio
With Vinolio in its first year, the expo hopes to become an important national and international See Feb 9
20.45
reference point for the wine, olive oil and gastronomic sectors. More than 4,000 businesses and
accredited buyers will gather within the 50,000 square meters of the Fortress. The Florence trade n MARKETS & FESTIVALS n MUSIC & CONCERTS
expo will showcase the world’s most recent technological inventions, and support the biodiversity Vinolio Bonsoir Joli Monsieur
typical of agricultural traditions in Italian production. Not just a trade fair for buying and selling, Wine and oil, agricultural and food fair Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione Le Vie
Vinolio is a worldwide cultural event which uses the city of Florence as its stage. Fortezza da Basso tel. 05549721 - Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel. 055.683388,
055496404 - www.firenze-expo.it, 9-20 www.pinocchiojazz.it, 22.00
Carmen Consoli
AREZZO WAVE BAND 2007– February 16, Prato n MUSIC & CONCERTS Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), via-
On February 16, the Arezzo Wave Foundation will present the winners of the live regional contest Alter*nite le Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
Arezzo Wave Band 2007. This event aims to discover innovative musical talents that will perform rock, techno, goth, drum & bass mandelaforum.it, 21.00, € 21-35
in the Italia Wave event scheduled for July 2007. Regional contests began in January and will Ippodromo Le mulina, 22.00 Circuito 4 piste
continue until the middle of March. Each region will be able to present one winning band for the Jeffrey Tate Reggae-roots, rock-cartoons, goa-trance,
July ‘play-off’ finals. For more information call 0574-1836753 or visit www.arrezzowave.com. Pelle Carlberg house
Sintetika, Via Luigi Alamanni 4, info 333- Ippodromo Le mulina, 22.00
PRESIDENT’S DAY COMMEMORATION – February 19, 5:30pm 3591575, www.sintetikalive.it, 22.00, mem- Marc Andrè Hamelin, piano
Salone Brunelleschi, Palagio di Parte Guelfa bership only Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
Six Dixiers tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it,
The monument dedicated to George Washington, located in Parco delle Cascine’s Piazzale Ken- 16.00
nedy, has received a much needed make-over. The restoration project, sponsored by the Tuscan Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
055.2479700, 22.15, € 7 Nobody’s Perfect: Pikaya Live + Alex
American Association, will be presented on February 19 at Palagio di Parte Guelfa in com- Neri
memoration of President’s Day and Washington’s 275th birthday celebration. Event speakers St. Thomas the Apostle Church Choir
(United States) Tenax, via Pratese 46, tel. 055.308160,
include International Relations Councilor Eugenio Giani, U.S. Consul General, Nora Dempsey 22.30
A. Vivaldi, W. A. Mozart, G. F. Händel mu-
and architect Claudio Cestelli. The Tuscan-American Association is an independent non-profit sic Norge - Led Zeppelin Tribute Night
organization founded in 1996. Its mission is ‘to deepen and broaden ties and promote cultural Chiesa di San Marco, via Maggio 18, www. Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b
and economic exchange between the United States and Tuscany’. For more information visit: amicimusicasacra.com,18.00 tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30
segreteria@toscana-usa.org. Tony Levin & California Guitar trio Sound power funk
Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
STING IN CONCERT –February 21, Teatro Verdi tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
Sting, accompanied by renowned lute-player, Edin Karamazov, has announced a much-awaited
European tour to promote his latest album, ‘Songs from the Labyrinth’. A personal tribute to Eli-
n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Tricobalto
rock, psychedelic and funk music
zabethan composer John Dowland (1563–1626), the album has achieved enormous success wor- Laboratorio Zelig Sintetika, Via Luigi Alamanni 4, info 333-
Teatro 13, Via Nicolodi 2, 21.15, €10/7 3591575, www.sintetikalive.it, 22.00, mem-
ld-wide both from the critics and the general public, debuting at the top of the world’s charts.
Paolo Rossi in “Chiamatemi Kowalski bership only
SNEAK PREVIEW – Chianti Classico 2006 – February 21, Florence
- Evolution”
Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel. n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)
Join the 100-plus producers of Chianti classico at the Chianti Classico wine-tasting. Participants 055.6504112, www.saschall.it, 21.00 I barroccini di via dell’Ariento
Pep Bou: il mago delle bolle di sapo- see ongoing
can enjoy a sneak preview of 2005–2006 wines as well as those on the 2004 reserve list. Oil-
lovers can also enjoy samples of DOP oils from the 2006 harvest. For information and booking ne I’ figliolo di prete
call: 055/8228523 Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele II in vernacular, see ongoing
303, tel. 055.4220361, www.toscanatea- La macellara
tro.it, 21.00 see ongoing
PEP BOU: the soap bubble magician – February 8-10
Teatro Rifredi –Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 303 Serata gasp! Pep Bou: il mago delle bolle di sapo-
cabaret, theatre and music ne
Pep Bou’s shows are based on the creation of soap bubbles. Each bubble takes on a life of its Scantinato - la casa del teatro, Via San Do- see Feb 8
own, becoming an actor of sorts as it floats over the stage. Pep Bou’s style of theatre alludes to the menico 51, info 055-573857, 21.15
Serata gasp!
transparent nature of the bubbles and the characters who blow and pop them. The inhabitants of Trappola per topi see Feb 9
his imaginary world illustrate the fragile nature of the human condition. His third time at Teatro Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel. THEATRE
di Rifredi, Pep Bou has always worked magic on enthralled audiences. 055.572831, www.caspi.it/teatri/defaul-
tLaudi.htm, 21.00, Sun 17.00 Trappola per topi
see Feb 9
WALKER EVANS EXHIBIT – Until March 11
Museo Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia (MNAF
SATURDAY 10 SUNDAY 11
Piazza S.M.Novella 14/a rosso - Leopoldine
Photography lovers can line up at the Alinari National Museum of Photography, an offshoot of n DANCE n GUIDED TOURS
the historic Alinari Brothers’ company, to view the interesting retrospective by Walker Evans. Un- Au cafè
til March 11, the American photographer known for his visual documentation of rural America Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel. I crinali del Chianti: da Gaville alla Ba-
during the Great Depression will be on display for all eyes to enjoy. For more information call: 055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it, diaccia a Montemuro
20.45, on Sun 16.45 trekking, starting point Bagno A ripoli,
05523951 or visit: www.alinarifondazione.it 6.00
10 What’s on & Where to Go
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
Events in FLORENCE FEB 9 TO FEB 22
Gruppo Trekking di Bagno a Ripoli, www.
trekkingbagnoaripoli.it, info 335.8483345
see ongoing Fortezza Antiquaria - antique market
Piazza Indipendenza, info 055.3283550 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)
Lina Sastri in “Corpo Celeste” Cochi e Renato in “Nuotando con le la-
or 055.633058 see ongoing n MUSIC & CONCERTS crime agli occhi”
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS All For Col Musical comedy
Santo Spirito Fair WEDNESDAY 14 Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione Le Vie Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
Piazza S.Spirito, info 055.27051, all day Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel. 055.683388,
20.45
Vinolio n LECTURES & CONFERENCES www.pinocchiojazz.it, 22.00
See Feb 9 Love, love, love: readings and music Circuito 4 piste
n MUSIC & CONCERTS for St Valentine’s day see Feb 10 TUESDAY 20
This programme will bring together readin- European Electronic Techno Festival
Carmen Consoli
see Feb 10
gs and music for St Valentine’s day Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel. n CINEMA
The British Institute of Florence, Library and 055.4455280, www.firenze-expo.it, from Bobby
Endless Medley Cultural Centre Lungarno Guicciardini 9, 22.30, all night (in English)
aperitivo and music 7€ info 055.26778270, 18.00, admission free Giardini di Mirò Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel.
Decamerone, viale Lavagnini 40r, 19.00
Il principio dell’errore
n MUSIC & CONCERTS Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b
tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30
055.214068, www.cinehall.it,
15.30 – 17.50 – 20.10 – 22.30
Shows
acoustic Italian rock Festa di San Valentino
Circolo Arci Faliero Pucci, via G. D’Annun- Candlelight dinner, reservations only. The elegant gypsy quartet
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
n GUIDED TOURS
zio 182, Mensola, 22.00 Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel. Behind closed doors of the famous
055.2479700, 22.15, € 30 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
Jeffrey Tate Teatro Comunale
Gli infradito Vadim Repin & Nikolai Lugansky Corso Italia 12, info and booking 055-
see feb 9 violin and piano
Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16, tel. Tex-Mex and lounge blues 461428, 9.30
Rex Café, via Fiesolana, 25, 22.00, free Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
055.213535, www.maggiofiorentino.com,
20.30, Sun 16.30
tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it, n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
16.00 Mercato delle Cascine
L’incanto del corno THURSDAY 15 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) see Feb 13
horn and piano
Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careg- n CINEMA La cena dei cretini n MUSIC & CONCERTS
gi, viale Morgagni, www.agimusfirenze.it, see Feb 16 Carnevale 2007, Gem Boy
10.30, free Step up
(in English) Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b
Nicola Benedetti & Alison Rhynd
violin and piano
Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel.
055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 16.00
SUNDAY 18 tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30, 8€
Concerto di Carnevale
Saloncino del Teatro della Pergola, via della
Pergola, 18, tel. 055.22641, www.pergola.
– 18.10 – 20.20 – 22.30 n GUIDED TOURS Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
firenze.it, 21.00 n GUIDED TOURS Il Museo Nazionale Alinari della Foto-
055.212320,
21.00
www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
Quartetto di Fiesole & Giovanni Ric- The private passage of the Grand Du- grafia
chess into SS. Annunziata Piazza santa Maria Novella, 15.30, info and Grande festa di carnevale
cucci Prize awarded to most orignal mask
Auditorium Sinopoli, Villa La Torraccia, via Piazza SS Annunziata, info and booking booking 335-5312904
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
delle Fontanelle 24, Fiesole, 11.00 055-461428, 10.00 n MARKETS & FESTIVALS 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES n MARKETS & FESTIVALS 5th edition “Carnevale Fiorentino nel Mia Cooper & Papa’s Gang
Fiorentina vs Udinese Flower market Mondo” Arena Il Girone, Località Il Girone, Fiesole,
National Championship Soccer serie A Via Pellicceria, 8-13 multi-ethnic carnival 21.30
Historical city center, info 055.2768030,
Stadio Comunale Artemio Franchi, 20.30
n MUSIC & CONCERTS from 14.00 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)
n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Daniel Medeiros & Lanzoni-Spitilli-Ne- Commemorazione dell’Elettrice Pala- Gioie. Frammenti di vita di Anna Maria
Le cognate gri Trio tina Luisa de’ Medici, Elettrice Palatina
Teatro Augusto Novelli c/o Circolo La Rina- a mix of Brasilian music and jazz corteo storico see ongoing
scente, via Ponte a Jozzi 1, località Cascine Rex Café, via Fiesolana, 25, 22.00, free from piazzetta di Parte Guelfa to piazza Si- Giorgio Albertazzi in “Memorie di
del Riccio, 16.15 Marcello Colasurdo e Paranza gnoria, from 10.00 on Adriano”
Trappola per topi Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b Fierucolina Market see ongoing
see Feb 9 tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30 Piazza Santo Spirito, all day
Sunrise jazz orchestra
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
Fortezza Antiquaria - antique market
see Feb 17
WEDNESDAY 21
MONDAY 12 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
n MUSIC & CONCERTS n DANCE
n CINEMA n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Bianchini, Geroni & Laraia A tribute to Milloss: Estri
The Holiday In alto mare aperitivo and music 7€ Feb 21-March 3 (Feb 23, 26 and March 2
(in English) Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Pisana 111r, tel. Decamerone, viale Lavagnini 40r, 19.00 excluded), Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria
Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. 055.573857, www.elsinor.it, 21.00, €5/7 15, tel. 055.2335518, 20.30, Sun 15.30
Il flauto all’Opera
055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 16.00
– 19.00 – 22.00
Quella del piano di sopra flute and piano n LECTURES & CONFERENCES
see ongoing Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careg- Siân Ede: Art and science: how con-
Quix. Un Don Quixote contemporaneo gi, viale Morgagni, www.agimusfirenze.it, temporary art is reflecting the obses-
10.30, free
TUESDAY 13 see ongoing sion with science
Stefan Anton Reck Siân Ede is Arts Director of the United Kin-
n CINEMA FRIDAY 16
see Feb 16 gdom branch of the Calouste Gulbenkian
Trio Altenberg Foundation, and author of Art and Scien-
An Inconvenient Truth ce.
Saloncino del Teatro della Pergola, via della
(in English)
Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel.
n MUSIC & CONCERTS Pergola, 18, tel. 055.22641, www.pergola. The British Institute of Florence, Library and
Alter*nite firenze.it, 21.00 cultural center, Lungarno Guicciardini 9,
055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 16.00 info 055.26778270, 18.00, admission free
see Feb 9
– 18.10 – 20.20 – 22.30
Festa di azione gay & lesbica
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
n GUIDED TOURS Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b Everlast Mabo Firenze - Hatria Basket
Atri Anteprima Vini Chianti Classico Gallo
The stained class windows of St. Ja- tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30 Nero 2006
mes Church basketball
Jazz & Friends Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), via- Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli 5,
Via Rucellai 9, info and booking 055- Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel. tel. 055.212622, www.stazione-leopolda.it,
461428, 15.30 le Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
055.2479700, 22.15, € 7 mandelaforum.it, 18.00 14-20
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Stefan Anton Reck Everlast Mabo Firenze - Hatria Basket n MUSIC & CONCERTS
Mercato delle Cascine Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16, tel. Atri
055.213535, www.maggiofiorentino.com, Martino Fantasma (alive folk)
Clothing, leather, fruit, shoes, flowers, hou- basketball Rex Café, via Fiesolana, 25, 22.00, free
sehold appliances 20.30, Sun 16.30 Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), via-
Parco delle Cascine, 8-13 Three In One Gentlemen Suit le Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www. Masuk Chamber Choir (United States)
Sintetika, Via Luigi Alamanni 4, info 333- mandelaforum.it, at 18.00 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del Cor-
n MUSIC & CONCERTS 3591575, www.sintetikalive.it, 22.00, mem- so, tel. 055.289367, 19.00
Jam session + House band bership only n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Sting
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel. La cena dei cretini Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
055.2479700, 22.15, € 7 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) see Feb 16 055.212320, www.teatroverdifirenze.it,
Jazz Engine In alto mare 20.45, 35-75€
Arena Il Girone, Località Il Girone, Fiesole, see Feb 15
21.30 La cena dei cretini
MONDAY 19 That’s all jazz
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
Teatro Everest, via Volterrana 4 c/d , tel. 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
Live music with Flamenco by Luis Car-
055.2321754, www.teatroeverest.it, 21.00 n CINEMA
dillano
O’ Munaciello, Via Maffia 31r, 21,00 Stranger than fiction n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)
(in English) Miserabili. Io e Margaret Thatcher
n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) SATURDAY 17 Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
Il Vangelo secondo Gesù Cristo 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 3.30 055.6504112, www.saschall.it, 21.00
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS – 5.50 – 8.10 – 10.30
What’s on & Where to Go 11
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Events in FLORENCE FEB 9 TO FEB 22
THURSDAY 22
Toxic “Respect or Die”
New Paintings
free, La Corte Arte Contemporanea, via de’
Coverelli 27r, tel. 055.284435, www.lacor- n NIGHTLIFE
Until Feb 16, 15-19, Sergio Tossi Arte Con- tearte.it Ambasciata di Marte
n CINEMA temporanea, Via Pindemonte 63, info 055 Opere 1950-2006 by Vasco Bendini See web for Music program and concerts
All year, Ambasciata di Marte, Via Mannel-
Breaking and Entering 2286163 Until March 31, 10-13, 14.30-19.30, Frittel-
Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici, Elettrice li Arte Contemporanea, via Val di Marina 15, li 2 , Campo di Marte, info 055-6550786,
(in English) www.ambasciatadimarte.org, member only,
Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. Palatina info 055.410153
Until April 15, Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palati- h 22.00
055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 15X15. 15 galleries and 15 artists
15.30 – 17.50 – 20.10 – 22.30 na, info 055.2388614, www.polomuseale. Contemporary art exhibit Caruso Jazz Cafè
firenze.it Jazz nights
n GUIDED TOURS Egyptian Motifs in the ‘English’ Ceme-
From Feb 15 to April 16, 9.30.18.30, free,
Forte di Belvedere, info 055.2645356 Via Lambertesca 14/16r, info 055 281940,
Fondazione Giorgio La Pira tery. Hope of Life after Death www.carusojazzcafe.com
Via La Pira, info and booking 055-461428, Carnevale con gli artisti
Until May 27, Mon 14-19; Tue and Thu Works of painting and sculpture from va- Champagneria
15.00 8.30-19; Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun 8.30-14, Pizza, disco,pub, pop and rock music
rious Italian regions and abroad
Archaeological Museum, Via della Colonna Via Villamagna 71, Candeli (Bagno a Ripoli,
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS 36, www.beniculturali.it, info 055-23575
From Feb 20 to March 20, Caffè Decò,
Firenze) info 055 632815, www.champa-
Piazza della Libertà, info 335-7010657
Flower market Free entrance to the city museums for gneria.it, music on Fri and Sat, free entran-
see Feb 15 Desiderio da Settignano. La scoperta ce
residents della grazia nella scultura del Rinasci-
n MUSIC & CONCERTS In the afternoon on the last Saturday of the
month, Musei Comunali info 055.2768224
mento Golden View
Restaurant with music, every Sun, Mon and
“O la bossa o la vita!” From Feb 22 to June 3, Museo Naziona-
Fashion and style. Interpretations of le del Bargello, via del Proconsolo 4, tel. Wed live jazz music
Bossa Nova and Brasilian music Via dei bardi 58r, info 055 214502
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel. fashion in history 055.294883, www.polomuseale.firenze.it
055.2479700, 22.15, € 7 Hidden wealth. An artistic collection of the Jazz Club
Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova n GUIDED TOURS jazz nights
Crowpath Until June 2008, 8.45-13.50, Palazzo Pitti, Planetarium: meetings with the public Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, info
Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel. Galleria del Costume, info 055.2388713 2006, from January to May and from Octo- 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7
055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte. ber to December ( on Thursdays and on
org., 23.00, free Young Stylists for Calcutta Maracanà
A selection of clothing from the pieces re- Sundays), Planetario, via G. Giusti 29, info Disco-risto-show
Slow Train Soul (Z Star & Pudddu Va- ceived in donation for vintage charity auc- 0552343723 www.fstfirenze.it Via Faenza, 4 - Firenze Info-line:
rano UK) tion Artisans of the Oltrarno, in search of 055.210298, www.maracana.it
Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b Until Feb 28, Palazzo Pitti, Palazzina della artistic craftsmanship
tel. 055.487145, www.flog.it, 21.30, 8€ Pinocchio Jazz Club
Meridiana, piazza Pitti 1, tel. 055.294883 Genuine Florentine artisan traditions jazz nights
Tell Mama Walker Evans Info 055.3036108, www.firenze-oltrarno. Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione Le Vie
Janis Joplin tribute American PhotoJournalist net, all year Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel. 055.683388,
Rex Café, via Fiesolana, 25, 22.00, free Until March 11, MNAF - Museo Nazionale Guided visits by Associazione Akropo- www.pinocchiojazz.it, 22.00
n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Alinari della Fotografia, Piazza S.M.Novella
14/a r, tel. 055.23951, www.alinarifonda-
lis
January 11, 16, 20, 23, 25, 27, 30, tel.
Tenax
Alessandro Preziosi in “Datemi tre ca- Disco
zione.it 055461428 - http://It.geocities.com/asso- Tenax, via Pratese 46, tel. 055.308160
ravelle!” ciazione_akropolis
see ongoing Un ponte sul Mediterraneo. Leonardo reggae-roots + rock-cartoons + goa-
Pisano, the science of Arabia and the Hortibus Collection & Garden tours trance + house
birth of Western mathematics Starting point: piazza S.Trinita, every Thur Le Mulina Race Course (trot racing) V..le del
ON GOING Until March 10, Locali del Museo di Sto- and Sat at 15.00, info 348.9100783, www. Pegaso, price: € 5,00, info 335-6070924
ria Naturale, Borgo degli Albizi 28, tel. hortibus.com, € 25, all year
n EXHIBITS 055.7879594, www.archimede.ms Itinerari e Incontri n PARKS
Sasha Sosno & Vladimir Kara “Presen- Lo specchio della memoria Guided visits, book presentations, and con- Boboli Garden
za - Assenza” Photo exhibition of polaroids by Andrei ferences Piazza Pitti, from nov to February h 8,15 to
Until Dec 31, 16-19.30, closed Mon. & Tarkovsky on the occasion of the 20th an- Associazione Akropolis, Info 055461428, 16,30 (17,30 during march), from april to
Hols, FYR Arte Contemporanea, Borgo de- niversary of death. http://it.geocites.com/associazione_akro- oct h 8,15 to 18,30, entrance 8€ info 055
gli Albizi 23, info 055.2343351, www.fyr.it Until Feb 18, Archivio Storico del Co- polis/ all year 2651838
mune di Firenze, via dell’Oriuolo 33, info Baluardo a San Giorgio Villa Peyron
Mostra on line “Die Flut” Alluvione 055.2345943, www.comune.fi.it/archivio-
1966 Every last Sunday of the month, 9.30-12.30, via Vincigliata 2 Fiesole, info 055 454791
storico/main.ht info 055-2616051, free
Photo by Ivo Bazzichi
From now on’ by May Cornet n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
Until March 31, Kunsthistorische Institut di
Firenze, info 055.27681 Untill Feb 28, 10-13, 14.30-19, Galleria n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Firenze Moms 4 Moms Network
Bagnai, Via Coluccio Salutati, www.galle- Ciompi Antique fair (in English) for many exciting events such
Marmo d’Arte a Firenze riabagnai.it Piazza de’ Ciompi, info 055.3283550, eve- as Playgroups, Mom’s Night Out, Couples
Until March 30, 9.30-12.30; 14.30-18.00, ry week day and last Sunday of the month Night Out and more
Parco d’Arte E. Pazzagli, Via Sant’Andrea a Femmes d’autrefois
paintings by Medea Mercato del Porcellino For English Speaking Moms in Florence
Rovezzano 5 and the surrounding areas: check out this
Until Feb 22, Maison Dumitru, B.go Pinti Florentine crafts with straw, hand-made em-
Furini - La Notte del Barocco 25R, info maisondumitru@libero.it broidery, leather, woodwork,and flowers link http://www.firenzemoms4moms.net/ .
Until April 1, Museo degli Argenti di Palazzo Logge del Porcellino, every day, all day Form more information: infotiscali@firenzem
Pitti, piazza Pitti 1, info 055.294883 Il Rinascimento dei bambini oms4moms.net or call # 333-572-8945.
Until March 31, Istituto degli Innocenti - tel. Mercato San Lorenzo
Archeologia e restauro in Toscana 055203711 Florentine crafts, hand-made embroidery, Mudi Lab - workshops and daily play
Until Feb 28, Mon 14-19; Tue and Thur paper, leather etc courses
8.30-19; Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun 8.30-14, Il Re Bello e la sua Corte Every day 9am.-6pm., Istituto degli Inno-
Bozzetti, elementi scenici e costumi del- Streets around Basilica San Lorenzo, every
Museo Archeologico, Via della Colonna, 36 day, all day centi LA BOTTEGA DEI RAGAZZI, via dei
l’opera Il Re Bello. Fibbiai 2 - tel. 0552478386 - www.istituto-
C’era una volta... Pinocchio at Palazzo Until Feb 25, Teatro della Pergola, via della Christmas in the different area di-
Pitti. deglinnocenti.it
Pergola 18, tel. 055.22641, www.pergola. stricts
Drawings and book exhibition firenze.it Until February 17, 2007, Various locations - Trotting race
Until March 25, 8.15-18.50, Galleria d’Arte info Q.1-Q.2-Q.3-Q.4-Q.5 - www.comune. February 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21 Ippodromo
Moderna, Palazzo Pitti, info 055.2388720, Lo spirito delle cose by Roberta Cro- Le Mulina - info 0554226076 - www.ippo-
cioni fi.it
www.polomuseale.firenze.it city.com
Back to Folk
Until Feb 22, 11-13, 15.30-19.30, Galleria
del Palazzo Palazzo Coveri, Lungarno Guic-
n MUSIC & CONCERTS Trotting race
Collective drawing exhibition (Raymond ciardini 19, info 055.281044, www.galleria- Jazz...do it! February 2, 4, 7 Ippodromo Le Mulina - info
Pettibon, Marcel Dzama, Vanni, Cuoghi, delpalazzo.com Jazz & contemporary 0554226076 - www.ippocity.com
Enrico Vezzi, Matteo Fato) organised by
Ivan Quaroni Non per caso by Daniel Spoerri
Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca, 14/16r
, info 055-281940, www.dulcisinfundo.org, n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)
Until Feb 17, Galleria Daniele ugolini Until April 29, Centro per l’Arte Contempo- www.carusojazzcafe.com, h 21.30 La macellara
Contemporary, via Montebello 22r, tel. ranea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Repubblica 277, Feb 10-11, 17-18, 24-25, 21.00, Sun
Prato, tel. 0574.5317, www.centropecci.it Organ concerts
055.2654183, www.ugoliniart.com
Every day at 9.15 pm; on Saturdays at 6pm, 16.30, € 6/8, Teatro Il Palco, Piazza Elia
Creatività a colori Personale di puntesecche di Antonio Chiesa S.Maria de’ Ricci info 055215044 dalla Costa 26, tel. 055.6810496, www.
Until Feb 28, 9-13 e 14-18, Museo Sal- Manzi teatroilpalco.com
vatore Ferragamo, via Tornabuoni 2, tel. Until Feb 13, Archivio di Stato, viale Giovine Concerts at St. Mark’s English Church
The “Orpheus Ensemble” presents sacred I barroccini di via dell’Ariento
055.3360456, www.museoferragamo.it Italia 6, tel. 055.244422 Feb 10-11, 17-18, 21.15, Sun 16.15,
music, Italian opera arias and Neapolitan
Gli animali di Pinocchio Gianni Rodari nel mondo Songs with piano and voice €11, Teatro Nuovo, via Fanfani 16, tel.
works of Gaudenzio Nazario and the chil- Exhibition of foreign editions by Rodari St. Mark’s English Church, Via Maggio 16- 055.413067
dren’s publications from the first half of the Until March 31, Museo Marino Marini, Piaz- 18, info 340.8119192, every day at 21.15, I’ figliolo di prete
19th century.. zo San Pancrazio, tel. 055.219432, www. €15, for The Florentine readers € 10 (Mon- in vernacular
Until Feb 28, 9-18.30; Sat 9-13.30, Biblio- museomarinomarini.it days free piano recital) Feb 10-11, 17-18, 21.00, Sun 16.30, Tea-
teca Marucelliana, via Cavour 43-47, tel. Pitture e Collage dell’artista fiorentino tro di Cestello, Piazza del Cestello, 4, tel.
055.2722200, www.maru.firenze.sbn.it Organ and instrumental concerts
Angelo Pontecorboli Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del 055.294609, www.teatrodicestello.tbo.it
Although it is not my profession. Drawings, collages, graphics and designs Corso, info 055.289367, all year, Mon-Sun Lina Sastri in “Corpo Celeste”
Michelangelo and the architectural Until Feb 27, 9-17, free, SACI Gallery Studio 21.15, Sat 18.00, €11 Feb 13-18, 20.45, Sun 15.45, Teatro
drawing Art Centers International, Palazzo dei Car- della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18, tel.
Until March 19, Casa Buonarroti, via Ghi- telloni, via S. Antonino 11, tel. 055.289948, Ascolti musica. Concerts
From January 25 to June 2m Scandicci Tea- 055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it
bellina 70, info 055-241752, 9.30-14, www.saci-florence.org
tro Studio tel. 055757348 - www.scandic- Il Vangelo secondo Gesù Cristo
www.casabuonarroti.it, € 6,50 Anamnesi by Claudia Ballesio cicultura.org
Until March 5, 16-19, closed Sun and Mon,
12 What’s on & Where to Go
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
Events in FLORENCE FEB 9 TO FEB 22
Feb 13-18, 21.00, Sun 16.45, Teatro Puc- Festa di Carnevale Montegrappa 138, Prato Feb 11, 18, 20, Rufina, tel. 055.8399014,
cini, via delle Cascine 41, tel. 055.362067, Masks and performances Artisti Amici dei Musei all day
www.teatropuccini.it Feb 17, 17.00, Teatro del Crc Antella, Via Until Feb 28, 10-13, 15-18, Tues closed, Carnevale mugellano
Quella del piano di sopra Pulicciano 53, Antella Cassero Medievale, viale Piave, Prato Feb 11, 18, 20, Borgo San Lorenzo, histori-
Feb 15-18, 20.45, Sun 16.45, Teatro Verdi, Le avventure di fagiolino Kashmir: The 5 senses cal center, from 15.00
via Ghibellina 99, tel. 055.212320, www. Feb 10, 17.00, Auditorium Gianni Rodari, Until March 5, €6, closed on Tues, Museo Carnevale nella Firenze dei Medici e
teatroverdifirenze.it Via G. Lorca 1, La Villa, Campi Bisenzio del Tessuo, via Santa Chiara 24, Prato, dei Lorena
Quix. Un Don Quixote contemporaneo I musicanti di Brema 0574 611503, www.museodetessuto.it Light shows and dancing
Feb 15-19, Feb 25-26, 21.00, Teatro Puc- Feb 10, 16.00, Castello, via R. Giuliani 374, Scatti violenti Feb 11, Antico Spedale del Bigallo, Via
cini, via delle Cascine 41, tel. 055.362067, Rifredi Photografic exhibition about violence throu- Bigallo e Apparita 14, Bagno a Ripoli, info
www.teatropuccini.it Notizie dal matrimonio di Cenerentola gh the movies from Pasolini to Tarantino. 334-2007438, www.bigallo.it, from 20.00,
Giorgio Albertazzi in “Memorie di Feb 10, 16.30, Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Until May 13, Foyer del teatro della Limo- prenotazione obbligatoria
Adriano” Pisana 111r, tel. 055.573857, www.elsinor. naia, via Gramsci 426, Sesto Fiorentino, tel. Fierucola delle bigonge
Feb 20-25, 20.45, Sun 15.45, Teatro it, €5/7 055.440852 - www.teatrodellalimonaia.it Feb 11, Piazza del Comune e Piazza Buona-
della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18, tel. Il gatto mammone Non per caso by Daniel Spoerri mici, Prato, 9-19
055.22641, www.pergola.firenze.it Feb 11, 17.00, Teatro Moderno ARCI, Via Until April 29, 10-19, Tues closed, Centro Fiera di Carnevale
Gioie. Frammenti di vita di Anna Maria Gramsci 5, Tavarnuzze per l’Arte Contemporanea Luigi Pecci, v.le Feb 11, 18, San Mauro a Signa city center,
Luisa de’ Medici, Elettrice Palatina Cappuccetto Rosso della Repubblica 277, Prato, tel. 0574.5317, all day
Feb 20-25, 21.15, Sun 17.00, Salone Do- Feb 11, 16.30, Teatro Cantiere Florida, via www.centropecci.it
natello, sotterranei di San Lorenzo, info Week-end of February 17-18
Pisana 111r, tel. 055.573857, www.elsinor. Tribute to Boccaccio. Painting exhibi-
055-6120205, €12 it, €5/7 tion Carnival festival
Alessandro Preziosi in “Datemi tre ca- from February 18 to March 31, Certaldo (Fi- Feb 10, 17, 20, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Se-
Baracche e burattini sto Fiorentino, tel. 055.4496357, all day
ravelle!” 10th Annual Children’s Theatre Festival renze) Palazzo Pretorio tel. 0571661219
Feb 22-25, 20.45, Sun 16.45, Teatro Verdi, Feb. 10,17, 16.00, € 4,00, Castello, via R. - www.comune.certaldo.fi.it Carnival parade
via Ghibellina 99, tel. 055.212320, www. Feb 11, 18, 20, Rufina, tel. 055.8399014,
teatroverdifirenze.it
Giuliani 374, info 055.2767045 n GUIDED TOURS all day
Pinocchio Visita dell’Abbazia
puppets show Carnevale mugellano
Every Wed and Friday 10-12, Sun 15.30-
UP COMING Feb 17, 16.30, €4, Castello, via R. Giuliani 18.00, Abbazia San Salvatore e San Loren-
Feb 11, 18, 20, Borgo San Lorenzo, histori-
cal center, from 15.00
374, Rifredi zo a Settimo, Scandicci, www.badiadisetti-
n EXHIBITS Il gatto con gli stivali mo.it, info 055-7310537 Fiera di Carnevale
Feb 11, 18, San Mauro a Signa city center,
Cezanne and Impressionism in Floren- Feb 18, 17.00, Teatro Regina Margherita, La foresta dell’Acquerino
via A. Mori 20 , Loc. Marcialla, Barberino all day
ce trekking
From March 2 to July 29, Palazzo Strozzi, Val d’Elsa Feb 11, 7.45, starting point Bar Moncelli, Little Carnival parade
info 055 2776461 www.cezannefirenze.it L’orco con le penne loc. Santa Lucia, Prato, info 368-3873099 Feb 17, Piazza della Vittoria Vicchio, tel.
Feb 18, 17.00, Limonaia Villa Montalvo, via 055.844003, all day
n MUSIC & CONCERTS di Limite, Campi Bisenzio
A ‘Nature’ Itinerary in the hills of Cal-
vana Fair of crafts, antiques and second-
Sting in concert Buon compleanno papà Feb 13, 21.00, info 0574-22004, www.cai- hand goods
Feb 22, Auditorium Parco della Musica in Feb 18, 17.30, Teatro del Popolo di Castel- prato.it Feb 18, Dicomano, tel. 055.838541, all
Rome; Feb 23, Teatro degli Arcimboldi in nuovo d’Elsa day
Milan, info & booking www.boxol.it La valle del Rio Buti
Festa di Carnevale trekking Carnevale Dicomanese
Grand Performance: Stenterello Feb 18, info 368-3873099, www.polispor- Feb 18, 20, Dicomano city center, all day
CHILDREN Feb 18, 17.00, Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da tivaaurora.it Sagra of sweets and chestnuts
Vinci 2r, tel. 055.572831, www.caspi.it/tea- On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi Feb 18, Loc. Migliana, Cantagallo (Prato),
n CINEMA tri/defaultLaudi.htm Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s all day
Cinema Kids Quante storie!! Theatre for children fresco (max 12 persons) Mercatino di artigianato e antiquaria-
every Sunday at 17.00 Feb 22, 17.30, €4, Cinema Accade- Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del to
Istituto Stensen, v.le don Minzoni 25/c, tel. mia, via Montanelli 33, Pontassieve, tel. Duomo, Prato, info 0574.24112, www.re- Feb 18, Certaldo, 9-20
0558316437 - www.comune.pontassieve. staurofilippolippi.it, by reservation only, eve-
055.576551, www.stensen.org
fi.it ry Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17, Sun at 10, 11, €8 n MUSIC & CONCERTS
n GUIDED TOURS Pollicino e altre storie Abbey of San Salvatore and San Lo- La notte caraibica
Il Giardino di Archimede, Mathematics’ Feb 22, 17.30, Accademia Cinema, Via renzo a Settimo free caribean dance lessons
Sundays Montanelli 33 , Pontassieve Every Wed, Fri 10-12, Sun 15.30-18, clo- Feb 12, 14, 19, 21, only on Mon and Wed
Guided visits and surprise events at the sed July and Aug, Badia a Settimo, Scan- 22.15, Omi Music Club, via Tevere 100,
Museum dicci, info 055.7310537, www.badiadiset- Osmannoro
All year, Il Giardino di Archimede, Museo OUT OF TOWN timo.it Live music
per la Matematica, via S. Bartolo a Cintoia The Ceramics of Montelupo Feb 9, 16, 22.00, Fattoria del Bassetto,
19, info 055.7879594, www.archimede.ms, n COMPETITION Free guided visits of Archaeology and Certaldo
on the first Sunday of every month Fare e disfare è tutto un lavorare Ceramics Museum and participation in European Saxofhone Quartet
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES concorso fotografico, premi in danaro
Until Feb 15, Camera di Commercio di Pra-
workshops
Every Thur from 10.00 to 14.00, Museo Ar-
Feb 9, 21.00, Conservatorio di San Nicco-
lò, p.za Cardinal S. Niccolò 6 , Prato
The amazing circus of Merlin the Wi- to info: www.po.camcom.it cheologico e della Ceramica, Moninfoupo
zard Almasfera
Italia Wave Fiorentino, info 0571.518993 Feb 9, 21.30, Officina Giovani, piazza dei
Workshop to create circus equipment. For
children ages 4 to 11 Regional selections participating in the Wine and Fashion in the Florentine Macelli, Prato, info 05741836753
Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, info Arezzo Wave 2007 Mountains. Itineraries with guided vi- Maratona Beethoven
055.264471, every Thur, 17.00 Feb 16, 21.30, Officina Giovani, piazza dei sits, shopping isonatas for violin and piano
Macelli, Prato, info 05741836753 Tours to discover the beauty of the Floren- Feb 10, 21.00, Teatro Shalom, via Busoni,
The little joiner’s shop tine Mountains. Visits to artisan workshops
Workshop to create wooden games. De- n EXHIBITS and local shopping centres
24 , Empoli, info 0571.711122
velops creativity and dexterity. For children Corrispondenze - Works from the col- All year Mon and Sat, Resco Travel, info Godamn Superstar
ages 4 to 10 lection of Centro Pecci and Civic Mu- 055.868009 Marilyn Manson tribute
Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, info seum of Prato Feb 10, 22.30, Siddharta, via Trav. Pistoie-
055.264471, every Wed, 17.00 Until April 7, 10-14, 15-19, Centro per l’Arte n MARKETS & FESTIVALS se 83, San Paolo, Prato
The world through the senses Contemporanea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Re- Festa de l’Unità Invernale Concerti-aperitivo
Experimenting with the senses (taste, sight, pubblica 277, Prato, tel. 0574.5317, www. Feb 13-18, Montespertoli city center, eve- Feb 11, 18, 10.00, Teatro Metastasio, via
hearing, touch, smell) through games and centropecci.it ning (Sat, Sun all day) Cairoli 59, Prato, tel. 0574.6084, www.me-
book-readings. For children ages 2 to 5 Opere pittoriche di Franco Ferraro Atmosphere and mystery, a night of tastasio.it
Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, info Until April 27, closed Sat and Sun, free, Carnevale
055.264471, every Fri, 17.00 Partiture
Confartigianato Sede di Maliseti, via Sac- Feb 15, Borgo san Lorenzo historical cen- Original concert by 4 young composers
Carnevalino dei ragazzi centi 19/21, Prato ter, 21.00 Feb 11, 17.00, Teatro Magnolfi, via Gobetti
piazza Vittoria, Vicchio, 14.30-18.30 Carlo Ginori’s album. Documents and Polentata delle ceneri 74, Prato
Il Carnevale di Paperino pathways of an illuminated man. Exhi- Feb 21, Borgo San Lorenzo city center, L’Elisir d’Amore di Donizetti
Feb 18, 20, Circolo Arci Paperino, Paperino bition and guided visits from 8 to 13 Feb 11, 15.00, Teatro Dante, piazza Dante
, Prato, info 0574.540192 Until April 30, Museo Richard Ginori Sesto 53, Campi Bisenzio
Fiorentino, tel. 055.4207767 Week-end of February 10-11
Il carnevale dei bambini Gaudeamus Omnes
Musica, balli e clownerie Kids Riot - Botto e Bruno Antique fair at Villa Corsini Dancing and singing of Carnasciale Rina-
Auditorium Gianni Rodari, Campi Bisenzio, Until May 20, 9-19, Centro per l’Arte Con- Feb 9, 10, 11, Villa Corsini a Mezzomonte, scimentale
16.00 temporanea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Repubbli- Impruneta (Firenze), www.mediag.it, from Feb 11, 16.30, Auditorium La Tinaia di Par-
ca 277, Prato, tel. 0574.5317, www.centro- 10 to 20, 7€ co Corsini, Fucecchio
n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) pecci.it Mostra Mercato di Antiquariato “Villa Di 10 in 10
Saburan Chi guarda chi? Corsini” Dedicated to the 80’s
puppet show Portraits by Leo Cardini Feb 9 to 11, Villa Corsini, San Casciano, Feb 11, 21.30, Officina Giovani, piazza dei
Every Sat at 17.00, Teatro del Crc Antella, Until Feb 28, Overspace, via Inghirami 19, info www.mediag.it, 10-20, 7€ Macelli, Prato, info 05741836753
Via Pulicciano 53, Antella Prato, info 0574.595645, www.overarredo- Antique market Diana Torto-John Taylor Duo
Puppet show design.it Feb 10, Incisa Valdarno, tel. 055.8333450, Feb 12, 21.15, Teatro Metastasio, via Cai-
Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, info Aldo Lurci paintings all day roli 59, Prato, tel. 0574.6084, www.meta-
055.264471, every Sat, 17.00 Until March 14, Confartigianato di Prato, via Carnival parade stasio.it
What’s on & Where to Go 13
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Events in FLORENCE FEB 9 TO FEB 22
Paolo Fresu & Uri Caine National Championship Soccer serie A
classic music revisited Stadio Castellani, V.le delle Olimpiadi , Em-
Feb 16, 21.15, Teatro Aurora, via S. Bartolo poli, 18.00
in Tuto 1, Scandicci Empoli vs Roma
Carnival Concert National Championship Soccer serie A
Offenbach, Strauss father and son, Lanner, Stadio Castellani, V.le delle Olimpiadi , Em-
Lehár, Fucik music, Peter Guth director poli, 18.00
Feb 17, 21.00, Teatro Comunale Garibaldi, Scandicci corre
piazza Serristori, Figline Valdarno half Marathon
Festa di Carnevale con I Cavalieri del info 055.7591273, www.podisticailponte.it
Re
dark and metal music n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted)
Feb 17, 21.30, Siddharta, via Trav. Pistoiese Macbeth
83, San Paolo, Prato Feb 7-11, 21.00, Sun 16.00, Teatro Meta-
Lanzoni, Tavolazzi, Paoli Trio stasio, via Cairoli 59, Prato, tel. 0574.6084,
classical music www.metastasio.it
Feb 17, 21.15, Teatro Regina Margherita via Il medico dei pazzi
A. Mori, 20 , Loc. Marcialla , Barberino Val Feb 9-11, 21.00, Sun 16.00, Teatro Excel-
d’Elsa sior, via Ridolfi 75, Empoli, tel. 0571.72023
Anthony Braxton Sextet Alessandro Benvenuti in “Addio Gori”
Feb 19, 21.00, Teatro Metastasio, via Cai- Feb 13, 21.00, Teatro Niccolini di San Ca-
roli 59, Prato, tel. 0574.6084, www.meta- sciano
stasio.it
Carnival Concert
Offenbach, Strauss father and son, Lanner, IN TUSCANY
Lehár, Fucik music, Peter Guth director
Feb 22, 21.00, Teatro Excelsior, via Ridolfi n EXHIBITS
75, Empoli La passione e l’arte
Camerata Strumentale “Città di Prato” Bransi and Magnani collections
Feb 22, 21.00, Teatro Politeama Pratese, via Dec 8 to March 11, Santa Maria della Scala
Garibaldi 33-35, Prato, tel. 0574.455210, Palazzo Squarcialupi, Siena, info www.ver-
www.politeamapratese.com niceprogetti.it
Concerto-recital Rosa Balistreri Joel Peter Witkin
Feb 17, 21.15, Teatro Manzoni di Calenzano American artists’ exhibition
Via Mascagni 18, Calenzano Jan 20 to April 8, Seravezza, Palazzo Medi-
ceo, info 392.9586574, 15- 20 closed on
n PARKS Mon, € 5
Sculptures in a woodland
In an untouched wood of ilex and oak trees
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
in the heart of Sienese Chianti, many inter- Carnevale di Santa Croce 2007
nationally renowned artists from five conti- Carnival Parade
nents have created imposing contemporary Feb 11and 18, Santa Croce sull’Arno (Pisa),
sculptures info 0571.34473, 16.30
Parco sculture del Chianti, La For- Carnevale di Foiano della Chiana 2007
nace 48/49, Pievasciata, Siena, info Carnival Parade
0577.357151, www.chiantisculpturepark.it, Feb 11 and 18, Foiano della Chiana (Arez-
open all year zo), info 0575.642100, wwww.carnevaledi-
foiano.it, from 14 to 19
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Carnevale di Foiano di Viareggio
Il Triocco. Handicraft and collectors’ Carnival Parade
market Feb 11, 18, 20, Viareggio (Lucca), info
Figline Valdarno, info 055.951569, all day 0584.795520, wwww.carnevaledifoiano.it,
Empoli vs Palermo from 14 to 19
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14
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
UP CLOSE & PERSONAL
An Interview with The Florentine: Tell us about your father as ‘Flood Mayor’.
Antonina Bargellini Antonina Bargellini: When my father become mayor he said, ‘I’ve made so
many love declarations to Florence that in the end I had to marry her. I believe
in life-long marriage so I will always be married to this city. In the same way that
I’ve only had one wife throughout my life, I will only have one city’. And when the
by Elia Celestina Della Chiesa flood came, we really got to witness how strong that marriage actually was.
My father’s biggest worry after the flood was that Florence would be con-
sidered a dead city. He made huge, immediate efforts to help the city get back
on its feet by giving public money to the people who needed it. ‘This money is
burning in my hands’ he would say and then give it away without waiting for
‘How fortunate indeed is your Firenze, to have as Mayor a man bureaucratic approval. The city sued him several times for that. He used to tell
like you, so sensitive to her beauty.’ us, ‘The flood left me with bronchitis and a whole lot of time in court’.
In the days after the flood, people took to sending him money personally to
Jacqueline Kennedy distribute as he saw fit. Clothes, too. There was a Swiss baron who sent us a
frightening amount of clothes—mostly tuxedos and evening gowns! And my
mother would wring her hands and say ‘How can I give these to people? They
will throw them back at me’. Santa Croce was a poor neighbourhood. These
people were fighting to survive. You couldn’t give them fancy suits at times like
those! I remember my brother helping himself to some dinner jackets and I took
a camel-hair coat. My father was very severe, ‘If you take one thing, you have to
give back two of your own’.
We transformed our basement into a huge centre for the needy, and the door
was always open. I mean, half of it had been washed away by the flood, but the
other half was always open. We couldn’t give food, though. We had no gas to
cook with. But people would bring us food and we’d host whoever came for a
meal. People would come here, eat, talk, cry and then get back to work again.
TF: What do you most remember about the flood?
AB: Well, this house was flooded under 6 meters of water and we lived on the
top floors. All the neighbours came to stay with us, because they felt safer here.
They talked that first night saying ‘Well, at least we live on the mayor’s street;
surely it will be the first one he’ll restore’. How wrong they were! My father
Mayor Piero Bargellini with daughter Antonina, 1966 never would have fixed up his own street first! He had a very different plan for
our house. He made it into the symbol of flooded Florence. He’d take powerful
A ssessor of Education, Culture and the Environment under Giorgio La Pira in
the 1950s, Piero Bargellini became mayor of Florence in 1966. Fondly
remembered by Florentines as the ‘Flood Mayor’, Mr Bargellini distinguished
people on tours through the house to make them aware of how hard the city
had been hit by the tragedy. Santa Croce was one of the neighbourhoods that
suffered the most. The only time we saw him in the days of the flood was when
himself for his dedication to Florence and his noteworthy organizational abilities. he came to tour people through. He had so many people to take care of. We
Bargellini used his home as the operation headquarters where politicians and weren’t his only family. The whole of Florence was his family.
The nights of the flood, citizens would spread news through open windows
writers such as Aldo Moro, Ted Kennedy, Saragat and Montanelli were received
and from rooftops. ‘We have a sick woman here; send news of her to Palazzo
during the days following the Arno tragedy. Elected senator in 1968 and later Vecchio’. Messages would travel from rooftop to rooftop in the dark. People
appointed judge, he was a prolific writer throughout his entire life, authoring no wanted the voices needed to reach City Hall because Bargellini was there. My
less than 120 books. He was also founding editor of Il Frontespizio, an important father was struck by the faith people had in Palazzo Vecchio.
cultural magazine which gathered together noteworthy Italian writers like Carlo
Bo, Mario Luzi and don Giuseppe De Sica. The sixth daughter of Piero Bargel- TF: How has this experience changed your life?
lini, Antonina ‘grew up’ in Palazzo Vecchio. She accompanied her father on
AB: Well, I do want to clarify one thing. I only want to talk about the flood if my
many official visits including the Mayor’s 1966 trip to the United States to raise
stories can somehow have meaning in today’s world. To me, Florence is cur-
funds for victims of the flood. Antonina has always shared her father’s vocation rently going through very hard times. Today’s tragedy is different from the one
for protecting and improving Florence. She has dedicated her life to volunteer caused by the flood, and in a way, it’s almost worse. The degradation of the city
work in hopes of bettering her city on both the human and artistic level. and the indifference of its citizens pain me so much.
15
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
UP CLOSE & PERSONAL
see tourists admiring this house and I go downstairs and ask them if they’d like to
see the inside of a real Tuscan palazzo. Most look at me like I’m crazy, but some
accept and leave my home immensely grateful. It takes so little to make a guest
feel welcome. Tell them a bit of history or give a smile. Florence has become a
vulgar city. We need to stop that and develop and protect our relationships with
foreigners. People now come to Florence for three minutes, wait in frighteningly
long lines and can’t wait to leave again. My utopia would be to make Florence in
2007 a welcoming city on various levels.
TF: How can Florence become a ‘welcoming’ city?
AB: There’s a lot of immigration today, we can’t negate that, and it’s right that
things should be this way. The city hosts people from all over the world, and
Florence needs to learn to welcome them. I am working to bring together a
group of Florentines and foreigners—people from Senegal, Ivory Coast, Togo,
Algeria and other places around the world. There are many immigrants who
have an incredibly high cultural level and they live as outcasts. Our group’s
objective is to work together against the degradation of Florence. The city’s
We must take the time to re-read the flood and see why Florence sprang physical degradation comes from not having an authentic relationship with the
from her ruins even more beautiful than before. In 1966, we all worked together, city. It springs from feeling like you don’t belong to it. If people feel no spiritual
united by a real love for this city. People were desperate, but we all worked attachment to the place they’re living, then they automatically lack respect for
side-by-side without political or social barriers. All of those young people came it. I don’t accuse foreigners: I think the Florentines are the first to show disre-
from all over the world to help. My father worried about their arrival, ‘My God, spect for their city. But with this international group, we are trying to educate
he said, ‘where in the world am I going to put them all? What am I going to feed ourselves about our rights and duties so that we can stop acting like subjects
them’? They were children in his eyes—many hadn’t turned 18 yet. There were and start acting like true citizens. A Senegalese writer said, ‘We want to stop
hundreds and they had nowhere to sleep. But they came with a certain spirit demanding things for our community. We want to start giving back to Florence.
and with an inner strength.A true sense of solidarity. We need to re-introduce Ultimately, we want to give our love’. It’s about offering concrete love—through
that feeling to this city. There are so many problems today. We have to find a various forms of social activism. I’m not talking about forming an association.
way to recreate that welcoming, altruistic spirit. We are moving to become part of the solidarity networks that already exist in
This city has always demonstrated openness towards young people, and the Florentine neighbourhood councils. It’s about recognizing and responding
that’s why so many came to help when she was in trouble. Venice also flooded to the needs of the people who live in our neighbourhoods. And it’s a move-
but didn’t receive the same response. Florence has always given a strong mes- ment where Florentines and foreigners work together. If you work together,
sage to young people—of hope and Humanism. After all, Humanism was born side by side, you become friends, and forging friendship is the first step in
here. This is a special city. changing society.
TF: What problems do you feel are most prevalent in Florence today?
AB: My father considered Florence a beautiful woman who needs to be cared
about deeply and in even the smallest of ways. Otherwise, she’ll get worn down,
lose her charm and become vulgar. He passed that view onto me. He felt it really
important to protect her beauty, maintain her smaller alleys, city-wide lighting and
her forgotten gardens—he truly wanted Florence to be ‘the city of flowers’. My
God, if he could see Florence now! His goal as a writer was to inspire love for
this city. It was the gift he wanted to give people, and it is a sentiment we are
really lacking.
I mean, if you look at history you can see that there has been a true change
in attitude. We’ve gone from being merchants to being mere shopkeepers. The
Florentines have always been merchants, in the highest sense of the word. The
Medici, the Strozzi knew how to get wealthy, but as they did, they made efforts
to make the city more beautiful. Their perspective was simple: the more beauti-
ful the city, the more wealth it will generate. People will come to it, and the more
relationships we form with visitors, the better off the city will be. The merchants
earned a lot, but they also built, restored and protected a lot. Our mentality today
is drastically different. We are out to take advantage of the city, not to enhance it.
In our search for economic profit, we render it poorer than before.
No one can spare a moment of kindness for a tourist, for example. Sometimes I
FIRENZEITALY
Cesare Moncelli
Via S. Maria 16 r
50125 Firenze
www.segnidiseta.it
studio@segnidiseta.it
16 Life in Italy
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
MOSAICS BY
L ook to Jane Fortune’s column for news and views on Florence’s best cultural events, from art and music to
dance and theatre. Discover must-dine family restaurants and many of the area’s unsung treasures. Spotlight on FAMILY
women artists, outstanding artisans and unsung heroes of Florentine tradition. Don’t miss Jane’s Gems, places to
go and people to know—for the veteran city-dweller and the newly arrived. RESTAURANT
In this section, expect suggestions
regarding restaurants Bob and I par-
ticularly love—for their good food, and
The past in wax at ‘La Specola’ especially the friendship and kindness
each has extended to us over the 15
years we have been coming to Flor-
Section of the Natural History Museum of the University of Florence ence. Several restaurants will be well-
known, others may not be, but each
by Dottoressa Marta Poggesi, Direttrice has one thing in common—they have
shared their lives with us and that is a
gift we most treasure.
I n 1771, the Wax Model Workshop
was established in Florence by
Abbot Felice Fontana, who became
Via Romana 17
Entrance fee: 4 euro adults, To paraphrase, the cuisine of Florence
is like ‘Brunelleschi’s architectural lines,
2 euro for children ages 6–16, which need nothing added, and nothing
the museum’s first director. For more Children under 6 enter free. Jane’s comments: ‘Specola’ means subtracted.’
than a century, this workshop pro- Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, ‘observatory’. This collection is
duced anatomical wax models which Sunday 9-1; Saturdays 9-5; closed famous throughout the world for its
today constitute one of the most Wednesdays. incredible accuracy and the realism RESTAURANT: I’ che’ c’e c’e
prestigious collections of its kind in its details. Florence has a long tradi- Via Magalotti 11/r
Tel: 055-228-8251 (A side street off Borgo dei Greci
the world. Supported by Grand Duke tion of artistic wax modeling, intro-
Peter Leopold of Lorraine, the work- between Piazza Santa Croce and
duced by Ludovico Cigoli (1559–
Piazza della Signoria)
shop occupied the ground floor of a series of illustrations and related 1613). It was not until the second Closed: Mondays /Tel: 055-216589
Palazzo Torrigiani (adjacent to Pala- explanatory sheets. The preparation half of the 18th century, however,
method began with dissection of
L
zzo Pitti). In 1775, the Palazzo was that experts opened a school of cero- ocated in the oldest section of Flor-
officially inaugurated and opened to the cadaver. The resulting anatomi- plastics (the art of modelling ana- ence, this is another wonderful fam-
the public as the Royal and Imperial cal pieces were used to create clay tomical specimens in wax). Clemente ily restaurant. Friendly, casual, it has
Museum of Physics and Natural His- models. The plaster moulds obtained Susini, for example, crafted models individual tables as well as communal
tory (the current ‘La Specola’ Zool- from the clay models were then filled for medical students between 1775 seating at long wooden tables and
ogy Museum). with wax. and 1814 and remained active until benches in the center of the room. Gino
Thus, the workshop began pro- In almost a century of work, an 1893. The museum’s most impor- Noci, owner and chef, serves traditional
duction even before the museum was enormous number of models were Tuscan food with a French flair. Gino
tant pieces are a group of waxes by trained with Giorgio Pinchiorri at Buca
established, and its products are still produced, mostly depicting human Gaetano Zumbo (1656–1701) that Lapi before opening his own restaurant,
admired for their accuracy, original- anatomy but also illustrating com- have extraordinary artistic value. I’che’c’è c’è, which he runs together
ity and artistry. They were created parative anatomy and botany. Many They carry both philosophical and with his lovely wife, Mara. He also gives
for educational purposes, to teach of these models were commissioned religious meaning, besides being cooking classes in Fabbrica, a hamlet
anatomy through directly observing by buyers both in Italy and abroad. excellent anatomical models. These outside of Florence. He also annually
a cadaver. In fact, the collection was More than 1,400 pieces are cur- life-size pieces, which reproduce all holds classes in Tuscan cooking at a
conceived as a three-dimensional rently exhibited in the La Specola the details of the human body, are private club in Atlanta, Georgia. A com-
treatise, in that it not only consisted Museum, featured in 581 showcases sometimes very hard to look at, but plimentary glass of prosecco and coc-
of wax models but also included of located in 10 rooms. always fascinating. coli (salty, fried bread dough balls) are
offered after you’re seated. Many years
ago, at our first meal here, Gino person-
ally introduced us to the sweet, ice-cold,
after-dinner lemon liqueur, limoncello!
JANE’S GEMS Menu suggestions: Grilled salmon
(salmone), which is ‘melt in your mouth
delicious’ with or without a rich mush-
I
n the October 19, 2006 issue, I In the words of restorer room sauce, and carciofi alla Romana
wrote an article about Suor Plau- Rossella Lari: (these artichokes are better then the
tilla Nelli, the first known woman ones you can get in Rome!)—all musts.
I’d like to express my deepest gratitude I’ che’c’e c’e has great desserts, but
painter of Florence and about the to the Florence Committee of the National if you crave ice-cream (gelato), Vivoli (via
restoration of her painting Lamenta- Museum of Women in the Arts, and in par- isola della Stinche7/r; closed Mondays)
tion with Saints, which was unveiled ticular to Jane Fortune and Magnolia Scud- is nearby. This well-known, family-owned
last October and can be seen in the ieri, for giving me the opportunity to restore gelateria has been open since 1930.
large refectory at the Museo di San Plautilla Nelli’s Lamentation. Often people Gelato ingredients are milk, eggs, sugar
Marco. The Florence Committee of and natural flavors—and until you tasted
have asked me what I felt as I carried out chocolate (cioccolato), you’ve never
the National Museum of Women in this project, and only now, at the end, can
the Arts restored the painting and tasted anything so delicious! Some think
I express the different sensations that it Bernardo Buontalenti (the Italian Man-
produced a DVD on the project. I inspired in me. Let me begin, however, by nerist who created the famous grotto in
asked the renowned restorer, Ros- saying that in every project, a conservator the Boboli Gardens) created gelato for
sella Lari, to express how she felt as must have two different approaches to the Francesco de’ Medici in 1565.
she was restoring the painting, which work in question. First, you need to look at
is included as part of the DVD. I was it as a whole, exchanging impressions and
very moved by what she said and Jane Fortune fell in love with Florence
evaluations with the art historian who fol- when she spent her junior year abroad
would like to share it with our read- lows the project. Later, when you enter into
ers. As Jonathan Nelson (a Syracuse here ‘molti anni fa’. Returning again and
the operative stage, with brushes and scal- again over the years with her life partner,
University/ Florence professor and pels in hand, you can consider only the physical reality of the work, without Bob Hesse, they now live here part time.
editor of the book Suor Plautilla Nelli, allowing yourself any emotions about the image itself. You need this distance Jane, whose passion is art, serves as a
The First Woman Painter of Florence) in order to save the smallest paint flake, independent of the value of the paint- trustee on several boards of museums in
expressed to me, ‘often a restorer ing or how much you like it. the United States. In Florence, she is the
works with a sense of detachment, At the end of the day, however, I often let myself be moved by the timid chairman and founder of the Florence
in order to be fair and accurate, but compassion that emanates from the faces of the crying women. As a woman,
Committee of the National Museum of
after work, feels the emotion of his Women in the Arts (NMWA), a member
I let myself be carried back in time, to imagine the life of Sister Plautilla and of American International League (AIL),
or her work’. We, who were deeply her companions within the confines of the convent. At this point, as I rock
connected to this restoration project, chairman of the board of trustees of Stu-
myself in this dreamy spirit, the emotions arrive: with pleasure and a touch dio Art Centers International (SACI) and is
have become very emotionally tied to of pain I try to identify with Plautilla’s emotions. From this restoration I have currently writing a guide to the works by
Suor Plautilla Nelli and for me, she will come away enriched as a restorer, and as a person. Thanks to all of you. women artists in the Florence museums.
forever be part of my soul. Thank you, Plautilla.
Contact:
j.fortune@theflorentine.net
Life in Italy 17
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
ITALIAN VOICES: A WINDOW ON LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMS IN ITALY
‘Mah...’ ‘Sometimes used to introduce discussion or resume debate, mah is the
net that captures stray thoughts. It’s the time you take before you jump
and your chance to consider how cold the water is.’
by Linda Falcone
might not make it through the test hand it to Italians. They have a
drive. ‘Mah! I don’t know if this knack for creating words with
will work, but I’m willing to give it ant-like strength that can carry 10
a shot’. times their body weight. Constantly
A breath-based extension of ma, pressed for space, Italians have
the Italian word for ‘but’, mah carries learned how to pack a whole lot of
many of the same undertones. To meaning into a single unassuming
the English speaker ‘but’ can be one syllable. So, while mah may not be
scary bugger. With a tip of its hat, it a word for the highly dignified, it is
topples the tower you carefully built both a crutch and a walking stick
in the first clause. ‘I appreciate your that can certainly prove useful for
efforts, but the answer is no.’ Mah the likes of you and me.
is ‘but’ without the padding, and it One day, perhaps, we shall be
can stand alone if accompanied by wiser. In the meantime, it can’t hurt
an exclamation point. The seed of to have a word for all the things
that are hard to get your heart in
doubt and the champion of incon-
or your head around. Carry mah
formity, mah means ‘I disagree’. The
with you at all times. We can never
reasons why are considered obvious
know when the hemming, hawing,
and often left unexplained.
stalling side of ourselves will turn
With mah, looters like uncer- up and demand dinner. We’ll never
tainty, skepticism, ignorance and
I
have never been on a speed- ‘Mah, non ho imparato niente, I know when our wild inner child
doubt become the crowded inmates will want to break out and make
date in my life, and I’m hop- haven’t learned anything’.
‘So, write about not learning any- of a cell that’s only three letters non-conformist angels in the snow.
ing to be able to say that until
thing’. wide. In this sense, you’ve got to
the day I die. Repeated introduc-
tions, timers and frantic checklists I refused the idea at first, of
make me nervous. I’m just not good course. Partly because I couldn’t
at having to be interesting at high see the fun of it, and mostly because
speeds. Besides, when you live in a that’s what you do when you’re on
����������������������������������
country where getting sized up is the an all-encompassing refusal ram-
order of the day, there’s no need to page. But then it hit me—the word
torture oneself voluntarily—at least for that strange sense of inconfor- ������������������������������������������
in public. mity I’d been carrying around with �����������������������
I much prefer to have my ‘speed- me for days. It’s what Italians say,
date’ sessions in private—and most when they can’t think of anything to
�����������������������������������������
of these are purely language related. say. It’s mah.
Finding a nice free phrase to spend Often heard and frequently ��������������������������
quality time with is quite a feat, misunderstood, mah is a complex
��������������������������������������
especially if you’re prone to weed- exclamation with a myriad of mean-
ing words out of your mind with ings. Useful in times of unveiled ���������������������
the zeal of a gardener gone manic. mystery, mah is also known to Eng-
This week, for instance, I’ve had lish-speakers as ‘who knows’ or ‘I ���������������������������������������������
several impressive close encounters haven’t got a clue’. It’s quite a bit
with numerous Italian expressions. stronger than boh, the other sylla-
ble Italians use to admit ignorance.
������������������� �������������
Alas, none of them made it past our
seven-minute round of ‘getting to Both words show that you have no ���������������
know you’. idea what the final verdict will be, �����
��������������������� ������������������������
Admittedly, I am picky. A single but mah, carries more skepticism.
writer seeking depth cannot just ‘Mah! That case will need a decade ������������������ ��������������
go falling in love with every word- just to knock down the courtroom ������������������� ������������������
suitor who offers her a plate at the door. And once it’s in, there’s no �����������
telling what the judge’s gavel is
������������
picnic. For me, language is a love ������������������� ����������������������
relationship, and if my heart isn’t in going to hit’.
�����������
it or I can’t get my head around it, Sometimes used to introduce
��������������������� ����������������
then there’s just no sense leading a discussion or resume debate, mah
poor word on. Aloneness is better can also be a net that captures stray ������
than bad company, and survival can thoughts. It’s the time you take ����������������������������� ������������������
sometimes depend on a very good before you jump and your chance to �������������������������
��������������������
goodbye. consider how cold the water is. Like �������������������������� ���������������
When I am truly lonely for a the English word ‘well’, it gives you �����������������������
good word to write about, I call my a chance to round up your run-wild �������������������������
ideas. Mah, however, holds none of ����������������� ��������������������
mother. If you want to find some
�����������������������������
truth, you’ve got to go to someone well’s between-the-lines optimism. ������������������������
you can’t lie to. Plus, she is a writer Think of it as a disclaimer disguised ������������������������ ��������������������
too, who knows better than to pro- as an extra breath. As the prelude �������������������������������
to a thought you’ve never before
�������������������
vide me with mere vocabulary. ��������������������������������
‘Okay’, she told me over the phone formulated, mah is a buffer against
last night, ‘Tell me what you’ve false hopes. It serves to warn the �������������������� ��������������������
learned this week’. world that your speedy new theory ������������������������
18 Life in Italy
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
Culture & CUSTOMS
To whom we owe it all
The legacy of Lady de’ Medici
by Mary Ann Pinto
A
nna Maria Luisa de’ Medici
(1667–1743) ought to be one
of the most famous and pop-
ular Florentines of all times, for it
was she who turned Florence into
a cultural mecca. With a stroke of
her pen, she bequeathed the Medi-
ci’s jewels, pictures, sculptures,
manuscripts and buildings to the
city of Florence. Yet she has been
overlooked and neglected for more
than three centuries.
Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici
Anna Maria’s father, Grand
Duke Cosimo III, was a weak
and indolent ruler. Educated by a had tried to induce a miscarriage reinforced himself for his rare pub- bicycles chained to the fence sur-
fanatic theologian, Cosimo became when pregnant with Anna Maria, lic appearances by drinking heav- rounding it or the trash-bags litter-
a gloomy, religious fanatic. He by riding horseback at breakneck ily and then often behaved in a ing the ground add to the attraction
married the frivolous Margherita speed. She returned to France in slovenly manner. Anna Maria per- of the site. Despite protests from
Luisa d’Orleans, who hated both 1675. suaded him to repent shortly before the sculptor’s widow and a petition
her husband and Tuscany. From As a child, Anna Maria spent he died in July 1737. He confessed, of 1,000 signatures gathered by the
this unhappy union, three children much time with her uncle, Cardinal was given communion and granted Association of Tourist Guides, the
were born: Ferdinando in 1663, Leopold de’ Medici, who taught absolution by the pope. statue has not been moved.
Anna Maria Luisa in 1667 and her to love literature, art and music. Three months later, Anna Maria An exhibition dedicated to Anna
Giangastone in 1671. Margherita By the age of 16 she had developed and the Duke of Lorraine signed a Maria runs from until April 15,
into a witty, attractive girl who pact by which the paintings, sculp- 2007 in the Palatine Gallery of the
drew and painted, loved music and tures, manuscripts, jewels and Pitti Palace, where she lived, and in
had mastered Latin and most of all other precious possessions of the Villa Quiete, where she stayed
The English Bookstore in Florence the modern European languages. the Medici were to be conserved during the hottest months of sum-
She was her father’s favorite child, as possessions of the State, never mer. Hopefully, after this exhibition
and he wanted to arrange a great to be taken from Tuscany. They Anna Maria will have won the rec-
marriage for her. But her parents’ were to be used for public enjoy- ognition she deserves.
reputations had spread through the ment and to attract foreigner visi-
courts of Europe, and because of tors. Most of the works of art in
this she was refused by the princes the Uffizi, almost everything in the
of Spain and Portugal, and by Louis Pitti Palace, much of what is in the
XIV for the Dauphin of France. On Bargello, the Laurentian Library After spending five vacations as a
June 5, 1691 she married the wid- and the Medici Chapels in the guest at the Pensione Pitti Palace,
The Little Big Cook Book
pp. 976, €15 €12
Carla Bardi (Ed.)
ower Johann Wilhelm II, Elector church of San Lorenzo (including Mary Ann Pinto moved to Florence
Palatine, and went to live in Dues- Michelangelo’s statues) are only in l971 and married the manager.
seldorf. Anna Maria was a devoted part of Anna Maria’s legacy. She helped him run the hotel until
wife and mourned her husband they retired in October 1991.
For centuries most Florentines, Her recollections of those years is
when he died in 1716. A year later, historians and tourists have over-
she returned to Florence, bringing recorded in Diary of an Italian Inn-
looked the lady who is responsible keeper’s Wife, which she is preparing
back many paintings that she had for this city’s incredible artistic
acquired in Germany. She was wel- for publication.
patrimony. The only reminders of
comed joyously by Cosimo, who her existence were a few meters of
had not seen her for 27 years. street leading to the Uffizi along
f
10%thof
Since none of his children had the Arno and a portrait on the
is produced an heir, Cosimo tried to ground floor of the Uffizi. Then,
with n*
coupo resolve the problem of succession in 1945, the then mayor of Flor-
to the Tuscan domain before his ence Gaetano Pieraccini, a great
ANIMALS
ANIMALS
death in 1723, but without success. admirer of Anna Maria, launched
The Little Big Book of Animals
In 1731, the matter seemed to be set- a contest for a statue of her. Raffa-
tled to the satisfaction of the major ello Salimbeni won, but he did not
powers of Europe. Even Giangas-
The Little Big Book of
complete the statue until 1971. It
tone was pleased with the choice of was temporarily placed at the foot
Don Carlos, the second son of Eliz- of a back staircase in the Pitti Pal-
pp. 976, €15 €12
abeth Farnese and King Phillip V of ace, awaiting a decision about its
Spain. The situation then changed, permanent location. Finally the
Various Authors
and Don Carlos received the king- statue was placed at the base of the
dom of Naples and Two Sicilies to campanile of San Lorenzo (which
rule instead. The state of Lorraine Anna Maria had commissioned) �����������������������������
went to France, and the Duke of and unveiled on February 18, 1995,
Lorraine, to compensate him for the 252nd anniversary of her death. �������������������������������
Mon thru Sun: 9am–7.30pm his loss, was given Tuscany. While this sounds like a suitable
via de’ Neri, 32 r - Florence ��������������������
(near the Uffizi Gallery) Giangastone’s conduct, which position, the truth of the matter is ���������������������
tel. +39 055 238 24 56 had always been deplorable, con- that the market stalls in the street
literally hide the statue. Nor do the �������������������
tinued to degenerate rapidly. He
*DISCOUNT APPLIES TO ABOVE TITLES ONLY
Life in Italy 19
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Culture & CUSTOMS
The night the bridges came falling down
When World War II ravaged Florence
by Deirdre Pirro
R
umours were rife all over the
city. Many said the Anglo-
American troops had already
reached the outskirts of the city.
However, one thing was certain. On raised $100,000 abroad, by the Flo-
the afternoon of August 3, 1944, the rentines who contributed $30,000
German High Command in Flor- and by the Italian government,
ence had the following ordinance which added a final $350,000.
displayed on the street corners: So the next time you cross Ponte
Beginning from this moment, it is Santa Trinità or wander along Por
prohibited for anyone to leave their Santa Maria, via dei Bardi, Borgo
homes and walk in the streets or San Jacopo, or via Guicciardini,
piazzas of the City of Florence. All look up at the mishmash of archi-
the windows, even those in cellars, tectural styles in the buildings there
together with the entrance and hall- and spare a thought for the night
ways of houses, shall remain closed they blew up the bridges.
day and night. The population is
advised to stay in their cellars, and
Porta Romana, and the battle to quarry in the Boboli Gardens that Deirdre Pirro is an international
where they do not have one, to go to lawyer who lives and works in
a church or other big building. The liberate Florence began and lasted Ammannati had used. The new
bridge took three years to complete Florence. Apart from the law, her
patrols of the German armed forces until the end of the month when the interests include modern Italian
have been ordered to shoot at any- city was finally freed. and was inaugurated in 1958. history and the history of gastronomy.
one who is found on the street or In his book and photographic The work was paid for by a citi- She can be contacted at:
who appears at the windows. record entitled 50 War-Damaged zens’ committee headed by the art ddpirro@gmail.com
By dusk, the city was com- Monuments of Italy (published in historian Bernard Berenson, which
pletely deserted. That night five of 1946), Emilio Lavagnini looks at
the then six bridges crossing the these events that ravaged Italy’s
Arno—Ponte Santa Trinità, Ponte artistic heritage. He maintains that
delle Grazie, Ponte della Vittoria, Ponte Santa Trinità was probably
Ponte della Carraia and the Ponte ‘the most important piece of archi-
di Ferro—were all blown up, effec- tecture, from the point of view of
tively cutting the city in two. art, that was destroyed by the war
Only Ponte Vecchio was spared. in Italy’.
Some say it was considered too The first Ponte Santa Trinità had
fragile to support the weight of been constructed in 1252. The origi-
Allied tanks; others believed it was nal structure was replaced between
because Adolf Hitler had admired 1566 and 1569 by the bridge built
it so much on his visit to Florence by Bartolomeo Ammanati, based
in 1938. Nonetheless, to block the on a design by Michaelangelo, and
passage giving access to and from adorned, at its two ends, by marble
Ponte Vecchio, the two neighbour- statues representing the four seasons.
hoods leading up to it, on both sides After the war, it was rebuilt,
of the river, including Por Santa according to Lavagnini, by using
Maria, via dei Bardi, Borgo San every element of the original bridge
Jacopo, and via Guicciardini were that could be ‘fished out of the Arno’.
also mined and blown up. This was done by damming the river.
An old friend of mine, Pietro B. Several pieces were immediately
vividly remembers his mother tell- recuperated while others remained
ing him that the Germans had given in the river’s depths for years. The
residents in these areas four hours statue of the Primavera for example,
to leave their homes. At the time, remained headless until 1961, when
his family lived in an apartment in the head was finally found and
one of the famous antique towers restored to its rightful owner.
in Borgo San Jacopo. Believing this The reconstruction project was
measure to be merely a temporary entrusted to flamboyant architect
one, his father created a make- Riccardo Gizdulich. He researched
shift safe which he cemented into photographs and the original draw-
the wall to hide what was left of ings left by Ammannati. Studying
the family jewels until they could the fragments dragged up from the
return. Little did they know that bottom of the river, Gizdulich con-
all that would be left the following cluded that the original masons
morning was rubble. must have used special chiselling
In fact, the explosion of the mines and cutting implements when build-
began at eight o’clock at night on ing the bridge. He designed similar
August 3 and lasted right through tools and had them made. A group
the night, the worst blast being of artisans then painstakingly fitted
heard at four in the morning. The together the old pieces of the bridge
next day, the Allied troops reached with new stone taken from the same
20 Life in Italy
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
Travel & LEISURE
Seeing in the rain ‘Barga is a movie set of steep,
dark streets lined with houses
Bagni di Lucca and Barga played ‘Misty for Me’ whose earth-colored walls,
in quiet pinks, gentle browns
Barga Cathedral from afar and compliant grays, suggest
by Samuel Jay Keyser they haven’t been con-
structed so much as grown
from the hillside.’
T
he best thing about Bagni di Lucca, north-
east of Lucca, is not what it is but what it
recalls. Stare into the vapors rising from
the 120-degree hot springs and you’ll see images
of another epoch: Byron and Shelley taking the
Inside, a few euro in a coin box illuminated
waters and writing home to urge Tennyson to do
a 15-foot-high marble pulpit sitting on columns
likewise, German poet Heinrich Heine and Irish
supported by a pair of patient lions. Above
novelist Charles Lever feeding their muses and
the altar was an imposing 12th-century, multi-
perhaps their metabolisms. This spa town above
colored wood carving of St. Christopher, with
the rushing river Serchio is worth a walk around.
the Christ child portrayed as a miniature king,
Once you cross its Ponte a Serraglio, you’ll be on
crown and all, sitting up properly on his shoul-
the road up to another, slower, mistier, mossier
der. In the chapel to the right is a pair of Della
world of sulfur fumes and sleepy hollows. It was
Robbias worth the walk in the rain. In the cha-
November when my friends and I were there.
pel to the left are two ordinary paintings, one to
One of the springs was closed for the season.
the Glory of the Madonna by the school of Sim-
Hardly anyone was around. We had the road to
one Pignoni and one a grisly beheading scene
Bagni Caldi and the adjacent Stabilimento Jean
of St. John the Baptist by Baccio Ciarpi—and
Varraud all to ourselves—ourselves and a black
the walk-away best in show, a crucifixion by an
cat that stalked us long enough to be bored by
unknown maestro of Barga hung inconspicu-
our company and seek excitement elsewhere in
ously on the chapel wall. (But then I’ve always
a bit of string.
been a pushover for unknown masters.)
Near the top of the hill is the early-20th-cen-
The walk back down the paved hillside was
tury Stabilimento Jean Varraud, a labyrinth of Fifteen kilometers away is the town the
slick. We stepped carefully to avoid losing our
steam baths, massage rooms, exfoliation cham- guidebooks say is the prettiest in the Garfag-
footing. Every now and then we would stop and
bers and swimming pools. We crept in fully nana. They’ll get no argument from me. Barga
stare upward at a corner of the town where the
clothed and unannounced and somehow man- is a movie set of steep, dark streets lined with
roofs cut into the sky to make a collage of tile
aged to explore the establishment thoroughly, houses whose earth-colored walls, in quiet
and gutter spouts. When a town begins to paint
ignored by chunky men in terrycloth robes and pinks, gentle browns and compliant grays, sug-
its own pictures, you know you’re in a special
flip-flops who passed by like wraiths before they gest they haven’t been constructed so much as
place. See Barga whatever the weather, but
disappeared behind unmarked doors, leaving in grown from the hillside. I say all this having
make a special effort to see it in the rain.
their wake a puff of sulfur. We felt like Dante seen Barga in a pouring rain.
exploring Purgatory. If ever a town had its head in the clouds, it’s
More evocative even than the Stabilimento’s Barga. The day was gray when we arrived, grayer
springs or its long history of ‘taking the waters’ when we stopped for lunch in a fine little restau-
is its casino, now a preserved room filled with rant just inside the city walls and, after linguine
gaming tables, where clients came to relieve the al tartufo and a defensible local wine, pouring
tedium of sitting in the grotta a vapore and after- with rain. The 12th-century Duomo, perched at
wards lying face-down in a white sheet and an the very top of the town, is the jewel in Barga’s
uncomfortable blanket, breathing in. One table, crown. We marched Duomo-ward, never mind-
covered with images of cards, is monogrammed ing that the rain came harder with each step,
with the name Caribbean Spud—which sounds and wave after wave of water washed down the
more like a potato than a card game. The walls tilted streets under our feet. The piazza in front
of the casino have been scraped to reveal layers of the Duomo could have afforded a stunning
of yesterdays. It is a ghostly room, well suited to view of the Garfagnana landscape. But as we
the bath-robed spirits that flit from bath to bed looked into a gray mist in tutti direzione, it was Bagni di Lucca
without so much as a buongiorno. as if the Duomo were floating in a cloudy sea.
EXHIBIT
Vincenzo Marino
January 1st - February 28th 2007
restaurant - pizzeria
CONTE UGOLINO
via senese, 17 d-e-f
Firenze ph. 055 22 21 27
Life in Italy 21
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
The ARTS
Making connections through theater
Day of memory takes center stage at FITC event
by P.M. Louis
tance of studying the Holocaust
Synagogue of Florence
today. In this way, the artistic direc-
tors of FITC hope that this event
will be a launching pad for creating
original plays throughout the years,
utilizing Cieri’s model, with the
children of Florence in order to tell
the stories that unfolded in Tuscany
during that historical period.
‘This use of theatre as a tool for Sala Sadun,
education helps it become a shared Synagogue of Florence
community event which examines via L.C. Farini, 4
the very human intricacies of choice 3pm – staged reading;
and action that occurred during 5pm – reception;
the Holocaust. It is an opportu- 5:30pm – panel discussion
nity for everyone—performers and
audience members alike—to con- Entry is free, but seating is ex-
front their own feelings, opinions tremely limited and reservations
and beliefs about this particular are strongly recommended. For
human tragedy not only as a his-
‘T
heatre is a powerful and truths to enhance the program of reservations and further informa-
tory but also as a continual cycle tion: info@florencetheatre.com or
unique art form because Holocaust Studies at Yavneh Acad- that occurs and reoccurs each day
its essential nature is based emy in New Jersey. Each year she 055 239 9949.
on this planet’.
on gathering people together to tell works with 13-year-old students
stories, hear them, see them and to adapt a non-fiction work into
feel them. The stories we feel most drama and present the play to the
deeply are the ones that explore our community. And each year, Cieri
collective history. They question begins the journey of reacquaint-
and expose the human condition ing herself with the horrors of
and often celebrate the connecting the Shoah, the power of faith and
points between us’, says the Flor- human beings’ capacity to become
ence International Theatre Compa- villains, survivors or heroes in the
ny’s co-artistic director Bari Hoch- face of unimaginable odds.
wald, in reference to FITC’s newest ‘There are many ways to learn’,
project. A unique mix of drama Cieri says. ‘I believe that Yavneh’s
and history, the project foresees Holocaust Studies program is one
an annual program that recognizes of the best available because it goes
theatre as a vital way to keep the beyond academia, enhancing learn-
conversation of Holocaust events ing through the arts. The Holocaust
alive for all members of the commu- play is a vital aspect of the syn-
nity and spark their participation in thesis of knowledge and a kinetic
Il Giorno della Memoria. experience which translates into a
FITC begins this journey in asso- performance by very real people.
ciation with the Jewish community Each year, my eighth grade class
of Florence and will be creating an steps into the shoes of men and
entire afternoon dedicated to cre- women like Krystyna Chiger, who
ativity, education and community as a child went into the sewers of
on February 11th. ‘We cannot forget L’vov with her family, where they
the Holocaust because it was both sought refuge for 14 months. This is
beyond imagination and within the unique and meaningful process
the depth of human capacity’, says of history coming to life through
Hochwald. ‘That is why my co- drama’.
artistic director, Aaron Craig, and I At 3pm on February 11, audi-
are committed to finding a way to ences can witness the experience
develop this project. We are looking of Krystyna Chiger in Sewers of
forward to Dominique Cieri’s assis- L’vov. The play was written by the
tance in creating the event in the students at Yavneh, under the guid-
most comprehensive way possible’. ance of Cieri and will be performed
Dominique Cieri, New Jersey by community members and FITC
Playwright Fellow and educational artists here in Florence. Involv-
consultant for FITC, has been a key ing over 40 people, 10–70 years of
player in making the company’s age, expatriate and Italian, as well
goals a reality. Co-author of the as international students, the play
book From the Attic, to the Class- will be performed in both English
room to the Stage—The Holocaust, and Italian. The drama with be fol-
Cieri has spent the last 10 years lowed by a reception, and the event
using her love of theatre and her will conclude with a panel of lead-
passion for telling deep human ing educators discussing the impor-
22 News & Views
Thursday 8 February 2007 www.theflorentine.net
The ARTS
Stark contrasts
Photo exhibit captures trials of Great Depression
by Richard Keenan
T
he current exhibit of the photographs by Walker Evans at the Museo smiling, unafraid of
Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia offers a view of cultural history the future, these
largely forgotten by the current generation, for whom the United happy faces are in
States has always been a formidable world power. The Great Depression stark contrast with
of the 1930s, which lasted the better part of a decade and ended only with the faces of ten-
America’s entry into World War II, saw much of America’s rural popula- ant farmers and
tion struggling to subsist without adequate food, housing or jobs. These sharecroppers, who are clearly malnourished, poorly clothed and certainly
photographs first came to public attention in Let Us Now Praise Famous unsmiling. Sharecropper Family (1936), taken in Hale Country, Alabama,
Men, the book Evans created thanks to a collaborative effort with James depicts a family of four—a man, two women and a child. Clearly worn down
Agee. Agee’s text juxtaposed with Evan’s stark, black and white photo- by the circumstances of barely subsistent living, they remain stoic and reso-
graphs offers eloquent testimony to those troubled times. lute nonetheless.
Most of the photographs in the current exhibit were taken between Perhaps the most poignant photograph in the exhibit is Child’s Grave
1935 and 1937, when Evans and Agee were traveling through the south- (1936), depicting a simple mound of sandy soil with a set of construction
ern United States, subsidized by the Farm Security Administration, one of stones at either end and a small dinner plate placed in the center. This
the many government agencies created by President Franklin Roosevelt to nameless child, otherwise forgotten by history, is effectively captured by
address the problems facing the American economy. One noteworthy work Evan’s photographic sensitivity and perception. The exhibit, rounded out by
is Penny Picture Display (1936), a collage of photographs taken by the various scenes from other parts of Depression-era America, includes several
machines commonly found at carnivals and amusement arcades. There are noteworthy photographs of the Brooklyn Bridge published in 1994.
some fifty photographs in the collage of men, women and children. Well-fed,
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Classified Ads 23
www.theflorentine.net Thursday 8 February 2007
Classified ADS
Housing For Sale Business for Sale Help Wanted Leisure & Vacation
Immobili vendita Attività commerciali Offerte di lavoro Tempo libero e vacanze
Special apartment with roof ter- Total Liquidation Sale! We sold Concierge needed for high-end trav- Il Salotto di Firenze B&B located in
race. Overlooking the Arno and in the Dress Shop! 50%-70% off fin- ellers to central and northern Tuscany. splendid Via Roma at the corner with
prestige location of Florence. 62sqm est French and Italian collections, all Looking for mature, highly motivated, the magnificent Piazza Duomo, includes
seasons. Sola Moda 51/r Via dei Neri, professional person to be part of inter- 4 bedrooms and 2 welcoming single
plus terrace, mezzanine with double
Centro Florence. January 29-March national team. Must be fluent in English rooms. Private, intimate and reserved
bed and skylight, One full bedroom
31. Present this ad, subtract 5%, one and Italian, have flexible schedule and in a completely refurnished artistic
with large wardrobe and bathroom, building in the heart of Florence. For
to a customer. excellent interpersonal skills. Familiarity
lounge, kitchen and library. Rare information and reservations call: +39
with region essential - travel required.
opportunity. Ref: Palestro. Call Jud- 055.218347 or +39 348.1590197.
Children’s clothing manufacturer Please send letter of interest and
ieanne Colusso 335.839.0712 - resume to ItalyConcierge@hotmail. info@ilsalottodifirenze.it
looking to sell business. Thirty-year-
info@coloursoftuscany.com com.
old establishment produces clothing
for children from ages 1 to 12 and is Panoramic colonial house in the hills
Loft For Sale in Prato. 2 lofts near equipped with the necessary equip- American University in Florence of Chianti, only 15 km from Florence.
historic centre, each 137 sqm, ideal ment for production. The company has Italy, is currently accepting applica- Surrounded by a large park and olive
for home office. We can show layout a large client portfolio with buyers in tions for Italian language, studio art grove, swimming pool. 4-6 person flats
and location. For information, e-mail Italy and abroad. For more information and fashion design instructors. CVs for rent for brief periods, completely
marco@agilelogica.it send an email to gio.giu@gmail.com should be submitted by email to furnished. Quiet, family-style atmos-
rolsen@santareparata.org phere. Landlords available on site for
House Hunting Jobs Wanted any needs. Tel. 333.2203265, e-mail
Cerco lavoro femanesc@tin.it
cerco casa
I am looking for a home-based Private Lessons
American professor and family is
seeking a 2 or 3 bedroom furnished
or internet job, or part time employ- Lezioni private Services
ment in Florence. I am Spanish, and I Italian individual lessons in Flor- Servizi
apartment in the Oltranrno from April ence. Sharpen your grammar to
am English speaking and have good Professional Computer Consultant
1 through mid-June. Must have ADSL enjoy conversation. Fluent English,
knowledge of Italian. Please contact: can fix any PC related problems. Can
internet. Call Ken at 055/282176 or Japanese, French spoken. Call Alberto
maria_fernandezp@hotmail.com or work anywhere in Tuscany and Umbria.
email newfield@hawaii.rr.com and his Japanese wife Fumiko, tel. English and Italian. Call TuscanyPc-
number : 3207262753.
055-475152, www.azlanguage.it - Clinic +39.334.1085438.
Housing for Rent Young Canadian female (24) seeks info@azlanguage.it
Immobili in affitto employments. Fluent in Polish and Computer SOS will solve all compu-
Room for rent in city centre. Shar- English language, studying Italian. Ceramic classes. Paint your own ren- ter/Internet related problems, includ-
ing with male. Apartment with terrace. EU passport, degree in Business and aissance’s style pottery - Short and ing ADSL. Will come to your home.
Marketing. Strong organization skills, long-term courses for beginners and Speaks and reads English fluently.
450 euro per month. Available mid
experience in office work, teaching, advanced. Call Enzo +39 339 131 Corrado 320.0932811
February. 3403710786
PR. cell 334-105-2907. 2990. www.florenceartstudio.it
Charming one bedroom apart- Personals
British mother-tongue, CTEFL certi- Body Language Pilates/Yoga
ment. Modern kitchen, bathroom and Personali
small balcony. Recently renovated fied, with 8 yrs experience in teaching, Studio 30+ level-specific Pilates
34-y-o Italian male is looking for a
and fully furnished including washing seeks employment from mid-February. groups/privates weekly: D.Clark
single room in apartment with non-
machine. Close to park and piazza Please contact Victoria 333.3673970 335.790.4029. YOGA Thu, Fri, Sun:
smoking English speaker(-s) to start
in tranquil area. Internet connection victoriainfantino@yahoo.it Lisa, 392.803.4271. American instruc-
February 1. Max euro 350/month.
available. Euro 650 pm. Ref: Clau- tors, near Centro.
Please call after 6 p.m. 339.131.0695,
dia. Call Judieanne 335.839.0712 - A woman for all seasons. Recep- Walter.
info@coloursoftuscany.com tionist, secretary, group chaperon, Private oil painting lessons in Eng-
English teacher, English to Italian lish near Teatro Goldoni. Still life
I’m Italian and want to improve
Quality one bedroom apartment translator. Excellent knowledge of vari- subject, canvas, paints and easel sup-
my English I am looking for an Eng-
with terrace. Lounge kitchen and ous PC programs. Seeking employ- plied. All levels welcome. For more
lish mother tongue for conversation
dining, plus one bathroom, bedroom ment also part time. Pls call Ernestina information please contact Cathy at
exchange. Call Pietro 3476485534 or
and cantina. Walk out and see the Giusti: phone 055-222020 or email 055.2207171 / 338.1499392
write piero_gatto@iol.it
Duomo. Internet connection avail- ernestinagiusti@yahoo.it.
able. Euro 1200 pm. Possible for New Year’s Resolution #2: Continue
I’m Italian and want to improve
long or short term. Ref: Alessandro. Part-qualified accountant, seeks Exercise Program! Yoga provides fit-
my English I am looking for an Eng-
Call Judieanne 335.839.0712 - employment, with experience both ness benefits. Feeling stressed? Fea-
lish/American mother tongue for
info@coloursoftuscany.com in practice and in private business. turing also “Office Yoga”. Body Lan-
conversation exchange. Call Cristina
Native English speaker. Please con- guage. 392.803.4271
333.3891682
A large room with private bathroom tact vanessacmurphy@hotmail.com.
with use of kitchen & sitting room in a Expert craftsman offers individual
large & bright flat equipped with every Young woman (32), German native or group classes in English or Ital- Household items for sale
comfort (also for very short period, speaker, excellent English and Italian, ian. Introduction to chiselling and Vendita oggetti personali
close to piazza Gavinana), write to elia. degree in English literature and art his- embossing-theory and practice. A selection of good books in Eng-
dellachiesa@dada.it tory, Italian permit of stay, seeks part- Introduction to technical design. lish - paperbacks and hard covers
time or full-time position, strong organ- Call Fabrizio 338.5060720 or write -contemporaries, classics, and chil-
Costa San Giorgio Apartments izational skills, experience in office acquafresca69@hotmail.com dren’s--great book club selections--
offers for rent 8 quality apartments work and work with foreign students, 1 to 3 Euros each. Contact joseph.
in Florence, in front of Ponte Vec- cell: 3888496977 Leather Crafting Classes. Scuola del michael@alice.it or 338/6792271.
chio, renovated and furnished with Cuoio offers short-term (3 hours/1-
style. Small and large apartments are I am looking for a home-based and/ 2 days) & long-term (1 wk to 10 Bargain sales: Sangiorgio dishwasher
equipped with all comforts. Short or or internet job. Am English speaking mths) individual courses and classes almost unused (guarantee till 2010),
long term, minimum for 3 days. Call and have good knowledge of Italian. under a Master Leather Craftsman colonial style wicker sofa perfect con-
055.2344293 or 334.3744268 (sig. Please contact paula_genn@yahoo. inside the Monastery of Santa Croce, ditions, Samsung DVD reader, iron.
ra Maria) - costasangiorgioflorence com via San Giuseppe 5 (thru the gar- Contact: vstove@yahoo.it
@costasangiorgio.it -www.costasan- den). Enquiries: tel. 055.244.533 or
giorgio.it English-speaking female, having info@leatherschool.com. For more Bianchi women’s touring bicycle
good knowledge of Italian, looking for info. visit www.leatherschool.com (Spillo k 20), 7005 aluminium frame, 3
part-time employment in administra- for 7 Shimano gears, with tachometer,
tion. Kindly contact 340.1447898 Would you like to learn how to write helmet, tools, many extras. Euro 200.
short stories and novels? Experienced Brian Marble: 333.3738322
creative writing professor offers inspi-
rational private lessons. 329.2945876