Chicago Daily Tribune

Chicago Daily Tribune



The Chicago Daily Tribune was not the oldest newspaper in the city, but soon became the

most respected – due largely to the leadership role it played in promoting abolitionist

causes in general, and the presidential candidacy of Abraham Lincoln in particular. In

1847 the Tribune was founded, and its most prestigious early editor, John Locke Scripps,

acquired a 1/3 interest in the paper a year later. Under Scripps’ leadership, this

newspaper played an instrumental role in creating the Republican party that largely

replaced the Whigs, due to the weak Whig stance on issues related to slavery. Scripps

also was hired to be Lincoln’s official biographer during the presidential campaign of

1860.



The distinctive stance of the Tribune is manifest in the perspective of its coverage of the

Grand Excursion. There is somewhat less of a festive air in its stories, and more of an

emphasis on the need for the old Northeast to cultivate the resources of the West, and

band together with the new Territory of Minnesota in anticipation of the wrath to come –

a kind of a premonition of the Civil War.



Microfilm of the Chicago Daily Tribune is available at the University of Minnesota

Wilson Library (UM). The following transcriptions are by Mark Vander Schaaf, based

on photocopies by Mark and Elizabeth Vander Schaaf.



TABLE OF CONTENTS:



Thursday, June 1, 1854 p. 3

Excursionists begin arriving in Chicago. Special excursion painting to be on display at

the Tremont House.



Friday, June 2, 1854 p. 3

Ex-President Fillmore is on his way to Chicago to join the excursion.



Saturday, June 3, 1854 p. 4

Ex-President Fillmore is now in Chicago. Thurlow Weed, the distinguished editor of the

Albany Evening Journal, is also in Chicago for the excursion.



Monday, June 5, 1854 p. 5

Partial list of distinguished excursionists.



Tuesday Morning, June 6, 1854 p. 6

Departure of the excursion from Chicago.



Wednesday Morning, June 7, 1854 p. 6

Arrival of the excursion in Rock Island, and departure via riverboat for points north.



Thursday Morning, June 8, 1854 p. 7

Visit to Galena.

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Friday Morning, June 9, 1854 p. 13

Preparing to leave Rock Island for points north.



Saturday Morning, June 10, 1854 p.14

Excursionists are due back in Chicago this evening.



Monday Morning, June 12, 1854 p. 15

Outsiders wrote good things about Chicago during the excursion. Reports of the return

of the excursion to Chicago.



Tuesday Morning, June 13, 1854 p.17

Visit to Saint Paul and Minnesota Territory.



Friday Morning, June 16, 1854 p. 27

Fillmore journeyed to St. Louis. Silver pitcher given to captain of Golden Era.



Saturday Morning, June 24, 1854 p. 28

Mississippi River poem especially for the Chicago Tribune.



Monday Morning, June 26, 1854 p. 29

The delights of a railroad excursion to Rock Island and Davenport.









2

Thursday Morning, June 1, 1854



The Rock Island and St. Anthony Excursion.



The guests from the Eastern cities, who have been invited to attend this celebration, will

probably begin to arrive here to-day, and continue to arrive until Saturday morning. The

whole number invited is about one thousand, and our citizens will now have an

opportunity, which we have no doubt they will gladly embrace, of exhibiting that cordial

and hospitable spirit which we know they possess. The Committee of Invitation have

done all in their power to prepare for the reception of their guests at the hotels of this

city, but as all of these are, even now, crowded to their utmost capacity, they will have to

depend upon the kindness of our citizens to aid them in their arrangements to entertain

the coming company. Those who wish to do so will please communicate immediately

with John H. Kinzie, at the Lake House.



The excursion train will leave this city, at 8 o’clock Monday morning, arriving at Rock

Island at 4 o’clock P.M., when the passengers will go directly on board the steamers, and

take possession of their respective State Rooms as named on their tickets. Porters will be

in readiness on board the Boats to take up the checks and deliver the Baggage for each

Boat. Dinner will be served on board the boats soon after the arrival of the Train. And

after a display of fire works from the fort at Rock Island in the evening, the Boats will

start on their trip up the River and return to Rock Island on Saturday morning.



The Great West



Or, “A trip from Chicago to St. Louis,” by Railroad and Steamboat,--Monsieur Andrieu’s

Great Painting,--is to be exhibited at Tremont Hall, on Friday and Saturday evenings, of

this week. We need scarcely say to our citizens that it will be a rare treat, for they know

that Mons. A. is the most talented artist in the country, and canvass, touched by his

pencil, is made to reflect life-like views of everything he attempts to copy.





Friday Morning, June 2, 1854



Ex-President Fillmore



This gentleman left Buffalo on Monday evening last for the West. It is understood that

he is among the invited guests to leave this city on Monday next, on the Excursion to

Rock Island and St. Anthony’s Falls.



Mr. Fillmore is expected to arrive at the Tremont House to-morrow evening.









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Saturday Morning, June 3, 1854



Ex-President Fillmore



This distinguished gentleman has been stopping in our city since Thursday evening, and

will probably remain until Monday morning, when he leaves to join the excursion to St.

Anthony’s Falls, via the Rock Island Railroad and the Mississippi river. We believe this

is the second time Chicago has had the visit of an ex-President,--the first being Mr. Van

Buren. Mr. Fillmore has never been so far West before, and we doubt not he will not

return until he had his curiosity fully satisfied.



Yesterday afternoon, Mr. Fillmore was called upon, at the Tremont House, by large

numbers of our citizens. With the exception of his support of the Fugitive slave law, the

general policy of his administration was very popular here. Like many of our best

citizens, and good men elsewhere, we doubt not that he was induced to hope that the

“Compromise measures” of 1850 were to be a settlement of all slavery agitation. More

far seeing men, who had studied more deeply, and better understood, the nature of the

institution of slavery, knew very well that such hopes would never be realized. As the

legitimate sequence of that Compromise, we have the Nebraska bill, and the country

rocked, as with a tempest, from the centre to its circumference, by attempts to carry into

execution the provisions of the Fugitive Slave Law,--a law than which the Algerines

never enacted one more diabolical in all of its features.



Mr. Fillmore has recently been visiting various States in the Union, and has been

received in a manner befitting the distinguished position he occupied. We trust our

citizens, and the people of the West, wherever he may visit, will not be wanting in those

acts of courtesy and respect which the Western people are every where celebrated for.

They are deeply his debtor for his efforts, as a member of Congress, on behalf of Western

harbor and river improvements, and also to open and enlarge the capacity of that great

channel of Western Commerce,--the Erie Canal,--Mr. F. is not starched with dignity, but

is one of the most affable gentlemen that has ever graced the Presidential chair, and it

will be a source of sincere gratification to him to meet his fellow citizens and pass those

greetings which are pleasant to give and receive.



Thurlow Weed.



Thurlow Weed, the distinguished and veteran editor of the Albany Evening Journal,--the

Nestor of the American Press,--is in our city, and stopping at the Tremont. We believe

he purposes accompanying the excursion to St. Anthony’s Falls.









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Mr. Weed is one of the oldest—if not the oldest—editors in the United States, and he has

also been the most consistent and sagacious. He has never faltered in the Whig harness,

but has worked steadily and hopefully for the advancement and success of the measures

of the Whig party. While other prominent Whigs were led astray, from the ancient

platform of the party, and gave their influence to the support of sectional institutions that

were antagonistic to that higher humanity which the Whig party was aiming to develope,

Mr. W. stood firm to his post, like a faithful sentinel on the watchtower of liberty. It

must be flattering to him, as it is gratifying to his friends, independent of important

political considerations, to see how truly events are shaping themselves, as he predicted,

and his principles vindicated through the instrumentality of the acts of those who have

long aspersed his motives.





Monday Morning, June 5, 1854



Distinguished Visitors



The following gentlemen are in our city, to join the excursion party, which leaves here at

8 o’clock this morning for Rock Island and Minnesota Territory:



Hon. John A. Rockwell of Connecticut.

Hon. Alva Hunt, New York.

Hon. Roger S. Baldwin, New Haven.

Gen’l John A. Granger, Canandaigua.

Rufus H. King, Albany.

Frank Townsend, do

Hon. John C. Wright, Schenectady.

Mr. Cooley, New York

Isaac Edwards, Esq., Albany

J. H. Ten Eyck, Esq., do

Edward Keating, Esq., do

Bishop Kemper.

W.P. Williams, Esq., Stonington

V.P. Douw, Albany.

H.T. Tuckerman, N.Y.

Prof. B. Silliman, Sen., Yale College

Hon. W.W. Boardman, New Haven.

Hon. Charles J. McCurdy, (late Minister to Austria,) of Lyme, Conn.

Hon. D.B. St. John, Albany, N.Y.

James Brewster, Esq., New Haven.

Henry Hotchkiss, Esq., do

Ezra C. Reed, Esq., do

Hon. Moses Kimball, Boston.

Hon. A.H. Bullock, Worcester

Hon. George Dwight, Springfield, Mass.

Hon. George Bliss, do

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George B. Morris, Esq., do

Hon. A.C. Flagg, Comptroller of the State of New York

George Bliss, Jr., Esq., Springfield, Mass.

Rev. Samuel Osgood, D.D. do

Judge Parker, Cambridge, Mass.

Judge Parker, Albany.

Ex-Gov. Washington Hunt, New York.

Hon. John A. Dix, do

Hon. George Bancroft, do

Hon. Thomas Russell, Boston, Mass.

Hon. James M. Stone, Charlestown, Mass.

Dr. George E. Cooper, U.S. Army

Hon. John L Mason, New York.

Rev. E.P. Stimson, Castleton, New York.

E.D. Litchfield, Esq., do

Hon. John Stryker, Rome, N.Y.

Gen’l O Clark, Sandy Hill, N.Y.





Tuesday Morning, June 6, 1854



The Excursion Party.



Those who had been assembling in this city since Thursday last, to join the Excursion to

Rock Island and St. Anthony’s Falls, started on their trip at 8 ½ o’clock yesterday

morning.—There were two trains, each containing nine first-class passenger cars—the

best on the Road—drawn by two powerful locomotives, which were tastefully decked

with flowers, flags and streamers, and the entire party appeared in the best of spirits. The

cars were all filled, with the exception of three, which were reserved for the invited

guests along the line of the Road. There were full 900 persons in both trains, included in

which were many ladies. The party is the most brilliant that ever assembled in the West,

consisting of an Ex-President, Statesmen, Historians, Diplomatists, Poets, and the best

Editorial talent in the country.





Wednesday Morning, June 7, 1854



The Rock Island Excursion.



Quite a number of the excursionists who left here for Rock Island, returned last evening,

their health and business engagements preventing them from going further. Among the

number was Judge Oakley and lady, of New York; Hon. Charles Butler, of do; and Count

Gerowski. We learn that the ride to Rock Island was highly enjoyed by the entire party,

and all were most enthusiastic in their admiration of the appearance of the country, and

the cities and towns through which the road passes. The shower in the afternoon was

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very refreshing, laying the dust and cooling the air, which added to the pleasure of the

trip very materially. Refreshments were furnished on board the trains and no delay or

accident occurred to mar the completeness of the arrangements.



The train reached Rock Island just previous to 4 o’clock in the afternoon, being a few

minutes in advance of their time. Five of the best river boats were in waiting to receive

the guests, and an hour or more was occupied in getting the party and baggage on board,

when all set down to a most sumptous [sic] feast, which is represented as equal to the

best the most luxuriant Hotel in the country could furnish.



At 7 o’clock, the steamers put over to the Iowa shore. Ex-President Fillmore was called

out by the citizens of Davenport, and made a short speech. At dark, some splendid

fireworks were displayed from Fort Armstrong, in the middle of the river, and those

together with the appearance of the five steamers lying at the opposite shore, each

brilliantly lighted up, made a most splendid sight from the shores of Rock Island, and

was viewed by thousands with the utmost delight.



At 10 o’clock the boats started up the river, in single file, for Minnesota Territory. They

will probably reach St. Paul this evening.



Many of the invited guests from the East left their baggage in this city, and went on to

Rock Island, undecided whether to go further or not, but every thing on the river, and the

accommodations on board of the boats, were so tempting that more than two-thirds of

them preceeded [sic] on.



We are informed that by an an [sic] oversight of the person to whom the matter was

entrusted, that a large share of the tickets for accommodations on the steamers were left

behind, on Monday morning; and the neglect was not discovered till afternoon, when

they were forwarded by express train, reaching Rock Island just as the boats were

leaving. The difficulty was however remedied by the Committee of Arrangements at

Rock Island, and those who preceeded on the trip suffered nothing from the mishap.





Thursday Morning, June 8, 1854



The Great Railroad and Steamboat Excursion:

Galena—Its Lead Mines and other Resources.



We left Rock Island about 7 o’clock on Monday evening, and crossed the Mississippi

River to its sister city, Davenport, where we remained some three hours, receiving the

visits of her citizens, and viewing the display of a very beautiful exhibition of fire-works

from the island, got up in honor of the excursion. About 10 o’clock the fleet once more

got under weigh, and we left the city behind in the gallant style, the War Eagle leading

off, and the Golden Era, with Ex-President Fillmore and such bringing up the rear. Until

about midnight the moon was most delightful, perfectly clear, and with a most refreshing

breeze from the cool waters of the stream. Shortly after midnight a grand thunder storm

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came off, and wound up the festivities of the excursion, in a manner at once peculiar and

sublime. We can fancy but few more impressive scenes than that of a thunder storm, at

midnight on the bosom of the Mississippi. Impenetrable darkness enshrouded us, and

nothing could be seen of our fleet of seven steamers, save the lurid glare of their furnaces

shining upon the agitated waves, and their red and blue lights suspended from their bows.

A sudden flash of vivid lightning would illumine the entire scene for a moment, and then

as suddenly would it be blotted from view. At such moments, so intense was the light,

and so vivid the impression produced, that each separate leaf upon the trees off shore,

each crevice in the bank, the form of each steamer, and even the countenance of those

upon their guards, could be seen as plainly as if printed upon a canvass. The storm lasted

but a few hours, and having exhausted its fury, fell into a dull and moaning tone, and

soon lulled us all into sweet and oblivious slumber.



When the morning dawned we found ourselves still moving up the river, and within a

few miles of Bellevue, Iowa. Passing this point, which is seven miles below the mouth

of Galena river, we began to accustom ourself [sic] to the new but extremely attractive

aspect which the country on either side of the river assumed. The banks of the

Mississippi here are quite low, but at a distance of a mile, perhaps, from the stream,

arises a series of hills or bluffs, clothed in living green, some of them covered with

timber and others as smooth as a shaven lawn. The country appeared to be but very

thinly settled along the banks of the river, but further back the population, we are told,

becomes more dense.



Entering the mouth of the Galena river, a most delightful stream, we proceeded up some

seven miles, when a voice from the upper deck announced that Galena was in sight.

Instantly all was in commotion and anxiety to obtain the first glimpse of this city, of

which so much had been said and anticipated. A bend in the river brought us into full

view of the city, and we were more than justified with the tout ensemble which presented

itself. Standing upon the deck, we could see the city, built upon her seven times seven

hills, and sending up her spires and steeples towards high Heaven, from the summit of

eminences, which, of themselves, were temples. As we neared the town, we were

greeted with a salute of artillery, the shouts of hundreds of the citizens who lines the

shores, and the waving of the white handkerchiefs and whiter hands of the fair ladies who

filled the windows and balconies, while from our steamers came strains of music and

answering plaudits of admiration.



The citizens of Galena, with a liberality and kindness which does them the most infinite

honor, had provided most liberally for our public reception; had procured a large number

of carriages which were placed at the disposal of strangers, and had provided a pic-nic

dinner in the woods for one thousand guests.



Galena is situated on both sides of the river of that name, and has a population of 10,000

souls. Built upon an arm of the Mississippi, it is thrown far enough inland to make it the

commercial centre of the mining country by which it is surrounded, and to enable it to

command, for all time, the trade the great staple therein produced. Its citizens claim for it

8

the advantage of being the virtual terminus of the Illinois Central Railroad, for, they

agree that at this point it first strikes navigable water, and here the competition between it

and a rival road with an actual terminus here, begins. This last road is the Chicago, St.

Charles and Mississippi Air [sic!]Line, now building. Both roads will be completed

within a year and a half, or two years, at the most. A third road is now contemplated by

Messrs. Farnam & Sheffield, the well known and energetic contractors to connect the

Rock Island Road, at Sheffield, with the Air Line at this place,--the completion of which

will put Galena in direct communication with the vast coal fields of the interior of the

State. A fourth road –the North Western—stretching from Tete des Mort, a point on the

west side of the Mississippi, opposite this city, to the Great Bend of the Minnesota, and

thence, prospectively, to a point of intersection with the Northern Pacific Road, along the

line of Gov. Steven’s survey, from St. Paul to Puget’s Sound, is attracting much

attention. A portion of this work will soon be put under contract, and when finished, will

pour in upon us the products of that beautiful and fertile country lying beyond the Father

of Waters. In this road the people of Galena are virtually interested; with their

accustomed liberality and energy, they will not fail to get it under way.



At present, the business of Galena, without aid from railroads, with only the advantages

growing out of her position, probably exceeds that of any other town of equal population

in the United States. Below, we append a table that gives a clear idea of her importance

as a mining town, in comparison with others by which she is surrounded:



Shipments of Lead from the Upper Miss during the season 1853, from March 21st

to December 1st.



Ports from whence shipped.

Shipped via the river. Pigs Pounds Value

From Galena.............

Dubuque......... [Not fully legible, but shows Galena to have much

Potosi............... more than half of all shipments]

Cassville..........

Buena Vista......

Shipped via the lakes....



Totals



In addition to the lead trade, the general commercial business of the city is without

parallel in the history of Western towns. The country, bordering on the Mississippi on

each side above this point, finds Galena the most eligible market for the sale of its

produce, and the purchase of needed supplies. Commercial men will appreciate the trade

of the city, when they are told that several houses are doing a legitimate business, each,

of $400,000 per annum.



As is well known the main dependence and wealth, as well for the future as for the

present and past, is the lead trade. The lead mines of this region include an area in the

Northwestern corner of Illinois, the Southwestern portion of Wisconsin, and the

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adjoining part of Iowa, of nearly six thousand square miles. In Illinois a part of each of

the counties of Carroll and Stephenson, and all of the county of Jo Daviess.—In

Wisconsin the counties of Grant, Lafayette, Iowa, Green, and part of Dane; and in Iowa

the county of Dubuque—all are known to contain valuable deposits of lead ore. The

northern boundary of the district is the Wisconsin river; and the southern, a base line

drawn east from the Mississippi, near Savanna, thirty miles below Galena. The surface

of this large area is beautifully rolling, rarely broken except in the vicinity of large

streams. Its usual elevation is about 600 feet above Lake Michigan; though a few

isolated peaks rising above all the surrounding country, and known as mounds, attain

twice that altitude. The whole district is entirely destitute of lakes and swamps. Its

waters are carried away by numerous streams, remarkable for their rapid flow and purity.

“The scenery,” says one well qualified to appreciate it, “combines every element of

beauty and grandeur—giving us the sunlit prairie with its soft swell, waving grass and

thousand flowers; the sombre depths of the primeval forest; and castellated cliffs rising

hundreds of feet, with beetling crags that a Titan might have piled.”



It is said that these mines were first discovered as early as 1719 or ’20, by the French and

Spanish settlers of the Mississippi, although no practical account was attempted to be

made of them until one hundred years from that date, at which time O. [?] Johnson of

Ky., brother to him of “Tecumseh” memory, obtained certain concessions from the

Government, inducing him to engage in mining operations. In the spring of that year he

leaded in Riviere la Feve (now Galena river) with thirty men and a supply of provisions

and mining implements, sufficient to carry him through the summer. He found no

difficulty in obtaining what he sought. In various parts of the “diggings” the Indians had

worked out-cropping veins of ore, to supply themselves with lead for their own use; upon

these he commenced at ease, and his success was so great that he was followed in a short

time by numerous adventurers. For the most part, mining with Johnson and his

immediate successors, was a collateral business—trade with the Indians being the

principal object. Until within a few years, Johnson’s trading post stood, as he abandoned

it, on ground now occupied by the levee at the foot of Hill street. In 1826 it was

estimated that 400 men were engaged in the mines. In 1827, emigration from Missouri,

Southern Illinois and Indiana, flowed in rapidly. The lead district became in miniature

the antitype of California. In 1829, the land being still held by government, the town of

Galena was laid off by act of Congress.



The geology of the country belonging to the mining districts, forms an interesting study.

It is described as follows;



1. A stratum of magnesium lime stone—the lead bearing rock—ranging in

thickness from 80 to 250 feet. The out crop of this rock is observed on the

borders of all the streams.



2. Thin blue limestone with layers of shale—from 30 to 80 feet.



3. Yellowish lime stone—twenty-five feet in depth.

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4. Sandstone of various colors, fifty feet thick.



5. Lead bearing lower magnesian lime stone—300 feet.



6. Metamorphic Rock.



The mounds found in various parts of the mining district, are capped with a hard white

limestone, and a bed of shale not included in the above. Of the above strata, the upper

magnesian limestone has claimed the greater part of the geologist’s attention. In it are

found the rich mineral veins, and in it, thus far, has all mining been done. Over the

extent of the mining country, this rock is divided by perpendicular fissures or crevices of

various thicknesses, in which the deposits of the sulphuret of lead—galena—are found.

Their direction is North and South and East and West. A lode in an East and West

crevice is usually more productive than in a North and South.



The following statistics have been furnished by a gentleman at Galena, who is intimately

acquainted with this branch of business. They embrace the amounts produced for twelve

years past—from 1842 to 1853 inclusive—together with the entire shipments per river

and lakes:



Statistics of the Lead Trade of the Upper Mississippi.



Pigs pro- [?] to Price [?] lbs Price [?] Value at

Year duced pounds. Mineral Lead Galena



1842

1843

1844

1845

1846 [Largely Illegible]

1847

1848

1849

1850

1851

1852

1853

---- ---- ---- ---- ----

Total



It will be observed in the table above, that since 1847, the amount of lead produced has

been steadily falling off, until 1853, though in the meantime the price has been as

steadily advancing. The decrease in production is due only to the extraordinary

emigration from this vicinity to California. It is supposed that at least one third of the

population of the mining district has, since the discovery of gold on the Pacific coast,

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gone across the plains. No class of men has done as well in that modern El Dorado, as

the lead miners. They were inured to a miner’s labor and a miner’s fare. The emigration

has now almost wholly ceased, and the returns for 1853, show that the lead interest is

recovering from the blow which it received.



Within the year past, the Mines of this section have attracted the attention of eastern

capitalists, and now large amounts of money are being invested in mining lands and

machinery.—The American Mining Company New York, F. E. Phelps, Prest., is the first

in order. The agents of this company commenced operations about twelve miles from

Galena, on a well known and productive range near Fairplay, Wis. They have set up an

engine of sufficient power to drive their pumps; have erected the necessary buildings,

&c., at an expense of about $30,000, and are now working successfully. This company

has leased 800 acres, within eight miles of this city, upon which a second engine will be

put up during the coming summer.



The Mississippi Mining and Manufacturing Company, a New York corporation, also, has

begun work at Shullsbugh [sic], Wis., 18 miles from this point. The engine of this

company is now in working order, and the prospect of success is highly flattering.



A third company, the title of which we do not know, has made a purchase of other

ground near Shullsburgh—rumor says the price paid is $110,000—Upon which work will

be immediately commenced.



Washburne & Woodman, of Mineral Point, Wis., are organizing a company under an act

of incorporation granted by the Wisconsin legislature. They have leased a mile square at

Dodgeville, 40 miles from Galena; and their machinery is daily expected. They have

secured gound [sic] known to be as valuable as any in the mines, and can hardly fail to

derive a large profit from their investment.



We are happy to give our voice in contradiction to the oft repeated observations as to the

unhealthiness of the locality of this city and adjacent country. The city is now very

healthy; there is no cholera, and very little other illness. It stands on very high ground

[and the] country around it has every indication [of being] as free from all predisposition

to unhealthiness as any we have ever seen.



We are deeply indebted to Dr. [illegible] of the Galena Jeffersonian, for the kindness and

attention with which he has treated us, as well as the other members of our party. To him

we are indebted for most of the statistical and other information embodied in this letter.

He is a whole-souled, and perfect gentleman, in the fullest sense of the word. The Doctor

is right on the great Nebraska question, and his bold and fearless exposure of its iniquity

and baseness, through the columns of the Jeffersonian has done much to mould public

sentiment here in the right shape. To the able and courteous editor of the Advertiser,

H.H. Houghton, Esq., we owe many thanks. When he comes to Chicago, he shall find

that we know how to repay as well as to receive obligations.



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We leave at one o’clock for St. Paul and the Falls of St. Anthony.



We cannot better close this letter, which has already grown to a terrific length, than by

quoting from the Jeffersonian of this morning, the concluding portion of its leading

article referring to the visit of to-day.



Galena, to him who visits it for the first time, has little except its oddity to attract.

It has been described as the “City of Hills,” as the “City of Terraces,” and as the

“City of Mud.” To us who know it well, it is the home of enterprising, honest,

and generous men, and of fair and virtuous women. Its ruggedness, upon

acquaintance, becomes attractive, and its homeliness ripens late beauty.



We express but the general wish of our citizens, when we hope that this visit of so

many of the Eastern men of wealth, energy and enterprise, to the west, conceived

and carried out by the liberality of the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad

Company, may not be the last. The relations of the East and West, should, aside

from the allurements of trade and barter, become more intimate. The political

clouds in the sky, not long since clear as ether, are not without an angry portent.

The mutterings of the thunder warn us that the storm is near. When it burst, the

Mother and Daughter should be found side by side.

Yours, F.





Friday Morning, June 9, 1854



Correspondence of the Tribune.

The Grand Railroad and Steamboat Excursion.

Rock Island, Monday Evening.



We confess ourselves at a loss for words to fully express the emotions of surprise and

admiration with which the scene from the midst of which we now write, has filled us.

Seated upon the hurricane deck of a noble Mississippi steamer, the landscape spread out

before us reveals a spectacle of almost fairy beauty. We are lying upon the eastern shore

of the Rock river, at the point of its confluence with the Father of Waters. The beautiful

city of Rock Island, is upon our right, its wharf and streets crowded with an animated and

happy assemblage. Our fleet composed of seven steamers,--the Galena, Lady Franklin,

War Eagle, Golden Era, Jenny Lind, Black Warrior, and G.W. Sparhawk,--ride at their

moorings, with their decks and guards filled with the brilliant array of their passengers.

We have entrusted our own precious self to the tender mercies of the officers of the

Sparhawk, who have thus far provided for our creature comforts in a manner which

entittles [sic] them to the sincere gratitude of our heart, and to the good will of all the

readers of the Tribune. Each one of the steamers is provided with a brass band, which

ever and anon discourses most excellent music. Ex-President Fillmore has just been

called out to the guard of his boat, the “Golden Era,” and has returned his thanks to the

multitude on shore for the vivas which they showered upon him, while all the bands, by

some strange coincidence, are pouring forth the dulcet strains of “Jordan am a hard road

13

to travel.” We fear Mr. F. will find his road to the Second Term, a hard one indeed to

travel.



But we were describing the beautiful scene before us. It is just before sunset, and the

God of Day, who has veiled his face for the greater part of the afternoon, has suddenly

emerged from behind a cloud, and has thrown a flood of golden and mellow light over

the water and the land, dressing what was before lovely, in robes of perfect enchantment.

The celebrated “Rock Island,” from which the city takes its name, lies at the mouth of

Rock River, and between that stream and the Mississippi. It is a beautiful place, covered

with the most luxuriant verdure, and displaying some small residences peeping out from

beneath the trees. Upon the lower end of it stands old Fort Armstrong, still in a state of

tolerable preservation, although its its [sic] garrison was withdrawn from it at the same

time that the U.S. Troops were taken from Ft. Dearborn, in Chicago—we believe in the

year 1837. At the upper end of the Island is the house rendered famous as being the

scene of the dreadful and mysterious assassination of Col. Davenport. On the opposite

side of the Mississippi river is Davenport, which is certainly one of the most delightful

sites for a city we have ever seen. Our space will not allow us to describe it as it

merits—we shall try to do so as we return.



The country through which we passed to-day is one upon which a volume might be

written. We have never so fully appreciated the greatness of our noble State as we do

now; with the remembrance of that portion of it through which we passed to day fresh in

our mind.—For thirty miles east of this place the road passes through a “Garden of

Eden,”—and it is neither devoid of industrious Adams or beautiful Eves. We will give

more space to its description when we return through it.



The bell has rung, and we will soon be off up the River. More anon.

Yours, F.





Saturday Morning, June 10, 1854



The Excursion



We perceive by the Time Table for the returning Excursion party that the trains are to

leave Rock Island at 1 o’clock this afternoon, and arrive in this city at 9. Will it not be

necessary for our citizens again to extend their hospitality to those strangers! It is hoped

they will be on hand either at the Depot or the different hotels, so that they may extend

whatever courtesy may be necessary.—Chicago will lose nothing by showing these

gentlemen every possible attention. It is possible that many of t he party may not return

here till Monday, but whenever they come let them be well provided for.









14

Monday Morning, June 12, 1854



Our City.



It is gratifying to residents of this city to observe with what views the Editors and

correspondents of Eastern papers speak of Chicago, in their letters home. They repeat the

sentiments often uttered by the press of this city, also by those who know best the support

which Chicago must have in its trade with the surrounding country, thrown open by the

new Railroads, which are being completed as fast as capital and labor can do it. Lest

those croakers abroad and at home (of which we regret there are a few) should think we

have heretofore spoken too strongly of the advantages of Chicago, let them read what a

writer to the Buffalo Commercial Advertiser says—one who could not have regarded us

with other than an unprejudiced opinion:



If any one supposes that Chicago is not “a considerable of a town,” a sojourn of a

few days within its corporate limits will effectually dissipate so absurd an idea.

Its growth for the last two years has been unprecedented, on the “Atlantic Slope”

of the continent, at least, and its progress is still unchecked. It is going ahead

with giant strides, and has now a population equal to that of Buffalo, if it shall not

be found to exceed it. An unofficial census taken within a few weeks past, gives

the population at a figure between 75,000 and 80,000. The general commercial

and mechanical business of the city keeps pace with the augmentation of its

inhabitants. I have seen nothing like the activity of the principal streets out of

New York. This state of things is not to be wondered at, when we consider the

immense “back country” which is tributary to the business of Chicago. This

consists not only of a large portion of the State of Illinois, but much of Iowa,

Wisconsin and Minnesota. Nearly every part of this State is now reached by

railroads, and the result is a natural centre, which is destined, in my judgment, to

be the great city of the Northwest.—The onward march of Chicago cannot be

checked. There are elements of a substantial reality in her prosperity, which must

tell upon her future.



In regard to general improvements, Chicago stands well. There are sixty-one

chuches [sic] in the city, which make a good show for the religious character of

the people. There is a system of Free Schools supported by the State fund and by

a general tax, the same as yours of Buffalo. There are already several large and

commodious brick school edifices; but not sufficient in number yet to meet the

demands of the rapidly increasing population. The Court House is a better one

than I ever saw in the Empire State; and is superior to the State House in

Springfield. It is a large stone building, of excellent architectural properties, and

being located in the centre of the Public Square, presents an imposing appearance.

There are many very handsome four and five story business blocks which have

been recently erected—some of which are fronted with a beautiful white stone

(much resembling marble) which has recently been discovered near this city. The

principal streets, which are at right angles, are planked instead of being paved, on

account of the scarcity of stone of the right kind in this vicinity.—Considerable

15

attention has been paid to the ornamental, and the residences are beautifully

shaded with trees—especially Michigan and Wabash avenues, State street, and

many others.



At the East I know it is generally considered that Chicago is quite an unhealthy

city. I will relate a single fact on this bead of which I became cognizant while at

church yesterday. An annual report was read which was to be forwarded to the

Association to which the church is attached. The items that arrested my attention

were: No. of member 375—Deaths during the year, two. This ratio of mortality is

equalled, if not exceeded, in any of our eastern cities.



The writer of the above thus slightly refers to politics:



As this is the residence of Senator Douglas, perhaps you would like to know how



the Nebraska bill stands here. I have not seen a single supporter of the measure;

but I hear that there is one in town, the Post Master. He had a celebration on

Saturday night having employed about 60 men and boys to carry torches through

the streets, &c. The opposition here is next to unanimous—Huskers, free-soilers,

whigs, abolitionists—all.



The “Know Nothings” organized a “lodge,” or whatever it is called, in this city

last week, so we are in future to have this element, too, in our politics. And from

occurrences and circumstances, I am convinced that a large portion of the people

of Chicago will welcome their coming, embrace their principles and co-operate

with them in action.



The Great Excursion



The guests of the Rock Island Railroad Company returned to this city from their trip to

St. Paul, on Saturday evening at 9 o’clock, all well and in excellent spirits. The

Excursion was a most successful one throughout, and not a single accident occurred to

mar its harmony. One of our Editors, who accompanied the Expedition, and two of

whose letters we have already published, has also returned, and will publish a full and

interesting account of the further events and progress of the Excursion to-morrow.









16

Tuesday Morning, June 13, 1854



Correspondence of the Tribune

The Grand Western Excursion.



The Cities of St. Paul and St. Anthony—The Falls of St. Anthony and

Minnehaha—Fort Snelling and the Post of the American Fur Company—General

View of Minnehaha—Governors Ramsey and Gorman—Politics—Territorial

Printing—Newspapers—Indians, etc.

City of St. Paul

Minnesota Territory



The rain-storm which commenced so inauspiciously on Tuesday night continued

throughout the entire succeeding day, and compelled our party to seek for amusement

and pleasure in in-door employments and enjoyments. The inclemency of the weather

without, only seemed to increase the general good feeling and hilarity of our party, and

the hours flew by with rapidity and glee. We had dancing, vocal and instrumental music,

speaking and, what was better than all, free and unrestrained communication of thought

and sentiment, between men and women of the highest mental cultural and moral worth.

The company upon our boat was said to be the most pleasant in its elements, and the

mood inclined to make these elements harmonious and blending. Among our party were

Messrs. N.C. Ely, of New York; Rev. Dr. Vermilliyea, of do; Mr. Bogard, of Cayuga

Lake, the well known Albany correspondent of the New York Courier and Enquirer;

Moses Kimball, of Boston; Capt. Gear, of Galena; Samuel Bowles, Editor of the

Springfield (Mass.) Republican; Charles Hale, the working Editor of the Boston

Advertiser, probably the best paper in the city, Col. Schooler, of the Cincinnati Gazette;

Caleb Foote, of the Salem (Mass.) Gazette; Mr. Aiken, of the New York Evening Post;

W.C. Prime, of the New York Journal of Commerce, and a host of other, “too numerous

to mention,” but who were all worthy of the appellation of “P.B.”



We would hardly be discharging our duty as a faithful historian and chronicler of the

events of this unique and grand excursion, were we to omit mentioning a trial of great

importance and magnitude, which took place upon our boat, on the days of the 6th and 7th,

and which was conducted in the solemn and decorus manner fitted to the momentous

character of the case. The prisoner at the Bar was a gentleman well known in the literary

and political world, and, we blush to say it, a member of our own confraternity. This fact

alone, and not any false commiseration for the wretched criminal, prevents us from

publishing his name. He was charged, in the indictment, with great formality and legal

accuracy, with having, on a certain night and at a certain hour, with malice aforethought

broken open a state-room on board our steamer, and that with a certain slat found therein,

he did then and there make a felonious assault upon the occupant thereof; and did then

and there beat, wound, bruise, mutilate and deform said occupant, for a long time, to wit:

the space of thirty seconds—against the peace and dignity of the said steamer, and in

opposition to the laws of the Mississippi in such cases made and provided. To this

indictment the prisoner plead “not guilty,” and threw himself upon his country for trial.

The Court, in empannelling the Jury, informed them that it should see, in the enforcement

17

of its decrees and regulations, no other weapons but those of Mercy and Justice, at the

same time lying upon the table before him an enormous pair of duelling pistols, and a

bowie-knife eighteeen inches long. The counsel, both for the prosecution and defense,

came into Court with similar authorities, one of them having a double-barrelled rifle and

a bowie-knife of portentous dimensions, and the other being armed cap-a-pie, California

style. The trial proceeded with great solemnity and form, and was conducted with much

more ability than many we have seen transacted under the [???] of our highest State

Judiciaries. The closing speech of the counsel for the defence, Moses Kimball, Esq.,

was, seriously speaking, a very fine and eloquent burlesque. It occupied some three

quarters of an hour in its delivery, and was listened to with profound attention. The Jury

in this case have not yet given in their verdict, but will probably do so to-day.



The angry heavens ceased to weep towards the end of Wednesday, and just before night

the clouds cleared away, as if to allow us to see a most beautiful and enchanting

spectacle, a clear sunset on the Mississippi. We were at this time rapidly approaching the

entrance of Lake Pepin, and the scene was, if possible, more bold and romantic than ever.

We ascended to the upper deck, to drink in the loveliness of the scene, and remained

there, in silent but deep admiration until the shades of night shut out every beauty from

our view. We wished for the pencil of a Hogarth to paint that landscape. An attempt to

describe its beautifies with our pen, would be mockery.



After entering the Lake, which we did about 11 o’clock that night, four of our boats were

lashed together, and we proceeded in that manner up the Lake. The remaining part of the

night was spent by the companies in visits from one boat to the other, dancing, music,

flirtations, et cetere.



According to the promise of the preceeding evening, the morning of the 8th, Thursday,

dawned upon us in unclouded beauty and loveliness, bathing the shores in seas of liquid

light, sparkling upon the waters in gleams of molten fire, and chasing away the morning

mists which hung like snowy curtains along the bases of the cliffs.



Our fleet came in sight of the City of St. Paul about eight o’clock in the morning. The

display of the fleet in the river around the point below the city, is represented by those

who witnessed it from the shore, as being grand beyond precedent. The five boats were

so arranged that they approached in as much order as tho’ they were an armed squadron

taking their position in a line of battle. The full bands of music on board, struck up lively

airs as we approached the landing. This, with the rays of a bright June sun, which broke

forth in all its glory after three days storm; the animation of the company on board the

boats, and the enthusiasm of the assembled hundreds on shore and on the decks of the

Admiral, then lying at the landing, produced a sense of excitement which St. Paul had

never before witnessed, and perhaps will not again for many years.



The view of the city, approaching from the river, is certainly very imposing, and could be

made, as no doubt it will be, very beautiful. The city stands on two ledges or bluffs, the

lowest of which is sixty-five feet above high water mark. There is ample space between

18

the base of these cliffs and the water, for an admirable levee, for the reception and

discharge of river freight. There are several warehouses for storage and commission

upon the levee, although the principal business of the place, appears to be done up in the

centre of the city. If we are to believe the representations of the business men of the

place, the business done here is very extensive. We attempted to obtain some statistics in

relation to the amount of commerce done here, both in the Mississippi and interior trades,

but although we went over the entire city in our search, we were unable to obtain the

desired information. We were impressed with the fact, which speaks well for the amount

of trade done here, that the business is well systematized, and that each merchant

confines himself to one particular branch of trade. Thus we saw exclusive hardware,

queensware, dry goods, hat and cap, boot and shoe stores, &c., whereas our experience of

newly settled places has always led to [sic] us expect to find every thing which the heart

of man or woman could wish upon the shelves and in the boxes of a single establishment.

All of the merchants with whom we conversed, expressed themselves in a manner which

convinced us that they were doing well. They said that there was a large business doing,

but more could be done, and that, many as were the establishments of every kind here

there was still room for more.



Property in the city is held at a pretty high figure, and farming land near the city is valued

at prices which would alarm even a Chicago Real Estate Dealer. Thus, on our visit to St.

Anthony, of which more anon, we were shown a farm, some six miles from the city,

which we were told was worth $60[?] per acre. We did not think that the rents in the city

were at all exhorbitant, although our views upon this subject are no doubt considerably

enlarged by our own experience in Chicago. For the best business stand in the city, a two

story frame store, upon the corner of the main street and an avenue running toward the

river, only $600[?] per annum was paid. The next building to this one, rested at $400; the

one below that at either $300 or $350[?].



St. Paul covers an immense space of ground, and may, in its present condition, be termed

a second city of magnificent distances. The upper and lower towns together must extend

some three miles from the steamboat landing up the river, and some half a mile back.

The ground, on going back from the river, becomes lower and quite marshy, as we found

to our painful experience, on attempting to proceed on foot to the Capitol, to the ruination

of our boots, and to the expense of an extra dime to a “gentleman from Africa” before we

were in a condition to enter the Ball room. The principal street of the city is the first one

upon the top of the bluff, and is tolerably well built up. The private residences of the

citizens are, in the great majority of instances, very neat and tasteful edifices, surrounded

by beautiful and highly cultivated grounds, and embowered in lovely groves of native

forest trees. The residences of Ex-Governor Ramsey, and of His Present Excellency,

Willis A. Gorman, are both very handsome places.



The city is in latitude 44° 52’ 46”, longitude 94° 4’ 54”, is a port of entry, the county seat

of Ramsey county, and, also, the seat of the government of the Territory. It is 2070

above the mouth of the Mississippi, and is elevated nearly 800 feet above the gulf of

Mexico. Its site is magnificent, and we have never seen a spot better adapted by Nature

for a showy and delightful display of architecture and gardening than the natural terrace

19

of hills upon which it stands. It is, commercially speaking, the key to all the vast regions

north of it, and, by the Minnesota River, to the immense valley drained by that important

tributary to the Mississippi. From the lower landing of the city, we ascend a bench some

seventy-five feet above the river, and come upon the site of the lower town. Retiring

from this, about half a mile northerly, across a plain which appears to have been the

bosom of a lake, we ascend a third bluff, nearly 200 feet high, and some 300 feet above

the Mississippi. This ascent is wooded, and so is the region beyond for perhaps twenty

miles. From this point we can overlook St. Paul; and extending the vision down the river

some twenty miles, we take in our vision a wide stretch of the late Sioux lands and bluish

hills, far away up the Minnesota in the West. The country is spotted all over, at distances

of one to three miles, with bright and cool little lakes, that abound in excellent fish. The

scene over the bluff toward St. Anthony, is over a prairie extending in length some six

miles, and a breadth a distance of we know not how much.



We endeavored to obtain from the business men of the city all the statistical information

possible in relation to the amount of commerce and manufactures of the place for the

present year, but were unable to obtain any reliable figures for a later date than the close

of the year 1853. In that year the amount of capital invested in merchandise in St. Paul,

including the capital invested in the Indian trade, whose centre is St. Paul, was no less

than $790,000. A large portion of the trade of the city is a wholesale business, and its

merchants are already supplying the wants of the interior traders who have hitherto

purchased at Galena or St. Louis. The amount of money invested, in that year, in

manufactures in the city was $177,000. The number of dwellings in the city is about

eight hundred.



The city has now a population of some six thousand. Her Hotels are eleven in number.

Her churches are very numerous, and when all of her “church going bells” are chiming

together, the din which they make is anything but pleasant to our, perhaps unsanctified,

ears. The first church organization here was that of the Catholic Church of St. Paul, in

1847, which really gave the town its name. The first Protestant Church organized here

was the Methodist Episcopal, on the 31st of December, 1848, by the Rev. B. Close, now

of Oregon. The first Masonic Lodge here was instituted in the fall of 1849; and the first

lodge of I.O.O.F. in May, 1850. The first school ever opened in the city was taught by a

Miss Bishop, who commenced to teach young ideas how to shoot in this wild, in July,

1847. She had for the first day nine scholars, of whom but two were whites. The public

schools of the city would now do honor to Chicago.



There are in St. Paul, twenty five practicing attorneys at law, and ten physicians. We

believe there is no homeopathic physician there; at least we could find none, although we

searched diligently with tears, being in great want of some acomite pills.



The first newspaper established here was the Pioneer, a democratic paper, still in

existence.—There are three others, the Times, the Democrat, and the Minnesotian. They

are all quite respectable sheets, and are edited with a commendable degree of ability.

The Pioneer is the organ of the Administration, and has lately obtained a fat take in the

20

shape of the Territorial printing, which is worth $12,000, two-thirds of which is profit.

We are glad of it.



The politics of St. Paul, as of every other city and town of which we know anything, are

in somewhat of a transitory and unsettled state.—As would be naturally supposed, in a

community composed, for the most part, of men of some education and refinement, with

but little foreign population, Whig sentiments and principles largely prevail, and we have

but little doubt that were Minnesota now a member of the Union, the majority, at least,

of her Congressional delegation, would be whig. The present Governor, Willis A.

Gorman, of Indiana, is not by any means as popular as his excellent predecessor, Ex-Gov.

Alexander Ramsey. He does not possess either the talents, nor the high toned moral

principles of Mr. Ramsey, and it is easy to see, from the manner in which the inhabitants

of St. Paul speak of him, that they do not owe to President Pierce a very deep debt of

gratitude for the change which he effected in their territorial administration. During our

residence in Indiana we knew Col. Gorman very well; were perfectly familiar with his

political history and services there, and with his distinguished achievements in the 2d

Indiana Regiment in the Mexican War, and certainly was never more surprised than when

we learned that President Pierce had given to him the Governorship of Minnesota

Territory; one of the most valuable and important of our Provinces, and upon the proper

management of whose affairs interest of such magnitude and weight depend. This,

however, was in the earlier portions of Franklin the 1st’s administration, and before we

knew so much of him as we now do. We have long since ceased to wonder at any of his

acts, and should he to morrow appoint Mr. Cameron, of our city, Minister Plenipotentiary

to the government of St. Domingo, as we learn there is some prospect of his doing, in

consideration of his eminent services on the night of the Nebraska Torch Light Fizzle, we

should regard the matter with perfect serenity. But this has really nothing to do with St.

Paul. Return we to our matters [?].



The sentiment of the great majority of the people of this city, and we have reason to

believe, of the entire Territory, is strongly anti-Nebraska. Amid the very large number of

individuals belonging here with whom we have conversed, we failed to find a single

inhabitant who did not laugh at the idea of Gen. Cass’ “Popular Sovereignty” humbug,

and who was not sincerely opposed to the repeal of the Missouri Compromise. That

there are a few officials and office-seekers here who favor the measure, there can be no

doubt, but the people are right upon this question, and will be found right upon it when

their day of trial comes.



By some very unfortunate misunderstanding on the part of the citizens, our arrival at St.

Paul occurred exactly one day earlier than we were expected, and we came upon them

wholly unexpectedly, and before they had at all perfected their arrangements for

receiving us. We have not, however, the slightest occasion for complaint as to the

manner in which we were received, and the attention and honor bestowed upon us, even

at the moment’s notice which they received. On the evening before we arrived, the

Common Council of the city, at a special meeting, passed the following series of

resolutions which show in what spirit our visit was received:



21

Whereas, Information has reached this Common Council, that the Chicago and

Rock Island R.R. Co., purpose to celebrate the completion of their road, by an

Excursion by Steamboat, from the terminus of said road on the Mississippi, to this

city;



And Whereas, this Common Council has learned, also, that among the guests

upon this occasion, there will be many of the influential and distinguished “wise

men of the East,” whose names, by virtue of their gigantic plans for developing

the resources of the West, their well conceived energy and their wide extended

liberality, are as familiar to us all as “household words,” therefore be it



Resolved, that we welcome to the far North West, those who, by their enterprise

and perseverance, have opened the first steam communication between the Upper

Mississippi and the Atlantic Coast, thereby giving additional strength to the union

between the East and the West, of this Great Confederacy.



Resolved, That we recognize in the proposed excursion, unsurpassed in its

conception, and unequalled in the arrangements which have been entered into for

its successful accomplishment, the same spirit which has placed the Chicago &

Rock Island R.R. Co. so far in advance of all its rivals; and that from the

completion of this road, and from this excursion, and from the far seeing wisdom

which has planned and executed both, we are led to expect much for ourselves,

and for the many millions who will ere long inhabit this vast region, stretching

north and west, from Lake Michigan to the Pacific Ocean.



Resolved, that every citizen of St. Paul, be and he is hereby requested to do all in

his power to render the sojourn of the guests of the Chicago and Rock Island R.R.

Co. among us, pleasant and agreeable; and that all are called upon to do

something toward establishing the good name of our infant city, for warm

hearted, generous hospitality.



Resolved, that these resolutions be signed by the Mayor, and a copy thereof, duly

attested, be forwarded by the city Clerk to the President and Directors of said

company.



Shortly after our arrival at the city, our entire company bundled themselves into vehicles

of every imaginable class and variety, from a four-horse coach to a one horse water cart,

(upon which latter equipage we saw three New York editors mounted,) and set forth upon

the expedition to the City and Falls of St. Anthony, the first falls in the Mississippi river,

and situated eight or nine miles above St. Paul. The road thither leads over a country

which we have never seen surpassed, and very rarely equalled, for true beauty. It has

every appearance, both in its cultivated and uncultivated portions, of being an old, long-

settled, well-cultivated and productive portion of one of the best of the Eastern or Middle

States. The country is gently rolling high, and well watered by clear and rapid brooks the

limpid waters of which flow into the Mississippi river, which latter stream can be seen at

22

various points along the road to St. Anthony.—A portion of this country is heavily

timbered, and the remainder of it is prairie, and such prairie! We have nothing to equal it

in Illinois, although we have here prairies which are famed for their beauty the world

over. Our prairies are flat, undiversified, and for the most part tiresome from their

monotony. Here, on the contrary, are a succession of the most beautiful hills imaginable,

bounded on one side by the river, and, stretching on the other as far as the eye can see,

interspersed with patches of the most majestic trees, and wearing as smooth and shaven

an aspect as do the meadows of Pennsylvania, New York or Ohio. About half way to St.

Anthony, some genius has erected an observatory, after the manner and form of the one

which towers up towards Heaven near the Crystal Palace. You are charged the sum of

one dime (good and lawful currency of this Republic) for the privilege of ascending to

the top of this edifice, upon accomplishing which feat you behold a panorama of beauty

and sublimity which enrapture you, and which would make the fortune of our nervous

and talented little friend, M. Andrieu, could he transfer it faithfully and its true

loveliness, to his canvas. Such is the height of the observatory that it gives you a view of

the country for forty miles around, embracing Fort Snelling, the Falls, the river, and a

number of bright and sparkling lakes, which shine out from their emerald settings like the

gems in a princess’ crown.



The first view of the Falls of St. Anthony is obtained from the road, and does not sustain

the expectations which are generally entertained of its beauty and sublimity. This

disappointment, however, is soon amply dissipated, and gives way to the most profound

satisfaction upon a nearer and more favorable view being secured. Arriving at the village

of St. Anthony city, we descend a very precipitous bluff, and find ourselves standing

immediately below the lesser fall. Its real beauty is much diminished by an immense

quantity of saw logs and drift weed, which is piled up above and below the fall in most

gigantic masses. Crossing this branch of the river a short distance above the fall, by

means of a very precarious foot bridge, we crossed the Island, and soon found ourself in

sight of the other and more attractive fall. Here, for the first time, we acknowledged the

beauty and sublimity of this work of nature. The same drawbacks, in the shape of logs

and drift, are also here, but in despite of these the native grandeur and beauty of the scene

forces itself upon your heart, and compels you to bow down before the majesty and

power of the God whose wrath, perhaps, forced the mighty rocks asunder, piled them in

Titan height upon each other, and sent the rushing waves of the Mississippi over them,

roaring down their massive sides, as if in anger at their restraint. We spent three hours on

this spot, and never were three hours of our life more pleasantly, and we hope more

profitably spent.



There were those among our party who expressed themselves dissatisfied and

disappointed at the appearance of the Falls, and in the effect which they produced upon

them, but we cannot share those feelings. We received from the view of these falls more

real and exquisite pleasure than we have any words to express—It is true that we were

not overwhelmed as we were at Niagara, with the great height of the water’s fall, their

deafening roar, and the lofty character of their scenery. The falls of St. Anthony are

more within the grasp of the human mind, and are therefore looked upon with more real

pleasure. Niagara frowns upon you with a threatening look, while St. Anthony greets

23

you with a more winning and complacent smile, and impresses you with the beauty and

appropriateness of its Indian name, “The Laughing Water.”



Yet on account of the vast body of water continually rushing over the rocky mass in the

river’s bed, the scene is one of great sublimity, as well as one of beauty and loveliness.

As we gaze on the scene, and listen to the warring elements, how forcibly are we

impressed with the truth of Brainard’s beautiful lines:--



“And what are we,

That hear the question of that voice sublime?

O, what are all the notes that ever rung

From war’s vain trumpet, by thy thundering side?

Yea, what is all the riot man can make

In his short life, to thine unceasing roar?

And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him

Who drowned the world and heaped the waters far

Above its loftiest mountain? A light wave

That breaks and whispers at its Maker’s might?”



There was an interesting ceremony performed here, which we should not omit to

mention.—One of our party, Col. Johnson, of N.Y., had brought with him a bottle filled

with water taken from the Atlantic Ocean. The contents of this bottle, with appropriate

ceremonies, was emptied into the river, just below the Falls, and the waters of the

Atlantic and Mississippi were at length mingled together!



The city of St. Anthony must very soon become an important point in the Territory, on

account of the incalculable water power which is here. There are facilities here for

Manufacturing establishments of almost every variety, which, if developed, would bring

out a mine of wealth sufficient of itself to build up the Territory. The city contains some

2500 inhabitants.



We returned to St. Paul, about 3 o’clock, and at five started to our boats on a visit to Fort

Snelling. This fortification is situated about eight miles above St. Paul, at a very

commanding point in the river, and was formerly an extremely important fort for the

protection of the Western frontier from the ravages of the Indians. It presents an

imposing and feudal appearance, frowning down upon the river with its turrets and

battlements pierced for cannon and musketry, and barred with iron heads of mighty

strength. The Commandant of the Fort politely threw open the entire fortification for our

inspection, and several of his officers showed us through the buildings. There are now a

part of two companies of U.S. troops stationed here, Company K of the 6th Infantry, and

Company E of the 3d Dragoons. The remainder of the latter Company left the Fort about

three weeks since for New Mexico. The officer’s quarters, which occupy two sides of

the grand enclosure which forms the parade ground, are very elegantly furnished, and are

really very pleasant and desirable residences. Most of the officers of the garrison are

married and have families, and although necessarily shut out from the great world for the

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larger portion of their time, appear to be, and express themselves as being, happy and

contented in their seclusion.



The barracks for the troops are ample, commodious, well ventilated, and wholesome.

The troops enjoy excellent health, and appear to be happy and to enjoy their mode of life.

Their labor in times of peace is not fatiguing; they have just exercise enough to render

their health secure; their discipline is mild, but firm and certain; their duty is well known

to them, and they have only to perform it to merit the approbation of their superiors. We

were pleased to see that in one of the buildings there was a large and well filled reading

room, which was open for officers in the mornings, and for privates, musicians, and non-

commissioned officers, in the afternoon.



Returning from the Fort, we passed the village of Mendota, upon the right bank of the

river, at which place the old and well known American Fur Company is situated.



On returning to St. Paul, we found of number of carriages on the shore, waiting to convey

us to the Capitol Building, at which place a grand ball was to be given in our honor, and

in commemoration of the occasion. Upon arriving at the Capitol, we found already

assembled a numerous company of the ladies and gentlemen of the city, who received us

with great cordiality and kindness. The Capitol is a large two story building, surmounted

by an elegant dome, and supported on either side by a large wing. The Ball Room was

the grand hall in the main body of the building; the orchestra, formed of all the bands

from the boats, combined with the St. Paul band, were placed in the centre room; the

Chamber of the House of Representatives was used as a supper hall, and the Senate

Chamber was used as an Assembly and drawing-room. Before the commencement of the

dancing, the company assembled in this Chamber, and his Excellency, Gov. Gorman, in a

few appropriate remarks, welcomed the company to the city and territory. Responses

were made by Mr. Fillmore and Mr. Bancroft, and the company then adjourned to the

ball room, where the evening passed most delightfully.



During our visit to Minnesota Territory, we saw but very few Indians. Three of those

whom we saw were Sioux warriors, two of the others were Chippeway squaws, and an

encampment of some twenty which we passed on the river, belonged also to the Sioux

nation. These tribes have been lately removed back into their new territory, and now are

comparatively seldom seen in the settled portions. Not more than two years ago the

Sioux and Chippeways were in the habit of occasionally amusing themselves by the

fascinating recreation of shooting and scalping each other in the streets of St. Paul; six

years ago, where the capitol now stands, stood an Indian encampment, and an Indian

sugar camp. Now there is a building there which would do honor to an older State, in the

heart of a city of six thousand souls.



Our return trip commenced at 12 o’clock on Thursday night, and has thus far, Friday

evening, passed off as pleasantly as heart could wish, without anything transpiring of

moment, with the exception of the following proceedings, which have just occurred:







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A committee of five gentlemen were appointed to draft resolutions expressive of the

sentiments of the meeting. The committee retired, and soon brought in the following,

which were unanimously adopted:



Resolved, That our grateful acknowledgments are due, and are hereby cordially

expressed, to Joseph Sheffield and Henry Farnam, Esquires, and to the Directors

of the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad Company, whose liberality has enabled

us to inspect their road, a noble monument of perseverance and enterprise,

forming the last link of a continuous railroad from the Atlantic to the Mississippi;

and, also, to visit with as much comfort the Upper Mississippi, to survey its

unsurpassed natural beauties, and view the cities and villages, and wonderful

agricultural improvements and advantages, which already adorn its banks, and

which by their railroad are now so easily accessible.



Resolved, That our thanks are also sincerely tendered to the several Railroad and

Steamboat Companies who on the invitation of the Chicago and Rock Island

Railroad, have generously passed their guests free, to attend this most interesting

excursion.



Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions, signed by the Chair and the

Secretaries, be furnished to the parties concerned, with such letter accompanying

them as the Chair may judge proper.



Resolved, That Messrs. John Arnot of Elmira, and C. Van Benthuysen of Albany,

New York, be a committee to obtain funds necessary to procure for the captain

and officers of this boat, such testimonial as shall express our high approbration

[sic] of their efficiency and kindness.



The meeting was then adjourned sine die.



On the latter portion of this theme we have something of our own to say. We imagine

that never, since the foundation of the great deep were broken up, and Father Noah set

sail upon his voyage, which is the first aquatic excursion on record, until the present day,

has there been a more delightful boat in every respect, than the G.W. Sparhawk; a more

noble, generous and efficient set of men than the officers of the said Sparhawk; and a

more complete set of thorough good fellows than the passengers of the said Sparhawk.

The names of these officers we give to the world, that they may receive that immortality

which is their just due, and that the good will and respect which every one of the

Sparhawk entertains for them, may be also entertained and remembered by every one of

their numerous friends. They are as follows:



Captain—M. Gains.

1st Clerk—Major Jo. Bowman.

2nd Clerk—Capt. F.R. Williams.

3d Clerk—M. Dalsell.

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Pilots—Capt. Harlow, Capt. Gazeg.

Engineer—Geo. Goble.

Steward—Edward Augustus Dadiemar



There was nothing which could be done to advance our comfort, to enhance our

enjoyment, and to secure our safety, which was left undone by these gentlemen, and the

success of their efforts was fully exemplified by the unbroken hilarity which reigned on

board. We propose a sentiment, and it is one which will be drunk with three times three

by every Sparhawk:

“The G.W. Sparhawk and her officers—Long may they wave!”



It will be seen by the discerning reader that a portion of this letter was written at St. Paul,

another portion on the return trip, and we now pen the concluding paragraph in our own

same town, which blissful haven of peace we reached on Saturday evening, at 9 o’clock,

at which time the great majority of the excursionists returned to Chicago. Thus happily

ended, without a single accident or disturbance to mar the harmony and pleasure, the

most magnificent excursion, in every respect, which has ever taken place in America, and

one whose remembrance will also be treasured up in the memory of every one of its

members, as one of those bright, particular joys

“Which were not born to die.”

---

It is proper that we should state that a letter which we wrote on the river, describing the

events on the trip from Galena up to the point where the present letter commences, and

which we mailed at St. Paul, has never come to hand.



We mailed it at St. Paul the morning of our arrival there, on board the steamer Admiral,

and that is the last we have seen or heard of it. We are wholly unable to account for its

mysterious disappearance.





Friday Morning, June 16, 1854



[Noted]



Ex-President Fillmore was one of the party of Rock Island Excursionists who went to St.

Louis instead of coming back to Chicago, on their return from St. Paul. He was very

warmly received there, we see by the St. Louis papers, and the citizens made a great fuss

over him, which was doubtless very pleasant to him.



Presentation of Plate



The passengers of the steamer Golden Era, in accordance with resolution passed during

their excursion to the Falls of St. Anthony, have presented the Captain of that boat with a

splendid Silver Pitcher, bearing the following inscription:







27

Presented to

HIRAM BERSIE,

Master of the Golden Era.

By the

Passengers

of that Steamer,

on their Excursion to

the Falls of St. Anthony, while

guests of the Chicago & Rock Island

Railroad Company, as a slight testimonial

of their respect and their grateful ap-

preciation of his urbanity, vigi-

lance, and professional abili-

ties, June, 1854.





Saturday Morning, June 24, 1854



[Poem]

For the Chicago Tribune

The Mississippi.

A broad, bright river, flowing on,--and on—

As if it had no end; its rugged banks,

Their bold, and tow’ring rocks, by June ar-

rayed.

Now, the hills part, and prairies meet our eyes,

Covered with flowers that shun the vulgar gaze,

And give their beauty to the sun and stars.

Anon, a lofty forest greets the shore;

Its nodding glories gleam upon the wave,

And softened, made ethereal, made more fair,

The blue wave gives them back.

The river, beautiful with islets green,

The noble river, dancing in the light,

Or half obscured by a soft golden haze,

As God would hide its glory

Such is the Mississippi and more fair.

Trav’ler, who ere thou art, from what far land,

From what bright region; whether from the

East,

Where strange flowers blossom, and sweet spi-

ces grow,

Or from India’s seas, whose depths hide pearls.

And those shores sparkle with their golden

sands;

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Whether thou comest from the sunny south,

The land of vineyards and the flowering palm,

Or whether from those classic, hallowed lands,

Old Greece, and Italy and Palestine,

Dimmed and illumined with the mighty past:

Whether thine eyes have looked upon the Alps,

Those strongholds built by God to guard His

own,

Or thou has floated o’er that lovely lake

That lies beneath them, smiling at their power:

No matter where thy wandering feet have trod,

O! come with me to this new world of ours,

And stand with me beside the Sire of Streams,

And if thou sayest that thine eyes have seen

Aught of more perfect beauty, more delight,

Thou was not born of earth, thou art from

Heaven. S.A.W.

Chicago, June 17.





Monday, June 26, 1854



A Delightful Excursion.



Those of our readers whose business will allow them to do so, cannot do anything better

than to pick up a portmanteau early on Monday morning, and start off on an excursion to

the country, calculating to be gone until the succeeding Saturday night. Let them go

down to the passenger depot of the Rock Island Railroad and buy a ticket for Rock

Island, take a seat in the car, open the Daily Tribune, and read the leader. This being

done, and the patient being thereby thrown into a highly pleasant and well contented

frame of mind, he will find himself about the neighborhood of Blue Island, the second

station out of Chicago, and from which point the country begins to grow so charming as

to afford him occupation and amusement enough to merely view the ever changing, but

always lovely features. Rushing on over the prairie, along the banks of most enchanting

creeks, half hidden in the shade of ancient trees, whose overhanging boughs dip in the

sparkling waters, through deep and mournful forests, wild and unbroken as when the

Indian and the deer skulked beneath their branches; past new and flourishing villages,

smart and bustling towns, and well cultivated and rich farms, are very long our traveler

will come in sight of the Illinois river, and the twin towns of LaSalle and Peru. Rushing

through them, he will enter again upon one of the most beautiful prairies which the eye of

man has ever beheld, clad in living green and bedecked with flowers of every hue. He

will open his car window and, regardless of the danger thus incurred, will stick his head

out of it, and drink in the beauties of the scene. On, on, he goes, and eight hours from the

time he left Chicago, he will land in the city of Rock Island. Here he will, for the first

time, perhaps, fully appreciate the joys which we have brought him to experience. The

majestic Mississippi flows at his feet, separating the cities of Rock Island and Davenport,

29

the latter of which will attract his attention and command his admiration. He steps upon

the steam ferry boat, pays five cents, and in three minutes lands in Iowa. And then, if he

were we, he would stroll up into the town, find some pleasant hotel, boarding house, or

private family, establish himself for a week, and begin to enjoy himself. How? By rising

with the sun, or just before him, and roaming out upon the hills to catch the first breath of

the morning, and to see the shadows flee away from the light; to pass the day in blissful

idleness; to lie at full length beneath umbrageous trees, fanned by soft breezes, soothed

by the soft and confused murmurs of a country village life, lulled to sleep, perchance, by

the sweet melody of forest birds, and wakened by the happy shout of some urchin on his

way to school. By seeking out some lovely valley where he could charm away the hours

by converse with some favorite author; some sequestered nook, like that in which

Gertrude of Wyoming might have dreamed,

[7 lines of poetry – largely illegible]



To straggle down to the river’s side, armed with a volume of Izaak Walton and fishing

apparatus, cast the line into the water, set down in that shade, open the book and wait for

a bite. To lay there in dreamy idleness, while the sun goes down behind the trees, and the

thousand and one mingled sounds of a country evening come in soft cadence in your ear,

[6 lines of poetry – largely illegible]



Without reservation we know of no place where a week may be more profitably and

pleasantly spent in recreation and in health seeking than in and around the two towns we

have mentioned. The country near them is perfectly delightful; the air is cool, pure and

refreshing; the people are kind, hospitable, frank, intelligent and accommodating, and

will do everything in their power to make a stranger’s stay among them comfortable and

pleasant.









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