Maldives
An indepth guide
text and photography by Michael Aw
Sea Safari
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cLocKWIse FRoM FAR LeFt: close up of sea ane-
Maldives
mone; jewel islands of the Maldives; three spot
angelfish hovers over lush pink corals; luxury livea-
board dive boat; sea turtle swims through sun rays
One thousand and 192 islands, the islets with names such as Kuda huraa, For the intrepid diver, a live-aboard trip
islets and sand cays string the Maayafushi, Kurumba, Ihuru, Kanifinolhu, is the obvious option to explore the best
nakatchafushi and Feshu are themselves dive sites of underwater Maldives. In 1996,
26 atolls of the Maldives; from exotic, magical, romantic, only limited for the Rainbow sea project, I embarked
the air they float like emerald to one’s imagination of fantasy that upon my first live-aboard or safari as is
necklaces flung upon a cobalt may become reality. the atolls, each commonly known in this country of infinite
blue sea. Sitting right on the composed of uncountable submarine horizon. With friends, we started our sojourn
reefs and islets fringed with glistening white from Male across to Rashdoo, Ari Atoll
trade route of the early Arab sand beaches. then back to, Felidhoo, south and north
merchants, the human history no other tropical isles or dream-like atolls Male atolls onboard a replica of an 18th
of these islands dates back rival these remarkable gems of the Indian century galleon. For the entire expedition
ocean. some islands are
some 15 centuries. The Maldives
adorned with lush foliage of
archipelago comprises of coconut palms and banyan
uncountable submerged reefs trees while others are just
call thila in ‘dhivehi’—the local powdery white sand islets
with waving palms.
language—stretching 760km Well-traveled writers
north to south and 120km from describe the country as
east to west. This natural barrier sexy, exotic and alluring;
of walls beneath the sea has a setting for the romantic,
the adventurer and the
evoked fear among even the explorer—an expanse
most seasoned of seaman since of sea, of open sky that
time immemorial; for them, it is a canopies one of the richest
celebrations of life beneath
place to be avoided—a place
the seas.
where careless ships go to die.
pRevIoUs pAGe: Underwater photographer and school of bright yellow blue-striped snappers
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we were blessed with mirror flat seas; we divers visiting the Maldives, the european
dived into a school of hammerheads, rules. Apart from the Red sea, the Maldives
swam with two gianormous whale sharks, is their escape from the maddening
played with spinner dolphins, spent three crowds. blue water, spectacular marine
hours with mantas, tunas—big tunas— life and ease of diving have made the
turtles, napoleon wrasse, boisterous reef Maldives the Mecca for the european.
sharks, snappers and more snappers in supported by 95 dive resorts, and just
uncountable numbers were sighted on about the same number of live-aboard
almost every dive. dive vessels, there are options to suit
the highlight was, of course, the orcas every whim and fancy. Much like the
that came alongside our boat one resorts, standards on safari boats varies
early dawn in south Male atoll, the first considerably. While the quality of diving
recorded sighting of a pod in the Maldives. may differ dramatically from atoll to atoll
sightings over our 11-day expedition were and island to island during the year, the
extraordinary. our experiences were the standard and skills of the diving operations
stories divers’ dreams are made of. are varied suiting the type of clientele
since then, I have been back for several they service best. obviously, choosing the
more safaris on a few different boats to ‘right’ live-aboard is an important issue,
produce feature documentaries, videos which may turn one’s dream holiday into a
or just a feature assignment for diving nightmare. careful planning is essential.
cLocKWIse FRoM Above: An ador- magazines. I was fortunate that all my though there are now quite a few that
able little orange blenny, about the safaris in the Maldives were productive, are locally owned and managed, the
size of a green pea, peeps out of its pleasant and memorable. however, I have majority of safari boats have a definite
hole; diver and huge napoleon wrasse; had reports from many first timers that their european flavor, dedicated entirely to
vibrant pink, purple and yellow soft cor- trip was far short of expectation. serving either the German, Italian, swiss or
als decorate the reefs of the Maldives;
For us folks from the Asia pacific, we must French clientele. While some are relentlessly
jumping into paradise from the pier
first understand that in the mainstream of Western, others offer local Maldivian curry
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Beware, the Maldives
is like eating M&Ms
—addictive—once is
never enough.
beLoW: bigeye fish
Dive safari boats are par-
ticularly “photographer
friendly”. they will dive the
well-known sites at times
when there are never any
other divers around
solely for variation sake. Don’t expect opulent class specially built live-aboards In the past few years, the number of
authenticity, quality varies from canned like that of the Four season’s Island boats offering extended trips around
food or basic buffet to fine dining. explorer. expect to pay about UsD 190 the atolls has increased exponentially.
Many boats are small; cabins are at for an above average class boat; pick Luckily, there are now a few good ones
best toilet-sized cubicles, but there are one of any less, and you will be likely to dedicated to serve the serious divers.
always generous sun decks for those find yourself sharing space with a boat With careful planning and by asking the
who insist on returning roasted. load of laid back european taxi drivers. right questions before committing to
except for a few vessels that make Remember, you will only get what one, you can be sure of a memorable
the effort to market to the UsA and you are paying for. Again, I emphasize safari adventure in the Maldives.
Asia, the majority are dominated by generally the concept and style of I have personally tested the Mv
client of one nationality—though this service is predominantly european, with Guilia, Island explorer 7, Mv sea Queen,
tends to be a result of marketing, rather a laid back attitude amidst a relaxed sea spirt, and Mv Manthiri and find
than coincidence. As I mentioned atmosphere of sun, beer and sleep, that they are most suitable for the
earlier, book into one that is not your and if the spirit moves, maybe one or enthusiastic divers. A peter hugh boat
kind, and though mostly unintentional, two dives per day. If you are a die-hard has just recently begun operation this
discrimination can be obvious. diver, these are the boats to avoid. season.
these days, the safari boats range however, if serious diving is of primary Life on board these boats are the
from cattle class converted from fishing concern, a diving safari through the typical cliché when talking about world
boats, locally built cruisers, to the Maldives is definitely the way to go. class live-aboard diving—dive, eat,
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cLocKWIse FRoM beLoW: clown fish in anemone; Manta ray silhouette; coral reef garden with
anthias; view of the Maldives from transport boat on arrival; Water planes are available for transfers
offer video the elegant explorer suite boasts
and e6 pro- expansive panoramic windows,
cessing ser- measures 45 square meters, featur-
vice. ing a king bed, daybed and indoor
If you dining area. of course, all these
ever feel like come with a price tag to match.
indulging in one unique approach that is
the lifestyle common to all live-aboard boats
of the rich in the Maldives is that the diving
sleep, dive, eat, sleep… and famous, is always done off a traditionally-
After the first dive is a book the crafted dhoni boat, which follows
hot breakfast, a quick 40 Four season’s the main vessel like a puppy dog.
winks, a dive at about Island explorer. compressors, tanks and dive gear
11am, followed by lunch, the cabin stay on the dhoni for the entire trip.
a longer snooze, a dive at of the vessel they serve strictly as a dive platform,
about 2:30 pm, followed boasts hotel- as well as a pick up boat. this is an
by a snack, and if you feel sized rooms excellent idea and a hard act to
up to it, a night dive before measuring 20 follow elsewhere; compressor noise is
dinner and back to bed. square meters not exactly music neither to ears nor
these vessels are neatly furnished, raphers appreciate not having to lavishly furnished with contemporary lullaby for that all-important snooze
with the comfort of en-suites, share the reef with “ferry” loads of teak wood and complemented by between dives.
individual control air conditioning, divers from other boats and resorts. soft furnishings of of subdued tones. Unless otherwise pre-arranged,
hot water, and offer everything from Rinse tanks for cameras are sensi- All cabins are air-conditioned and most dive safaris begin and end at
fine wine and palatable Western bly positioned along side an outdoor feature twin beds (that can be con- the airport. For those flying out in the
cuisine to Asian delights. shower. Work area and storage verted to a king bed), couch, writing evening, the afternoon may be an
these boats are also particularly areas for cameras are lavish and desk, mini bar, satellite tv, vcD and ideal chance to visit Male. transfer
“photographer friendly” by diving one can choose to recharge batter- music system, telephone, in-cabin by dhoni to Male, the country’s
the well-known sites at times when ies in the cabins or in the saloon. the safe and en-suite bathroom with capital Island, from the airport costs
there are never any other divers better boats are now installed with large bath tub/shower, and double Us$5 and is well worth a visit if you
around. I am also sure non-photog- a digital studio and some extend to vanity. have a spare afternoon.
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The myriad of life in every imaginable and unimaginable colour and form is signature of underwater
Maldives rivaled nowhere else in intensity.
the bazaar of downtown Male offers nothing on one of the most idyllic islands on can be classified into two groups: dives
souvenirs catering to every tourist’s fancy earth. outside the atoll and dives inside the
and delight; hand painted t-shirts, fish atoll.
designed playing cards, fish guides, cheap Insight into Safari Diving Dives outside the atolls are generally
sculptures, postcards, coconut monkeys though many of the dive sites in the done during an outgoing current, where
and silverware are all on bargain as long as Maldives are suitable for inexperienced visibility is better than inside the atoll.
the exchange is for Uncle sam’s dollars. divers, raging and unpredictable down typical terrain is a steep slope that goes
If you are arriving early for a safari trip, currents have through the years been down in steps or a wall that plunges
overnight stay at the airport hotel or one in responsible for many diving accidents. into dark abyssal depths. these are the
Male may be required. note: do not bring A safety sausage with an 8m line sites for great pelagics, hammerheads,
any duty free alcohol into the Maldives—it attached to the opening should be eagle rays and whale sharks. stick close
will be confiscated on arrival. You will not a mandatory accessory for all divers. to the reef unless you wish to hitch a
find a single bar or bottle shop in Male especially diving in area known for boat ride to burma or Africa—both are a long
either. but don’t despair, most safari boats traffic, you should first deploy the safety way away.
are licensed to sell beers and fundamental sausage 5m from the surface. this will warn Dives inside the atoll are on the inner unbelievable abundance are predictable dives. the ocean flushes into the atoll and
liquor mixes. boaters of the presence of divers in the reef and submerged reefs dives. Generally, at these sites and as most are territorial out again through these channels. Like a
to make the most of every diving day on water, as well as attract the attention of they are safe and easy diving for all species, familiar faces are found in each great plumbing system, each incoming
a safari, it is a good idea to stay for a day the pick up boat. levels, especially when they are not in place year after year unless otherwise tide brings clean, nutrient rich water while
or two in one of the resorts near Male to off With the exception of a few sites, most of the vicinity of a channel and are dived exploited by selfish and bad human beings. outgoing tides wash out the dirty water.
gas as well as to practice the art of doing the diving in the Maldives is drift dives that with an incoming current. Reef fishes in Diving in the channels are high-pressure obviously, the best time to dive these
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Rainbows above the sea rival rainbow
reefs below the waves; Lobsters guard
their vibrantly coloured territories;
beLoW: two remora fish catch an easy Maldives
ride on the underside of a Manta
channels is during incoming tide when current direction.
visibility is at the optimum to watch on one of my trips, a Maldivian
pelagics, tunas, jacks and sharks divemaster predicted incoming tides
hanging out to feed at the mouth of for all the three channel dives within
the channels. a ten-hour period for the next day of
the best staging area to watch the diving. A law professor challenged
show is close to the reef but away from the briefing. his ego was reduced to
the mouth of the channel at a 20–30m a smitten the next day after the third
depth. If caught in the incoming dive. there is a moral somewhere in
current too soon, especially in this story—listen to your divemaster,
shallower depths, you will miss the show especially if he is Maldivian. Inside the
entirely but the ride is guaranteed to atolls, water often runs in or out long
give the adrenaline a work out. after the tide has turned. precise and
the currents in the Maldives long term data on tidal ranges, flows
defy even the most experienced and patterns are non-existent in the
oceanographer. the theory of the Maldives.
‘seven and a quarter hour’ tidal beware, the Maldives is like eating
change cannot be used to predict the M&Ms—addictive—once is never
time for slack water and change of enough. the myriad of life in every
imaginable and unimaginable colour a realm of reef fishes in extraordinary the name. because of the profusion of
and form is signature of underwater abundance. I call the Maldives the multi-coloured reef life on this reef, it is also
Maldives rivaled nowhere else in intensity. fish pond of the Indian ocean. since commonly known as the Rainbow Reef.
If I had to choose three words to describe 1996, I have made at least one yearly between the tides, an enormous flow
the diving in Maldives, they would be pilgrimage to the Maldives, and I will not of water oozes through this thila. jacks,
“predictably great” and “abundance”. hesitate a second time each year. blue striped (Lutjanus kasmira) snapper,
Underwater Maldives is remarkably once DIve, a UK-based dive magazine, groupers and fusiliers indulge in a sea of
different from the surface—a metropolis asked me to name the top ten dive sites nutrients. Lurking amidst the corridors of a
of never ending reefs composed of in the Maldives. It was a huge task! After luxuriant coverage of iridescent corals are
ridges, mountains, valleys, and fjords, much deliberation, I chose ten sites that I red coral groupers, giant cods, napoleon
columns and chasms extending right will religiously turn to each year, as I can wrasse, and scorpionfish. eagle rays are
out to the edge of the atolls. outer predictably say that I will find mantas, often seen soaring majestically near the
atoll slopes or walls plummet steeply to huge napoleon wrasse, sharks, sea turtles, surface, undeterred by swift moving
oceanic mountains, and the mountains lush soft corals at these sites, and where water. this is one of my favorite dives in
themselves drop to abyssal depths of 2km I am not sure of the number of whale the world!
and beyond. sharks have swam right pass me when my With swift currents, the substrate on the
because the Maldives sit in the middle focus was on shooting an orange blenny reef top is typical of such environs, hard
of the Indian ocean, great migratory the size of a green pea! corals abound with anthias frolicking
currents flow through the atolls, leaving among stumps of green coral trees. From
behind rich plankton to procreate. Like Top 10 15m to 25m, carpets of red, yellow, irides-
an oasis in a desert sea, pelagics often Following are ten dive sites not to be cent purple soft corals, orange sponges
drop in to check out the local scene. missed on a Maldives safari trip. and cup corals cover the outcrops and
hammerheads, whalesharks, tunas and overhangs, from wall to wall, from floor
oceanic white tips are frequent visitors. Rainbow Reef or hp Reef to ceiling. the plethora of soft corals in
tidal currents flushing through the north Male Atoll. nearest Resort: purple, yellow, orange, pink, red, white
channels brings a constant food source Maldives Four seasons at Kuda huraa. and blue explodes like paint splash over
into the atolls, sustaining spectacular My assumption is that hp is short for ‘high three enormous coral heads and over-
soft coral growth, which in turn supports power’ as the dive has a lot to do with hangs. With such a profusion of corals
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LeFt to RIGht: Lobster; schools of barracudas and jacks are predictably found between coral heads; Divers
inspect lush overhangs laden with coral; Diver finds a group of oriental sweetlips hovering in a cave
OKOBE Thila realise that animals of the ocean have divers of the Maldives.
north Male Atoll. indeed a memory, and are capable of just before the
nearest Resort: bandos responding and playing just like any of us. sunrise, schooling
this site comprises of three coral If left alone, these fish live up to 50 years in hammerhead
heads, the largest—an ox-bow the wild. sharks (sphyra
shape—is 265 ft (80m) in length, A cavern beneath the most easterly lewini) emerge from
separated from the two smaller coral head is home to a resident group the depths to this
mounts by a 100ft(30m) wide and of 20 or so oriental sweetlips. schools of corner on queue
80ft (25m) deep canyon. A family barracudas, batfish, surgeonfishes and each morning.
of three napoleon Wrasses are jacks are predictably found hovering chances of seeing
in kaleidoscopic colours, Rainbow Reef is resident on this reef. Apparently, German between coral heads. the flow of nutrients them are good, but
aptly named. divers seeking soul mates in a most unlikely feeds the reef; green tubastrae coral without daylight, it
however, it is after dark that the reef place befriended this family by feeding branch out among outcrops of luscious soft makes publishable images tough. they Nassimo Thila
really shows its true colours; the orange them hard-boiled eggs. the feeding of any coral highlighted with tapestries of orange, are known to turn up in big numbers. big north Male Atoll. nearest Resort: paradise
and yellow tubastrae blooms along side marine animal has since been banned by purple and green Anthias fish, covering the Dog-tooth tunas (Gymnosarda unicolor) the main attraction of this thila is the series
plethora of soft corals in every conceivable the authorities, but these gregarious fish still walls of the canyon in entirety. not all dives and Dolphinfish (crayphaena hippurus) of large pinnacles scattered just off the
colour with their tentacles outstretched to see terra firma beings as a source of a free at okobe thila are great—some are only also lurk at the reef edge together with reef on the northeastern side. purple and
feed in the night current. While parrotfishes hand out. they are known to follow divers good. schools of black snapper to feed in the yellow soft corals like marshmallows cover
sleep, the nocturnal morays are seen on for an entire dive. to get them close, really morning current. there are many other the surface and overhangs in entirety.
the prowl for an unwary fish or lobster. If I close, just hold out your hand and wave Rasdhoo — Madivaru Corner hammerhead points in the Maldives, but napoleon Wrasse and jacks are frequently
were to do one last dive in the Maldives, it secretly with cupped hand before hiding it north Ari Atoll. nearest Resort: Kuramathi Rasdhoo is the most well known. found swimming in unison among corridors
would be a night dive on Rainbow Reef. again. We were contented to once again this site has its fame amongst seasoned full of squirrelfishes and orange Fairy
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scorpionfish are found in abundance. pelagic action in the sea. the staging offers a swift 2km ride into the channel
nassimo thila is another one of the area is outside the atoll. Drop into the in 3-4 knot current. Guraidhoo offers
best dive sites in the Maldives. Drop reef slope to about 25m and head more of a roller coaster ride; a
me there any day, I may just find my towards the mouth of the channel whirlpool effect cause by numerous
camera. cautiously. believe me, you will know overhangs tends to drag divers up
when you get there. best viewing and down during the journey into
Guraidhoo Kandu area: hang out at about 28m and the atoll—stay close to the reef at all
& Embudhoo Express watch the greatest show on earth. times.
south Male Atoll. nearest Resorts: Flocks of eagle rays soar like stealth
Fun Island, Kandooma and bombers, grey and white tip sharks in Kuda Giri
embudhoo village. With 4-6 knot uncountable numbers whiz back and south Male Atoll.
current conditions, these sites are for forth the entrance while jacks, tunas, nearest Resort: palm tree Island
experienced divers only. beware, rainbow runners and fusiliers engage this is an excellent dive site for both
the current boils on the surface on in a chaotic melee right in front of day and night dives. situated on the
both channels. Must be dived during you. Look out for a couple of large leeward side of a large reef, there is
incoming current to see the pelagics. tame napoleons, they are so to speak little current. this coral head is almost
embudhoo express and Guraidhoo local identities at the site—familiar perfectly round with a vertical wall
Kandu are easily the most exhilarating faces that you can look upon for reaching a depth of 30m. Kuda Giri
basslets. towards the right of the dives in the Maldives in terms of pure comfort when the going gets tough. is one of my personal favorites for
pinnacles is a long cavern system adrenaline rush. both dives are a Masks are known to have flown. many reasons; there are a few swim
between 15m and 20m lusciously challenging experience, testing skills once bored with the show or when through caves between 10–15m LeFt to RIGht: clownfsh guard their anemone home; hard corals
decorated with blue soft corals in current conditions to the extreme, air is down to 100 bars, take off for a with their entire wall covered with decorate the reef; underwater photographer visits with Manta ray;
and sea fans. Red Groupers and but the reward is some of the best ride of your life. embudhoo express yellowed sponges, soft corals, oyster beautiful bouquets of white, orange and yellow soft corals dangle
from an overhang
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beLoW: bright yellow, red, pink and orange soft coral display Maldives
abundance on this reef is While schools of snappers search for prey is felt in wave after
incredible. the thila is about 80 and batfish hover beneath coral wave of electrifying melee. even
meters in diameter and can be trees, lone Great barracudas the bold divers are on guard.
easily circumnavigated in one play havoc with the fusiliers. blue- Moray eels are seen leaving their
dive—that is if you can resist other faced angelfish, clown triggerfish, holes to search for unsuspecting
distractions. blue triggerfish, Dog-tooth tuna, prey. octopuses are sighted in
the top of the reef starts at six hawksbill turtles, jacks, moray eels, ambush position for a shellfish in
meters, sloping to 12m, before stonefish, and Anglerfish are all passing. Marble Rays appear out
dropping to beyond 30m. caves, part of the ensemble that make of the dark to sweep on sand
overhangs and ledges are found this reef one of the greatest in the patches for shellfishes, bloating up
all along the reef wall. though Maldives. occasionally when they land on an
solidly built, Grey Reef sharks are the best action is always found ill- fated prey.
common, but it is the number of on the side that faces into the I was so impressed with Maaya
White-tip sharks that are impressive. currents. beg on your knees to do thila that I have selected the
they are everywhere. a night dive on this reef—it is a site to be the location for my first
Millions of anchovies disperse highlight of anyone’s diving career. feature documentary—a 24-hour
and regroup to form a variation of In terms of action, Maaya thila is documentation about life on a
shapes stealing the show from the dramatic after dark. sharks seem coral reef system. Mayaa thila is a
Grey sharks and their companions, to zoom in from every direction. marine protected area.
the Rainbow Runners. their sense of urgency and hungry
shells and are home to numerous best dive during in-coming current; on the eastern side of the
big-eyed soldier fish. some of most if caught in an outgoing, surface channel is Fotteyo Falhu, a fringing
photogenic clownfish I have ever close to the outer reef. this dive is a reef rising to a sand cay; the
seen live at the mouth of these real treat, regarded by many as the coral formation appears to be
swim-throughs. Most of them are of best in the Maldives. I have dived untouched. prolific large coral
the clarkii species, but their choice this site six times and have fought to plates are scattered over the reef
of home (anemones with white absorb each impression. Immense slope as far as the eye can see.
tentacles), makes them look like has a whole new meaning. beware of accidentally
playful ermines in snow. beware, Fotteyo has many possibilities; wandering into ‘trigger valley’, a
ill-tempered moray eels live among schooling jacks, tunas, sharks, turtles, sand cay on the right side of the
them. napoleon, snappers. but what channel. titan triggerfish by the
Around the giri, groups of friendly make Fotteyo special is the series hundreds are local denizens, and
batfish are predictably found of caves between 25–40 m which they are mean and foul-tempered.
hovering near the surface. turtles, are covered by some very unique they attack divers for no rhyme or
nurse sharks and White-tips take soft corals not found in similar form reason.
refuge within the many caverns or abundance any where else in If you make an effort to rise
around the giri. If you like wrecks, the Maldives or in the world. the before daybreak, Fotteyo is another
there is a very well behaved steel thick, lush soft yellow and purplish hammerhead point. I was keen
wreck in perfect condition, sitting soft corals are overgrown in to see them, and predictably,
upright from 20 to 35m. Kuda Giri exaggerated fashion. we found them, or they found us,
is an extremely productive site for these caverns have been drifting in the blue at half past six in
underwater photographers. described by guidebooks as the the morning.
cherry caves of the Maldives.
Fotteyo their intensity and lushness often Mayaa Thila
Felidhoo Atoll. enthralls the first timer; prepare to Ari Atoll. nearest resort: Mayaafushi
nearest Resort: Alimathaa be breathless on first sight. In terms of fish life, the sheer
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cod, triggerfish, pufferfish and pipefish to April. the staging area is the outer reef, south
in various combinations of colours lurk side of Rangali Kandu. During the northeast
among the corals and gaps. monsoon, this is the best manta point in the
Moving through this gap in a slow Maldives. During outgoing current, the mantas—
current, subliminally evokes feelings of a big mantas—are found swimming up and down
journey through an artist’s paint box. this the reef slope to feed on nutrient rich water from
site bears its name from the international within the atoll. Descend to the reef edge about
pantone colour Matching system (pMs 10m, swim along with the edge. Mantas are seen
colour) used by graphic designers, here enjoying themselves at cleaning stations as
printers, painters all over the world. the well as dancing blithsomely in the blue. Attempts
pMs swatches comprise of more than to approach them will make them swim away;
500 colours varying in hue and contrast. just hover and watch, and in most instances,
panettone is the most colour intense they will swim right up to you to meet eye to eye.
Panettone dive in the Maldives. A school of Giant trevally this is one special place in the Maldives where
Ari Atoll. nearest resort- Moofushi (caranx ignobilis) is denizen of panettone, big gentle animal encounters are predictably
panettone sits in the middle of Kalhahandhi though not necessary attracted by the colours good. on a few occasions, I have seen flocks of
Kandu. As water flushes back and forth, this giri but the bottomless pantry of tasty morsels. the 30 to 50 Mobula rays flying in formation through
receives replenishment on a continuous basis. channels are ideal country to look out for reef this reef. but the reef top here is a good enough
A long overhang between 12m to 25m along sharks, Dog-tooth tunas, eagle Rays and Mantas. reason to distract one’s attention from the
the reef wall is covered floor to ceiling with a mantas—find turtles, clownfish, octopus, schools
plethora of multi-colored soft corals, sea fans, Madivaru/ Manta Point of bannerfish, powder blue surgeonfish plus a
sea whips, and sponges. squirrelfish, Angelfish, Ari Atoll. nearest Resort: hilton Rangali school of over three thousand bright yellow blue- LeFt to RIGht: Manta rays enjoy cleaning stations on the reefs where
Fairy basslets, butterflyfish, scorpion-fish, coral the season for manta at this site is from january striped Snappers. ■ cleaner fish tend to them; swirling school of blue-striped snappers; fun in
the sun is ample on a tradition Maldivian boat called a ‘dhoni’
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fact file
Ihavandhippolhu thiladhunmathee
Atoll Atoll
RIGht: Location of
the Maldives Islands Miladhunmadulu
Maamakunudhoo Atoll
on global map Atoll
FAR RIGht: Map of Arabian Sea Foodhippalhu
Maldives Islands Atoll
Maalhosmadulu
Maldives
Atoll
Goidhoo Atoll Male
Atoll
Ari
Atoll
100 mi Male
100 km
Felidhoo
soURces: YAnn sAInt Yves, MIchAeL AW, Atoll
Us cIA WoRLD FAct booK, scUbADoc.coM nilandhoo
Atoll
Indian Malaku
Atoll
Ocean
history Archaeologists conclude that multi-party system were held. Mohamed agriculture and manu- Kolhumadulu
Atoll
the Maldives Islands have been a port nasheed, a political activist previously facturing, which conti- hadhdhunmathee
of business since antiquity, but the cer- jailed by the former regime several years nue to play less and less Atoll
tainties concerning their history appear earlier, defeated Gayoom in a runoff of a role in the economy. huvadhoo
only from the second century. the poll. challenges facing the new presi- A majority of staple foods must Atoll
Arabic traders nicknamed them then the dent include strengthening democracy be imported. About 7% of GDp is eQUAtoR
Laccadive Sea
0º
“Islands of Money” because of one local and combating drug abuse and poverty. generated by industries such as garment Currency 20.5 Maldivian
shell, the cauris, was internationally used Government: republic. Legal system: production, boat building, and handi- ruppies (MvR)= 1€ (2008), Addu
as currency. cowries were used interna- based on Islamic law with english com- crafts. In 1989, the Maldivian Government but many resorts show pric- Atoll
tionally as bargaining chips. mon law used mostly in commercial mat- began an economic reform program, es in Us dollars and in euro.
the portuguese came to the islands ters. capital: Male. lifting import quotas and opening some Diving If the Maldives Islands can be a
in the 17th century. the Maldives Islands exports to the private sector. Regulation Population 385,925 (july 2008 est.) true paradise for the diver, it is necessary
became successively a Dutch protector- Geography the Maldives Islands have been liberalized regulations to allow Malé, the capital city of the Maldives, is o know that what you will see depends
ate in the 18th century, then british in 1880 are located in southern Asia. they are more foreign investment. the December home to 27 percent of the population. essentially on the experience of the cap-
by the signature of an agreement official- a group of atolls in the Indian ocean, 2004 tsunami rampaged the islands and ethnic groups: south Indians, sinhalese, tain and on the dive director. the one
izing this status and recognizing Maldivian south-southwest of India at coordinates: left more than 100 dead, 12,000 dis- Arabs. Religion: sunni Muslim. Internet or the other can be replaced at the
sovereignty. the country obtained its 4 10 n, 73 30 e. surface area: 90,000 km² placed, and property damage of over users: 33,000 (2007) drop of a hat, risking a missed opportuni-
independence in 26 july 1965, and (ocean makes up 99.9 percent). terrain: $300 million. however, there has been a ties to see the good stuff on the way to
became a member of the Uno. In 1968, flat islands with white sandy beaches. rebound in tourism since then, as post-tsu- Language national language is the main show. Inquire about the staff,
it became a republic. coastline: 644 km. Lowest point: Indian nami reconstruction, and development Maldivian Divehi—a dialect of sinhala crew and supposed route to the dive site
elected to six successive terms via ocean 0 m. highest point: unnamed of new resorts helped the economy to with a script derived from Arabic. Working before leaving the dive center.
single-party referendums, president location on Wilingili island in the Addu quickly recover. even so, high oil prices language is english.
Maumoon Abdul Gayoom dominated Atoll 2.4 m. note: the Maldives are 1,190 and imports of construction material has Phone country code is 960.
the islands’ political scene for 30 years. coral islands grouped into 26 atolls (200 increased the trade deficit. challenges habits & Customs You are in a cell phones can easily connect to some
Riots in the capital Male in August 2004, islands are inhabited and 80 islands have facing the country include diversi- Muslim country. nudism and the monokini networks almost everywhere. Depending
led to the president and his govern- tourist resorts). the archipelago has a fying beyond tourism and fishing and are totally forbidden and liable to strong on your network – GsM roaming is enabled
ment pledging to implement democratic strategic location adjacent to sea lanes increasing employment. Global warming fines. It is the same at resorts. Light dresses for some carriers. For Australia is telecom
reforms with a more representative politi- in the Indian ocean. and erosion are a real worry over the are frowned upon in the city and outside or optus and singapore is starhub, M1 and
cal system and more political freedoms. longer term for the Maldivian authorities. island hotels. Going topless is totally pro- singtel – check with your provider for ser-
however, progress in many promised Economy Maldives’ largest industry is eighty percent of the area in this low-lying hibited and punished even at resorts. vice and charges. since 2002, I was able
reforms were slow in coming. Yet, in 2005, tourism, which accounts for 28% of GDp country is just one meter or less above to check email using my GsM phone on all
political parties were legalized, and by and more than 60% of the Maldives’ sea level. Gastronomy my safari trips in the Maldives.
june 2008, a constituent assembly (the foreign exchange receipts. Import duties the Maldivian cuisine is simple and eas-
“special Majlis”) finished writing a new and tourism-related taxes make up over Climate tropical, hot and humid with a ily accessible, although you can dive a Time Utc+5 (GMt/Zulu +5)
constitution, which was ratified by the 90% of government tax revenue. the dry, northeast monsoon from november little into the local life, on an island, or to
president. second leading sector is fishing. the limi- to March and a rainy, southwest mon- Malé. otherwise, resorts offer a variety of Links
In october 2008, the first-ever presiden- ted availability of cultivable land and the soon from june to August. cooking, often dominated by Indian cui- Maldives tourist promotion board
tial elections under a multi-candidate, shortage of domestic labor constrains sine. www.visitmaldives.com ■
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In face of climate change
Maldives seek to buy a new homeland
The Maldives’ newly-elected president has said that his government will begin saving to buy a new
homeland in case global warming causes the country to disappear into the sea.
to create a “sovereign wealth the president, a human rights
the inhabitants of the Maldives • The highest land point in
fund” from the dollars gener- activist who swept to power
do not want to end up like the Maldives is 2.4 metres
ated by “importing tourists”, after ousting Maumoon Abdul
Atlantis. the new president above sea level, on Wilingili
in the way that Arab states Gayoom, the man who once
of the Maldives, Mohamed island in the Addu Atoll
have done by “exporting imprisoned him, said he had
nasheed, has said he wants to
oil”.“Kuwait invests in com- already broached the idea
set up a fund to acquire land • The Intergovernmental Panel
panies, we will invest in land” with a number of countries
in other parts of the region on climate change pre-
nasheed said. “We do not and found them to be “recep-
and buy a new homeland dicts that sea levels could
want to leave the Maldives, tive”.
for his people. “We cannot rise by 25-58cm by 2100
but neither do we want to live
do anything to stop climate
like refugees in tents for many
change, so we are forced to environmentalists say the issue • The country comprises 1,192
years” he added.
buy land somewhere else”, raises the question of what islands grouped around 26
nasheed, told the english daily rights citizens have if their Indian ocean atolls. only
the Guardian last month. he wants somewhere within homeland no longer exists. “It’s 250 islands are inhabited.
the region - possibly India or sri an unprecedented wake-up the population is 380,000
Fund Lanka. he said sri Lanka and call,” said tom picken, head of
the idea is to create a sov- India were targets because international climate change • The main income is from
ereign wealth fund with rev- they had similar cultures, cui- at Friends of the earth. “the tourism, with 467,154 people
enue from tourism in the style sines and climates. Australia Maldives is left to fend for itself. visiting in 2006
of those of the oil-producing was also being considered It is a victim of climate change
Arab countries. because of the amount of caused by rich countries.”
nasheed said he intended unoccupied land available.
The Maldives holds the Mohamed nasheed is the current president of the Maldives.
he is the founder and the Maldivian Democratic party and
record for being the low- was its presidential candidate in the october 2008 presiden-
est country in the world, tial election, defeating long-time president Maumoon Abdul
Gayoom in a second round of voting. he was sworn in as
with a maximum natu- president on november 11, 2008. nasheed is commonly
InDIAn MInIstRY oF coMMUnIcAtIon
ral ground level of only known in the Maldives
as Anni and is a former
2.3 m with the average member of parliament
for Malé. he was an out-
being only 1.5 m above
nAsA/GsFc/MetI/eRsDAc/jARos
spoken critic of Gayoom
sea level, though in areas and his policies. Due to
his criticism of the gov-
where construction exists ernment, over the years
this has been increased to he was arrested and sen-
tenced several times.
several metres. soURce: WIKIpeDIA
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Whale Shark Park Maldivian Protection Area
text by Dennis Kaandorp,
euro-Divers Diva Maldives
photos courtesy of Dennis
Kaandorp and Yann saint Yves
On 4 December 2008, the first Maldives
Whale shark protection Area (MpA)
meeting was hosted on the beautiful five-
star deluxe resort island, Diva Maldives,
located in the south Ari Atoll. the Maldives
Whale shark Research programme
(MWsRp) has been established by an
international team of biologists, who since
2006, have been working to build up a
profile of the whale shark population in
the Republic of Maldives. the MWsRp
has been invited by the former Minister of
tourism and civil Aviation, Dr shaugee, to
assist in a community driven initiative to
designate south Ari’s southern outer reef as
a ‘national whale shark park’. the MWsRp
is working hard to build strong relationships
with local community representatives, and
as a result, preliminary discussions with
resort managers, dive center managers
and island chiefs in the region regarding
the development of a marine protected
area have been very positive.
the meeting’s aim was primarily to
initiate this development by bringing
together, for the first time, partners in this
fight. In the meeting gathered were from
the local islands: Ahmed Qasim, Ahmed
junah (assistant island chief and airport
development
manager from
Maamigili), Mohamed
Abdulla (assistant
island chief Dhidhoo),
hussain Fayaz (school
headmaster Digurah),
Ibrahim hassan
(assistant island chief
Digurah)—and from
Fenfushi—shahid
Abdul Raheem
(island chief). but
also representatives
from the resort
island were present.
Diva Maldives was
represented by both
the general manager
DennIs KAAnDoRp
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travel Maldives
strong relationships with local
community representatives
and as a result preliminary
discussions with resort
managers and island chiefs
in the region regarding the
development of a marine
protected area have been
very positive.
At the moment, the south
Ari Atoll is one of the only
places in the world known
to have year-round Whale
sharks. this, combined with
a big variety of dive sites,
makes it one of the top dive
YAnn sAInt Yves
thIs pAGe: snorkeling divers are dwarfed by the gentle giants. RIGht: team members
johnny Matis, the resident manager conservation initiatives within the
Xavier Arnoux, and the euro-Divers Dive Maldives.
center manager, Dennis Kaandorp. since 2006, the MWsRp
From neighboring resorts euro-Divers has been investigating the
vilamendhoo Dive center Manger Mike demographics and behavioral
cristiani was there and representing ecology of the Maldivian whale
holiday Island and sun Island, thomas shark sub-population though
Weber was present. From the initiators photo identification, prey
of the MWsRp, we had Adam harman, surveys and collaborating on
Morgan Riley and Richard Rees. international genetic analysis
the goal of the MWsRp is to be a and satellite tagging projects.
Maldivian-run program that exists to Over three distinct field work DennIs KAAnDoRp
facilitate perpetual whale shark research periods, the program has logged
projects and to foster community- over 350 whale shark encounters, and gave a presentation to the Ministry of destinations, not just in the
focused conservation initiatives within the by utilizing photo-identification software, tourism and civil Aviation and the Ministry world, but also in the Maldives.
Maldives. a database of 100 individual sharks has of the environment, energy and Water on Yet, we have to do our share
the Maldives Whale shark Research been compiled. the MWsRp are also the status of the whale shark population. in protecting these magical
programme (MWsRp) has been currently conducting a nationwide survey on the strength of the evidence creatures. certain rules have
established by an international team of to investigate whether there are any presented, it was requested that a to be made to protect them YAnn sAInt Yves
biologists, who since 2006, have been other significant whale shark aggregation workshop be organized for the MWsRp to as much as possible. Many
working to build up a profile of the whale sites in the archipelago. discuss best-practices with key industry Whale sharks here, like other creatures as their legacy to their children.
shark population in the Republic of the program has been working closely stakeholders. this workshop, also held in places in the world, bare scars from As result of the meeting, all gathered
Maldives. the goal of the MWsRp is to be with the government, tour operators and june, was successful and the resulting encounters with humans. this can be agreed to set up a committee to achieve
a Maldivian-run program that exists to local communities to make currently whale shark encounter policy has been avoided by education and regulation. the goal. More meetings are expected to
facilitate perpetual whale shark research unregulated whale shark directed tourism officially endorsed by the government. It became clear during the meeting take place soon. ■
projects and to foster community focused sustainable. In june 2008, the MWsRp the MWsRp has worked hard to build that the Maldivian themselves see these
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silver
www. seacam.com