Hair Care
intelligence behind beauty
LIQUID HAIR & SKIN CONDITIONERS MADE FROM STARCH
IMPROVING THE PERFORMANCE OF
COSMETIC PRODUCTS Vergleich mit PQ 10
The essence of a successful cosmetic product lies in the
Repeated conditioning and clarifying
cosmetic performance it delivers to the consumer’s skin or 0
0
hair. The sensual experience depends on various factors like
-10
perfume, texture, skin feel of oil components and emulsifiers -0,1
combing force reduction in %
or the performance of active ingredients. And there are -20
-0,2
ingredients that can still improve products that already are -30
-0,3
close to perfect. Our Amylomer range of conditioners has
-40
-0,4
been designed to improve and refine the skin feel in skin care
products and the hair conditioning performance in shampoos -50
-0,5
and conditioners. The basic ingredient of these raw materials -60
-0,6
is Amylose, which is a natural polymer from starch. Thus -70
-0,7
the brand name Amylomer explains the nature of this
-80
class of compounds. Produced on the basis of renewable -0,8
materials and chemically modified to obtain high performance, -90
-0,9
Amylomer is an ideal compromise between natural sourcing
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2
cle
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po
po
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cy
and chemical engineering for the improvement of the
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as
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cosmetic performance. A variation in molecular size and
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ni
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yin
itio
degree of quaternization makes Amylomer a versatile concept
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nd
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nd
of specialized conditioners for different hair qualities. The
co
5
second generation of conditioners for hair and skin carries the
5
name . This stands for the symbiosis between symbioquat Polyquaternium -10
different types of Amylomer, which have been blended for best
results on all types of hair and on the skin. is an
Fig.1: Comparison of and Polyquaternium-10. The
easy to use, all purpose conditioner, that truly combines ease Page 1
reduction of combing forces after 5 washing procedures is comparable.
of application and a balanced cosmetic profile of conditioning A significant difference is seen in the adhesion to the hair. A neutral
with minimum build-up. shampooing can not significantly remove Polyquaternium-10 from the hair.
After a second cycle the effect is even more pronounced.
Hair conditioning has been the main target in the
development of Amylomer products. The use of different A too pronounced substantivity is normally not desired since it
molecular sizes of amylose and the chemical modification to interferes with styling possibilities. An overload of conditioner
form this class of raw materials guarantees a high flexibility as usually seen with Polyquaternium-10 also decreases
in designing valuable hair conditioners for shampoos. volume, particularly in fine hair. Therefore many hair care
Compounds with different properties are created by this professionals try to avoid accumulation of conditioners on hair
variation and we have developed perfect conditioners for because the manageability, volume and structure is reduced.
different types of hair. A combination of different Amylomer
grades in or the addition of other conditioners
open new possibilities for specialized hair care for every type Positive evaluation by hair care professionals
of hair. The balance between substantivity and removability is
90
0,9
one key to optimization of hair care products.
Shampoo L021-3 & 0,3% JR 400
80
0,8 Shampoo L021-3 & 0,3% Amylomer MIX
70
0,7
We have obtained it by combining different types of Amylomer 60
0,6
in . According to their size and chemical 50
%
0,5
modification they target different sites at the hair. This is 40
0,4
necessary, because from the follicles to the tip of the hair 30
0,3
there has been – depending on the length – a varying degree 20
0,2
of treatments and probably damage to the hair. The balance 10
0,1
between high performance and better manageability of the 0
0
hair is best seen when is compared with a
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ir
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ha
ha
ha
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market standard like Polyquaternium-10. The reduction of
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et
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pl
am
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of
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combing forces is comparable between both raw materials.
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A significant difference can be seen in an attempt to remove
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&
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the conditioner with a neutral shampoo. Polyquaternium-10
es
ftn
so
remains too strongly on the hair strongly reducing combing
forces, but creating film, that reduces the natural structure of
the hair. Fig. 2: Evaluation of two test shampoos by hair care professionals. The
same basic shampoo was formulated with Polyquaternium-10 and
, respectively.
drstraetmans · intelligence behind beauty
Skin conditioning is the second application that has Energy consumption by heating for the incorporation of
been targeted with our Amylomer. The assessment of several Polyquaternium types is another step that many producers
sample products showed us that the skin feel of cosmetics may like to avoid. Therefore cosmetic manufacturers will
and toiletries is improved by addition of certain Amylomer appreciate that Amylomer products are liquid and easy to
types. Smooth and silky skin is the result of formulations with apply. Just add the required amount of Amylomer to the
starch based . This effect can be used in rinse formulation and proceed with your common procedure. No
off products for a rich and velvety afterfeel, as well as in leave heating or hydrating is necessary. With our unique process of
on products, where a luxurious skin feel is achieved. modification and solubilization the resulting liquid is ready to
use.
Shower Gel evaluation with and without Amylomer Proven efficacy is the ground for a successful application.
1
milder better feel better wash performance performance in total
Therefore we have extensive test protocols for our raw
0,9
88%
materials. We incorporate the different types in various state
0,8 82% of the art formulations to test the performance with our In-
house facilities. Combing force measurements, curl retention
76%
0,7
% of all testpersons
0,6 65%
experiments, Rubin-Dye-tests, UV-resistance and other
0,5 tests are done to carefully evaluate the performance of our
0,4 Amylomer materials in your products. Therefore we can not
0,3 only supply valuable data for your development, but also
0,2 support you with experience and experimental work to support
0,1 12% 12% your developments in our application lab.
6% 6%
0
Natural materials are the basis for Amylomer products.
Placebo Amylomer
Renewable sources like potatoes and tapioca provide the
Fig. 3: Evaluation of the cosmetic performance of a basic shower gel, starch used for the production. The raw starch is refined and
formulated with and without the skin conditioner (n=17, chemically modified to yield cosmetic ingredients with the
non trained individuals)
desired functionalities. A 100% natural conditioning agent is
the Ecocert listed dermofeel® P-30. For the production of
Ease of application is something hardly found in starch this ingredient only chemical modifications accepted by natural
based conditioner products. Also many Polyquaternium cosmetics standards are used. It binds to the hair cuticle
types are solids, that require hydration and time to restore the natural lubrication on the hairs’ surface, thus
consuming procedures to dissolve them in the formulation. decreasing the combing force and improving the hair condition.
Active
Name INCI Source
substance
Amylomer H-NI Aqua, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch
26% - 28% Potato
Succinate
Amylomer 50 M Aqua, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium
19% - 21% Potato
Chloride
Amylomer CAS 50 M Aqua, Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch
24% - 26% Cassava
PG-Trimonium Chloride
Amylomer H 75 M Aqua, Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch
27,5% - 29,5% Potato
PG-Trimonium Chloride
Aqua; Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,
Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch 17% – 19% Potato
PG-Trimonium Chloride
dermofeel® P-30 PCA Glyceryl Oleate 100% Vegetable
drstraetmans · intelligence behind beauty
OUR REPRESENTATIVES ABROAD
Europe Asia/Pacific
Benelux Iran
Jan van Laarhoven-Waalwijk b.v. Tooska-E-Khorasan Trading Co.
E-Mail: laarhoven@planet.nl E-Mail: hrt@tooskaco.com
www.tooskaco.com
Bulgaria
Biesterfeld Pro Specialty Chemicals Israel
E-Mail: pavel.makedonski@biesterfeldpro.com Efal chemical industries ltd.
www.biesterfeldpro.com E-Mail: roni@efal.com
www.efal.com
Croatia
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie d.o.o. Korea
E-Mail: gordana.peric@biesterfeld.hr HANA Trading Company
www.biesterfeld.hr E-Mail: Hoffnung@hitel.net
Czech Republic Phillippines
Biesterfeld Silcom s.r.o. CTC Far East Phils. Inc.
E-Mail: terezie.sestakova@bisi.cz E-Mail: faith@ctcfareastphils.com
www.bisi.cz www.ctc-group.com
Denmark/Iceland/Norway Thailand
Bionord A/S Adinop Co. Ltd.
E-Mail: info@bionord.dk E-Mail: mail@adinop.co.th
www.bionord.dk www.adinop.co.th
France Australia/New Zealand
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics S.A. RejuvaCare
E-Mail: info@lmcosmetics.fr E-Mail: smorse@rejuvacare.com.au
www.lmcosmetics.fr www.rejuvacare.com.au
Great Britain
Gemro Products Ltd.
E-Mail: stephen.blech@gemroproducts.com
Americas
www.gemroproducts.com
Argentina/Brazil
nordest nova s.a..
Greece
E-Mail: sergio.engrassi@nordest-nova.com
Cellco Chemicals Ltd.
www.nordest-nova.com
E-Mail: paraskevopoulos@cellco.gr
USA
Hungary
Kinetik Technologies, Inc.
Biesterfeld Special Chemicals Hungary Ltd.
E-Mail: chj@kinetiktech.com
E-Mail: l.vereckei@biesterfeld.hu
Web: www.kinetiktech.com
www.biesterfeld.hu
Chile
Italy
Maprin Representaciones Ltda.
Pharma Cosm Polli srl
E-Mail: JCroxatto@Maprin.cl
E-Mail: info@pharmacosm.it
www.pharmacosm.it
Colombia
Cromaroma Ltda
Poland
E-Mail: cromaroma@etb.net.co
Biesterfeld Polska Sp.z.o.o.
E-Mail: r.borzyminska@biesterfeld.com.pl
www.chemia.biesterfeld.com.pl
Africa
Romania
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Romania S.R.L. South Africa
E-Mail: cmicu@biesterfeld.ro Meganede
www.biesterfeld-spezialchemie.ro E-Mail: megan.jones@meganede.com
www.meganede.com
Spain
Comercial Quimica Jover, S.L.
E-Mail: comercial@cqjover.com
www.cqjover.com
Sweden/Finland
Bionord AB
E-Mail: lena@bionord.se Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH
www.bionord.se
Merkurring 60–62 · D-22143 Hamburg
Switzerland
Rahn AG
Phone: +49 40-66 93 56 0 · Fax: +49 40-66 93 56 310
E-Mail: schulerg@rahn-group.com
www.rahn.ch email: info@dr-straetmans.de · www.dr-straetmans.de