India Program Handbook by Bradleystephens


									       Brown-in-India Program Handbook 2009-2010

                      Table of Contents

Introduction                         …………………………………………………2
India                                …………………………………………………3
Your Advisors in India               …………………………………………………5
Pre-Departure Information            …………………………………………………6
       -Getting a Student Visa
       -What to pack?
       -Health information
       -Recommended reading
       -Pre-departure check list
The Program                          …………………………………………………12
       -Program calendar
       -Landour Language School
       -Program costs
       -Refund policy
       -Dismissal policy
       -Other costs and expenses
Arriving in Delhi                    …………………………………………………18
       -Let the OIP know
       -Contact the US Embassy
Housing                              …………………………………………………19
       -St Stephen’s apartment
       -Lady Shri Ram apartment
College Life                         …………………………………………………22
       -Starting out
       -In and around college
Around Delhi                         …………………………………………………28
       -Cultural resources
       -Shopping and eating-out
       -Places and festivals you should not miss
       -Money and banking
Traveling Around India               …………………………………………………34
A Final Note                         …………………………………………………35


This handbook is designed to assist you with the process of preparing for your journey
to India and participation in the Brown-in-India program. It will serve to answer
questions about what to expect. An India guide book, on the other hand, will offer you
more specific information about the country itself. The “Lonely Planet” guide is geared
towards students traveling on a budget as are “The Rough Guide” and “Fodors”.

We at OIP would like to emphasize that programs in developing nations require
enormous flexibility, openness to change, and a willingness to expect the unexpected.
We emphasize this because past Brown-in-India students have read these same words,
and have reiterated upon their return that these aspects were important to a successful
stay in India.

Students who opt for this program must understand that this is not “Brown University
transplanted to India,” it is Brown at St. Stephen’s College or Brown at Lady Shri Ram.
The academic experience differs distinctly from the Brown or another American
university experience.

As you read this handbook, we urge you to ask yourself, “Is this something I want to
attempt?” “Can I accept the opportunity to develop an awareness of a different culture?”
An intercultural experience is an emotionally intense and profoundly challenging
experience for the participant.

If you have any questions or concerns about anything now or while you're away, please
contact our office immediately at the numbers/e-mail below. We accept collect calls
from students abroad so don’t hesitate because of cost.

If it’s an emergency and not during normal business hours at Brown you can call
Police & Security at (401) 863-3322. They can reach one of us at all times – ask
them to contact the staff of International Programs at home following their
emergency procedure directions from our office.

Brown University
Office of International Programs
Box 1973
Providence, RI 02912
tel     401-863-3555
fax     401-863-3311

Enjoy India!


India is one of the few countries in the world today where the social and religious
structures that define national identity have remained intact for at least 4000 years.
This despite invasions, famines, religious persecutions, political upheavals and many
other cataclysms. To describe modern India as a land of contrasts would be to state the
obvious. There are many countries which would qualify for such a description in terms
of ethnic, linguistic, religious and geographical variants, but few can match the vast
scale and diversity to be found in India.

Change is inevitably taking place as modern technology reaches further and further into
the fabric of society, yet essentially village India remains much the same as it has for
thousands of years. So resilient are its social and religious institutions that they have
absorbed or repelled all attempts to radically change or destroy them. Even in fast paced
modern cities like Mumbai, Bangalore and Delhi, what appears to be a complete change
of attitude and life style is only surface gloss. Underneath it all, the age old verities,
loyalties and obligations still rule people's lives.

There is possibly no other country where religion is so inextricably intertwined with
every aspect of life. Coming to understand it can be a long process littered with pitfalls,
particularly for those educated in the Western liberal traditions with its basis in logic.
For those people, "Indian logic" can almost seem bizarre, convoluted and even
exasperating. Yet, in its own way, it encompasses a unique cosmology which is both
holistic and coherent as well as being fascinating. India was the birthplace of two of the
world's great religions (Hinduism and Buddhism) and one of its smallest (Jainism). It's
also home to one of the world's few remaining communities of Parsis, adherents of the
faith of Zoroastrianism. Islam is among the major religions of India and it plays a large
role in shaping the religious landscape of Delhi. Christianity, too, plays a role, although
more so in Landour (where you will be doing your preliminary Hindi course), Goa,
Mumbai, Kerala (South India) and the North-Eastern States.

The modern state itself is a relatively recent creation born out of a people’s desire to
throw off the yoke of colonialism. Even the mightiest of India's ancient civilizations did
not encompass all of modern India, and today it is as much a country of diversity as of
unity. You may have heard said that there are many Indias. In terms of ethnic origin,

language and geography, that is undoubtedly true and it sometimes bedevils efforts at
creating a national consciousness. Yet, ever since Independence (1947) India has
remained the world's largest democracy.

Your Advisors in India

Program Site Coordinator: Mr. Samar Grewal

Samar will coordinate off-campus aspects of the program; from organizing airport pick-
ups to showing you around Delhi, assisting you with travel arrangements, health
emergencies and answering all your questions about Delhi and Indian life. You will be
meeting with Samar periodically (he will also conduct periodic inspections of the
apartments on a mutually convenient day). If needed, he is also available for one-on-one
meetings. Do not hesitate in asking for more assistance.

Contact information
Samar Grewal:
S-351 Panchsheel Park
New Delhi 100 017


Student Program Assistants

Brown also employs student program assistants from your respective colleges. The
students help each group (LSR & St. Stephen’s) settle into Delhi and college life. Their
role is multi-purpose, ranging from picking you at the airport, helping you to get mobile
phones, answering questions about your College and helping you make sense of society
around you. Program assistants often help you settle socially into Delhi as well as guide
you around Delhi’s markets, restaurants and clubs. Having someone fluent in Hindi
assist you is wonderful, not only does it help you get around better, it also gives you
someone with whom to practice the language. Don’t be afraid to ask any questions; the
assistants are there to help you, so get to know them as much as possible. If they are
unable to help for any reason, do not hesitate to contact Samar.

Foreign Student Advisor

The Foreign Student Advisor at St. Stephen’s is Prof Bikram Phookun and for Lady
Shri Ram is Dr Gopa Sabharwal. They will be your advisors for all matters related to
their respective colleges. Any academic or administrative concerns should be brought to
them. You will need to let them know your choice of courses and agreed-upon syllabi
early on in the first term.

Pre-Departure Information

Getting a Student Visa

For US Passport holders you will need a student visa to stay as a student in India.
Citizens of other countries should check directly with the Indian Consulate regarding
entry requirements. The Indian Consulate has recently outsourced the Visa application
process to an organization called: “Travisa Outsourcing.” It is your responsibility to
verify the required procedures/documents with this organization, to apply, and to
secure your own visa prior to your departure. It is strongly advisable to start this
process as early as possible; however, you may have to wait a bit before you receive the
following items from Brown:

•    a letter of acceptance from your host college in Delhi (St. Stephen’s or Lady Shri
•    a letter of financial support and program participation

These will be sent to you as soon as possible and you should have plenty of time to
procure your visa before you depart.

Please direct questions to Travisa Outsourcing at:

tel             212-754-9900

Past participants have said that this service works very fast.

If you have any questions or concerns after inquiring with Travisa Outsourcing, please
do not hesitate to contact Brown’s Office of International Programs at 401-863-3555.

Consular Information

Embassy of India
2107 Massachusetts Avenue N.W.
Washington, DC 20008
tel 202-939-7000


Consulate of India
3 East 64th Street
New York, NY 10021
tel 212-774-0600

What to Pack?

Regular clothing will be appropriate, keeping in mind to dress in a culturally sensitive
manner. Shorts and skirts above the knee and low-cut tops are not advisable for Delhi
wear. Most students at college, especially at St. Stephen’s, wear western garb; so do
bring a varied selection of Western clothing. However, DO NOT over pack because
there are Western stores in India (Lee’s, Pepe, United Colors of Benetton, etc) and
markets such as Sarojini Nagar are full of left-overs from companies such as Zara,
H&M, Abercrombie & Fitch and the like. In addition, you will be buying Indian clothing
that will both help you blend in on the streets of Delhi and that is better suited to wear
in the Delhi heat (i.e. light cotton). If you choose to partake in Delhi’s nightlife, do bring
a few going-out clothes. Shoes are not so important (except for men in some clubs); flip
flops suffice and fancier footwear can be bought as well. You can bring your jewelry and
make-up if you like; however both are cheap and plentiful in India.

The electric current is 220 volts (same as in Europe) so you'll need a converter if you
bring appliances. Alternatively, you can purchase appliances in the US that take both
110/220 volts. Make sure that you know what voltage your appliances can handle so
you don’t ruin them by accident. It’s advisable to bring your own laptop to write papers
and to connect to the internet. Do not bring a surge protector, they are provided in the
apartment and all have sockets accessible to both American and Indian plugs. Make sure
that you use the surge protectors; the power can go on and off at random sometimes.

Packing checklist:

a) 2-3 pairs of jeans(though these can be uncomfortable in summer)/trousers, 2-3
   skirts/shorts, 4-5 shirts/tops, 2-3 going out shirts/tops, 2-3 light long-sleeve shirts,
   1 sweatshirt.
b) One fleece jacket. A winter coat is unnecessary but a warm jacket is very useful
c) Underwear, bras, a few pairs of socks
d) Basic first-aid kit with topical antibiotic cream, gauze, tape, aspirin etc.
e) Alarm clock (battery operated is better for traveling)
f) A folding umbrella. If you want, a rain coat as well though an umbrella suffices for
   the monsoon rains. It will rain in Landour but very little in Delhi.
g) Money belt
h) Basic toiletries if you’re partial to your brand. Ladies, tampons are not easily
   available in India, so bring enough to last the whole time.
i) Sunblock
j) 1 or 2 passport photos (you'll need them for IDs, Foreigners Residents Registration
   Office). Passport photos are much, much cheaper in Delhi. You will need 10 or so
   overall and it is better to save money and wait to reach Delhi to get a whole bunch
k) Insect repellent and after-bite (especially useful at the beginning of the monsoon)
l) 1 pair of sturdy sneakers. You will need them for at least one trek, and when it gets
m) Flashlight
n) Daypack or some sort of backpack with supporting hip straps. This will be very
   useful when traveling.

Health Information

You should consult a travel clinic, such as Miriam Hospital Travel Clinic (be
persistent—they tend not to answer the phone!) here in Providence, as soon as you can
before leaving for India to discuss shots and medicines needed for travel in India. You
should also consult your own physician if you have any specific concerns about your
personal health situation. In the OIP Resource Library we also have other books about
health issues in developing countries which you may consult. The Center for Disease
Control publishes a list of all the vaccines and health precautions it recommends for
those planning a stay abroad. The CDC website is

Malaria is present in some parts of India, including Delhi, and you should consult the
travel clinic about malaria medicines. Some medicines have different side effects so make
sure you discuss all your options with a reputable travel physician because regular
general practitioners may not have the expertise to discuss options for malaria
medicines with you. If you decide to take Larium, you can save a lot of money by buying
it in India. The pills are $7 each in America and will cost you only a few rupees in India
so we suggest buying just enough to last you for the first two weeks, i.e. till you’re able
to get to a pharmacy to buy some. It is possible to contract malaria even if you do take
medication but it is easily treatable with proper medication and is not life threatening if
caught early. Also remember to discuss with your travel physician which medication to
take if you do contract malaria, so that when you are talking to an Indian doctor you
know that he/she is giving you medication that’s compatible with whatever you’re
already taking. Be consistent in taking your malaria medication. Frequent stopping and
starting only weakens your system.

It’s advisable to avoid street food for the first month or so and to be careful of which
restaurants you frequent. Program assistants are really helpful in pointing out where to
eat-out in the first few months. It may be difficult to abstain, but remember that your
system (physical, mental and emotional), is already going through so much (coping with
the changed environment, people, climate etc) that eating food which has not been
cooked very hygienically is an unnecessary risk in the beginning. Vegetables should not
be eaten raw unless you or someone you trust has prepared them, since they could have
been washed in contaminated water. Water should be boiled before use in cooking and
you should use filtered water for drinking and washing fruits and vegetables. Bottled
water is sold everywhere and is safe to drink. Both apartments are equipped with water
filters. Bring with you packets of re-hydrating salts or Gatorade mixes in case you get
diarrhea. Multi-vitamins are also helpful in case of longer-lasting Delhi Belly.

HIV, as in many parts of the world, is present in India. Please protect yourself if you are
sexually active and bring condoms with you from the USA. We would not suggest
using condoms manufactured in India (though you do get Durex here).


It is strongly recommended that students bring enough prescription medication
for their entire stay. In general, medications cannot be sent via international mail.
Prescription drugs have the additional problem of brand name-changes from place to
place. Make sure all medication is labeled clearly and keep it in the original containers
which show the prescription number.

Bring a copy of your prescription along and make sure it is clearly written and indicates
the generic name of the drug (this will mean more to an Indian doctor if you need to
explain what you are already taking). This will also facilitate customs clearance into
India because customs agents have the right to confiscate medications as illegal drugs
unless you can show they are prescriptions. In some cases a physician in India may not
fill the prescription provided by your U.S. doctor without first conducting an
examination and confirming the diagnosis.

Most over-the-counter medicines are available in Delhi, where they cost much lesser. If
you wear eyeglasses or contact lenses, it is a good idea to bring both an extra pair and
your prescription. Contact lens solutions may have different ingredients in other
countries even if it is the same brand name, so bring enough solution with you for your
entire stay, especially if you have sensitive eyes.


Be sure to consult your insurance provider for coverage overseas and remember that
most places ask for payment up-front and then expect you to get reimbursed from your
insurance provider. Contact your health insurance provider for reimbursement forms,
and please take these forms with you when you go. This will save you time since you
won’t have to write to the office here in the USA. You are responsible for knowing your
insurance policy and claims procedures. If you are carrying Brown student health
insurance, reimbursement forms are available at the Office of Insurance and Risk in the
Brown Office Building. If you have any questions regarding Brown student insurance,
you can call or write to:

Cheryl Moan
Brown University
Office of Insurance and Risk
Box 1848
Providence, RI 02912
Tel:    401-863-1703

In addition we provide you with a Brown Travel Assistance Plan which covers
evacuation and repatriation as well as some other services. This plan is provided by
International SOS ( and the contact numbers in case
of emergency are:

If calling from           Call Alarm Center in At this number
U.S. or Canada            Philadelphia, PA     1-800-523-6586
                                               Call collect:
Mexico                    Philadelphia, PA     Call collect:
South and Central America Philadelphia, PA     Call collect:
Europe, CIS, Africa       London               Call collect:
or the Middle East                             44-208-762-8008
Asia, Australia           Singapore            Call collect:
or the Pacific Rim                             65-6338-7800

When you contact them you must reference the Group membership # 11BSGC000031

The services provided by International SOS range from telephone advice and referrals
to full-scale evacuation by private air ambulance. The SOS network of multilingual
specialists operates 24 hour a day, 365 days a year from SOS Alarm Centers around the
world. However, International SOS is NOT health insurance. Requests for
reimbursement for medical care received while abroad should be submitted to
your health insurance provider.

You will also be given a wallet size card with important information on how to access
International SOS services. Please carry this with you at all times in case you need
emergency assistance. REMEMBER: In case of emergency, contact the site
coordinator as well!


June and July are among the hottest months in Delhi. The temperature will be between
110 to 118 degrees F. and even the nights don’t cool down very much. Delhi is very dry
at this time. Landour, though, will be delightful. It is at an altitude of 7,000 feet and has
perfect weather similar to fall in North-Eastern U.S. The monsoon arrives in Landour
before it does in Delhi – usually around the third week of June. It gets to Delhi around
mid-July accompanied by a fall in temperatures and rising humidity. It is unbearably
sticky until October. The constant heat can seriously drain your energy and you'll have
to take the rest and fluids that your body demands to help you stay healthy.

                                            - 10 -
Beginning in October it starts to get cooler and dryer and November is usually the start
of the Delhi winter. It is not a northeastern U.S. winter but because there is no central
heating and buildings are made of cement, they retain the cold. Room heaters take away
the chill. The day temperature by December will be high 60s-low 70s. The nights can
dip to the low 40s. If you are staying for the year, you’ll see the temperatures increase in
March. By the middle of April, Delhi will return to its July temperatures.

Some books recommended by previous students for reading before you leave:

Dalrymple, William City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi
Mistry, Rohinton A Fine Balance
Roy, Arundhati God of Small Things
Rushdie, Salman Midnight’s Children
Sainath, P. Everybody Loves a Good Drought: Stories from India's Poorest Districts
Sutcliffe, William Are You Experienced
Tharoor, Shashi India from Midnight to the Millennium
Tully, Mark No Full Stops in India

Pre-Departure Checklist

o Prepared myself: That means having read this handbook and other appropriate OIP
  publications like the current editions of “The FAQs of Study Abroad” and the
  general “Study Abroad handbook” and being mentally prepared for the challenge.
o Also read some of the above books related to India.
o Met with my concentration/major advisor to discuss any credit that I want to count
  for my concentration/major. At Brown, General credit transfers automatically.
o Checked that my passport is valid for 6 months past the last date I will be in India.
o Checked with the Indian consulate about documents required for my country of
  citizenship. Take to India ALL documents I had to take to the consulate
o Have had any medical, dental & vision check-ups as recommended
o Health insurance information (policy number, reimbursement procedures and forms,
  list of medical items covered); Proof of insurance with dates of policy
o Medication or prescriptions you need, unless you are sure that the medication is
  available in India. (Bring original prescriptions with you when you travel).
o Gave the OIP and the Delhi staff my travel schedule for my arrival
o Any personal, meaningful item that helps me relax, get centered (favorite music,
  family pictures, diary, sports gear, posters, teddy bear, clothing ...) that can fit in a

Don't bring too much stuff!! You won't need it and it will just cost a lot to mail it
back home. One suitcase ONLY and preferably not too big so you can carry it by

                                           - 11 -
The Program

Students in sarees

Brown’s exchange program with St. Stephen’s and Lady Shri Ram Colleges sends
students to St. Stephen’s and LSR and receives faculty from both colleges. As an
exchange program, Brown’s program in Delhi differs from some other study abroad
programs in India which have study centers and living quarters, and provide their own
courses. Students on the Brown program take Indian college courses, independent
studies with professors (only at LSR) and follow the normal academic schedule of their
chosen college.

Brown’s program in Delhi immerses you in an Indian academic environment with the
local students. This program works best for those who have specific academic goals
which they feel they can achieve in Delhi or for people willing to work to give their
general interests specific and focused content. Since Brown-in-India students do not
take the regular exams, the content of the readings and the papers have to largely be
determined by the student in conjunction with the professor (within the limits of St.
Stephen's or Lady Shri Ram's curriculum), which makes having a specific focus
necessary for the experience to be profitable.

                                         - 12 -
The Brown-in-India program provides a required course in Hindi and 3 other courses.
Hindi is very useful in Delhi, and you should be ready to devote some amount of effort
to learning it, in order to get the most out of the whole experience. Knowing even the
most basic of Hindi will make it easier for you to build a life in the city and explore it.
Bargaining with auto drivers, shopping, ordering food, asking for directions…
everything is made easier in proportion to how much Hindi you learn. People who are
not interested at all in learning Hindi would probably have a better time on a different
type of program.

At LSR one of your courses may be an Independent Study Project specially arranged for
your particular interests (Independent Study is not offered at St. Stephen’s). Depending
on the professor and your topic, you may be able to continue your research after
returning to your home institution. Students interested in dance or music classes may
be able to arrange instruction with a private tutor. Please check with Samar as soon as
possible for assistance in making arrangements. These classes would be considered
outside the normal Brown in India curriculum and would not appear on your official
Brown transcript at the program’s completion.

Visiting students, unlike local students, may take courses in more than one subject area,
but should be careful to arrange these so that the total course load adds up to the load of
a matriculated student. To make this clearer: You could, for example, take a IIIrd Year
course in Philosophy, a Ist Year course in History and a IInd Year course in Economics,
adding up to the normal load of 4 subjects (including Hindi), or substitute an
Independent Study Project for one course if you’re attending LSR. However, previous
Brown-in-India students recommend that if you are interested in philosophy and
economics, you take two courses in one of these subjects rather than one in each. By
doing so, you will be amongst the same group of students for two courses, rather than
in three separate groups. This will make it considerably easier to meet and befriend
local students.

Also, this may make your class schedule easier to organize. When taking classes across
different departments, you need to be careful to arrange your courses in such a way that
the time of one course does not clash with another. You will have to actively structure
your courses with the help of the Foreign Student Advisor and your professors in the
first two weeks of your time at the college. This is extremely important since the
regular Indian student appears for exams only at the end of the academic year and
Brown program students are examined at the end of their stay. You will have to
structure your academic priorities prudently.

Class schedules will be posted on one of the general notice boards at the beginning of
term. Regular classes are held from 8.45am-1pm Mondays thru Saturdays at St.
Stephen’s with accompanying tutorials sometimes stretching out till 2.30pm. LSR
classes run from 9am-3.30pm Mondays thru Fridays (Saturday is a holiday at LSR).
Afternoons at both are devoted to extracurricular activities including theater, debating,
sports and academic clubs.

If you’re thinking of taking any science classes which involve labs, be aware that the
facilities at St. Stephen’s are not currently on par with American universities. For this

                                           - 13 -
reason taking science courses is not recommended. If you are interested in taking
non-lab sciences, you should inquire as to availability and quality through the Study
Abroad Office.

Program Calendar

The program begins in mid-June, with the Landour language program. Once the college
academic year starts, you will be following the normal academic schedule.

Arrive in Delhi: June 10-11, 2009
Travel to Landour: June 14, 2009
Landour program: June 14-July 12, 2009
First Term commences: July 15, 2009
Break: October 1-15, 2009
Second Term commences: October 16, 2009
Classes end: December 22, 2009
Break: December 23, 2009-January 6, 2010
Third Term: January 7, 2010-March 20, 2010

(Last three entries approximate. Final dates to be confirmed)

Landour Language School

The Landour Language School, where you will study Hindi, takes it’s name from a
suburb of Mussoorie, a popular North Indian hill station. The school was established
over 80 years ago and the courses there are based on all those years of experience. The
teachers are carefully selected and trained by a system of examinations and have each
fifteen or more years of teaching experience. You will have three hours of language
classes every day, usually in the mornings and early afternoons. The rest of the time is
for you to study and explore Mussoorie.

While at Landour, you will have 4 classes (2 grammar classes, 2 reading and writing
classes). Your group will be subdivided into smaller groups, with each group having the
same 4 teachers in the same sequence each day. Teachers may overlap between groups.
Students have rated this as the most beneficial language-learning experience on the
program and have encouraged future students to take advantage of it. The pace of the
Hindi class later on in Delhi will be slower; and most local students may be more
inclined to speak with you in English.

                                          - 14 -
Mailing Address at Landour:

Valley View
c/o Gambhir Singh
Landour Cantonment
Uttaranchal 248 179
tel 0091-135-263 1385

                                                      Mussoorie, also known as “The
                                                      Queen of the Hills”. sits at an
                                                      elevation of 7,000 feet, offering
                                                      spectacular views of the mighty
                                                      Himalayan peaks on one side and
                                                      the Doon Valley on the other. It’s
                                                      a breathtaking experience,
                                                      viewing the valley of Dehra Doon
                                                      at night with its twinkling lights.
                                                      Mussoorie connects to the rail
                                                      head of Dehra Doon via 22 miles
                                                      of twisting hill road, originally
                                                      made for bullock carts. The
                                                      British developed Mussoorie as a
                                                      popular hill resort to escape the
intensely hot summers in the plains of North India (which means you’ll need cool
weather clothes for Landour).

Mussoorie still contains many reminders of the past. The library just below Savoy Hotel
is well over 100 years old. There are ruins of antiquated breweries and old cemeteries
with interesting gravestones dating back to Mussoorie’s early years. It is also known for
its boarding schools. In the crowded city markets, which you can get to by taxi or a
short walk down the steep main road, you can find an amazing collection of shawls. Not
far from Valley View (the house where you will be staying) is a cluster of stores named
Char Dukan (Four Shops) where you can access the internet or savor local fare ranging
from chocolate pancakes to paranthas (Indian pancakes) and momos (Tibetan

You could spend entire afternoons walking among the deodar (Himalayan cedar); trees
that have witnessed the entire history of the land, from the days when Mussoorie was
home to but a few shepherd huts and the cattle that grazed on the Mansur shrub that
would later give the place its name.

                                         - 15 -
Program Costs

In order to help you budget appropriately for your academic experience in India we
have created a cost information sheet that is available on our website and included in
your pre-departure packet. Airfare and living costs are based on our best information
but these can change quickly with exchange rate fluctuations and price changes.

For the most up-to-date cost information, please visit

Refund Policy

Any expenses that have been incurred by Brown on behalf of the student (i.e. host
institution fees, prepayment of orientation housing etc.) once the student has made a
commitment to the program (in writing and/or by submitting the program deposit),
will be the responsibility of the student and charged to the student account.

If a student withdraws from a program during the first five weeks from the start date,
he or she is eligible for a refund of Brown tuition payments based on the schedule below.
Brown is not responsible for indirect costs paid directly by the student, including,
but not limited to, passport fees, vaccinations and transportation costs.

Withdrawal prior to the start of the program                       100%
Withdrawal within the first 14 days                                80%
Withdrawal between days 15-21                                      60%
Withdrawal between days 22-28                                      40%
Withdrawal between days 29-35                                      20%
Withdrawal after day 35                                            No refund available

The same refund policy applies for students who leave because of a medical or family
emergency. A student who is suspended, dismissed or withdraws while under
investigation for misconduct, will not be eligible for a tuition refund.

Students who choose to withdraw from a program abroad and, subsequently, enroll at
Brown during the semester that corresponds to their semester abroad will be
responsible for all costs incurred by Brown up to the time they withdrew from the

If a student withdraws from a program, the deposit paid to confirm his or her place is
not refundable. For housing or fees paid directly to the host institution abroad, the
refund policy of that institution will be in effect.

Dismissal Policy

The Office of International Programs in consultation with the Site Personnel and the
Program Faculty Directors at Brown reserves the right to dismiss a student and require
that they leave immediately if in our judgment the student behaves in a manner which

                                          - 16 -
endangers him/herself, others on the program or the program’s continued operations.
Illegal drug use is grounds for immediate dismissal.

Other Costs and Expenses

Upon arrival, you will be required to pay a Housing Security Deposit of the
equivalent of about US $150 in Indian Rupees. The deposit will be refunded to you
in a check from Brown University after you have returned and the Site Coordinator has
had a damage inspection of the apartments and received the final telephone bill.

While installation and rental are paid for by Brown-in-India, actual usage charges for
internet and phone connections will be borne by you and your flat-mates.

                                         - 17 -
Arriving in Delhi

Let the OIP know your flight information

You must let the Office of International Programs at Brown know the details of your
flight into Delhi by sending at email to or a fax to 401-863-
3311.This is necessary so that we can notify our site-coordinator who will then have a
program assistant pick you up from the airport in New Delhi.

Contact the US Embassy

“All American citizens residing or traveling in India for more than 30 days or who are
planning travel in disturbed areas are encouraged to register with the Consular Section.
Through registration, the Embassy or Consulate General can know more accurately the
number and location of American citizens, should any emergency arise. It also enables a
Consular Officer to locate an individual in the event of a family or business emergency
back in the United States. The registration card requests information on the local and
permanent residences, next of kin and passport information. These cards can assist in
the replacement of a lost or stolen passport.”

As you can tell from the quote above, taken from the official guidelines for American
travelers in India, registering is not just a bureaucratic formality. The Embassy has
medical facilities and can help in cases of legal or bureaucratic problems. In addition to
the help of the Site Coordinator, they can be especially helpful if you are caught in a
tight spot while traveling.

Remember to keep a photocopy of your passport, a copy of your Indian visa, as
well as a copy of any credit or debit cards you have, separately from the actual
documents. It’s a good idea to give a copy to the Site Coordinator and to leave a
copy with someone in the USA too.

                                           - 18 -

The apartment you will be staying at in Delhi has been subleased to you in order to put
you amidst Indian city life in a safe and convenient location.

St. Stephen’s Apartment

Brown program students studying at St. Stephen's College will stay in an apartment in
the neighboring Civil Lines area, one of the oldest settlements built by the British in the
capital city. The apartment is part of a block of flats owned by a single family. This,
coupled with the security guard housed at the entrance gate and connected to each
apartment via intercom, allows for greater security. The apartment consists of 3 air-
conditioned bedrooms with attached bathrooms and all the required basic furniture, a
living-cum-dining room with TV (cable, though you will need to pay to buy balance)
and a fully-equipped kitchen.

The address is:

A9, 7 Raj Narain Road
Civil Lines
Delhi 110 054
tel 0091-11-2393 8012

A male cook, Shankar, comes in twice a day and prepares Indian lunch and dinner. This
is simple fare and not very spicy but it can be spiced-up according individual taste and
he can also prepare some western dishes such as pasta. There are a number of take-out
places in case you have special food cravings. Shankar’s wife, Rita, helps with the
cleaning of the apartment.

Food and supplies
For basic supplies, there are two main stores nearby: The Exchange Store and Suman’s
Department Store. Fruits and Vegetables are normally purchased by Rita from vendors
around the neighborhood. For more interesting grocery options, students can visit
Khan Market or INA Market, which are closer to Central Delhi. The student assistants
will guide you to all the above once you move in to the apartment.

The apartment has a washing machine (no dryer) which is easy to use. You can iron
your clothes at home too. There is also a neighborhood laundry person who charges Rs
8 for a shirt and Rs 5 for trousers.

The college is 10 minutes by autorickshaw from the apartment and the fare is roughly
Rs 20-25. You can also get there by taking the Metro to the next station outbound (the

                                          - 19 -
closest station is a 10 minute walk from the apartment) and catching a cycle rikshaw
from there for Rs 10.

Changing money
Most banks will change traveler’s checks (including Punjab National Bank next to
Oberoi Maidens nearby) but for more efficient service you should try the Thomas Cook
and American Express outlets in Connaught Place (Central Delhi, inbound on the
Metro). To withdraw money using a debit/ATM card, the best places to go to are the
Citibank branch (near Exchange Stores) or the bank on the St. Stephen’s campus.

The closest post office is on the main Delhi University Campus block and the most
efficient/well-stocked one on A-block in Connaught Place.

Besides at the apartment, St. Stephen’s has an internet facility though it is often
crowded. There is also a internet ‘café’ opposite Parmanand Hospital, a two minute walk
past Exchange Store. The rates are usually INR 30/hr). Kamla Nagar Market near
college also has a number of options.

Lady Shri Ram Apartment

Brown program students studying at L S R stay in an apartment close to college with
similar facilities as the St. Stephen's apartment.

The address is:

E-346, Second Floor
Greater Kailash Part-I
New Delhi 110 048
tel 0091-11-2924 8191

Shukla, the lady who cooks and cleans at the apartment, makes simple fare, not very
spicy and perhaps a little bland for some. But she does make Chana Masala (chick peas),
Dal Mukhni (Black lentils), Kidney Beans, Egg Parantha and a Carrots & Peas
vegetable dish quite well.

Food and Supplies
Shukla, the lady who comes to cook at the apartment, will buy vegetables and fruit for
you and she usually gets good prices but it is also fun to practice your Hindi with the
fruit/vegetable sellers and you can buy things she does not usually buy and make, such
as broccoli. Students have enjoyed getting to know Shukla and have even sometimes
enjoyed informal cooking lessons! If you get a craving for any special food, you are not
too far from two of the more up market South Delhi shopping areas (GK1 M-Block and
GK1 N-Block Markets) with a large variety of dining options. Even Kailash Colony

                                         - 20 -
Market and East of Kailash have a few eat-out options; the student assistant for the LSR
Program will guide you to them.
M-Block and N-Block Market are both walking distance from your apartment, as
mentioned earlier, and great for slightly costlier clothing – both international and
Nehru Place shopping complex offers a post office, every kind of bank, textile shops,
computer goods wholesale distributors and sweet shops.
Lajpat Nagar Central Market (nearer Central Delhi) is a large, vibrant multi-purpose
market with a focus on clothing, textile and wedding-related merchandise.
You will also have our share of American-style malls, especially with Select Citiwalk
and DLF Place further south.
Ask your student assistant to help you find your way to any of the above.

The apartment has a washing machine (no dryer though: “air-dry” is hot enough!) which
is easy to use. You can iron your clothes at home if you choose to but all South Delhi
neighborhoods have a local Dhobi to whom you can give your clothes for ironing.

LSR is 5 minutes by auto rickshaw from the apartment and the fare is about Rs 15.You
can also get there by taking a cycle rickshaw for Rs 10. Don’t let the drivers intimidate
you. Use Hindi as much as you can since they are used to bargaining with tourists. You
can stand your ground and walk away if the price doesn’t seem right; this sometimes
works to lower the prices.

Changing money
Most banks will change traveler’s checks. But for more efficient service you should try
Thomas Cook and American Express outlets in Connaught Place. To withdraw money
using a debit/ATM card, the best places to go to are ICICI Bank and ABN Amro Bank
(main GK1 M-Block Market road) and HDFC Bank (GK1 B-Block). There is a bank at
LSR under the main stairway and the teller there is usually happy to give you change
for a 500 rupee note (4 100s and 10 10s). This is very useful because auto rickshaws
won’t usually have change for you.

There is a post office at R block in GK 1. Letters take a week or two to reach the U.S.

Besides at the apartment, LSR has an internet facility in the library but you have to sign
up in advance and you can only use it for ½ an hour. There is an internet ‘café’ in
Kailash Colony market as well.

                                          - 21 -
College Life


Semester-long Hindi language course
The Hindi course that students take during the semester/year is held independently of
the colleges and arranged by the Site Coordinator. You will receive a month of daily
intensive preliminary instruction in Hindi at Landour, soon after your arrival in India.
Upon your return to Delhi, you will attend class three days a week, at your apartment
for St. Stephen’s students and at The East West Language Institute for the LSR
students. Further details will be given upon arrival in Delhi.

St. Stephen’s College
                                                                 St. Stephen’s College is
                                                                 one of the oldest and
                                                                 most reputable
                                                                 colleges of India.
                                                                 Founded in 1881 by a
                                                                 Christian mission, it
                                                                 remains a Christian
                                                                 institution although
                                                                 over half its students
                                                                 are non-Christian.
                                                                 There are about 1,200
                                                                 students currently
                                                                 studying at St.
                                                                 Stephen’s, of which 300
                                                                 live in on-campus
                                                                 housing. St. Stephen's
offers degrees in the following subjects: Economics, English, History, Mathematics,
Philosophy, Sanskrit , Physics, and Chemistry.

Lady Shri Ram College for Women (LSR)

LSR is one of the premier institutions of higher education for women in India. It was
founded in 1956 by Sir Shri Ram in memory of his wife. Though it sits in bustling South
Delhi, the 15 acre campus ground afford it some calm. The college emphasizes the

                                          - 22 -
humanities and social sciences. The urban village of Zamrudpur is a stone’s throw from
the college and LSR students interact with the villagers in numerous community
development projects. There are about 1,500 students currently studying at LSR, of
which 300 live on campus housing. LSR offers degrees in the following subjects:
Commerce, Political Science, Psychology, Economics, Sociology, Statistics, English,
History, Mathematics, Philosophy, and Sanskrit, Journalism.

The Indian college system
St. Stephen’s College and Lady Shri Ram College are a part of Delhi University and are
therefore governed by DU norms. These norms and regulations are applicable to all the
colleges that constitute Delhi University.

The Indian college system is based on the English educational structure and functions
with what American students might perceive as certain ‘rigidities’. Students are not
allowed to switch majors after applying, most of the courses in their three years are
fixed and are within their major department, and marks are determined by a
standardized set of yearly exams. Students take all their classes with students of the
same year and subject. They are also required to pass exams in 2 subsidiary subjects,
which are usually taken in first year, leaving students to focus on their degree subject
for the remaining two years.

The faculty is strong in many departments of both colleges, with many professors doing
research independent of the college. Foreign students do not work within the exam
system and their grades are determined by the professors.

Starting Out

Academic tips
In the beginning, the Site Coordinator will help you set up an appointment with the
Foreign Student Advisor at each college. This advisor will be giving you academic
advice about registration and can help you find your way around campus. You will have
to actively structure your courses with the help of the Foreign Student Advisor and
your professors in the first two weeks of your time at the college. This is extremely
important since the regular Indian student appears for exams only at the end of
the academic year and Brown program students are examined at the end of their
stay. You will have to structure your academic priorities prudently.

If you’re thinking of taking any science classes which involve labs, be aware that the
facilities at St. Stephen’s are not currently on par with American universities. For this
reason taking science courses is not recommended. If you are interested in taking
non-lab sciences, you should inquire as to availability and quality through the Study
Abroad Office.

Since visiting students, unlike local students, may take courses in more than one subject
area, they need to be more careful in arranging these. Since students belonging to
particular departments spend more time together, you might lose out on building your
own social base if you spread your classes out too thin. Classes may also be cancelled or

                                           - 23 -
moved (either because teachers don’t show up or because the students organize mass
‘bunk’ days), so it’s important to make sure your classmates have a phone number to
reach you at and that you are in the loop. To make this clearer, if you are interested in
philosophy and economics, you should take two courses in one of these subjects rather
than one in each. By doing so, you will be amongst the same group of students for two
courses, rather than in three separate groups. Logistically too, the class schedule may be
easier to organize. When taking classes across different departments, you need to be
careful to arrange your courses in such a way that the time of one course does not clash
with another.

You might find that the syllabus gets going more slowly than you are used to. This is
because Delhi University Colleges only have one final exam in April. Because you’ll be
working outside of the standardized exam system, you’ll need to actively work with
your professors in the first two weeks to structure course assignments. Don't expect
anything to happen too quickly, so plan ahead and leave enough time to get hold of the
professors. It will help if you prepare questions that they need to answer or bring from
your home university a copy of a class evaluation sheet.

The student/teacher relationship at LSR and St. Stephen’s is more formal than at
American universities, but it depends greatly on the individual professor. In the
beginning it is a good idea to be formal until you get to know your professors and what
they expect. Most professors do not have offices or regular hours, so you’ll have to be
persistent. Your best bet is to ask fellow students in that subject how you can reach the
professor. You can leave notes for professors in mail boxes in the staff room, and when
possible it is a good idea to get your professors’ home phone numbers. If you approach
them early, most of the teachers are cooperative and flexible with the courses.

The Indian system of grading works as follows:

60% and above          First Division
50% to 59%             Second Division
40% to 49%             Third Division
39% and below          Fail

However, over the years Brown-in-India has developed a flexible system to enable
professor and student to arrive at different assessment criteria depending on the length
of the student’s stay (6 or 9 months) and the nature of the course taken.

Seek the Foreign Student Advisor's help in putting into place the alternative assessment
structure, since it is important that this is clearly established within the first term. This
involves clarifying meeting times, types of assignments due, assignment dates and
lengths, etc. After the first week you should let the Foreign Student Advisor know what
courses you’ll be taking.

Be especially aware that teachers take a very long time to grade everything. You should
talk to the teacher often and as early as possible about evaluations for your courses. It

                                           - 24 -
can be a bit difficult getting the teachers to write comments or give grades for essays,
because they don’t normally work in that manner.

Student ID card
If you brought passport photos from the USA, you’ll only have to drop them off at the
office and fill out a short form. If you didn’t bring photos, you can have them made near
campus. The student assistants will help you with this procedure should you need any.

Library cards
The library will issue you books against your Student ID. The system (number of books
at a time, late fee etc) differs between the two colleges, so please ask your student
assistant if you need any clarification.

In and around College

Medical care
The St. Stephen’s dispensary is open on Tuesdays and Fridays at 1:30. The doctor, Dr.
Ramesh Gupta, can take care of small problems and can give referrals for larger
problems. Mr. David, Dr. Gupta’s assistant, lives on campus, and can also write

LSR has an infirmary on campus where you can go for minor health problems while you
are in college.

In case of any serious health problems inform the Site Coordinator immediately and
(s)he will arrange medical care for you.

Campus banks
You can open an account at the Extension Counter of the Syndicate Bank at St.
Stephen’s College or at the Punjab National Bank located in LSR. This allows you to
write checks, transfer money from the US and cash traveler’s checks.

Sports facilities
At St. Stephen's there are playing-fields with soccer nets, tennis courts, basketball
courts, a gymnasium (though don’t expect a gymnasium as you know them, the
equipment is very basic), handball courts (you need to bring your own balls and gloves),
and a badminton net. There are ping-pong tables in the Junior Common Room for the
less athletically inclined.

At L S R there are facilities for the following sports: basket ball, table tennis, tennis,
judo and athletics.

Note The soccer field facility at the St. Stephen’s campus is not available for the year of
’09-’10. It has been leased out to the government as a training field for the 2010
Commonwealth Games in Delhi. Interested students will be informed of alternate
arrangements upon arrival.

                                            - 25 -
Student organizations
At St. Stephen's there are sign up sheets for many of the student organizations at the
beginning of the year, and these organizations post regular announcements on the
bulletin boards in the main hall. Three basic places to look for announcements are the
departmental advice boards, ‘Today’s Engagements’, and dedicated notice boards. The
Societies or Hobby Clubs are good places to make friendships. Here you will find
students who might share your particular interests and with whom you can do things.
The Hobby Clubs/Societies put up their activities on the Notice Boards, so you should
have a look at these regularly to keep in touch with what is happening. Some of these

Philosophical Society, Economics Society, Photographic Society, English Literary
Society, Planning Forum (they discuss issues of policy), Fine Arts Society, Gandhi
Study Circle, Sanskrit Hindi Sahitya Sabha (Sanskrit and Hindi Literary Society),
Hiking club, Shakespeare Society (English Theatre Society), History Society, Social
Service League, Informal Discussion Group, Wild Life Society, Music Society and Cine

St. Stephen's also has a tradition of Chess and Bridge. It is up to the individual student
to make inquiries and seek partners.

At Lady Shri Ram a strong facet of intellectual life is provided by the Department
Associations. They attempt to take the disciplines beyond the confines of the University
syllabi, using lectures, film shows, discussions and occasional workshops to raise issues
marginalized by the mainstream. There are also many societies and clubs at LSR. A few
examples are listed here:

The Women’s Development Cell: (carries out community development projects on
broadly feminist lines through guest lectures, discussion forums, study camps and work
with voluntary agencies). The Hive (art club), The Dramatics Society, Dhyana: (holistic
health and meditation)

There is a machine on campus at St Stephen’s and one at LSR outside the top floor of
the library.

Other libraries
If you don’t find what you need in college, you can look in the following libraries:

Alliance Française
American Library
British Council Library
Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS)
Delhi School of Economics Library: It is on the same street as St. Stephen’s, on the
Delhi School of Economics campus.
Max Muller Bhawan Library: Strong collection of German Indology.
National Council of Applied Economic Research (NCAER)

                                           - 26 -
Public Library: Past students have found this library (close to the Mandi House Metro
stop in Central Delhi) to be useful. Their selection is quite good, especially in history.
They don’t charge an entrance fee, allow photocopies, and don’t permit check-outs. So if
the book is in the catalog, it’s there somewhere.
UNFPA Library
Voluntary Health Association of India (VHAI)
World Bank Library

                                          - 27 -
Around Delhi

Delhi is the capital of India, built and rebuilt seven times by numerous invaders, which
means a long history going back a few millennia. St. Stephen's College is situated in
North Delhi, very close to Old Delhi (also known as the walled city or Shahjahanabad),
the capital of the Mughal rulers who preceded the British Raj. The English ruled India
for almost two hundred years, until 1947. In 1911 they moved their capital from
Calcutta (Kolkata) to New Delhi, which they built next to the old Mughal capital.

Today, while the two most recent Delhis have more or less merged into each other,
certain differences remain. New Delhi, situated to the south of the old city, is fairly
modern. It is spread out, with particularly unique residential areas comparable to inner
city suburbs. Its main attractions are the well-planned diplomatic and government
enclaves, the latter designed by the English architect Edwin Lutyens (including the
Presidential Palace, South and North Blocks, Parliament House and Connaught Place).
Old Delhi on the other hand has a different charm. The narrow streets of Chandni
Chowk, for instance, are named after the products they sell.

Life in Delhi, like all cities in India, attracts both modern and traditional elements of
Indian life. As a city, you will be struck by its history, vibrancy and uniqueness.

Cultural Resources

One of the best things about the city is that there is a wide array of festivals,
performances and visual art options available to its residents all year-round and what’s
more, most of these are free. You will receive at your apartment, subscriptions to Time
Out Delhi and First City magazines which should keep you up-to-date on the goings on
around town. Supplements in Times of India, Hindustan Times and The Hindu
newspapers list cultural events on a daily basis, besides which you can also check with
the following institutes for their programs:

Alliance Francaise
India Habitat Centre (IHC)
India International Center (IIC)
Kamani Auditorium
Max Mueller Bhavan (Goethe Institut)
National School of Drama
Sahitya Kala Akademi
The Attic
Triveni Kala Sangam

                                           - 28 -
Shopping and Eating-Out

Most residential neighborhoods have a central market where you can get all you need to
get by on a daily basis. But in case you want some variety, here are some other markets
(mostly in the Central to South Delhi region) to which you might like to go:

Connaught Place (food and retail, mid-to-expensive)
Dilli Haat (food, handicraft and textile from different regions of India)
Greater Kailash M-Block Market (multi-purpose, mid-to-expensive)
Greater Kailash N-Block Market (dining and clothing; mid-to-expensive)
Janpath (small shops selling an array of different handicraft items catering to the
tourist market; also very close to Jantar Mantar, an 18th century astronomical
Khan Market (book shops and variety of dining options; mid-to-expensive)
Lajpat Nagar Central Market (garment, textile and household goods)
Sarojini Nagar (export surplus garment market)
South Extension (retail and jewelry; mid-to-expensive)
Sunder Nagar Market (brass, antiques and jewelry; upmarket)

Some tips
In the expensive Connaught Place shops the prices will be fixed, but along Janpath and
in Sarojini Nagar Market, one can bargain without hesitation. Mentioning that you are
a student living in Delhi is likely to help too. For buying presents though, it’s best to
hold off until the end of your stay, when you have a better idea of how much things
should cost and your Hindi is better so you can bargain better.

India has an amazing variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisine. Contrary to
popular belief, all Indian food is not hot and spicy. Delhi boasts of restaurants that serve
                                                                        food from various
                                                                        parts of India and
                                                                        around the world
                                                                        catering to different
                                                                        budgets and tastes.
                                                                        If you get homesick
                                                                        and feel the need
                                                                        for certain
                                                                        American food
                                                                        products, INA
                                                                        Market is good for
                                                                        almost anything
                                                                        (including turkey

A typical sweet shop in Delhi

                                           - 29 -
Places and festivals you should not miss

Blind Relief Association for the summer cloth bazaar and the week-long fair during
Diwali (the Indian festival of lights), which is great for buying Christmas presents.
Chandni Chowk for its amazing paranthas and the spice market in Khari Baori
Crafts Museum for live demos of Indian handicraft being made (also has a store)
Dilli Haat for handicrafts, momos and Nature Bazaar (usually held towards the end of
the year and great for the best craft and textle from around India)
Hanuman Mandir for the Tuesday evening bangle market
Humayun’s Tomb is the mausoleum of the second Mughal-era ruler of India. The
expansive complex has been beautifully restored very recently
Jama Masjid (go with a guy and you can climb the tower and get a great view of Delhi)
Jantar Mantar
Lodi Gardens, specially at sunset and for picnics in early winter
Lotus Temple of the Baha’i Faith
Mehrauli Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site houses the Qutab
Minar (a 240 foot watchtower built in 1199) and numerous other structures of note
National Gallery of
Modern Art
National Museum for its
permanent exhibits on
Ancient Indian history
Old Fort
Red Fort is the impressive
structure from which the
country’s Prime Minister
delivers his speech every
Independence day. The fort
and the mosque (Jama
Masjid) and walled city
(Shahjahanabad) the fort
faces, were all commissioned
by the Mughal ruler Shah
Jahan (he’s responsible for
the Taj Mahal in Agra too)                                               Humayun’s Tomb


There are five modes of transportation in Delhi. In descending order of cost they are:
taxi, auto-rickshaw, the metro, cycle-rickshaw, and bus. By law the price is meant to
fixed on all but the cycle rickshaw, but in reality only bus and metrop rates end up being

The most efficient way to travel is the Metro, which can take you to a limited number of
destinations across town (a few lines are still under construction in many parts). Auto
rickshaws are a convenient and economical too and you will find them just around the
corner outside the apartment. Taxis are most viable when you travel in a group or have

                                          - 30 -
                                                             luggage. These are found at
                                                             fixed taxi stands, the
                                                             telephone numbers for which
                                                             you will receive when you
                                                             move into your apartments.

                                                            You might have to settle on a
                                                            rate before getting into a taxi
                                                            or an auto rickshaw because
                                                            though rates are meant to be
                                                            fixed by meter, operators
                                                            often refuse to turn them on
                                                            and you have to haggle for a
                                                            good price. If you do get an
                                                            operator who agrees to go by
                                                            the meter, make sure the
                                                            meter is turned on and set to
                                                             zero. Be alert to make sure
                                                             the driver isn’t going around
in circles to inflate the fare. Remember that every rickshaw-wallah/taxi-wallah is
required to carry a copy of the standardized fare list (some will offer it to you
immediately at the end of the journey, others you have to ask to see it). The Night Fares
(always more expensive) are on one side/in one column of the fare list and the Day fares
on/in the other. Make sure you’re reading the right one (Night fares are used between
11pm and 5am). Also remember that there are surcharges for luggage and extra stops.

It’s best to avoid taking local buses, more so in peak traffic hours and at night. Women
are sometimes harassed on buses, which is why a few rows of all Delhi buses are
reserved for women only. Women can ask any man seated in any of those rows to give
up his seat. Some women in Delhi will not go on buses if they are mostly empty or have
no women on them in order to avoid harassment. If you do decide to travel by bus,
please go with an Indian friend who speaks Hindi (especially for female students).

The student assistants will get you Metro maps and autorickshaw/taxi rate charts and
help you find your way around the city and its transport system.


Phone calls
Local calls cost about 2 rupee for 2 minutes. All calls are billed at a minimum of 2
minutes so that when you call out from the apartment, you are being billed
continuously. It is advisable to use your cell phone for most of your local calls. As far as
long-distance calls are concerned, remember that all of India is on one time. The time
difference between Delhi and the USA (EST) is 9.30 hours ahead. Plan calls accordingly
and don’t forget adjust for daylight saving time. To call India from the United States,
the country code is 0091 and Delhi’s city code is 011, so a direct call to a fixed-line
number would be to 0091-11-(eight digit number) and to a cell phone would be 0091-

                                           - 31 -
(10 digit number). To call the USA from India, you would dial 001-(area code)-(phone
number). Long distance phone calls from India are expensive; you cannot make these
from your apartment phone. Most students call from their cell phones or STD/ISD
booths that dot every neighborhood market.

Cell Phones
The program assistants will help you set up your cell phone connections. After you get
your connection going, you will receive a call from the service provider asking to verify
your personal details, as they are required to do so for reasons of national security.
While getting a connection is straightforward, you must remember to request a
verification call-back in the English language at the time of purchasing one. Prepaid
local rates amount to about $10/month, unless you are traveling outside city limits, in
which case there will be additional roaming charges. If your cell phone gets stolen, it is
advisable to request the help of a student assistant or program coordinator: phone
companies are sometimes more inclined to help out when speaking with a native Hindi

Foreign Air Mail rates are Rs 25 for a letter, Rs 11 for an Aerogram and Rs 8 for a
postcard. Inland postal rates are Rs 5. Postage Stamps are available only at post offices,
which are located in every residential area around town. These are open from 10am to
5:00 pm Monday thru Saturday. Letters mailed to the States take about a week or two
to reach their destination so anything urgent should be sent through speed-post, courier
or FedEx. Past students have reported that at the post office, after you have handed in
your stamped letters, the stamps are sometimes ripped off by someone and the letters
thrown away so the stamps can be resold. To prevent this from happening, make sure
you ask a post office staff person to ‘cancel’ the stamps (by rubber stamping them) after
you've put the postage on. Watch and make sure it’s done so there’s little incentive for
any wrongdoing afterwards.

An internet connection is available at all Brown-in-India apartments, though the
wireless router has to be set up and security-enabled before you arrive. Once every few
weeks this might give you a bit of trouble; the student assistants can help you set it


Like all cities, Delhi has its safer and less safe areas. The best advice Brown can give
you is to get safety tips from the friends you make in Delhi. Of the places in your
immediate neighborhood, it is advisable not to go to the area known as The Ridge (a
strip of forest near St Stephen’s) as it is isolated and dangerous.

For men, Delhi can feel safer than many American cities. However, the safety concerns
of women in Delhi need more attention. Female students are advised not to give out
their cell number or be too friendly to strangers (male) because some gestures you
might not think much of in the States are interpreted quite differently in India. Giving

                                           - 32 -
out your phone number to men can easily project the idea that you are open to constant
romantic advances. Please also avoid wearing revealing or overly tight clothes. You will
have a better idea of what sticks out once you’ve seen the way women typically dress in
Delhi. As a general rule, try not to travel alone at night; but if you do end up doing so,
have your friends take down the license number of the auto rickshaw/taxi and let the
driver know that they have done so.

Remember to ALWAYS check that the apartment door is locked before leaving the
apartment and be watchful in general. This goes for everyone on the Program.

Dating is not recommended in Delhi; gender roles are not what you are used to. This
information is not to discourage you entirely, but to inform you that in all likelihood
you may face issues of immaturity and dishonorable intentions with men and extreme
conservativeness with women (behaviors that may be taken lightly in the States can be
interpreted as signs of serious intent in India).

Money and Banking

             In India, the unit of currency is the Rupee (Re, plural Rupees – Rs). One
             Rupee is divided into 100 Paise (p, singular Paisa). There are coins
             designating 50 Paise, Re 1, Rs 2 and Rs 5 (though the 50p coins are mostly
             out of commission now). The rate of exchange varies but at the time of
             printing it was in the high 40s to 1 USD.

Remember to bring your debit/ATM and credit cards along. ATMs are widely available
throughout the city, often at walking distance from wherever you find yourself. Please
check with your banks to see if you will be able to access money through an ATM
machine in Delhi and how much they charge per international transaction. Most shops,
hotels, and airlines accept credit cards.

Before you leave, make sure that you check in with your bank to warn them that you
will be living in India. You should also find out what cash withdrawal fees apply to your
card in India. Some banks charge significant fees for cash withdrawals abroad.

Also, bring 100 USD in traveler’s check in case something happens to your ATM card.
This way you won’t be stranded without money while you wait for the problem to be
sorted out or for a new ATM card to arrive from the States.

There is a branch of the Central Bank of India at the Ashok Hotel that
stays open 24 hours a day and is very convenient for changing currency
and travellers checks. For LSR students specifically, money can be
changed at the Park Royal Hotel and for St. Stephen’s students at the
Punjab National Bank next to Exchange Stores very near the apartment.

Remember to always change money with authorized moneychangers only and avoid
bringing large sums of cash.

                                          - 33 -
Traveling Around India

There is a two week break in October from around the 1st to the 15th. This is a
wonderful opportunity to travel around India. However, before embarking on such a
long trip, go on a smaller weekend getaway to get used to what it means to travel here.
For example, Independence Day weekend in August is a good time. Remember to
always travel with your passport or Residency Card; without which you cannot check
into a hotel.

Also, Delhi is very different from the rest of India. Women outside big cities like Delhi,
don’t usually wear western clothes. So, if you are planning to travel, try and wear Indian
clothing. It might also be more comfortable for you.

The main mode of interstate travel in India is the railway system. There are three main
stations, two in New Delhi, and one in Old Delhi. You can buy railways tickets at the
station, on-line, or through a travel agent for a small fee. If you are unable to get a
ticket at the station you could try using the "Foreigner's Quota", which, as the name
suggests are certain train tickets that are reserved for foreigners. For overnight train
rides it is advisable to be extra careful of your luggage and valuables. Use a lock to
fasten your luggage to your seat while traveling or sleep using your backpack as your

Your shorter trips could be done on buses, which run regularly between Delhi and
neighboring cities and are quite inexpensive. There are both government-run buses and
those run by private companies. These range from the standard non-airconditioned
variety with minimal seat cushioning to semi-deluxe and air conditioned deluxe coaches.
The Volvo buses are usually the most comfortable and therefore the most expensive too
You can get information on these from the Delhi Tourism Centre or from the two
Inter-State Bus Terminals – the bigger one near the St Stephens apartment (known
simply as ISBT) and another smaller one at Sarai Kale Khan in Southeast Delhi

Lately, India has had a surge in no-frill cheaper air travel, making flights a more viable
option at times (specially over longer distances). These flights can be booked online, at
airport counters and sometimes through travel agents. Some no-frill airlines are: Air
Deccan, Spicejet, Indigo and Jet Lite. We also have three regular airlines: Indian, Jet
Airways and Kingfisher (these are generally nicer but more expensive).

Much of the above information can be obtained in greater detail online from the
relevant websites (like and for train enquiries). For
additional help, you will be provided with a Lonely Planet India at your apartments to
help you plan your trips (please do not take these out of the apartments). You can also
go to any big bookshop to pick up more area-wise guides like the Outlook 52 Weekend
Guides etc. Your site coordinator can guide you if needed with any of the above.

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A Final Note

The Brown-in-India Program offers you an excellent opportunity to conduct your own
research. It is possible to meet and interact with academics that you would not have the
opportunity to work with at Brown or your home institution. The Brown-in-India
program is not suitable for those who need a very structured course schedule and
externally supplied academic direction.

At the beginning of the India sojourn, students attending St. Stephen’s and LSR
sometimes experience frustration with the pace of academic life. However, by the time
that they leave, they’ve not only adjusted to a different academic system but almost all
of them have felt a marked personal growth.

On the Brown-in-India Program you will be challenged by a completely different
system of time, truth, attitude, humor, ethics and much more. We view others through
our own cultural lenses so it is important to understand that what you encounter in
another culture is not right or wrong, but often just different. We live in a culturally
diverse world and India offers you experience-based culture learning.

We leave you with a few observations made by past students. See you soon!

       “I really would recommend staying the year. As someone who did not, I found
       that I was just beginning to get really settled and comfortable at school and in
       Delhi when I left. Obviously this happens in degrees, and I was reasonably well
       settled a month in, but it was only by the end that I could actually envision myself
       living there independently without the expectation of coming back to something,
       and that was a nice feeling.”

       “Because of the huge degree of autonomy that you are granted on the Brown
       program, what you get out of it really reflects what you put in.”

       “If you are looking for an experience of rural India, this is not the program for
       you. But if you are interested in Indian politics or arts and culture, Delhi
       presents great opportunities to come into contact with the cream of both these
       worlds. Being thoroughly a city person (I grew up in Washington D.C.) I found
       it fascinating to live in the cultural and political hub of India. There are always
       cultural events going on if you want to take advantage of them – from classical
       Indian music and dance, to experimental theater and cutting edge documentary
       films, it’s all there.”

       “Overall, the Brown program is extremely well structured and thought-out, so
       that you feel very sheltered from many of the difficulties of day-to-day life in
       India for someone who is not used to the ‘system’. This is wonderful, especially at
       first when everything is very disorienting anyway, since you can spend your time
       getting immersed in the culture rather than freaking out over little things such as
       finding safe food and figuring out how to call an electrician to repair the air-

                                              - 35 -
conditioner. In addition, the Site Coordinator is always there to provide
guidance and help, even on little issues that you may feel confused about. I had a
great time, and feel that I had adequate stimulus provided by the program as
well as plenty of time to pursue my own interests and to travel around.”

“I found the professors to be generally accessible and willing to talk to students.
This was not quite universal though, and there was a definite divide between
faculty who truly respected their students, and those who did not. However, I
would not say this was the prevailing attitude at the school, and other faculty
members were extremely inspiring.”

“LSR gets a lot of great speakers, much like Brown, and the girls put on
performances that range from really quality (dance, music) to just having fun.
The camaraderie was fantastic and something I haven’t experienced in any other
academic setting I’ve been in. It really is a wonderfully supportive community.
The professors were also all female, which I think added nicely to the support and
role models a women’s college is supposed to provide – and is particularly
important in India. Overall the school’s ideology is very progressive and feminist,
and it was very exciting to me (as someone who identifies with both those things)
to watch some of the girls’ ideas transformed as they were exposed to perspectives
outside of their sometimes more traditional and very conservative upbringings.”

“I would really recommend choosing one subject of study so you attend class with
the same group. Most students socialize among their subject group in breaks
between classes, either on campus or sometimes they rush off en masse for lunch or
a Hindi film. That is largely how social dynamics are organized and would
make it easier to make friends – If you’re on a different schedule from everyone
you can’t really participate in that. This was suggested in the handbook last year
and I sort of shrugged it off, but it’s really true.”

“Make the most of the time you have. Remember that everything is a good
learning experience. I’m not the most outgoing person but I had a great time and
made great friends in college and with other students in the program. I even
consider the coordinators my friends. They are great people who are ready to talk
to you and hear what you have to say. Overall, whatever difficulties I may have
had are overshadowed by all the good new and interesting things I experienced
and learned. India is outside of any comfort zone you’ve ever had. Don’t fight it;
go with the flow and be willing to talk and get involved. It’s worth it! Enlarge
you’re comfort zone.”

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