AUTOMATIC ANCHOR LIGHT SWITCH
PO Box 1582, Beaufort SC 29901
www.yandina.com Email: email@example.com or 877-355-2184 toll free
West Marine Model # 542100
control which is the one closest to if you like.
the end. 5. Secure the switch with cable ties
2. Add a new wire from the "+" or tape or open the box and drill
The Automatic Anchor Light Switch is terminal (center one) to where the and screw through the box.
an electronic daylight sensor which lamp wire was originally attached
allows automatic control of your anchor to the switch on your panel. OPERATION
light by turning it on at dusk and off at 3. Add a new wire from the third
dawn. Your existing anchor light switch terminal, "GROUND" to a negative The original panel switch turns
still forces the light off in it*s “off” boat ground terminal. A small everything off in the "OFF" position.
position and allows the automatic gauge wire, even 22 gauge is The "ON" position is now an
operation in the “on” position. adequate. "AUTOMATIC" setting. The anchor
4. Route the fiber optic cable to a light will only come on when it gets dark
Now you can leave your anchored location where the end is exposed and go off automatically at daybreak.
yacht for a day of exploration and re- to outside daylight. It does not You can test operation during daylight
turn in the evening without running have to be in sunlight and enough by covering the end of the fiber optic
down your battery unnecessarily. Es- light comes through most port cable and watching the anchor light
pecially on moonless nights, you will holes to operate the switch. It come on. The switch is very sensitive
have the security of knowing your boat should be located where the end of and can see the light coming through
will be legal, safe, and easy to find. You the cable is not illuminated by your hand on a bright day so block the
can sleep in the next morning knowing lights on the boat. Even the light light with an opaque object if
that your battery is not suffering. coming through thin fiberglass or a necessary.
nylon fitting will operate the switch.
By using state of the art fiber optic Position the cable temporarily and An internal fuse link protects the switch
cable the control can be mounted out of observe operation before securing. from overload. If blown it can be
the weather behind your electrical panel If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole repaired with 30 gauge wire or a single
and the cable routed to any location through an inconspicuous location strand from a flexible cord, soldered
where daylight is available. The unit is on the salon or cockpit sides and into the two holes provided.
very sensitive and can operate on light epoxy the cable so the end is flush
coming in a vent or porthole. Even the with the surface. Take care not to SPECIAL NOTE REGARDING
light coming through the nylon material make bends in the cable of less TESTING
of a cockpit drain is adequate. If no than 1/2". You can shorten the
daylight is within 5 feet of the panel a cable with a sharp knife. The The switch will only work correctly
3/32” hole can be drilled through the cable can be removed from the with the cover installed to block stray
cockpit or cabin sides and the end of switch by loosening the knurled nut light, and there must be an electrical
the cable epoxied in place. The surface inside and sliding it out. Longer load on the output.
can then be sanded flush making the replacement cables up to 25 feet
sensor inconspicuous. are available at $1.25 per foot. WARRANTY 1 YEAR.
Mail the old cable back for a rebate
The switch is designed to be installed SPECIFICATIONS
behind the switch or breaker panel Voltage: 10 to 16 volts
which currently controls your anchor Power Consumption:
light. Anchor light off: too low to measure
Anchor light on: .03 amp
1. Remove the wire which goes to Maximum Load: 120 watts or 10 amps
your anchor light from the existing Fiber Optic Cable 088” dia. by 5 feet
switch and attach it to the "LAMP" Minimum bend radius 1/2 inch
terminal on the anchor light