I HAVE BEEN COMPILING GROOMING TIPS
FROM MULTIPLE BREEDERS, SO HERE THEY
(Sorry, Moe, haven’t actually typed yours up yet)
There is a tip that isn’t in here, “playing will rip the coat out, for those of us who
haven’t found that out yet” this tip came from a English peke kennel though I share
12. What grooming hints or tips do you feel works best for keeping a great show coat? "You are what
you eat" applies the same with dogs as with people. During the summer months, I may monitor fat content
in a diet more carefully than I would in the winter months. Feeding a high quality dog food is also very
important and I look at the first four ingredients to assure that they are superior. I also look for a dog food
that is not dependent on harmful preservatives. The dogs also need to like the food that they are provided.
You cannot grow coat on a malnourished dog.
Another very important element of grooming is cleanliness. If a dog is dirty, he is not going to grow coat. I
am fortunate to have a friend who thinks bathing the dogs is fun, and she regularly comes over to help me
bathe all the dogs. We have a great time in the process. I stick with 4 shampoos that I prefer. Neem
shampoo has qualities that are very healing, but the particular brand that I buy from a grooming supply
house also smells like bubble gum and is yummy smelling on the dogs. I also like #1 All Systems shampoo
for those in show coat and EQyss for the old timers. I use Baby Shampoo for the faces and wrinkles.
Constant observation should be paid to the eyes. Always take the moment necessary to remove debris from
the eyes so that they do not become scratched or injured. A moment taken to do this saves many a dollar at
the eye specialists' office. Keeping the wrinkle clean also helps to keep loose hair and other debris from
getting into the eyes. I use Saline solution to clean this area of the face. Daily care includes cleaning the
wrinkle, the males' belly, fringing, skirting, plumage, as well as checking the teeth for tartar and examining
the ears. Women's douche in a spray bottle is an excellent solution for keeping the boys' private parts clean.
It is also important to mist the coat daily with a conditioner/water combination and to give a quick brush
through. One of my friends recommends rainwater as opposed to tap water when misting. Since we've had
no rain in Georgia for quite a spell, I'm out of luck on that one. If I am working on growing coat, I
generally use Panacea and water in a spray to mist the dogs. Addressing any tangles immediately will help
to preserve the coat. I have found that proper coat is easily cared for and does not matt as much as a softer
coat. I think you also need to deal with coat drops on a timely basis. You do not want to wait until the loose
coat begins to clump up and tangle. Comb the loose coat out as soon as you notice the drop, bathe the dog
in a soothing shampoo and they will be rapidly back on the track to building a nice, healthy coat. If you
bathe a dog before removing the loose coat, you will create nightmare city and it will require many hours to
correct the matted coat.
George Alston once recommended in one of his seminars that lighting also has to do with preservation of
the coat. If the lighting provided to a dog is a consistent number of hours during the day, you are not faced
with seasonal coat drops when summer days are much longer than winter days. It is food for thought, but a
task not easily accomplished.
Grooming: Groom your puppy carefully at least once a week, paying special
attention to his undercarriage (once he reaches puberty he may get quite sticky
but this will pass after a couple of months). You should also clean his face,
wiping under the eyes and in the fold of the wrinkle. Always comb the hair on the
wrinkle away from the eye and forwards. Make sure his ears are clean and free
from mattes. The other areas where mattes form very quickly are, behind the
hocks in the skirts and in the armpits, just behind the front legs. If you groom
regularly you should be able to keep on top of any problems. Use a wire or stiff
brush and a wide toothed comb. A soft baby brush is no use at all!
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Proper Grooming for Your Pekingese
Pekingese have long gorgeous coats of hair that need to be properly cared for. They have
a double coat of hair therefore they need to be combed and brushed daily. In this article
you will find all you need to know about grooming your Pekingese. From taking care of
their coat, eyes and ears, all the way to the dental care of your Pekingese.
Grooming a Pekingese takes a bit of work and in order to do the best job you want to be
sure you have all the items you need before starting. This will help the grooming process
go smoothly and quickly.
Bathing your Pekingese – You want to use a small amount of shampoo worked into a
later in your palm. Apply this all over the coat, making sure to rinse thoroughly. After
shampooing, follow with the crème rinse. Be sure to rinse all the crème out as well. If
not, it will result in a flat and dull coat.
When all the crème rinse is out squeeze any excess water out and cover your Pekingese
with a big towel. Do not towel dry as this causes tangles and possible coat damage. Take
a section of hair into the towel at a time letting it draw the moisture out of the coat.
Use a blow dryer in slow motions and keep it a distance from the Pekingese’s skin. Brush
while drying to keep the hair from matting or tangling.
Cleaning the Face – Wipe under the eyes and the nose area with a cotton ball. You can
wash these areas with warm water when necessary. You want to be sure to keep these
areas as clean as possible to lessen risk of your Pekingese getting an infection.
Cleaning the Ears – You want to check your Pekingese’s ears often and watch for dirt or
wax. Clean the dirt or wax with cotton balls or tissue. You can use a proper ear cleaner if
Clipping the Nails – Regular trimming of the nails helps keep them short. You want to be
sure to be careful and in a case you cut the nail too short, assure your pet to clam them
while continuing to clip the nails.
Trimming the Feet – Use regular shears or clippers to trim the hair between the pads of
their feet. You only want to remove the hair that is in the crease below the large pad. This
hair mats easily and can create hard mats if not trimmed. Use the thinning shears to trim
the fringes going in the same direction as the toes. The rear feet need to be slightly
shorter than the front.
Trimming the Genitals – You can hold your Pekingese, put him on a table or have him
lay on his back for this. Use the clippers and carefully trim the area. Trim the hair in the
center of the belly area all the way up to the rib cage. This will help keep your dog cool.
After you are done trimming wipe the areas with a damp cloth.
Brushing the Coat – Use a grooming spray and spray lightly on the coat followed by a
light dusting of the powder. Brush the coat carefully and thoroughly. Remember to brush
the belly and legs as well. If you cannot break any matting with your fingers use a rake or
mat breaker. You want to brush the ears as well using the spray and powder.
Be sure to get every inch of the coat and that no mats are left unseen. Dog collars can
cause damage to your Pekingese’s coat so try to avoid them at all costs. When you are
finished, your Pekingese will be properly groomed and look fantastic. It might have taken
some time and work, but look at your Pekingese now. Wasn’t it worth all that time and
GROOMING YOUR PEKINGESE
This article is used by kind permission of Renee Bedome
A well-groomed Pekingese is a happy Pekingese!
With its glossy coat, long plume tail and fringes. Pekingese stay as nature
them to, with no cropping or ears or docking of tails. Grooming should start as
as possible as the new pet is settled in its new home. If one waits to long you
have a not so disciplined dog!
The most important part of the grooming equipment is the brush, and it should be
used every day if possible. Geniune bristle brushes are preferred, especially
that are not to stiff. At some stores you will notice brushes with balls on the end
the pins. These are unacceptable! These brushes tend to pull the coat out and
cause it to split! A good Pekingese dog brush is the #1 All Systems Pin Brush
can be obtained at many of the show vendors at dog shows. This brush is great
starting to work on the coat, than for the final results brush over the dog with the
Mason Pearson brush which is made from boar bristles. I, myself, like the 1/2
1/2 Mason Brush rather than the 100% boar bristle.
A coarse-toothed comb steel comb should be used just to work out any tangles,
for rough combing that might pull the coat out. A good fine-tooth comb is great for
combing out the face, be careful not to poke the eyes when doing so, also great
the muzzle hairs.
Also, a good slicker brush, this will pull the dead hair out of the coat if you do not
intend on showing the dog. The slicker brush is also very good to use if the dog
loosing his/her puppy fuzz! Place a blanket or towel on the table on which you'll
groom your pet. This is most important. If you do not groom your pet on the table,
your pet might fear the table at the shows therefore lacking in points and style!
most important tip when starting to groom is make sure you start with a "CLEAN"
dog. If your dog requires a bath, than do so but brush out the coat quickly
any mats or tangles as this will be harder to do later after the bath. There are
products available today to give a dry bath which powder is used. To clean the
as well, one can sprinkle baby powder or medicated gold bond powder into the
1). Start with the underneath coat. Carefully turn your peke on its back or side. If
the coat is soiled, wring a cloth out in warm water and rub the soiled places,
with talcum/baby/medicated foot powder and rub it well into the coat. If a your
is a male, you can shave the hair before the penis, in a upside down V. This well
take care of the urine smell that some males well have. You can cut some of the
around the penis as well to keep it sanitary, especially if used for breeding
Now brush each strand of hair till it seems to stand alone. If the coat is not soiled,
just brush it. A little amount of powder can be used to bring out the dead coat and
clean the coat. Medicated Powder can also be used, this works well in relief off
flaking skin but becareful not to get any into the eyes.
2). Turn your pet over and place him on his feet. Brush briskly, using the light
strokes against the lay of the coat. Start at the back of the neck and brush
from the skin to the end of the hair and always toward the head. Brush coat up
the sides to emphasize the appearance of a wide, heavy front.
A little amount of powder can be put behind the ears to prevent mats and to
refreshen the coat.
3). Clean the ears gently not probing to far inside. Gently use a damp cloth and
carefully remove any wax accumulation with a cotton swab. You can use Mineral
Oil, diuluted vinegar with water 3/4 vinegar/water, or dilute half and half alcohol
water to make a cleaner. Do not use the alcohol mixture if there is any irritated
skin. Then dust a pinch of medicated powder into each ear.
Brush the ear fringes on the end of the ear, since the ear is pulled back. Also any
hair in the ear canal should be removed with tweezers, this prevents wax build
mites and other problems.
Comb ear fringes forward to give feathery effect.
4). Comb hair from underneath ears forward toward face. Brush hair on top-skull
back, giving it a flat, square look and hiding any apple-headed look or
roundness of the head.
5). Put tail over back then brush, part hair of tail in the middle. Let feathering from
tall fall to either side of body to emphasize shortness in body.
6). Comb freely on feathering, upwards slightly. Comb lightly on feathering, ear
fringes, tail, etc. As combing to rough will cause damage to the coat.
NOTE: Keep the toenails trimmed at all times or they will grow back into the foot
causing extreme pain. An eye can be badly damaged by an uncut toenail. See to
that you do not cut too far down when cutting the toenails. This can injure the
"quick", which will cause pain and bleeding. If bleeding does occur, you can dab
end of the nail with a product that is available at your local pet store called,
"Quickstop". Trim the hair between the pads of the feet, for accumulated dirt will
cause soreness. Dust a little powder between the pads after cleaning and drying
IMPORTANT: You do not want to bathe your Peke to often, as this will strip the
from its essential oils resulting in dry irritated skin leaving the coat flat and
There are some dogs that enjoy the outdoors just after a rain which can be
disastrous on the coat. When the coat feels dirty, it is time for a bath! Powder put
into the coat will clean the coat as well as protect the skin from dryness.
Remember: if a Peke is not brushed every day, there will be tangles in the coat.
Grooming Guide- Pekingese
Grooming Your Pekingese
1) Conditioning Between Shows:
This is the most important part of any conditioning program. The time and effort you put in here will be rewarded
on show day.
These three breeds have been put together because the construction (make-up) of the coats are alike. Both have
a short woolly undercoat and longer straighter guard coat. Unless the coat has been neglected and been used
prior (such as flea powders, etc.) they usually do not require that bathing is not necessary, however a clean coat
and skin will yield a beautiful profuse coat. Many of the skin problems seen in these breeds are the result of not
bathing often enough. The skin is oily naturally and then when it becomes dirty this makes a great place for
bacterial infections to grow.
Bathe the coat with #1 ALL SYSTEMS SUPER CLEANING AND CONDITIONING SHAMPOO at least every 10 to 14
days. The way a dog lives, the area he exercises in, and how messy he is should determine if more often is
necessary. Remember our shampoo is pH neutral so only the excess oil and dirt are removed. So it is literally
safe enough to be used everyday if necessary. It will not soften the natural texture. Always rinse thoroughly, as
leaving soap in the coat can cause irritation. Then the dog will scratch, and scratching is the enemy of a show
Next use the Product Stabilizer, Coat Retexturizer, and Skin Refresher. This will assure that all excess
conditioner, oil or soap has been safely removed. If there are any infections brewing the bacteria will be killed.
The pH on the skin made hostile to further bacteria, thereby allowing the skin to heal naturally. Use 1-2 ounces
diluted in 32 ounces of water. Use applicator type bottle to pour evenly through coat. Leave on for 60- 90
seconds then rinse thoroughly. This is a natural ginger scented citrus product. It will leave the coat sparkling
clean, ready to accept the next conditioning step. All residues are safely removed.
#1 ALL SYSTEMS Premium Protein Pack and Pre-chalk is ideal for conditioning these coats. You may either dilute
it with water or apply full strength. The best ratio is in an 8 ounce bottle 5-6 pumps of the Premium Protein Pack.
Fill bottle } way with hot water , cover and shake vigorously to mix, then fill the rest of way with warm water and
shake ag in. Mist coat completely with this solution. Be sure to get all the way to the skin. During the week, the
coat may be brushed and misted to maintain moisture level. If you elect to apply full strength do so a layer at a
time. Go from hair root to ends of coat, brush to remove any dead coat. A blow dryer on warm may be used at
this point to deepen conditioning and aid in gently easing out dead coat.
2) Preparing the Coat for Show Day.
Shampoo the coat with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS SUPER CLEANING AND CONDITIONING SHAMPOO once to remove
the dirt and the second time to remove any excess conditioner that may not have been utilized by the skin and
coat. Rinse completely between each shampoo.
Use the Product Stabilizer, Coat Retexturizer and Skin Refresher, 1-2 ounces to a 32 ounce bottle. Leave in coat
for a minimum
of 60 - 90 seconds, then rinse thoroughly.
Gently blot coat dry with clean towel. Spray the Hair Revitalizer and Instant Anti-Static Coat spray into the coat
as you brush and blow the coat dry. Brush and blow in the direction you want it to end up. The Revitalizer will
help to texturize and pull the coat together. It will not leave it greasy. You will have the necessary body without
the buildup associated with hairsprays, mousses or silicon products.
AT THE SHOW GROOMING:
Once at the show, if a quick touch-up is needed to freshen feet, rears, faces, and bibs; use the Self-Rinse
Shampoo diluted 7 parts water 1 part shampoo. Spray into area to be cleaned, blot with clean towel terry or
paper. Repeat until completely clean. Dry with blow dryer if possible. If this is not possible, spray with Self-Rinse
and then powder with cornstarch and leave seta few minutes until it drys. Then brush powder out.
Preparing The Coat For The Show Ring:
Layer the coat with a solution of the #1 ALL SYSTEMS Premium Protein Pack and Pre-Chalk depending on coats
thickness. The thinner the coat the more concentrated the solution should be.
The average coat will take 5-6 pumps of the Premium Pack Pack to 8 ounces of warm water. Use Protein Pack
spray first then powder. Either use baby cornstarch or one of the antiseptic powder, designed for skin. Brush with
your favorite #1 ALL SYSTEMS Ultimate Pin Brush. Once the pin brush goes all the way through the coat, follow
with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS Slicker thoroughly brushed. This will also help fluff up the coat for maximum body. The
#1 ALL SYSTEMS Premium Protein Pack and Pre Chalk is designed not only to condition the skin and coat but also
to hold the powder/Chalk in the coat .
After showing, brush out excess and spray coat thoroughly with the Protein Pack and Pre-Chalk.
In some very rare instances the coat may require additional moisture. In these cases a combination of the #1
ALL SYSTEMS Protein Lotion Conditioner and Pure Cosmetic Lanolin Plus and Hair Emollients is best. Prepare a
solution of 2 caps of the Protein Conditioner and 1-2 caps of the Pure Cosmetic Lanolin in a 32 ounce bottle. Put
the conditioner and lanolin in the hot water. Replace cap and shake vigorously to mix completely . Next fill the
rest of the way with warm water replace cap and shake again. Because the lanolin is light than water it has a
tendency to separate, so frequent shaking will be necessary to maintain the proper solution and mixture for the
Mist coat every 3-5 days and brush is necessary. This solution will restore the natural moisture balance required
for maximum hair growth. The coats become very thick with this regimen. This is not to be used before showing,
and a bath is recommended before showing if this is the procedure you are using for between shows conditioning.
It is suggested that you not use powders which contain talc or heavy perfumes as they can cause irritation to the
skin and static in the hair. Static causes coat breakage and encourage the build up of dirt.
Grooming. I have discovered one important thing: there is NO substitute for regular, thorough
grooming! I bathe my dogs almost weekly, as do some of my friends; although that is not always
essential. Dirty hair does not grow, so keeping them clean is a priority. When I bathe, I use Crisp
Coat and Mane 'N Tail conditioner, which can be purchased at the supermarket--much cheaper,
but works great. I use conditioner all over on the pups, but the adults only have it on the skirts,
tails, fringing, and underneath. Too much conditioner will soften an adult coat too much, but a
little will help with detangling, and keeping moisture in those areas. I use a stand dryer, which I
learned how to use when I was working for a breeder who has been breeding and showing
Standard and Toy Poodles and Bichons for nearly 50 years now! Anyway, it was a real eye-
opener! It makes grooming a lot more enjoyable and relaxing, unless the dog is squirmy, but that
usually goes away after 3-4 sessions. I use a slicker brush to dry with, and a fine-tooth comb to
gently work out tangles and knots. There is a technique to drying--you must work methodically
from area to area, making sure that each area being dried has been brushed thoroughly and all
Pekes have a double coat, therefore it is very important if your dog has a heavy coat to work
through with a good brush (I use a pin brush) right down to the skin, gently but firmly. When a
dog is blowing the undercoat, which happens in bitches twice a year, dogs once a year, a slicker
works wonderfully for the purpose of removing dead and loose undercoat. I know some of you
may be skeptical, but that's how I learned to dry the Poodles and Bichons, and I can assure you,
it works great!