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Cleaning Detergents and Health Risks.

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Cleaning Detergents and Health Risks.





Have you ever wondered how a cup of detergent cleans soiled jeans, towels, socks, and

other articles in your wash, or how cleaning fluid at the dry cleaner whisks away that

grease stain from your suit? And why are hair spray, vinegar, club soda, and baking soda

surprisingly effective dirt and stain removers in an emergency? The answers lie both in

the chemical properties of various types of dirt and stains and in the ways that the

cleaning agents chemically interact with them.

Dirt and stains typically consist of particles, such as minerals from soil, protein and other

organic matter from living things, or bits of black carbon. The particles are trapped on

cloth fibres by grease and oil, which cannot be dissolved in water. Anything that can

loosen the grease and oil from the fibres and disperse these substances in the wash water

or dry-cleaning solution will remove the dirt and stains.

Soaps, detergents, cleaning fluids, and many emergency stain removers are effective

cleaners because they can dissolve, break up and suspend the oil and grease that holds

dirt in place. The grease and trapped soil particles then can be carried away in the water

or dry-cleaning solution. But these agents differ widely in their dirt-fighting activities and

the conditions under which they work. To understand why, we must understand the

chemical nature of soaps and detergents.

The words soap and detergent are often used interchangeably, but the two cleaners differ

considerably. Soaps are generally made from natural fats and oils. Soaps are excellent for

cleaning our hands, face, and body, because the loosened dirt is rinsed away immediately.

But soaps have definite drawbacks for cleaning laundry. For example, soaps often allow

dirt lifted from clothes to redeposit on the clothes before the wash cycle is finished. And

in hard water -water containing high levels of minerals, soaps react with minerals to form

scum, called soap curd. Soap curd does not dissolve. It is difficult to remove from fabrics,

and it makes the fabric feel stiff.

Because of these drawbacks, laundry soaps have largely been replaced by detergents.

Detergents are synthetic /artificial/ mixtures of ingredients that not only clean clothes but

also prevent redeposition of dirt, discourage scum formation, and have other useful

properties. The most important advantage of detergents is the ability to clean effectively

in hard water.

Both soaps and detergents contain cleaning ingredients known as surfactants. Surfactant

compounds are molecules attracted to the boundary between two liquids that normally do

not dissolve in each other, such as oil and water. One end of the surfactant molecule is

attracted to water but not oil, and the other end is attracted to oil but not to water.

This dual nature of surfactant molecules boosts the “wetting” ability of water. This means

that water containing surfactants can more easily penetrate and disperse dirt and stains.

One end of the surfactant molecule dissolves and emulsifies the grease that traps soil

particles on fabrics. The other end dissolves in the surrounding water. As a result of this

action, one portion of the molecule pulls away from the other, and this force pulls the

grease from the clothes and suspends it in the form of tiny droplets. Washing machine

agitation also helps loosen the greasy soil. After the soil droplets are suspended in the

water, the thin layer of surfactant molecules around them keeps them separated from the







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fabric and prevent them from resettling on the clothes. The suspended droplets and the

soil clinging to them are then easily rinsed away by the water.

The same principle enables hair spray to remove ink and certain other stains from clothes.

Some hair sprays contain alcohol, which behaves chemically in a way similar to

surfactants in detergents. One portion of the alcohol molecule penetrates and emulsifies

the oils that hold the ink pigments in place. Another portion of the alcohol molecule

dissolves in the alcohol solvents also found in hair spray. In this way, hair spray loosens

the ink pigments, which can then be removed by conventional laundering with water and

detergents.

Compounds called enzymes enhance the cleaning action of surfactants. Enzymes are

complex molecules made by living organisms. Often called “biological catalysts,”

enzymes promote certain chemical reactions without themselves being changed.

Enzymatic action is similar to digestive juices in the stomach, which break down food in

preparation for digestion in the intestines. Detergent enzymes, made by bacteria in

factory production vats, react with and break up stains that are made of proteins. Such

stains include blood, meat gravy, milk, eggs, and grass. Enzymes break down these

substances into simpler forms that can be removed by other components in the detergent.



Another group of chemical compounds used in detergents are called builders. Builders

typically make up more than half the weight of a box of detergent. Their principal

function is to soften hard water. These chemicals react with and remove from wash water

certain minerals, particularly those containing calcium and magnesium. Such minerals

can react with surfactants to form scums that deposit on clothes and interfere with

cleaning action. Minerals can also promote redeposition of removed soil particles.

Another function of builders is to make the wash water alkaline. Alkali builders are

chemicals that neutralize acids in the water and aid the breakup of oil and fat molecules

by rupturing their chemical bonds. Some builders act as buffering agents to maintain the

proper alkaline level in the wash water.

Because ordinary baking soda contains an alkali—sodium bicarbonate—baking soda is

handy for neutralizing and removing acid stains such as those made by toilet-bowl

cleaners. Because vinegar contains acetic acid, which is mildly acidic, it is useful for

breaking up and dissolving such alkaline stains as hard-water residues. You also could

use club soda on these residues, because it contains weakly acidic carbonic acid, a

compound not found in plain water.

Some builders also boost the action of surfactants. For example, certain builders help

surfactants suspend loosened dirt and keep it from settling back on clothes. Other builders

help surfactants emulsify greasy soil by breaking the oily particles into tiny globules.

In the 1960's, chemicals called phosphates were the most common builders in

detergents. Phosphates remove minerals from hard water by combining with them. The

compound thus formed is then rinsed away with the water after the clothes are washed.

But phosphates in waste water were found to harm the environment. Detergent

phosphates ultimately ended up in streams and lakes, and because phosphates are

nutrients for algae, the chemicals over fertilized the streams and lakes. The result was

excessive growth of algae. Eventually, the abundance of algae clogged streams and lakes,

setting in motion a process that could kill most of the life in the water. Because of this,









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detergent manufacturers drastically reduced the phosphate content of their products and

began using builders that were less harmful to the environment.

Interestingly, there is no relationship between a detergent's sudsing action and its

cleaning ability. Nevertheless, manufacturers may recommend the use of low sudsing

detergents for front-loading tumbler-type washing machines because high levels of suds

would cushion clothes as they drop back into the water after being lifted out in the

tumbling action. Such a cushioning effect would interfere with the machine's washing

action. To appeal to consumers who prefer various amounts of suds, detergent

manufacturers include in their formulas special sudsing modifiers. These compounds are

long-chain molecules, made from natural fats that can either boost or depress levels of

suds made by dissolved detergents.

Bleaches do not remove dirt particles but make them colorless or nearly colorless. Liquid

chlorine bleach is the most powerful of the chemical bleaches used as laundry aids.

Chlorine bleach not only whitens clothes, but also disinfects and deodorizes them. It can,

however, remove colour from clothes.

A less powerful chemical bleach is oxygen bleach. Because it is safe to use on most

fabrics, oxygen bleach is the one most frequently added to detergents. It is also used in

presoak products to aid in cleaning heavily soiled clothes or in helping to remove

stubborn stains before clothes are put through a normal washing machine cycle.

Some presoak products use enzymes, but these require more time to work than do

products using only oxygen bleach. Also, enzyme presoak products should not be used at

the same time as chlorine bleach, because chlorine bleach destroys enzymes. Other

laundry aids also do not remove dirt or stains, yet they can make clothes appear cleaner.

Whiteners, also known as optical bleaches, consist of organic (carbon-containing)

molecules that can absorb invisible forms of light and, through a complex process at the

atomic level, reemit it as visible blue light. Clothes treated with these compounds come

out of a wash looking both brighter and whiter than they did before being washed.

The hydrogen peroxide found in many medicine cabinets for the treatment of wounds

behaves comparably to the bleach we add to washes. When applied to blood stains, for

example, peroxide liberates oxygen atoms, which turns red blood pigments into less

brightly colored stains. Denture cleaning tablets, which contain oxygen in the same form

found in oxygen bleaches, can similarly decolorize stains made by tea and coffee.

Unfortunately, laundry cleaning agents function only in water, a medium that can damage

some natural fabrics, such as silk and wool, which are water-sensitive. When they are

wet, water-sensitive fibers swell in diameter and shorten, causing the garment to shrink.

The most effective way of removing dirt and stains from water-sensitive articles is dry

cleaning. Dry cleaning is a process in which a liquid other than water is used to dissolve

and flush away oil and grease along with underlying soils. The most useful solvents in

dry cleaning are water-insoluble liquids derived from petroleum, particularly a carbon-

and chlorine-containing compound called perchloroethylene. Dry-cleaning solvents,

unlike water-based detergents, do not repel oil and grease molecules. Instead, the solvents

surround and dissolve these molecules. Many commercial dry cleaners also add special

detergents to their solvents to further loosen soil particles.



The surfactant that ordinary soap is composed of is not as strong a surfactant as most of

its synthetic counter parts are. The mixture of synthetic surfactants that we find in the







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usual laundry detergent are able to provide excellent cleaning properties when we use

them in our washing machines.



However, what impact do these chemicals have upon our bodies?



Most clean laundry carries with it traces of the detergent which was used to launder it.

This left over detergent comes in contact with our bodies.



What is the long term effect of this contact?



If you want to be sure that you are using a truly safe and natural laundry detergent use

ordinary soap where you can. Ordinary old fashioned bar soap, or liquid versions which

can be found in health food stores. You can also buy soap flakes. Soap is a plant derived

surfactant which was made by reacting lye (potassium) with oil from plant sources to

create the good old fashioned soap molecules that our grand mothers used. Using

washing soda along with your soap or soap flakes will prevent water hardness from

putting your soap molecules out of work if you have water which is hard.





But upholstery and carpet cleaning techniques do not necessarily completely remove all

traces of cleaning substances from the area, and enzymes which remain in the fibres of

these household items may become air borne and lead to asthma and respiratory allergies

in susceptible individuals.



Green Seal



This label means that the cleaning product has met rigorous health and environmental

standards which include:

1. Non – corrosive to human body

2. Will not cause illness when absorbed or inhaled

3. Does not contain 2-utylehanol, alkylphenol etholxylate, phthalates, heavy metals,

optical brighteners or ozone-depleting compounds

4. Does not contain any ingredient determined by the UN to be mutagenic

5. Does not contain any reproductive toxin

6. Does not contain any known carcinogenic chemical (based on requirements of 5

different agencies)

7. Can not be combustible, and can not contain air pollutants

8. Must perform as well as a conventional product



There have been a few reports in medical literature about patients suffering from severe

body odour after switching their laundry detergent. This is because the new detergents

interact with your sweat and can change your natural skin chemistry









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Consumers have become much more concerned about how the products they use impact

the health. Unfortunately, it can be difficult for even highly educated consumers to find

out just what ingredients are in certain products, and how they might impact the health

and environment.



Take the leading brand laundry detergents. You certainly won’t get a straight answer by

looking at the ingredients label, where you typically find the following cryptic message:

“Ingredients include surfactants (anionic and nonionic) and enzymes.”



We cannot provide you with specific ingredients used in brand laundry detergents, for a

couple reasons. First of all, companies are not required by law to list their ingredients,

and claim that their formulations are confidential. Secondly, the ingredients they use

change periodically, whether due to reformulation or simply the use of alternative

ingredients to reduce costs. However, the following list of ingredients commonly used in

the leading brands, along with a description of how they impact the environment, should

give you a good idea of what’s really inside:



Alkyl benzene sulfonates or ABS also linear alkyl benzene sulfonates or LAS, linear

alkyl sodium sulfonates.

A class of synthetic surfactants (usually identified as “anionic surfactants.”) ABS are

very slow to biodegrade and seldom used. LAS, however, are the most common

surfactants in use. During the manufacturing process, carcinogens and reproductive

toxins such as benzene are released into the environment. While LAS do biodegrade, they

do so slowly and are of low to moderate toxicity. LAS are synthetic. The pure

compounds may cause skin irritation on prolonged contact. Allergic reactions are rare.

Because oleo-based alternatives are available, LAS should not be used.



Alkyl phenoxy polyethoxy ethanols also nonyl phenoxy ethoxylate or nonyl phenol.



This is a general name for a group of synthetic surfactants. They are slow to biodegrade

in the environment and have been implicated in chronic health problems. Researchers in

England have found that in trace amounts they activate estrogen receptors in cells, which

in turn alters the activity of certain genes. For example, in experiments they have been

found to stimulate the growth of breast cancer cells and feminize male fish. One member

of this family of chemicals is used as a common spermicide, indicating the general level

of high biological toxicity associated with these compounds.



Artificial fragrances /smells/



Artificial fragrances are made from petroleum. Many do not degrade in the environment,

and may have toxic effects on both fish and mammals. Additionally, they often can cause

allergies and skin or eye irritation.









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Diethanolamines also diethanolamine, triethanolamine and monoethanolamine.



A synthetic family of surfactants, this group of compounds is used to neutralize acids in

products to make them non-irritating. Diathanolamines are slow to biodegrade and they

react with natural nitrogen oxides and sodium nitrite pollutants in the atmosphere to form

nitrosamines, a family of potent carcinogens.



EDTA ethylene-diamino-tetra-acetate.



A class of synthetic, phosphate-alternative compounds used to reduce calcium and

magnesium hardness in water. EDTA is also used to prevent bleaching agents from

becoming active before they're immersed in water and as a foaming stabilizer. EDTA

does not readily biodegrade and once introduced into the general environment can re-

dissolve toxic heavy metals trapped in underwater sediments, allowing them to re-enter

and re-circulate in the food chain.



Optical brighteners



Optical brighteners are a broad classification of many different synthetic chemicals that,

when applied to clothing, convert UV light wavelengths to visible light, thus making

laundered clothes appear "whiter." Their inclusion in any formula does not enhance or

affect the product's performance in any way; they simply trick the eye. Optical

brighteners do not readily biodegrade. They are toxic to fish when washed into the

general environment and can create bacterial mutations. They can cause allergic reaction

when in contact with skin that is then exposed to sunlight. Most optical brighteners are

given trade names which consumers are unlikely to see on a label.



Petroleum distillates also naphthas.



A broad category encompassing almost every type of chemical obtained directly from

petroleum refining process. Any ingredient listed as a "petroleum distillate" or

"naphtha" should be suspect as it is, firstly a synthetic and, secondly, likely to cause

one or more detrimental health or environmental effects.



Phosphates



A key nutrient in ecosystems, phosphates are natural minerals important to the

maintenance of all life. Their role in laundry detergents is to remove hard water minerals

and thus increase the effectiveness of the detergents themselves. They are also a

deflocculating agent; that is, they prevent dirt from settling back onto clothes during

washing. While relatively non-irritating and non-toxic in the environment, they

nonetheless contribute to significant eutrophication of waterways and create unbalanced

ecosystems by fostering dangerously explosive marine plant growth. For these reasons

they are banned or restricted in many states. Products containing phosphates should be

considered unacceptable.









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Note: The major laundry detergent manufacturers no longer use phosphates in their

formulations.



Polycarboxylates



Similar in chemical structure to certain plastics and acrylic compounds, these are

relatively new, synthetic phosphate substitutes. Because they are recent additions to the

consumer product chemical arsenal, however, their effects on human and environmental

health remain largely unknown. Though tests show they are non-toxic, do not interfere

with treatment plant operation and generally settle out with the sludge during water

treatment, until further study and analysis are conducted, use of this ingredient is not

recommended. Further, they are not biodegradable and are petroleum based.



Polyethylene glycol (also PEG).



Another type of anti-redeposition agent, PEG is a polymer made from ethylene oxide and

is similar to some non-ionic detergents. Not considered toxic, it takes large doses to be

lethal in animals. However, PEG is slow to degrade and is synthetic.



Quaternium 15



An alkyl ammonium chloride used as a surfactant, disinfectant and deodorant that

releases formaldehyde, a potent toxin.



Xylene sulfonate



Xylene is a synthetic that, when reacted with sulfuric acid, creates a surfactant. Slow to

biodegrade in the environment and moderately toxic.



Surfactants



Positive Environmental Characteristic: Biodegrade readily to compounds with low

toxicity. Example: Straight carbon chain compounds like linear alcohol ethoxylates or

betaine esters.

Key Characteristics of Concern: Toxicity to aquatic organisms, like fish (vertebrates),

daphnids (invertebrates) and algae; persistence in the environment; toxicity of

biodegradation byproducts.

Example: Alkylphenol ethoxylates--biodegrade under anaerobic conditions to

alkylphenols, which persist in the environment, have high toxicity to aquatic organisms,

and may be endocrine disruptors (compounds that adversely affect the endocrine system

that controls metabolism, reproduction, and growth).



Builders



Positive Environmental Characteristic: Low toxicity, low impact on the environment.

Example: Zeolites, also known as aluminosilicates.







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Key Characteristic of Concern: Potential to cause eutrophication in fresh water

eutrophication is the process by which a body of water becomes rich in dissolved

nutrients, diminishing oxygen levels and a water body's ability to support various forms

of aquatic life.

Example: Inorganic phosphates.



Bleaches



Positive Environmental Characteristic: Low toxicity, no toxic by-products. Example:

Hydrogen peroxide or ozone.

Key Characteristics of Concern: Inherent toxicity and toxic by-products.

Examples:

Sodium hypochlorite, which can form hazardous gases and chlorinated organic

byproducts; may also damage fibers in clothing and fabrics, which can lead to the

generation of excess lint, a potential fire hazard during drying; Sodium perborate, which

can present both human health and ecological concerns; and Dichloro-isocyanurate may

form toxic gas, nitrogen-trichloride, a threat to human health.



Colorants



Positive Environmental Characteristic: Low toxicity to humans and aquatic organisms.

Minimize colorant use whenever possible.

Key Characteristic of Concern: Toxicity. Studies indicate that certain colorants may

cause cancer or other adverse health effects in humans (e..g., Rhodamine B). Metalized

dyes present health and environmental concerns.



Optical Brighteners



Positive Environmental Characteristic: Low toxicity to humans and the environment.

Example: Coumarin derivative,

Key Characteristic of Concern: Potential toxicity to humans.

Examples: Aminotriazine- or stilbene-based whiteners. Toxicity data indicate that these

compounds may cause developmental and reproductive effects.



Solvents



Positive Environmental Characteristic: Low toxicity to humans and the environment.

Example: Propylene glycol ethers.

Key Characteristic of Concern: Toxicity to humans and aquatic organisms.

Examples: For human health concerns, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether; for

environmental concerns, d-limonene.



Wash Water



Key characteristics of concern: Highly caustic or acidic wash environments; may cause

severe irritation or burns to living tissue in humans or aquatic organisms.







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Example: High alkaline breaks, low pH sours. Highly alkaline ingredients can lead to

alkaline hydrolysis on polyester fibers, shortening linen life. Extreme pH effluents may

also damage pipes and sewer lines.



Principal chemicals found in scented “nice fresh smell formulas” products are:



ACETONE



Cologne, dishwashing liquid and detergent, nail enamel remover- On EPA, RCRA,

CERCLA Hazardous Waste lists. "Inhalation can cause dryness of the mouth and throat;

dizziness, nausea, incoordination, slurred speech, drowsiness, and, in severe exposures,

coma." "Acts primarily as a central nervous system (CNS) depressant."



BENZALDEHYDE



Perfume, cologne, hairspray, laundry bleach, deodorants, detergent, vaseline lotion,

shaving cream, shampoo, bar soap, dishwasher detergent) - Narcotic. Sensitizer. "Local

anesthetic, Central Nerve System depressant/ CNS/"... "Irritation to the mouth, throat,

eyes, skin, lungs, and GI tract causing nausea and abdominal pain." "May cause kidney

damage." "Do not use with contact lenses."



BENZYL ACETATE



Perfume, cologne, shampoo, fabric softener, stickup air freshener, dishwashing liquid and

detergent, soap, hairspray, bleach, after shave, deodorants) - Carcinogenic (linked to

pancreatic cancer); "From vapors: irritating to eyes and respiratory passages, exciting

cough." "In mice: hyperaemia of the lungs." "Can be absorbed through the skin causing

systemic effects." "Do not flush to sewer."



BENZYL ALCOHOL



Perfume, cologne, soap, shampoo, nail enamel remover, air freshener!!!!!, laundry bleach

and detergent, Vaseline lotion, deodorants, fabric softener - "irritating to the upper

respiratory tract" ... "headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, drop in blood pressure, CNS

depression, and death in severe cases due to respiratory failure."



CAMPHOR



Perfume, shaving cream, nail enamel, fabric softener, dishwasher detergent, nail color,

stickup air freshener - "local irritant and CNS stimulant" ..."readily absorbed through

body tissues" ..."irritation of eyes, nose and throat" ..."dizziness, confusion, nausea,

twitching muscles and convulsions" "Avoid inhalation of vapors."









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ETHANOL -Denatured



Perfume, hairspray, shampoo, fabric softener, dishwashing liquid and detergent, laundry

detergent, shaving cream, soap, Vaseline lotion, air fresheners, nail color and remover,

paint and varnish remover - On EPA Hazardous Waste list; symptoms: "...fatigue;

irritating to eyes and upper respiratory tract even in low concentrations..." "Inhalation of

ethanol vapors can have effects similar to those characteristic of ingestion. These include

an initial stimulatory effect followed by drowsiness, impaired vision, ataxia, stupor..."

Causes CNS disorder. Note: this refers to denatured ethanol, which is commonly used in

the cosmetic industry, not to drinking alcohol.



ETHYL ACETATE



After shave, cologne, perfume, shampoo, nail color, nail enamel remover, fabric softener,

dishwashing liquid) - Narcotic. On EPA Hazardous Waste list; "...irritating to the eyes

and respiratory tract" ..."may cause headache and narcosis (stupor)" ..."defatting effect on

skin and may cause drying and cracking" ..."may cause anemia with leukocytosis and

damage to liver and kidneys" "Wash thoroughly after handling."



LIMONENE



Perfume, cologne, disinfectant spray, bar soap, shaving cream, deodorants, nail color and

remover, fabric softener, dishwashing liquid, air fresheners, after shave, bleach, paint and

varnish remover) - Carcinogenic. "Prevent its contact with skin or eyes because it is an

irritant and sensitizer." "Always wash thoroughly after using this material and before

eating, drinking, ...applying cosmetics. Do not inhale limonene vapor."



LINALOOL



Perfume, cologne, bar soap, shampoo, hand lotion, nail enamel remover, hairspray,

laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid, Vaseline lotion, air fresheners, bleach powder,

fabric softener, shaving cream, after shave, solid deodorant) - Narcotic. ..."respiratory

disturbances" ... "Attracts bees." "In animal tests: ataxic gait, reduced spontaneous motor

activity and depression ... development of respiratory disturbances leading to death."

..."depressed frog-heart activity." Causes CNS disorder.



METHYLENE CHLORIDE



Shampoo, cologne, paint and varnish remover - Banned by the FDA /USA/ in 1988! No

enforcement possible due to trade secret laws protecting chemical fragrance industry. On

EPA, RCRA, CERCLA Hazardous Waste lists. "Carcinogenic" ..."Absorbed, stored in

body fat, it metabolizes to carbon monoxide, reducing oxygen-carrying capacity of the

blood." "Headache, giddiness, stupor, irritability, fatigue, tingling in the limbs." Causes

CNS disorder.









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a-PINENE

Bar and liquid soap, cologne, perfume, shaving cream, deodorants, dishwashing liquid,

air freshener - Sensitizer -damaging to the immune system.



g-TERPINENE



Cologne, perfume, soap, shaving cream, deodorant, air freshener - "Causes asthma and

CNS disorders."



a-TERPINEOL



Perfume, cologne, laundry detergent, bleach powder, laundry bleach, fabric softener,

stickup air freshener, Vaseline lotion, cologne, soap, hairspray, after shave, roll-on

deodorant) - ..."highly irritating to mucous membranes"... "Aspiration into the lungs can

produce pneumonitis or even fatal edema." Can also cause "excitement, ataxia (loss of

muscular coordination), hypothermia, CNS and respiratory depression, and headache."

"Prevent repeated or prolonged skin contact."



1,8-cineole



Is the same thing as eucalyptol (eucalyptus oil), which is a well known porphyria-

inducing chemical. Malaleuca oil (tea tree oil) contains the same ingredient, and has been

observed to cause severe central nervous system symptoms in pets and small children.

Eucalyptol is also called limonene oxide. Actually, limonene (d-limonene) is not a skin

irritant until it undergoes oxidation (probably to the eucalyptol/cineole form of limonene

oxide). For this reason you are supposed to store limonene in air-tight containers in the

dark.



Relevant Facts:



95% of chemicals used in fragrances are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum.

They include benzene derivatives, aldehydes and many other known toxics and

sensitizers - capable of causing cancer, birth defects, central nervous system disorders

and allergic reactions. Neurotoxins: At Home and the Workplace, Report by the

Committee on Science & Technology, U.S. House of Representatives, Sept. 16, 1986.

(Report 99-827)



Central Nervous System disorders (brain and spine) include Multiple Sclerosis,

Parkinson's Disease, Alzheimer's Disease, Sudden Infant Death Syndrome.

Chloroform was found in tests of fabric softeners.

A room containing an air freshener had high levels of p-dichlorobenzene (a carcinogen)

and ethanol: EPA's study.



An FDA /USA/ old analysis (1968-1972) of 138 compounds used in cosmetics that most

frequently involved adverse reactions, identified five chemicals (alpha-terpineol, benzyl







11

acetate, benzyl alcohol, limonene and linalool) that are among the 20 most commonly

used in the 31 fragrance products tested by the EPA in 1991! What’s we can expect in

products today!



Thirty-three million individuals of 200 mil population suffer from sinusitis (inflammation

or infection of sinus passages).

Ten million of the same citizens have asthma. Asthma and asthma deaths have increased

over 30% in the past 10 years.

Headaches cost $50 billion in lost productivity and medical expenses and 157 million lost

work days in single year. /"Focus on Fragrance and Health," by Louise Kosta, The

Human Ecologist, Fall 1992. /



As usually I do offer solution and help.



At first you have to manage how to make soaps as I do not believe you will find them

easy in healthy shop. Bar soaps from India or China can be worse as there is no real

control what chemicals can be in products. All is driven by business system “profit for

any price”!



At first you have to learn how to make natural soap.



Home made soaps:



Making soap at home is a rewarding and fun activity. Although it may seem daunting at

first, if taken step by step, you will find it is no more difficult than baking a cake. Once

you have mastered the few skills needed, you will be able to whip up a batch in an hour

or so and will never have to use store-bought soap again. You will also have wonderful

gifts for friends.

Soap is a result of a chemical reaction that occurs when fat and sodium hydroxide/

diluted solution of corrosive substance/ are mixed together. You do not have to

understand why this reaction occurs nor will you be asked to explain it later. Be happy

that it does work and that you can take all the credit for this nifty little exercise in better

living through chemistry.



There was a time when home-made soap had a rather poor reputation because it was

invariably made from lard (not a recommended fat choice) and caustic soda/sodium

hydroxide- wood ash, lye, red devil-….. of uncertain strength. The resulting product was

smelly, harsh, and often left a nasty and persistent rash after use. This soap was made

only to save money, using the cheapest ingredients available. Today, it is possible to

make exceptional soaps in your kitchen, using exotic ingredients, easily obtainable at

local shops or through the mail. Once you have mastered the few simple skills required,

you will never again feel tempted.

Castile soap is one of the simplest fine soaps to make. It requires only three ingredients,

two of which can be found in the grocery store, and tap water. This recipe produces a

mild soap that lathers lavishly and does not leave your skin feeling tight. Cocoa butter









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can be added for super-fatting, and essential oils for scenting, and, while not absolutely

necessary, both are easy to find and add greatly to your finished product.

This recipe was carefully developed so that it is not necessary to handle the caustic soda

very much. Please follow the recipe exactly and do not make any substitutions. If you do

this, you will make wonderful soap the first time you try.

Before you begin, you will need to assemble a few simple tools and your ingredients. The

key word here is "non-reactive" so every thing will have to be either stainless steel, glass,

plastic, or wood. NEVER use aluminium or cracked enamel pots for soap!



You will need:



A stainless steel or enamelled /is best/ pot large enough to hold all the ingredients

A glass container for the caustic soda

Something to stir the soap and caustic soda with, wood is good for soap, heavy-duty

plastic is best.

A plastic-lined box or storage container to mold the soap

A meat thermometer for the fat and a candy thermometer for the soap solution



Castile Soap



340 g of Sodium Hydroxide /Caustic Soda/ sold in any hardware store in 1 kg bottles

1000 ml of cold tap water

1360 g of olive oil, soya, sunflower, vegetable, …….any



THE METHOD:



Wear goggles, gloves, respirator-mask and open window! Put glass jar with cold water

to sink add COLD water to sink for cooling glass jar during dilution of Caustic soda

crystals add 340 g of crystals you weight to separate container /the whole bottle with

crystals has to be put back to storage place immediately after separating needed

quantity/ and add weighted quantity /340 g/ of crystals very slowly to COLD water in

jar, stirring with a sturdy plastic spoon to aid in dissolving the crystals. This is a VERY

caustic /corrosive and HOT reaction solution, please be careful. No children, pets,

hysteric husband / wife should be around you. Once you get past this bit, the rest is

relatively hazard-free.



While the caustic soda solution is cooling in the sink, put all the fat and olive oil in your

non-reactive soap pot and heat gently until it reaches about 37*C on the meat

thermometer, then try to keep it at this temperature. In the meantime, the lye will have

cooled somewhat and you will be able to hasten this by setting the container in cool

water. Your objective is to get the solution of caustic soda and fat to the same

temperature of approximately 37*C. Do use a glass candy thermometer to check the

temperature of the caustic soda solution. Don't be obsessive about it.

When the optimum temperature is reached, slowly begin pouring the caustic soda

solution into the fat, stirring all the time- use of hand like stick/bar looking blender saves

you a lot of time.







13

/ see detailed instructions on best homemade soap page:

http://www.millersoap.com/soapproc.html#Stick Blender/

Please don't slop the caustic soda solution onto your skin, take your time and work

carefully. Once the caustic soda solution is thoroughly combined with the fat, you should

no longer have to worry about accidentally burning yourself. It is soap. Continue to stir

this mixture for 20 minutes to an hour, / with hand blender 5 min./ until you can see a

trace on the surface when you drag the spoon across it. Once you see this happen, you

will always recognize it. Formation of the trace indicates that saponification has begun.

Once you see the trace, it means that the caustic soda solution and fat are being combined

chemically into a new compound, soap. Heat is a result of all chemical reactions and you

will notice that the temperature of your soap pot has increased. This is good! One of the

secrets of making easy and perfect soap is to allow the reaction to exhaust itself so that all

the caustic soda solution is combined into the soap. If the saucepan is allowed to cool

down too fast, you will still have soap, but the un-combined caustic soda solution will

precipitate out as a film of caustic soda crystals on the surface of the bar when is has

cured for some time. You can choose to keep the reaction going or deal with it later. The

best solution is to keep it going until all the caustic soda is absorbed by fat.

If you make your soap on a warm sunny day, cover the pot and wrap it in a black plastic

bag. Set the pot in the sun for several hours. If this is not practical, cover the pot and

place in the oven at the lowest temperature setting and leave the door little open. Try to

keep the saucepan at about 50*C for several hours.

If you skip this step, you will have to shave off the free caustic soda dust before using the

soap. Otherwise, you will burn your skin. French milling is another solution and involves

grating the hard soap, adding water, and re-cooking it. Both of these solutions require

extra steps later and are easier to avoid by allowing the reaction to exhaust naturally.

When you are satisfied that the reaction is complete it is time to add any super-fatting

ingredients such as cocoa butter or extra olive oil and essential oils for scent. If you are

using cocoa butter, melt it first and then stir it into the soap along with the fragrance oils.

As the soap will be very warm now, stir for awhile until it thickens and you can see the

trace again. Pour the soap into the previously prepared mold -containers, cover with a lid

and wrap it with blankets. You want the soap to cool very slowly so put it in a warm and

protected spot.

The next day, you can uncover your new soap and inspect it. It should be firm and glossy

on top. Castile soap gets very hard, so you will want to cut it into smaller bars while it is

still soft enough to cut without shattering. Allow these small bars to cure for about 30

days before using. This is the most difficult part of soap making, waiting for it to cure

before the first use. Be patient and remember, soap gets better with age, as long as it is

kept dry it will continue to improve. Soap does not spoil.

Olive oil comes in many grades. For soap making, the least expensive grade, pure or

pomace is preferred. It is actually easier to use and is much cheaper.



Manufacture of soft soaps



The saponification of fats with KOH- potasium hydroxide is used to prepare the

corresponding "potassium soaps," which are softer than the more common sodium

hydroxide-derived soaps. Because of their softness and greater solubility, potassium







14

soaps require less water to liquefy, and can thus contain more cleaning agent than

liquefied sodium soaps.



For further recipes, detailed instructions look on Internet:

http://www.millersoap.com/index.html



Please never use artificial chemicals that are in many recipes, use only natural

ingrediences, other ways you can go to any shop and buy soaps full of artificial

chemicals.





Caustic soda -Sodium Hydroxide was made by burning hard wood and ash used to make

soaps in past centuries.



Various usage of Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also known as lye and caustic soda. It is

used in many industries, mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and

paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner.

Sodium hydroxide is produced (along with chlorine and hydrogen) via the chloralkali

process. This involves the electrolysis of an aqueous solution of sodium chloride. The

sodium hydroxide builds up at the cathode, where water is reduced to hydrogen gas and

hydroxide ion. Sodium hydroxide is traditionally used in soap making (cold process soap,

saponification).It was made in the nineteenth century for a hard surface rather than liquid

product because it was easier to store. Food industry uses of sodium hydroxide include

washing or chemical peeling of fruits and vegetables, chocolate and cocoa processing,

caramel coloring production, poultry scalding, soft drink processing, and thickening ice

cream. Olives are often soaked in sodium hydroxide to soften them, while pretzels and

German lye rolls are glazed with a sodium hydroxide solution before baking to make

them crisp.



Specific foods processed with sodium hydroxide include:



 The Pinoy or Filipino kakanin called kutsinta have lye to jellify the kutsinta.

 Also the Filipino kakanin called pitsi-pitsi or pichi-pichi (pit-chi-pit-chi) also have

a small amount of lye.

 The Scandinavian delicacy known as lutefisk (from lutfisk, "lye fish").

 Hominy is dried maize (corn) kernels reconstituted by soaking in lye-water. These

expand considerably in size and may be further processed by frying to make corn

nuts or by drying and grinding to make grits. Nixtamal is similar, but uses calcium

hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide.

 Sodium hydroxide is also the chemical that causes gelling of egg whites in the

production of Century eggs.

 German pretzels are poached in a cold sodium hydroxide solution before baking,

which contributes to their unique crust.

 Most yellow coloured Chinese noodles are made with lye-water but are

commonly mistaken for containing egg.









15

Sodium hydroxide has been used as a relaxer to straighten hair. However, because of

the high incidence and intensity of chemical burns, sodium hydroxide relaxers are

still available, used mostly by professionals in hair sallons.



Sodium hydroxide is used in the home as a drain cleaning agent for clearing clogged

drains. It is distributed as a dry crystal or as a thick liquid gel.



Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions of sodium hydroxide will cause chemical burns,

permanent injury or scarring, and blindness if it contacts unprotected human or

animal tissue. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves, safety clothing and

eye protection should always be used when handling the material or its solutions.



Dissolution of sodium hydroxide is highly exothermic, /producing heat/ and the

resulting heat may cause heat burns or ignite flammable materials.



Do you feel now to eat supermarket, restaurant or gurman “fine dellicatesse” food?

This is only one chemical used in various industries! There are thousands of others - a

mixture never nobody tested in relation to only one day chemical exposure to human

body. Are you surprise you are only alergic? This is not a panic creating news, it is

reality of today’s life!





Here is list of different homemade laundry detergent recipes.

At the time we had a relative who was in trade school. Every day he was greased from

head to toe–the clothes cleaned up nice by homemade laundry detergent!

Washing Soda and Borax can normally be found in the laundry and cleaning aisles.

Some people with really hard water or well water may have to adjust the recipes if the

clothes look dingy.

Although several of the recipes have the same ingredients, the measurements are

different–some contain a higher soap to water ratio. Test and see which works best for

your laundry needs.

You can make huge drums of this at once, or smaller quantities. Also if you can get your

hands on a few empty liquid laundry detergent bottles they work great for storing the

detergent. Just make a big batch and pour in bottles, cap then use as needed–shake before

use.



10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes:



Laundry -liquid gels:



Recipe 1.



1000 ml of Hot Water (boiling)

500 ml Bar soap (shredded)

500 ml of Borax

500 ml of Washing Soda







16

Add finely shredded bar soap to the boiling water and stir until soap is melted. You can

keep on low heat until soap is melted.

Pour the soap water into a large, clean pail and add the Borax and Washing Soda. Stir

well until all is dissolved.

Add 7500 ml of water, stir until well mixed.

Cover barrel and use 50 ml cup for each load of laundry. Stir the soap each time you use

it (will gel).



Recipe 2.



1000 ml of Hot water

250 ml of Washing Soda

125 ml of Borax

1 Soap bar /200g/

Shred bar soap and add to a large saucepan with hot water. Stir over medium-low heat

until soap dissolves and is melted.

Fill a 7500ml / 7,5 L / barrel half full of hot water. Add the melted soap, borax and

Washing soda, stir well until all powder is dissolved. Top the barrel up with more hot

water.

Use 250 ml cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).



Recipe 3.



1000 ml of Hot Water

125 ml of Washing Soda

125ml of Borax

75 ml of bar Soap (shredded)

In a large saucepan -barrel, heat 1500 ml of water. Add the shredded bar soap and stir

until melted. Then add the washing soda and borax. Stir until powder is dissolved, then

remove from heat.

In a 7500 ml /7,5 Litres/ clean barrel, pour 1000ml of hot water and add the heated soap

mixture. Fill barrel with cold water and stir well.

Use 250ml cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).



Recipe 4.



1000 ml of Hot water

125 g of Ivory Soap – shredded

250 ml of Washing Soda

In a large saucepan add shredded soap and enough hot water to cover. Heat over medium-

low heat and stir until soap is melted.

Fill a large pail with 7500 ml of hot water, add hot soap mixture. Stir until well mixed.

Then add the washing soda, again stirring until well mixed.

Set aside to cool.

Use 125 ml cup per full load of washing machine, stirring well before each use (will gel)









17

Recipe 5.

1000 ml of Hot Water

200g of shredded soap bar

200 ml of Washing Soda

200 ml of Borax

40 ml of Glycerin

Melt bar soap over medium-low heat topped with water, stir until soap is melted.

In a large pail, pour 9500 ml of hot water, add melted soap mixture, washing soda, borax

and glycerin. Mix well.

Use 125 ml cup per full washing machine load.



Recipe 6.



1000ml of Hot water

500ml of shredded Bar soap

500 ml of Washing Soda



Melt shredded soap in saucepan with water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir

until soap is dissolved.

Pour 7500-9500 ml of hot water in large barrel, add hot soap and washing soda. Stir very

well.

Use 250 ml per full load.



Recipe 7.



1000 ml of Hot water

200g shredded bar Soap

500ml Baking soda -yes baking soda this time–not washing soda.



Melt shredded soap in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover. Cook on medium-low

heat, stirring frequently until soap is melted.

In a large barrel, pour 9500ml of hot water. Add melted soap, stir well.

Then add the baking soda, stir well again.

Use 125 ml per full load, 250 ml per very soiled cloth load.





Powdered Laundry Detergents



Recipe 1.



500 ml of bar Soap (finely shreded – you could also try the other bar soaps listed at the

top)

250 ml of Washing Soda

250 ml of Borax

Mix well and store in an airtight plastic container.

Use 2 tablespoons - 30 ml per full load.







18

Recipe 2.



3000 ml of Borax

1900ml of Baking Soda

1900 ml of Washing Soda

1900 ml of Bar soap (shredded)

Mix all ingredients well and store in a sealed tub.

Use 40 ml of powder per full load.



Recipe 3.



250 ml of Vinegar (white)

250 ml of Baking Soda

250 ml of Washing Soda

60 ml of liquid castile soap

Mix well and store in sealed container.

I find it easiest to pour the liquid soap into the bowl first, stirred in the washing soda, then

baking soda, then added the vinegar in small batches at a time (the recipe foams up at

first). The mixture is a thick paste at first that will break down into a heavy powdered

detergent, just keep mixing. There may be some hard lumps, try to break them down

when mixing (it really helps to make sure the baking soda isn’t clumpy when first

adding). Use 125 ml per full load with great results.



Liquid Detergents Note:



Soap will be gel-like. This is normal. Just give it a good stir before using. Make sure

laundry detergent is covered with a lid when not in use.

Optional you can add between 10 to 15 drops of essential oil ( per 9,5 Litres ) to your

homemade laundry detergent. Add once the soap has cooled to room temperature. Stir

well and cover.

Essential oil ideas: lavender, rosemary, tea tree oil







FAQ:



How do you shred soap?



I use a handheld cheese grater but you can also use a food processor (just make sure you

clean it well after use). Shred soap first before adding to a food processor and chop until

fine.









19

How long can homemade laundry detergent be stored for?



The powdered version seems to last forever, but I have no exact expiry date to advice.

The liquid detergent also lasts a long time, but will thicken up over time. It was also

suggested in the comments area that bacteria may grow in the detergent if it’s stored too

long. Use always up to 6 month.



Aren’t Washing Soda & Borax Caustic? Poisonous? Are they safe to handle?



As with all soaps and cleaners, common sense is needed when handling soaps and

detergents–homemade laundry detergent ingredients are not excluded from this. Going

against dire, dire warnings about how dangerous Borax and Washing Soda are to the skin,

I handled all ingredients with bare hands and experienced no burns and all flesh is still

intact. If I had small cuts or scrapes on my skin, my experience may have been different.

To be safe you may wish to use rubber gloves. Avoid breathing in any of the powders and

ingredients. I imagine breathing in a mouthful of commercial laundry detergent, or

getting it in my eyes or up my nose, would be very uncomfortable and unwise, the same

goes for homemade detergent ingredients. It goes without saying: Don’t eat it to find out

if it’s poisonous or not. And of course: Keep this out of reach of children just like you

would for any other cleaner, detergent or soap.



Can Homemade Laundry Detergent be used in cold water instead of hot?



Sure it can. If you notice clothes don’t come out as clean as you’d like, try a laundry

booster such as vinegar.



Can Homemade Laundry Detergent be used for washing baby clothes & diapers?



Avoid fabric softeners and products that contain dyes and perfumes, and keep an eye out

for signs of an allergic reaction. Before washing any garment for the first time, read the

care label. Baby sleepwear, in particular, often needs special care because it is required

by law to be flame-resistant, /chemicals added to fibres/ and some soaps can hinder

flame resistance. You may want to wash the baby's clothes separately from the rest of the

family's, but this isn't necessary, as long as you use a mild soap. If you prefer not to use

chemicals on baby's clothes, try these natural options suggested by Annie Berthold-Bond

in "Clean and Green" (Ceres Press, 1994). Be sure to rinse the clothes thoroughly as most

of washing machines do not rinse properly use twice rinsing cycle. Keep these and all

household products out of the reach of children



Will Homemade Laundry Detergent fade dark coloured clothing?



I have noticed no fading or damage to clothing. I’ve laundered work clothes, everyday

clothes and office attire in homemade detergents.

Freshly laundered clothes smell like Nothing!









20

Can you add essential oils for fragrance to homemade detergent? If so, how much do I

add?



Essential oils are a nice touch to homemade detergents -freshly laundered clothes really

don’t have any nice fragrance added with homemade detergent. How much you add

depends on how strong the fragrance is that you’ve chosen and what laundry detergent

recipe you are using. Experiment for yourself to see what you like best. You can add

between 10 to 15 drops of essential oil 9500 ml to your homemade laundry detergent.



Is there a Soap residue on clothes after washing with homemade detergent?



I haven’t noticed it but if you do, here are a couple things you can try: Increase the water

amount, decrease the load size or decrease the detergent used per wash. You can also try

a vinegar rinse add vinegar during the rinse cycle.



Why aren’t there any suds in the water when I use homemade detergent?



Homemade detergents are low sudsing, you won’t see many suds in the wash. No

worries, this is normal and your clothes will still come out clean.



After mixing ingredients together, the detergent smells really strong & foul–what’s

wrong?



The brand of soap bar you used is likely causing a chemical reaction with the other

ingredients. Use home made soap bars.



Not *any* Laundry detergents should be used in the garden. Detergents are not the same

as soap and can damage plants. You should always make sure the soap container actually

says “soap” on the label before using it in the garden.



Just some clarification for those of you asking about washing soda and borax and the

safety of handling them. Borax is harmless to the skin and is non-toxic if swallowed-

HOWEVER borax is a violent laxative if ingested. That means violent on both ends. You

should try to avoid breathing it in as it will irritate the respiratory tract. Borax is a

common ingredient in children’s “slime” and putty like toys (allows for gelling).

Washing soda (ash) is irritating to the skin and should not be handled excessively without

wearing some simple household gloves, respiratory mask and goggles. When mixed with

water if produces carbonic acid which can cause mild burns on some people’s skin.

Contrary to what some have said it is not the same as baking soda and is not safe to be

ingested. Washing soda may irritate the respiratory tract considerably if the powder is

inhaled. Just because ingredients are naturally occurring (which both borax and soda are)

does not make them harmless (a classic example being poison ivy).

The main siding ingredient in shops detergents is sodium lauryl sulfate. As a powder it is

extremely caustic and if inhaled will damage the respiratory tract as it kills live cells and

splits open their membranes. It is more toxic than both borax and washing soda and yet

we rub it all over our bodies every day in shampoos, soaps and detergents.







21

Handle the ingredients with the caution that you would any household cleaner and keep

them out of reach of small children and pets. Keep in mind that people were washing

their clothes by hand using these ingredients for centuries before commercial

detergent was even invented. When in doubt, wear gloves!



I am a materials scientist and I work for a pharmaceuticals company. I hope this helps

clarify the issue for those of you who were asking!



Borax:

Borax pentahydrate /sodium borate/ is a white odourless, powdered substance that is not

flammable, combustible, or explosive, and has low acute oral and dermal toxicity.

POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS

Inhalation is the most significant route of exposure in occupational and other settings.

Dermal exposure is not usually a concern because borax pentahydrate is poorly absorbed

through intact skin.

INHALATION

Occasional mild irritation effects to nose and throat may occur from inhalation of borax

pentahydrate dusts at levels greater than 10 mg/m3.

EYE CONTACT

Borax pentahydrate is a mild eye irritant.

SKIN CONTACT

Borax pentahydrate does not cause irritation to intact skin.

INGESTION

Products containing borax pentahydrate are notintended for ingestion. Borax

pentahydrate has low acute toxicity. Small amounts (e.g. a teaspoonful) swallowed

accidentally are not likely to cause effects; swallowing amounts larger than that may

cause gastrointestinal symptoms.

REPRODUCTIVE/DEVELOPMENTAL

Animal ingestion studies in several species, at high doses, indicate that borates cause

reproductive and developmental effects. A human study of occupational exposure to

borate dust showed no adverse effect on reproduction.

POTENTIAL ECOLOGICAL EFFECTS

Large amounts of borax pentahydrate can be harmful to plants and other species.

Therefore releases to the environment should be minimised.

SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF EXPOSURE

Symptoms of accidental over-exposure to borax pentahydrate have been associated with

ingestion or absorption through large areas of damaged skin. These may include nausea,

vomiting, and diarrhoea, with delayed effects of skin redness and peeling



I hope you enjoy this article and good luck with cooking your detergents!

Ladi









22

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