birding out of africa
madeira
dizzy heighTs
TexT & phoTographs by Jens Kriese and gabriele prochnow
The island of Madeira, also known as the floating
garden of the Atlantic Ocean, covers an area of only
737 square kilometres. Its capital, Funchal, is a well-
known cruise-ship destination and Madeira attracts
almost one million visitors annually. At first glance, this
does not bode well for a good birding venue. Well, it is
– and there is much more. If we could characterise the
island of Madeira in a single word, it would be ‘diversity’.
And if we could add a second word, it would be ‘ac-
cessibility’. You need only travel a short distance from
the very touristy places around Funchal and along the
south-eastern coast to realise that this island has a few
surprises in store.
T
he island of Madeira is situ- islands are nature reserves and may only Above The Madeira Firecrest is the small-
ated in the Atlantic Ocean, be visited as part of a guided tour. est of Madeira’s birds. Its active behaviour
about 900 kilometres from the Together with the archipelagos of the often makes this endemic difficult to locate.
Portuguese capital of Lisbon, Canary Islands, the Azores and Cape
and 630 kilometres west of the Moroccan Verde, Madeira forms what is known as Opposite Space is limited on Madeira,
coast. Politically and culturally it belongs Macaronesia, the ‘fortunate islands’ as it so houses and fields are constructed on
to Europe, but geographically it is part of translates from the Greek. All the islands amazingly steep slopes, such as the Curral
the African Plate. Madeira is, in fact, not are volcanic in origin and evidence of das Freiras.
a single island but an archipelago con- this can still be found in many places – if
sisting of two inhabited islands, Madeira you are interested in vulcanology, don’t form the backbone of the island. In
and Porto Santo, and two uninhab- miss the ‘Grutas de São Vicente’, where the northern half, spectacular ravines
ited island chains, the Desertas and the you can walk in old lava tubes and learn are covered with lush subtropical laurel
Savage islands. about Madeira’s geological past. forest, while the coastline is charac-
The distance from Madeira to the Despite the fact that Madeira is only terised by steep cliffs. The south is far
neighbouring Desertas Islands and Porto 57 kilometres long and 22 kilometres drier and is dominated by agriculture
Santo is 37 kilometres and 50 kilo- wide, the island features an amazing and urban settlements. And last but not
metres respectively. The Savage Islands variety of habitats. Roughly speaking, least, at the eastern tip is the desert-like
are 230 kilometres south of Madeira, along the central part, a high plateau peninsula, Ponta de São Lourenço.
and 165 kilometres north of the Canary and a mountain range with elevations The volcanic origin of Madeira sug-
Islands. Both the Desertas and the Savage up to 1 861 metres above sea level gests that it has never been part
62 madeira africa – birds & birding october/november 2007 madeira 63
PORTUGAL
SPAIN
Azores Lisbon
AT L A N T I C O C E A N
carefully. We highly recommend the
Madeira
PORTO Islands casablanca company Ventura do Mar, which runs a
SANTO
beautiful sailing ship of the same name,
MOROCCO and has friendly and knowledgeable
porto Moniz Savage
Islands staff. Their tours range from a half-day
são Vicente trip along the coast of Madeira to visits
to the other islands of the archipelago.
Canary
MADEIRA Pico do Arieiro Islands During trips to the Desertas Islands,
Ponta de São
funchal
Lourenço you might even see Zino’s and Fea’s
Ponta da Cruz petrels, but they are usually impos-
WESTERN
SAHARA sible to distinguish at sea. Fea’s Petrel,
also called Bugio’s Petrel, is endemic to
DESERTAS
ISLANDS Macaronesia and breeds on the Desertas
MAURITANIA Island of Bugio. There is no guarantee
which species you will see during a trip,
but Cory’s, Manx and Little shearwaters
Cape Verde and Bulwer’s Petrel seem to be more
SENEGAL common, with Madeiran and White-
faced storm-petrels being rarely seen.
of a continent and all native species If you have never heard the calls of
inhabiting the island today (plants and Cory’s Shearwaters returning to their
animals alike) once reached their new breeding colonies, try to do so. Sitting
home via long-distance dispersal – and out on our balcony late one evening in
simply by chance. Some 300 bird spe- Arco da Calheta and listening to those
cies have been recorded on the Madeira calls was like listening to Donald Duck
archipelago; slightly more than 40 of trying to imitate a kittiwake.
these breed on the island, and are While on the water you will see not
mostly species or subspecies endemic to only birds, but also different dolphin
Madeira and Macaronesia, respectively. species and, if you are really lucky, you
There are three endemics on Madeira: may get a sighting of a Mediterranean
Trocaz Pigeon, Madeira Firecrest and monk seal. There is a small breed-
Zino’s Petrel. ing population of about 30 of these
animals, believed to be the world’s
T
he archipelago of Madeira rarest pinniped as well as one of the
is an important breeding most endangered mammals, around
habitat for pelagic seabirds. the Desertas Islands. In addition to the
Many of these birds can be Desertas Islands tours, during June and
Zino’s Petrel is Europe’s rarest breed- seen from land: sea-watching is pos- July Ventura do Mar organises a limited
ing seabird and, except for this stuffed sible from everywhere along the coast, number of trips to the otherwise inac-
specimen in the museum in Funchal, it provided you remember two things – cessible Savage Islands. These trips are Above Sculpted by erosion, this volcanic rock
is difficult to get a sighting. At sea it is the light and the height. Depending on designed especially for dedicated bird- stands proud at the north coast near Porto
tricky to distinguish from Fea’s Petrel, the time of day and the weather, light watchers – with good sea legs. Moniz. Small pebble beaches are typical of
and you may only get close enough to conditions can change dramatically, The breeding site of Zino’s Petrel Madeira, while sandy beaches are found only
the breeding site to hear its calls rather making the identification of birds dif- remains well protected at Pico do on Porto Santo.
than see the bird itself. ficult. Also, make sure you are not too Arieiro, which, at 1 818 metres, is one
high above sea level. Recommended of the highest peaks on the island. This Right, top The colourful male Madeira
sea-watching areas include Ponta da petrel is Europe’s rarest breeding sea- Chaffinch. These confiding birds appear within
Cruz, the most southerly point of the bird – with a population of fewer than minutes of you preparing to have a picnic on
island, near Funchal, and Porto Moniz 80 breeding pairs and a total estimate levada walks.
on the northern tip. Species you will of 400 individuals, it is considered to
easily see include Yellow-legged Gull be near extinction. As it is not easy Right, middle Its tendency to favour rocky and
and Common Tern. to actually get to see this petrel, we scrubby terrain makes Berthelot’s Pipit an easy-
If you are interested in pelagic sea- recommend a visit to the Zoological to-find bird on the Ponta de São Lourenço, at the
birds, it is a good idea to take a boat Museum of Funchal, where they keep eastern tip of Madeira.
trip. A number of companies operate a stuffed specimen. This is admittedly
from the harbour of Funchal and a not very exciting, but it is probably the Right, bottom Cory’s Shearwaters are rela-
variety of tours are on offer. But unless only way to be guaranteed a sighting. tively commonly seen during pelagic trips. The
you are looking for a party atmosphere, The closest you can get to the living most exceptional feature of these birds is the calls
with lots of beer and loud music, choose birds is on a guided tour, during they give when returning to their colonies.
64 madeira africa – birds & birding december 2007/january 2008 madeira 65
off you go…
when to go
May to august is the best time to visit.
Madeira has a mild, subtropical climate
throughout the year, but in winter the north
receives its fair share of rain, making levada
walks a wet and slippery affair. also, tours
to the breeding site of Zino’s petrel, as well
as several of the boat trips, are only offered
during summer.
where to stay
There is plenty of accommodation on
Madeira, ranging from a five-star hotel in
Funchal to a quiet self-catering cottage on
a banana plantation. if you are looking for
peaceful places in the countryside, try
Madeira rural (www.madeirarural.com).
what to take
walks you should not suffer from ver- squares, and it frequents the nearby depending on your planned activities, you
will need clothes suitable for temperatures
tigo, and do remember to take a torch. village of Caniçal.
ranging from 7–30 °c and a light rainproof
The Madeira Firecrest, considered an The absence of very high mountains jacket, even in summer. For levada walks,
endemic subspecies until 2003, is easy and thus a dry climate also character- hiking boots and a torch for the tunnels are
to recognise by its song, but is some- ises the neighbouring island of Porto a good idea.
times difficult to see in the vegetation Santo. Most tourists head to Porto Santo
because of its active behaviour. You to enjoy its nine kilometres of sandy how to get around
might also need a bit of luck with the beaches, something that is not found on There are public buses on Madeira, and
Trocaz Pigeon. After being excessively Madeira. About 250 to 2 500 Hoopoes they are a good option for visiting the area
around Funchal. a rental car will give you
hunted in the 19th century, today’s also live exclusively on Porto Santo.
more freedom, but check tyres and brakes
which you are taken at night to the on the plateau and is best seen at dawn, population is estimated to number less These birds prefer a warm, dry habitat – driving on some of the steep, narrow
breeding site to hear the spooky calls in flight against the sky. than 10 000 individuals. Even though with open cultivated ground, short grass roads can be an unnerving experience.
of the birds arriving at their nests. The The other two endemics, the Madeira the birds are quite large (42–45 centi- or bare patches. some hotels and companies arrange levada
best time to visit is between April and Firecrest and Trocaz Pigeon, can be metres), they are somehow easy to over- Finally, there are a number of birds that tours and this can be a useful option as they
mid-August. Remember to take warm found in the laurel forest. In Portuguese, look when they are perched. Opinions occur throughout Madeira, especially will arrange to have you collected when
clothing as, despite temperatures on a Madeira means ‘wood’ and refers to the differ on where and when they are best along the populated coastal areas. These a walk finishes far from its starting point.
alternatively, you can call a taxi from almost
summer’s day at Funchal climbing to dense laurel forest that extended over to be seen, but in our experience you species include the Blackbird, Robin,
anywhere on the island.
30 °C, in the mountains it may get no most of the island before it was colo- just need to keep an eye open while Blackcap, Goldfinch, Canary and Barn
higher than 7 °C and be accompanied by nised in 1420. Laurel forest is a humid, hiking. Along the levadas you will also Owl. Kestrel and Sparrowhawk seem to organised tours
strong winds. subtropical evergreen woodland which spot Grey Wagtail and the Madeiran prefer more open areas, while Plain and To visit the breeding site of Zino’s petrel, to
is endemic to Macaronesia and a relict of Chaffinch. The Grey Wagtail is easily Pallid swifts are often seen along the
i
take a boat trip along the coast or to the de-
n the western central part of those that once enveloped vast tracts of recognised by its yellow breast and is cliff line. sertas or savage islands, contact Ventura do
Madeira lies the plateau Paúl da Europe. Today, the world’s most exten- often found close to freshwater sources, All birds mentioned thus far breed on Mar (www.venturadomar.com) or Madeira
Serra. Its sparse, low vegetation is sive acreage of this forest is found on and, like the Chaffinch, is confiding the Madeira archipelago. But despite, or wind birds (www.madeirabirds.com). if you
wish to visit the savage islands, plan this well
in sharp contrast to the laurel for- Madeira, where it covers only 20 per cent and habituated to humans. perhaps because of, its remote location,
in advance, for the number of trips run each
est, and a consequence of deforestation of the island and was declared a UNESCO The reason for the rain and thus the more than 250 species of migrants and
year is limited.
and pasture farming in years gone by. World Heritage Site in 1999. lush vegetation in the northern half of vagrants have been observed through
Reforestation has started on the Fanal, An easy and beautiful way to explore Madeira is the high mountains which the years. It pays to check harbours, jet- further reading
the northern part of the plateau between this habitat is to hike along the levadas. traverse the island from east to west, ties and rocks along the coast, especially oliveira, paulo & Menezes, dília. (2004)
the Ribeira da Janela and the north coast. These irrigation channels used to trans- blocking the clouds brought by the trade after a heavy storm, to see what may Birds of the Archipelago of Madeira.
Top The Levada do Caldeirão Verde in This area has a very special atmosphere port water from the wetter north of winds from the north. At the eastern tip have been blown in. Funchal. isbn 972-98431-5-5
the north-eastern part of Madeira provides because it supports the oldest til trees the island to fields and plantations in of Madeira, the situation is different. As We spent 16 days on Madeira and sziemer, peter. (2000) Madeira’s Natural
History in a Nutshell. barcelona.
spectacular views of the laurel forest. on the island. Fog from the sea rolls in the south. The first levada was built in there are no significant mountains on could have easily stayed far longer. If
isbn 972-9177-31-7
quickly, creating an atmosphere remin- 1439 in Funchal and by 1980 the system the Ponta de São Lourenço, the clouds your main focus is to add to your check-
Above The Trocaz Pigeon frequents laurel iscent of a scene from Tolkien’s Lord of covered some 5 000 kilometres. Walking just float by, leaving little rain on list and you do not intend to visit any internet
forest where, despite its size, it is often the Rings. Even though the Buzzard, the along the levadas will lead you into the peninsula. The resultant desert-like other islands, one week should be suf- madeira.seawatching.net/general.html
overlooked. largest bird of prey on the island, occurs spectacular valleys and provide fantastic landscape with scrubby vegetation pro- ficient. But we found that even though www.madeirabirds.com/madeira_birds
in a wide range of habitats, we had views. While doing this, you might have vides suitable breeding habitat for both Madeira is an exciting destination for whc.unesco.org/en/list/934
Opposite There is an almost enchanted, good sightings of a couple of them in to walk on a very narrow path or on the Berthelot’s Pipit and Rock Sparrow. The birdwatching, its fascinating natural www.madeiratourism.org
other-worldly atmosphere among the old this open landscape. Another bird worth levada rim, close to the edge, or through Spanish Sparrow, however, prefers man- history makes it worthwhile exploring www.madeira-tourist.com
til trees on the Fanal. mentioning is the Woodcock: it breeds tunnels at some stage, so to enjoy these made areas, such as gardens and urban much more of the island.
66 madeira africa – birds & birding december 2007/january 2008 madeira 67