Keeper of the coffee bean by mm6889


									                                                                                                                                                                                                Thursday,September 29, 2005      B1

                                                                               CHICAGO JOURNAL
                               ON THE                                   ■

    Better living through others
       We’re having trouble scraping together the rent. Would
    you mind treating us to the $30 dinner/theater package at
    The Parthenon Restaurant (314 S. Halsted St. 312/655-1234
    x28) on Sunday, Oct. 2, at 5 p.m.? We don’t like to ask, but
    the Hellenic Museum and Cultural Center is presenting a
    readers’ theater production of Halsted Street, which we
    feel could be inspiring for us. The piece was adapted for the
    stage by Maria Boundas Bakalis from the anthology Jess
    Ogden and Others, Halsted Street 1939, which was originally
    written by immigrants in the Halsted Street community
    under the auspices of Jane Addams Hull-House. That’s
    all we really know about it, so maybe you don’t think this
    would be a good investment in our future. But we feel that
    if we just got out a little bit more, we could go out and find a
    job that paid better than working for a newspaper.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                Photo by Josh Hawkins
                                          A scene from Deep Azure              Stephen Rogers feels right at home among the coffee barrels.

    Saved by DNA
      Or how about this? How about you just drop everything
    right now and let’s hotfoot it over to the closing reception
    of Taryn Simon: The Innocents on Thursday, September
    29, from 5 to 7 p.m. at Columbia’s Museum of Contemporary
    Photography, 600 S. Michigan Ave. (312/663-5554)? Our treat.
                                                                              Keeper of the coffee bean
                                                                                  B y K AT H A R I N E G R AYS O N
    Well, actually ... it’s free. But you’re glad we told you about                                                              For roastmaster Stephen                               Stephen Rogers, a roaster at Intelligentsia
                                                                                                                                                                                    for nearly two years, says that he can taste
                                                   it, because it’s                             Staff Writer
                                                   your last chance
                                                                                                                                Rogers, a caffeine buzz is all                      flavors that run from fruity to deep choco-
                                                                                           wice a day like clockwork, the

                                                                                                                                                                                    late. The brews are judged by cuppers on a
                                                   to witness these                        staff of Intelligentsia Coffee sit         in a days work                                wide range of criteria, ranging from after-
                                                   unsettling images                       around a large rotating tabletop,                                                        taste to “intensity.” (While black coffee can
                                                   of people who                           alternately tasting tall cups of     in its exactitude and its violation of table        rarely be described by most as sweet, one
                                                   were wrongfully                         new brews and experimental           manners.                                            seasoned taster last Thursday afternoon
                                                   convicted, impris-                      blends and then spinning the            The sniffing is still required, but the famil-   noted that a sample reminded him of a Jolly
                                                   oned, and later           table for the next round. Watching the “cup-       iar sound of the wine “spit” is replaced with       Rancher.)
                                                   released through          ping” ritual, it seems unlikely—at least to        a loud slurp from a spoon, a process designed          Rogers says a sophisticated palate is in
                                                   DNA evidence.             the pedestrian coffee drinker—that the tast-       to ensure the coffee is appropriately spread        part innate, but also can require some
                                                   And maybe there           ers are truly savoring the experience. Easy,       across the palate. Like wine connoisseurs,
                                                   will be refresh-
    The Innocents                                                            slow sips are stringently avoided in favor of      the seasoned cupper can taste more nuance
                                                                                                                                                                                        See INTELLIGENTSIA on Page B7
                                                   ments that we can         a process that is less lazy afternoon at the       than an average two- or three-cup-a-day
    stuff into our pockets.                                                  café and more akin to a wine tasting, both         coffee drinker.
      Saturday let’s go to Johnsonese Gallery, 2149 Armitage
    Ave. (773/252-8750), to check out the NOLA Aid benefit.
    Fourteen Chicagoland artists are donating partial proceeds
    to charities supporting Hurricane Katrina relief. The show
    includes paintings, drawings and photographs, some of
                                                                                                                 [      Book review           ]
    which relate directly to New Orleans, like Mark Lockwood’s
    photographs and Kathy Halper’s painting, “This Is What It
    Looks Like to Lose Everything.”
      We’re not in danger of losing everything, of course. We’re
                                                                                Crossing into action
    just in danger of losing a place to put it.                                     Growing up in the shadow of the Council Wars
                                                                                     B y H AY D N B U S H                 obsessiveness, narrowed even further
    Journey to the Congo                                                                    Staff Writer
                                                                                                                          by the relatively short, 444-day time

                                                                                                                          sequence, created a claustrophobic
      So: have you seen anything at Congo Square Theatre                          rossing California, the debut novel     mood that gave the youngest of his
    Company yet? We talked about this, and you promised you                       of native Chicago author Adam           characters, lifelong friends and lov-
    would go see a play there, even though their location at                      Langer, was thoroughly devoted          ers Jill Wasserstrom and Muley Scott
    Duncan YMCA Chernin Center for the Arts might not seem                        to a singular time and place, West      Mills, little room to grow or change.
    very promising on paper. But they’ve got a gorgeous theater,            Rogers Park in the midst of the Iran          Both characters, while given plenty of
    and they don’t scrimp on production values. Their new play,             Hostage Crisis. Langer’s eye for detail,      space to contemplate and explain their
    Deep Azure, though Oct. 9, uses hip-hop parlance to tell the            comic sensibility and empathy for his         thoughts, were frustratingly passive
    story of a young woman seeking justice after the murder of              adolescent protagonist created a flawed       the first time around.
    her boyfriend. You’ll be glad you went and feel smug that               but winning portrait of Chicago neigh-          From the opening pages of The
    you only paid $25 for a ticket. Call 312/587-2292.                      borhood life.
                                                —Kristin Gehring              But at times, Langer’s geographic                 See WASHINGTON on Page B5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          ■     Thursday,September 29, 2005                      B7

                                             an email expressing his love of                                            ous sections of the concrete floor
                                             coffee and espresso.                                                       where most of the roasting takes
                                               “I thought, I’d hate to see [my]                                         place. Beans in bags, displaying
      Continued from page B1                 experience go to waste,” Rogers                                            a wide range of stamps signify-
                                             says.                                                                      ing their origin and sometimes
practice. The staff at Intelligentsia          Rogers’ email was well-                                                  quality, are stacked neatly along
occasionally take time out to sam-           received, but he was told there                                            walls. Large and neatly labeled
ple chocolates, dried fruit and nuts,        wasn’t a job available. However,                                           tubs are brimming with beans
flavors from which can all be found          a week and a half later, a roaster                                         that are shuffled along the
in various coffees.                          broke a leg and could no longer                                            grounds as needed.
   “We’ll have chocolate tastings            handle the running around the                                                 On weekends, Rogers says
to tell the difference between               job demanded, and Rogers was                                               he likes to stop by the head-
cocoa and bakers’ chocolate so we            hired on as an official roaster                                            quarters to experiment with
can identify those flavors, just to          at the company’s headquarters.                                             Intelligentsia’s $10,000 espresso
educate your palate,” he explains.           Located in a spacious, high-ceil-                                          machine. He says he never grows
“Some people that taste coffee say           inged two-story building at 1850                                           tired of perfecting his espresso-
it just tastes like coffee. But they         W. Fulton, the roastery is set                                             making techniques.
don’t want to taste more than that.”         apart from its more traditional                                               Last week, while manning a
   But drinking coffee constantly            industrial neighbors by the pun-                                           blue-tinted metal roaster that
also never hurts, he adds. Early             gent aroma of brewing coffee.                                              runs from the warehouse’s bare
on in life, he developed an affin-             Rogers now splits his day                                                concrete floor to mid-ceiling,
ity for the bean, which led him              between coffee roasting—experi-                                            ending with a funnel-like top,
first to a job managing a coffee             menting with new blends—and                                                Rogers explained that the roast-
shop in Cincinnati for four years.           “cupping,” among other tasks.                                              ing process is often one of care-
Two years ago, he relocated to               Every weekday, he joins his col-                                           ful timing and temperature. The
Bucktown and sent Intelligentsia             leagues, who rotate among vari-                                            beans must be cooled quickly, he
                                                                                                                        says while monitoring a batch
                                                                                                                        that files quickly from the funnel
                                                                                                                        into a temperature-controlled

                  Champion barista                                                                                      cooling basin at the bottom of
                                                                                                                        the roaster. After heating and
                                                                                                                        cooling is complete, the heap of
       Even as Rogers is now                 Rogers says he gets a lot
                                                                                                                        beans is sucked through a large
     well-versed in the coffee               of ideas from his love for
                                                                                                                        plastic de-stoning tube stretching
     production and roasting                 cooking. The recipe for one
                                                                                                                        from the roaster through the ceil-
     process, he says he never               of his favorite signature
                                                                                                                        ing to the building’s second story.
     wanted to put his coffee                drinks calls for French-
                                                                                                                        This separates out any material
     store roots behind him.                 pressing harrar coffee,
                                                                                                                        heavier than a coffee bean.
       “I didn’t want to give up             which already has fruity
                                                                                                                           Intelligentsia has several roast-
     being a barista,” he says.              overtones, French pressing
                                                                                                                        ers, including a stainless steel-
       Rogers placed 12th in                 it again with smashed up
                                                                                                                        bodied modern machine, so much
     a recent national barista               blueberries “to accentuate
                                                                                                                        smaller than its older cousins that
     competition, where partici-             the taste,” and then topping
                                                                                                                        it can rest comfortably on just a                          Stephen Rogers pours coffee into bins before roasting.                                                                                              Photo by Josh Hawkins
     pants have 15 minutes to                it off with a vanilla-bean
                                                                                                                        table top. But Rogers says some-
     make four single espressos,             whipped cream, which he
                                                                                                                        times roasters are like cars—-you                          ries and thoroughly cleaned. The                              The company also works to                                      he says.
     four cappuccinos and four               makes himself.
                                                                                                                        want the older models because they                         unwashed coffee retains more of its                         send a message that “quality can                                    Overall, however, it is meticu-
     “signature” drinks. The                    Making espresso drinks
                                                                                                                        just don’t make them like they used                        fruity flavor, he says. His education                       be what pays,” and helps grow-                                   lously watching over the whole
     event is somewhat akin to               is also an art form,
                                                                                                                        to. Rogers often uses a 1950s model,                       is also always continuing, he says,                         ers improve upon techniques                                      process that Rogers says he
     Iron Chef, except competi-              Rogers says. Patrons of
                                                                                                                        which was bought from a man in                             remembering fondly his recent                               to make their coffee more in                                     appreciates most.
     tors can use whatever cof-              Intelligentsia’s retail stores,
                                                                                                                        Germany who had left it in a field.                        attendance at a roasting retreat.                           demand, he says. In Rwanda, for                                     “At every level, you have to take
     fee or espresso they like,              in Lakeview and the Loop,
                                                                                                                        The company had it shipped to                                 While Rogers enjoys the art of                           instance, Intelligentsia worked                                  a step back and think about how
     though alcohol and vanilla              are likely familiar with the
                                                                                                                        Chicago, but soon discovered it was                        roasting coffee and crafting espres-                        on encouraging farmers to wash                                   it should be done,” he says. “A
     extract (which contains                 company’s signature use of
                                                                                                                        thoroughly rusted out. It was then                         so drinks, he’s also well versed on                         coffee earlier in the process.                                   few days after the coffee is roast-
     alcohol) are not allowed.               “latte art”—-strategically
                                                                                                                        sent to Arkansas for sand-blasting.                        the interdependence of quality                                “Five years from now, Rwanda                                   ed, it may taste different than it
     And judges pay attention to             pouring steamed milk into
                                                                                                                        By the time it was installed, a year                       coffee on the farming practices of                          will be right up there with                                      did you when you first tried it.
     every detail, he adds.                  espresso-based drinks to cre-
                                                                                                                        had already passed.                                        Intelligentsia’s suppliers.                                 Kenya,” in the coffee rankings,                                  You have to taste into the future.”
       “They judge the music                 ate unique floral patterns.
                                                                                                                           Rogers’ enthusiasm for coffee is
     you choose, how you set up                 But Rogers says the
                                                                                                                        almost matched by his knowledge
     the table, the way you’re               designs serve a purpose

                                                                                                                                                                                                         MORTGAGE RATE DIRECTORY
                                                                                                                        of every part of the process, start-
     dressed, cleanliness,” he               beyond just flair.
                                                                                                                        ing with plucking a bean from a
     explains. “They have senso-                “The rosetta pattern
                                                                                                                        cherry to finding the perfect tech-
     ry judges that evaluate the             shows that the milk is                                                                                                                  LENDER                              FIXED RATE LOANS                                                            ADJUSTABLE RATES
                                                                                                                        nique for “stamping” grounds for
     experience as a whole.”                 blended right,” he says. “If
                                                                                                                        espresso. He knows every detailed                                                         AMOUNT RATE/YR                  POINTS/           A.P.R.         AMOUNT RATE/YR                      POINTS/           A.P.R.      HM EQUITY
       The signature drinks                  it’s too hot, it won’t pour
                                                                                                                        difference between unwashed cof-                                                                                          APP. FEE                                                             APP. FEE                         AVAIL.
     are where baristas get the              right.”
                                                                                                                        fee—beans that were dried while
     most creative freedom.                         —Katharine Grayson                                                                                                               AFFORDABLE                    5%      5.375%/15 yr. fixed 0%/$0                5.49%           10% 5.250%/3 yr. BALLOON                 0%/$0           5.37%
                                                                                                                        still in the fruit—and washed
                                                                                                                        coffee, which is plucked from cher-                          MORTGAGE *            C       5%      5.625%/20 yr. fixed 0%/$0                5.75%           10%         5.375%/5 yr. ARM             0%/$0           5.49%
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                                                                                                                                                                                     950 N. Milwaukee Ave., #204, Glenview IL 60025                                               Fast Approvals, 125% Equity Loans, Apt. Buildings & Commercial
program for parents and children,            the Fifties” with Neal Samors and                                              10/10 kicks off at 12:30 p.m. from                       COMMUNITY BANK OF            95%          5.75%/30 yr.         0%/$395        5.776%           95%             5.5%/5/1               0%/$395          6.208%
Saturday 10/1 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.         Mike Williams on 10/5. “History of                                             Columbus and Balbo drives and pro-                       OAK PARK-RIVER FOREST 95%                 5.625%/20 yr.        0%/$395        5.659%           95%           5.625%/7/1               0%/$395           6.140%
Children view an exhibit of Robert           Chicago Architecture: Daring Design                                            ceeds north to Monroe St. Festivities
                                                                                                                                                                                     (708-660-1000)               95%          5.375%/15 yr.        0%/$395        5.418%           95%           5.75%/10/1               0%/$395           6.077%
Klunk etchings of historic interiors,        on the Prairie,” runs Tuesdays 10/11,                                          begin at 9 a.m. with Mass at the
take a brief tour of the interiors           10/18, 11/1 and 11/8 from 2 to 4 p.m.                                                                                                   1001 Lake St., Oak Park IL 60301                                                    ASK US ABOUT OUR INTEREST-ONLY LOANS!
                                                                                                                            Shrine of Our Lady of Pompeii, 1227
featured, then hand color their own          ($120/$100 students/$80 members).                                              W. Lexington St., followed by an out-                                                                                                                                                FIXED JUMBOS
copies of the exhibited artwork. $5/         Call 312/922-3432.                                                             door procession at Arrigo Park. Call                     1ST ADVANTAGE                95%          5.625%/30 yr.         0%/$0         5.655%           90%           5.750%/30 yr.              0%/$0          5.780%
adults free. Call 312/326-1480.                                                                                             708/450-9050.
                                                                                                                                                                                     MORTGAGE                     95%         5.375%/5/1 ARM         0%/$0         5.405%           90%           5.375%/15 yr.              0%/$0          5.405%
Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E.                                Community                                                     Call for volunteers for the 9th                          (708-443-5200)               95%          5.250%/15 yr.         0%/$0         5.280%           90%        5.000%/3/1 JUMBO              0%/$0          5.030%
Washington St., offers “Chicago                                                                                             Annual South Loop Neighbors Loft                         7 N. Longcommon Rd., Riverside IL 6046
Critics on Chicago Art,” six short           First Ward Hurricane Relief                                                    Walk on Sunday 10/23. Help organize
slide talks on Chicago-area artists          Concert, Sunday 10/2 at 8:30 p.m.                                              the walk, volunteer on Loft Walk Day,                    MORTGAGE LENDING 95%                      5.625%/30 yr.         0%/$0         5.683%           95%       5.5%/7 yr. BALLOON             0%/$0          5.579%

by six members of the Chicago Art            at Subterranean, 2011 W. North                                                 or volunteer your loft. E-mail info                      GROUP, INC.                  95% 6.00%/30 yr. JUMBO 0%/$0                     6.043%           95%       5.5%/5/1 JUMBO I/0             0%/$0          5.579%
Critics Association, Saturday 10/1 from      Ave., featuring Paul Kogut, Rachel                                             West Loop Night, a social gathering                      (847-299-3811)               95% 5.25%/15 yr. Conv. 0%/$0                     5.351%           95%          5.125%/3/1 ARM              0%/$0          5.269%
3 to 5 p.m.; “Book Your Band and             Charson, Fivestar Boogie Dancers,                                              the third Thursday of every month                        2700 S. River Rd., Ste 1-ll, Des Plaines IL 60018 Home Equity IS Available                               Please visit our website at
Don’t Go Crazy!” a Musicians at Work         CleanRay, Mari-Zen and Simmering.                                              from 7 to 9 p.m. at a different West                         RATES & POINTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. CONTACT YOUR MORTGAGE LENDER FOR SPECIFIC DETAILS & CURRENT RATE
forum, Monday 10/3 at 6 p.m., with           $10 admission. All proceeds go to                                              Loop venue. Call the West Loop                           INFO.ANNUAL PERCENTAGE RATE (APR) - The interest rate which reflects the cost of a loan as an annual rate. It takes into account the stated interest rate, plus points and
panelists from Chicago music clubs; a        the Salvation Army. 53rd Annual                                                Community Organization at 312/666-                            other credit costs. APR is usually a good means to compare the cost of loans with similar maturities. 15 and 30 year mortgages may be sold in the secondary market.
Friends of Downtown presentation on          Columbus Day Parade on Monday                                                  1991 or visit
                                                                                                                                                                                        Jumbo Rates Available Nonconvertible       Not Available P Purchase R Refinance N Non-conforming * Apartment Building ** Biweekly Available        Requires 1% origination
“MetraMarket”, a West Loop develop-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Convertable       FHA     4 Day Mort. Approval Incls. Appraisal     Balloon Rate Available # First Time Home Buyers Only
ment project, Thursday 10/6 at 12:15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Home Equity Loans C Cash-outs Ø No Application Fee
p.m.; “Some Observations Concerning
Four Writers of Aphorisms: La                             The Family Fun Musical Adventure!                                                                                          Mortgage rates are accurate as of Monday afternoon. Due to the fluctuation of mortgage rates, the rates may vary before publication. Contact your mortgage lender for complete

Rochefouchauld, Pascal, Guicciardini,                                                                                                                                                                                                       details. Mortgage rates vary in APR and other qualifying factors.

and Neitzsche,” Friday 10/7 at 12:15                                                                                                                                                        TO ADVERTISE YOUR MORTGAGE RATES CALL BARBARA KIZELEVICUS 312/243-2696
p.m. in the University of Chicago First
Friday lecture series; “Cook County

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Chef Luciano
Forest Preserve District,” Thursday
10/13 at 12:15 p.m. in the Creative Living
in the City series; and a preview by                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Spi
Dance Africa Chicago of its upcoming                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     c
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Lam y
                                                                                                                                                                                           O.B                                                                                                                                           b
season, Thursday 10/13 at 6 p.m. in the                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Of South Loop
About Dance series. Call 312/744-6630.
World Kitchen at Gallery 37 Center
for the Arts, 66 E. Randolph St.,
                                                                                                                                                                                                               “Chicago’s Best Kept Secret is Out!”
offers community cooking classes
including “International Nosh,”
Saturday 10/1 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.;                                                                                                                                                                             6 Pieces of Gourmet
and “Cutting Edge Knife Skills,”
Thursday 10/6 from 6 to 8:30 p.m.                                                                                                                                                                                Chicken and Rice Pilaf
$30/class. Call 312/742-8497.
Gallery 400 at the University of
Illinois at Chicago, 1240 W. Harrison
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     For Only $4.49
St., presents the 2005 Voices
Lecture Series, Tuesdays at 5 p.m.,                                                                                                                                                                                                  Money Back Guarantee
featuring painter Pamela Fraser on                                                                                                                                                                                             But Don’t Bring Me Back The BONES!
10/4. Call 312/996-6114.
The Henry George School, 417 S.                                                                                                                                                                  Pasta & Chicken, Shrimp Alfredo, Cajun Shrimp, Roasted Chicken,
Dearborn St. #510, offers a course in
“Progress and Poverty,” Fridays 10/7                                                                                                                                                                    Fresh Salmon,Tilapia Fish, Catfish, Chilean Sea Bass,
to 11/4 from 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. $10                                                                                                                                                                     Fresh Stirfried vegetables, Fresh Spinach, Swiss Chard,
registration fee. Call 312/362-9302.                                                                                                                                                                       World’s Best Ceasar Salad And so much More!
Chicago Architecture Foundation,
224 S. Michigan Ave., presents                                                                                                                                                                                                       43 E. Cermak Rd (22nd Street)
“Agony and Ecstasy: Challenges                                                                                                                                                                                                            between Michigan and Wabash Avenue.
of Sustainable Design,” with                                        Book, Music and Lyrics by Leslie Bricusse                                                                                                                                           312-326-0062
Australian-based designer Tony                  Based upon The Doctor Dolittle Stories by Hugh Lofting and The Twentieth Century Fox Film                                                                                                 Check us out on
Frye, Friday 10/7 at 6:30 p.m. (free);
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Cash Only • Monday thru Saturday 10 AM to 7 PM
and a lecture by London-based
architect Will Alsop, Monday 10/10              OCTOBER 4–16 • (312)902-1400
at 6 p.m. ($25/$15 members). Free                                                                                                                                                                                    We have been Raging and Cajuning for 25 years
                                                                                CARSON PIRIE SCOTT, TOWER RECORDS AND HOT
                                                                                                                       Groups: (312) 977-1710
Wednesday lunchtime lectures from                                                                                                                                                                                               And still going strong
                                                                                TIX AND SELECT COCONUTS AND FYE STORES

12:15 to 1 p.m., include “Chicago in

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