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Thursday,September 29, 2005 B1
METROPOLIS
CHICAGO JOURNAL
■
ON THE ■
Scene
Better living through others
We’re having trouble scraping together the rent. Would
you mind treating us to the $30 dinner/theater package at
The Parthenon Restaurant (314 S. Halsted St. 312/655-1234
x28) on Sunday, Oct. 2, at 5 p.m.? We don’t like to ask, but
the Hellenic Museum and Cultural Center is presenting a
readers’ theater production of Halsted Street, which we
feel could be inspiring for us. The piece was adapted for the
stage by Maria Boundas Bakalis from the anthology Jess
Ogden and Others, Halsted Street 1939, which was originally
written by immigrants in the Halsted Street community
under the auspices of Jane Addams Hull-House. That’s
all we really know about it, so maybe you don’t think this
would be a good investment in our future. But we feel that
if we just got out a little bit more, we could go out and find a
job that paid better than working for a newspaper.
Photo by Josh Hawkins
A scene from Deep Azure Stephen Rogers feels right at home among the coffee barrels.
Saved by DNA
Or how about this? How about you just drop everything
right now and let’s hotfoot it over to the closing reception
of Taryn Simon: The Innocents on Thursday, September
29, from 5 to 7 p.m. at Columbia’s Museum of Contemporary
Photography, 600 S. Michigan Ave. (312/663-5554)? Our treat.
Keeper of the coffee bean
B y K AT H A R I N E G R AYS O N
Well, actually ... it’s free. But you’re glad we told you about For roastmaster Stephen Stephen Rogers, a roaster at Intelligentsia
for nearly two years, says that he can taste
it, because it’s Staff Writer
your last chance
Rogers, a caffeine buzz is all flavors that run from fruity to deep choco-
wice a day like clockwork, the
T
late. The brews are judged by cuppers on a
to witness these staff of Intelligentsia Coffee sit in a days work wide range of criteria, ranging from after-
unsettling images around a large rotating tabletop, taste to “intensity.” (While black coffee can
of people who alternately tasting tall cups of in its exactitude and its violation of table rarely be described by most as sweet, one
were wrongfully new brews and experimental manners. seasoned taster last Thursday afternoon
convicted, impris- blends and then spinning the The sniffing is still required, but the famil- noted that a sample reminded him of a Jolly
oned, and later table for the next round. Watching the “cup- iar sound of the wine “spit” is replaced with Rancher.)
released through ping” ritual, it seems unlikely—at least to a loud slurp from a spoon, a process designed Rogers says a sophisticated palate is in
DNA evidence. the pedestrian coffee drinker—that the tast- to ensure the coffee is appropriately spread part innate, but also can require some
And maybe there ers are truly savoring the experience. Easy, across the palate. Like wine connoisseurs,
will be refresh-
The Innocents slow sips are stringently avoided in favor of the seasoned cupper can taste more nuance
See INTELLIGENTSIA on Page B7
ments that we can a process that is less lazy afternoon at the than an average two- or three-cup-a-day
stuff into our pockets. café and more akin to a wine tasting, both coffee drinker.
Saturday let’s go to Johnsonese Gallery, 2149 Armitage
Ave. (773/252-8750), to check out the NOLA Aid benefit.
Fourteen Chicagoland artists are donating partial proceeds
to charities supporting Hurricane Katrina relief. The show
includes paintings, drawings and photographs, some of
[ Book review ]
which relate directly to New Orleans, like Mark Lockwood’s
photographs and Kathy Halper’s painting, “This Is What It
Looks Like to Lose Everything.”
We’re not in danger of losing everything, of course. We’re
Crossing into action
just in danger of losing a place to put it. Growing up in the shadow of the Council Wars
B y H AY D N B U S H obsessiveness, narrowed even further
Journey to the Congo Staff Writer
by the relatively short, 444-day time
C
sequence, created a claustrophobic
So: have you seen anything at Congo Square Theatre rossing California, the debut novel mood that gave the youngest of his
Company yet? We talked about this, and you promised you of native Chicago author Adam characters, lifelong friends and lov-
would go see a play there, even though their location at Langer, was thoroughly devoted ers Jill Wasserstrom and Muley Scott
Duncan YMCA Chernin Center for the Arts might not seem to a singular time and place, West Mills, little room to grow or change.
very promising on paper. But they’ve got a gorgeous theater, Rogers Park in the midst of the Iran Both characters, while given plenty of
and they don’t scrimp on production values. Their new play, Hostage Crisis. Langer’s eye for detail, space to contemplate and explain their
Deep Azure, though Oct. 9, uses hip-hop parlance to tell the comic sensibility and empathy for his thoughts, were frustratingly passive
story of a young woman seeking justice after the murder of adolescent protagonist created a flawed the first time around.
her boyfriend. You’ll be glad you went and feel smug that but winning portrait of Chicago neigh- From the opening pages of The
you only paid $25 for a ticket. Call 312/587-2292. borhood life.
—Kristin Gehring But at times, Langer’s geographic See WASHINGTON on Page B5
www.ChicagoJournal.com ■ Thursday,September 29, 2005 B7
INTELLIGENTSIA
an email expressing his love of ous sections of the concrete floor
coffee and espresso. where most of the roasting takes
“I thought, I’d hate to see [my] place. Beans in bags, displaying
Continued from page B1 experience go to waste,” Rogers a wide range of stamps signify-
says. ing their origin and sometimes
practice. The staff at Intelligentsia Rogers’ email was well- quality, are stacked neatly along
occasionally take time out to sam- received, but he was told there walls. Large and neatly labeled
ple chocolates, dried fruit and nuts, wasn’t a job available. However, tubs are brimming with beans
flavors from which can all be found a week and a half later, a roaster that are shuffled along the
in various coffees. broke a leg and could no longer grounds as needed.
“We’ll have chocolate tastings handle the running around the On weekends, Rogers says
to tell the difference between job demanded, and Rogers was he likes to stop by the head-
cocoa and bakers’ chocolate so we hired on as an official roaster quarters to experiment with
can identify those flavors, just to at the company’s headquarters. Intelligentsia’s $10,000 espresso
educate your palate,” he explains. Located in a spacious, high-ceil- machine. He says he never grows
“Some people that taste coffee say inged two-story building at 1850 tired of perfecting his espresso-
it just tastes like coffee. But they W. Fulton, the roastery is set making techniques.
don’t want to taste more than that.” apart from its more traditional Last week, while manning a
But drinking coffee constantly industrial neighbors by the pun- blue-tinted metal roaster that
also never hurts, he adds. Early gent aroma of brewing coffee. runs from the warehouse’s bare
on in life, he developed an affin- Rogers now splits his day concrete floor to mid-ceiling,
ity for the bean, which led him between coffee roasting—experi- ending with a funnel-like top,
first to a job managing a coffee menting with new blends—and Rogers explained that the roast-
shop in Cincinnati for four years. “cupping,” among other tasks. ing process is often one of care-
Two years ago, he relocated to Every weekday, he joins his col- ful timing and temperature. The
Bucktown and sent Intelligentsia leagues, who rotate among vari- beans must be cooled quickly, he
says while monitoring a batch
that files quickly from the funnel
into a temperature-controlled
Champion barista cooling basin at the bottom of
the roaster. After heating and
cooling is complete, the heap of
Even as Rogers is now Rogers says he gets a lot
beans is sucked through a large
well-versed in the coffee of ideas from his love for
plastic de-stoning tube stretching
production and roasting cooking. The recipe for one
from the roaster through the ceil-
process, he says he never of his favorite signature
ing to the building’s second story.
wanted to put his coffee drinks calls for French-
This separates out any material
store roots behind him. pressing harrar coffee,
heavier than a coffee bean.
“I didn’t want to give up which already has fruity
Intelligentsia has several roast-
being a barista,” he says. overtones, French pressing
ers, including a stainless steel-
Rogers placed 12th in it again with smashed up
bodied modern machine, so much
a recent national barista blueberries “to accentuate
smaller than its older cousins that
competition, where partici- the taste,” and then topping
it can rest comfortably on just a Stephen Rogers pours coffee into bins before roasting. Photo by Josh Hawkins
pants have 15 minutes to it off with a vanilla-bean
table top. But Rogers says some-
make four single espressos, whipped cream, which he
times roasters are like cars—-you ries and thoroughly cleaned. The The company also works to he says.
four cappuccinos and four makes himself.
want the older models because they unwashed coffee retains more of its send a message that “quality can Overall, however, it is meticu-
“signature” drinks. The Making espresso drinks
just don’t make them like they used fruity flavor, he says. His education be what pays,” and helps grow- lously watching over the whole
event is somewhat akin to is also an art form,
to. Rogers often uses a 1950s model, is also always continuing, he says, ers improve upon techniques process that Rogers says he
Iron Chef, except competi- Rogers says. Patrons of
which was bought from a man in remembering fondly his recent to make their coffee more in appreciates most.
tors can use whatever cof- Intelligentsia’s retail stores,
Germany who had left it in a field. attendance at a roasting retreat. demand, he says. In Rwanda, for “At every level, you have to take
fee or espresso they like, in Lakeview and the Loop,
The company had it shipped to While Rogers enjoys the art of instance, Intelligentsia worked a step back and think about how
though alcohol and vanilla are likely familiar with the
Chicago, but soon discovered it was roasting coffee and crafting espres- on encouraging farmers to wash it should be done,” he says. “A
extract (which contains company’s signature use of
thoroughly rusted out. It was then so drinks, he’s also well versed on coffee earlier in the process. few days after the coffee is roast-
alcohol) are not allowed. “latte art”—-strategically
sent to Arkansas for sand-blasting. the interdependence of quality “Five years from now, Rwanda ed, it may taste different than it
And judges pay attention to pouring steamed milk into
By the time it was installed, a year coffee on the farming practices of will be right up there with did you when you first tried it.
every detail, he adds. espresso-based drinks to cre-
had already passed. Intelligentsia’s suppliers. Kenya,” in the coffee rankings, You have to taste into the future.”
“They judge the music ate unique floral patterns.
Rogers’ enthusiasm for coffee is
you choose, how you set up But Rogers says the
almost matched by his knowledge
the table, the way you’re designs serve a purpose
MORTGAGE RATE DIRECTORY
of every part of the process, start-
dressed, cleanliness,” he beyond just flair.
ing with plucking a bean from a
explains. “They have senso- “The rosetta pattern
cherry to finding the perfect tech-
ry judges that evaluate the shows that the milk is LENDER FIXED RATE LOANS ADJUSTABLE RATES
nique for “stamping” grounds for
experience as a whole.” blended right,” he says. “If
espresso. He knows every detailed AMOUNT RATE/YR POINTS/ A.P.R. AMOUNT RATE/YR POINTS/ A.P.R. HM EQUITY
The signature drinks it’s too hot, it won’t pour
difference between unwashed cof- APP. FEE APP. FEE AVAIL.
are where baristas get the right.”
fee—beans that were dried while
most creative freedom. —Katharine Grayson AFFORDABLE 5% 5.375%/15 yr. fixed 0%/$0 5.49% 10% 5.250%/3 yr. BALLOON 0%/$0 5.37%
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Saturday 10/1 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mike Williams on 10/5. “History of Columbus and Balbo drives and pro- OAK PARK-RIVER FOREST 95% 5.625%/20 yr. 0%/$395 5.659% 95% 5.625%/7/1 0%/$395 6.140%
Children view an exhibit of Robert Chicago Architecture: Daring Design ceeds north to Monroe St. Festivities
(708-660-1000) 95% 5.375%/15 yr. 0%/$395 5.418% 95% 5.75%/10/1 0%/$395 6.077%
Klunk etchings of historic interiors, on the Prairie,” runs Tuesdays 10/11, begin at 9 a.m. with Mass at the
take a brief tour of the interiors 10/18, 11/1 and 11/8 from 2 to 4 p.m. 1001 Lake St., Oak Park IL 60301 www.cboprf.com ASK US ABOUT OUR INTEREST-ONLY LOANS!
Shrine of Our Lady of Pompeii, 1227
featured, then hand color their own ($120/$100 students/$80 members). W. Lexington St., followed by an out- FIXED JUMBOS
copies of the exhibited artwork. $5/ Call 312/922-3432. door procession at Arrigo Park. Call 1ST ADVANTAGE 95% 5.625%/30 yr. 0%/$0 5.655% 90% 5.750%/30 yr. 0%/$0 5.780%
adults free. Call 312/326-1480. 708/450-9050.
MORTGAGE 95% 5.375%/5/1 ARM 0%/$0 5.405% 90% 5.375%/15 yr. 0%/$0 5.405%
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Washington St., offers “Chicago Annual South Loop Neighbors Loft 7 N. Longcommon Rd., Riverside IL 6046
Critics on Chicago Art,” six short First Ward Hurricane Relief Walk on Sunday 10/23. Help organize
slide talks on Chicago-area artists Concert, Sunday 10/2 at 8:30 p.m. the walk, volunteer on Loft Walk Day, MORTGAGE LENDING 95% 5.625%/30 yr. 0%/$0 5.683% 95% 5.5%/7 yr. BALLOON 0%/$0 5.579%
by six members of the Chicago Art at Subterranean, 2011 W. North or volunteer your loft. E-mail info GROUP, INC. 95% 6.00%/30 yr. JUMBO 0%/$0 6.043% 95% 5.5%/5/1 JUMBO I/0 0%/$0 5.579%
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3 to 5 p.m.; “Book Your Band and Charson, Fivestar Boogie Dancers, the third Thursday of every month 2700 S. River Rd., Ste 1-ll, Des Plaines IL 60018 Home Equity IS Available Please visit our website at www.MyMLG.com
Don’t Go Crazy!” a Musicians at Work CleanRay, Mari-Zen and Simmering. from 7 to 9 p.m. at a different West RATES & POINTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. CONTACT YOUR MORTGAGE LENDER FOR SPECIFIC DETAILS & CURRENT RATE
forum, Monday 10/3 at 6 p.m., with $10 admission. All proceeds go to Loop venue. Call the West Loop INFO.ANNUAL PERCENTAGE RATE (APR) - The interest rate which reflects the cost of a loan as an annual rate. It takes into account the stated interest rate, plus points and
panelists from Chicago music clubs; a the Salvation Army. 53rd Annual Community Organization at 312/666- other credit costs. APR is usually a good means to compare the cost of loans with similar maturities. 15 and 30 year mortgages may be sold in the secondary market.
Friends of Downtown presentation on Columbus Day Parade on Monday 1991 or visit www.westloop.org.
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Convertable FHA 4 Day Mort. Approval Incls. Appraisal Balloon Rate Available # First Time Home Buyers Only
ment project, Thursday 10/6 at 12:15
Home Equity Loans C Cash-outs Ø No Application Fee
p.m.; “Some Observations Concerning
Four Writers of Aphorisms: La The Family Fun Musical Adventure! Mortgage rates are accurate as of Monday afternoon. Due to the fluctuation of mortgage rates, the rates may vary before publication. Contact your mortgage lender for complete
Rochefouchauld, Pascal, Guicciardini, details. Mortgage rates vary in APR and other qualifying factors.
and Neitzsche,” Friday 10/7 at 12:15 TO ADVERTISE YOUR MORTGAGE RATES CALL BARBARA KIZELEVICUS 312/243-2696
p.m. in the University of Chicago First
Friday lecture series; “Cook County
Chef Luciano
Forest Preserve District,” Thursday
10/13 at 12:15 p.m. in the Creative Living
.
B.Y
in the City series; and a preview by Spi
Dance Africa Chicago of its upcoming c
Lam y
O.B b
season, Thursday 10/13 at 6 p.m. in the Of South Loop
About Dance series. Call 312/744-6630.
World Kitchen at Gallery 37 Center
for the Arts, 66 E. Randolph St.,
“Chicago’s Best Kept Secret is Out!”
offers community cooking classes
including “International Nosh,”
Saturday 10/1 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; 6 Pieces of Gourmet
and “Cutting Edge Knife Skills,”
Thursday 10/6 from 6 to 8:30 p.m. Chicken and Rice Pilaf
$30/class. Call 312/742-8497.
Gallery 400 at the University of
Illinois at Chicago, 1240 W. Harrison
For Only $4.49
St., presents the 2005 Voices
Lecture Series, Tuesdays at 5 p.m., Money Back Guarantee
featuring painter Pamela Fraser on But Don’t Bring Me Back The BONES!
10/4. Call 312/996-6114.
The Henry George School, 417 S. Pasta & Chicken, Shrimp Alfredo, Cajun Shrimp, Roasted Chicken,
Dearborn St. #510, offers a course in
“Progress and Poverty,” Fridays 10/7 Fresh Salmon,Tilapia Fish, Catfish, Chilean Sea Bass,
to 11/4 from 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. $10 Fresh Stirfried vegetables, Fresh Spinach, Swiss Chard,
registration fee. Call 312/362-9302. World’s Best Ceasar Salad And so much More!
Chicago Architecture Foundation,
224 S. Michigan Ave., presents 43 E. Cermak Rd (22nd Street)
“Agony and Ecstasy: Challenges between Michigan and Wabash Avenue.
of Sustainable Design,” with Book, Music and Lyrics by Leslie Bricusse 312-326-0062
Australian-based designer Tony Based upon The Doctor Dolittle Stories by Hugh Lofting and The Twentieth Century Fox Film Check us out on Metromix.com
Frye, Friday 10/7 at 6:30 p.m. (free);
Cash Only • Monday thru Saturday 10 AM to 7 PM
and a lecture by London-based
architect Will Alsop, Monday 10/10 OCTOBER 4–16 • (312)902-1400
at 6 p.m. ($25/$15 members). Free We have been Raging and Cajuning for 25 years
CARSON PIRIE SCOTT, TOWER RECORDS AND HOT
www.BroadwayInChicago.com Groups: (312) 977-1710
Wednesday lunchtime lectures from And still going strong
TIX AND SELECT COCONUTS AND FYE STORES
12:15 to 1 p.m., include “Chicago in www.doctordolittlethemusical.com
