Vermont Cheesemakers Collaborate on Grand Scale

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					          Fall 2008 • Vol. 8, Issue 2




              Vermont Cheesemakers
             Collaborate on Grand Scale
                  Jasper Hill opens “Cellars” for aging cheese


A
“      ging” may not have the best connotation in this    in 2003. With grounded expertise in cheesemaking,
       society. Unless, of course, you are referring to   substantial capitalization and a savvy business plan, the
       cheese. Small batch, handmade cheese – aged to     Kehler brothers brought this unknown label to the fore
its full potential - is among todays most highly sought   of the artisan cheese movement in just a few years —
after food item. And in Vermont, a lot of that cheese     winning prizes, fans and customers across the country
— roughly 150,000 pounds of it — is now aging to          along the way. Today, Jasper Hill Farm produces about
perfection at The Cellars at Jasper Hill in Greensboro.   70,000 pounds of six cheese varieties: Bayley Hazen Blue,
   Jasper Hill Farm, the brain child of brothers Mateo    Constant Bliss, Aspenhurst, Winnimere, Bartlett Blue and
and Andy Kehler, started making its own line of cheeses                                          continued on page 2




                                                                                                                       Photos by Susan Spaulding




Above: Selected cheeses in one vault at The Cellars at Jasper Hill. From
front to rear, top to bottom: Vermont Water Buffalo Romano, Crawford
Family Farm Vermont Ayr, Twig Farm Goat Tomme, Grafton Village
Cheese Traditional Clothbound Cheddar. Right: Affineurs Rebecca Kuhnel
and Roberta Pitkin are turning Lazy Lady’s Mixed Emotions — part of a
daily routine. Find these and other Vermont cheeses on our web site.



                                        www.vtcheese.com
                                       Letter from the President

   W
             elcome to the 2008 fall/                                    our cheeses to customers and to listen to
             winter newsletter of the                                    complaints (hopefully, very few). We owe a
             Vermont Cheese Council. The                                 great deal of gratitude to them. In upcoming
   council, and all 39 of our members,                                   newsletters we hope to cover one or two
   have been hard at work this summer                                    stories per issue about these fine people.
   and fall. We’ve begun tackling the                                       We wish at this time to say thanks to
   issues concerning VCC-sponsored                                       Jane Sakovitz Dale, who has heroically
   events and how best to get the wide                                   puts these newsletters together for us every
   variety of Vermont cheeses in front                                   year. Getting all this info together from
   of you, our customers and fans. We                                    the council, in a timely fashion takes the
   created an events committee, which                                    patience of a saint. She dutifully steps up
   will define, create and execute some                                  to the plate time and time again. Thanks
   very interesting forays into the world                                also to Tim Newcomb who has designed our
   of cheese, education and fine dining                                  newsletter for many years. Thanks, Jane
   experiences for 2009. With the help of Elisa Clancy,      and Tim.
   our web guru, we are trying to keep our web site fresh       Last but not least, you will see the names of cheese-
   and up to date — visit it often at www.vtcheese.com.      makers who have once again won high honors in various
   As Coordinator, Ellen Ogden has been playing a huge       cheese competitions. Vermont is very lucky to have
   role in keeping the council active and involved. She      such a large group of dedicated and committed cheese-
   has represented us well.                                  makers. We put in long hours and battle many sleepless
      As for the newsletter, we’ve added a new feature       nights mainly for the sole purpose of putting a smile on
   which we hope you will enjoy reading. The council         someone’s face and hearing the word “YUMMM”. This is
   decided last month that it was high time to recognize     why we do it. So enjoy!! Thank you from all of us in the
   those who play a vital role in the world of marketing     Vermont Cheese Council.
   our cheese. The folks in the distributing world, retail                                  — Laini Fondiller, President
   world and restaurants are really the ones on the front                                               Lazy Lady Farm
   line. We depend on them to represent us, explain


Cheesemakers Collaborate                 joined forces with Jasper Hill, asking    flavor potential,” says Andy Kehler.
continued from page 1                    them to age 25 wheels per month           Today, Jasper Hill purchases 80% of
                                         of Cabot’s Clothbound Cheddar for         the cheeses outright, providing steady
Moses Sleeper.                           between 10 and 14 months at their         and predictable income for small
   Not willing to bank the success       Greensboro site. That collaboration       cheesemaking operations throughout
of their entire operation on making      netted the Best of Show prize at          the state, while helping to ensure
their own cheeses, the Kehlers           the 2006 American Cheese Society          that a high, quality product – that
looked for ways to offer added value     Competition in Portland, Oregon.          reflects both farms – reaches the
to the Vermont cheese industry.          Out of that initial success came the      market in optimal condition. They
Initially, they thought to engage        impetus for creating The Cellars          also provide marketing and distri-
other dairies within the area to go      at Jasper Hill — a state-of-the-art,      bution services for other Vermont
into the cheesemaking business           22,000 square foot, $3.2 million          cheeses not aged at the Cellars thus
along with them. But, this proved        dollar facility where cheeses from a      allowing small producers across the
to be an unworkable strategy for         dozen Vermont cheesemakers are            state to access markets previously
entrenched dairy farms that were         pampered as they ripen and age — a        closed to them. Currently shipping
unwilling or unable to rethink their     process known as affinage. These          approximately 12,000 pounds of
product as something other than          cheeses retain the labels and unique      cheese a month, the Cellars at Jasper
fluid milk. Then in late 2004 came       character of their farm of origin but     Hill hopes to eventually provide
an opportunity to collaborate with       benefit from the affinage and, in         the wide and growing marketplace
another cheesemaker that changed         some cases, distribution services that    with up to two million pounds of
everything. Knowing how labor            Jasper Hill can offer. “Our goal is to    Vermont-made artisan cheese a year;
intensive and costly it is to age        provide the best possible conditions      the approximate production from
cheese, Cabot Creamery Cooperative       to allow each cheese to reach its full    30 farms the size of Jasper Hill.


                                                             2
                    Vermont Cheeses Currently at
                               “The Cellars at Jasper Hill”
                                             Photos by Susan Spaulding.


Cabot Creamery
                                           “The Cabot and Jasper Hill partnership has been very rewarding
Cooperative                                in so many ways. It is also emblematic of the Vermont reality that
Cabot                                      collaboration among cheesemakers isn’t the exception, but the rule.
  Clothbound                               Vermont cheesemakers’ have an unparalleled recipe for success: take
  Cheddar is                               a healthy dose of camaraderie, add in opportunistic cooperation,
  a traditional                            and enjoy the resulting high-quality, innovative cheeses. The newly
  English-style                            unveiled Cellars at Jasper Hill now takes this collective-gains-through-
  cheddar                                  collaboration approach to an even higher level. Vermont’s brand and
  with a sweet,                            the prospects for increased sales of Vermont specialty and artisan
  caramel-like                             cheese should both benefit handsomely.”
  crystalline structure. An ACS
  “Best of Show” winner, aged a                                                        — Jed Davis, Cabot Creamery
  minimum of 10 months.

Crawford Family Farm                       supple texture with hints of nuts     Hope Farm
                                           and grass. Aged a minimum of 90
Vermont Ayr                                days.                                 Tomme de Brebis
  is an alpine                                                                     is a smooth
  style tomme,                                                                     and buttery
                                         Frog City Cheese                          semi firm
  with a sweet
  nuttiness that                         Plymouth                                  sheep’s’ milk
  typifies the                              Cheese’s                               cheese with a
  milk from the                             Traditional                            natural white
  Crawford’s                                Granular Curd                          mold rind.
  herd of registered Ayrshire               Cheese is a
  cows. Aged for a minimum of six           tangy, rich,                         Pierce Hill is a dense firm sheep’s’
  months.                                   open bodied,                            milk cheese with a sweet nutty
                                            traditional                             flavor.
Dancing Cow Farm                            and uncomplicated raw cows’ milk
                                            cheese made the old-fashioned
Menuet made                                 way on the Calvin Coolidge estate       Working with Jasper Hill
  with uncooled                             in Plymouth, Vermont.                   has allowed us to stay in
  raw cow’s                                                                         cheesemaking without having
  milk from a                            Grafton Village Cheese                     to build a new facility. They
  single milking,                                                                   have made a terrific effort
  Menuet is a                            Traditional                                to maintain the quality that
  tomme style                               Clothbound                              customers expect and their staff
  cheese that                               Cheddar                                 has made it successful.
  is sweet and nutty with a creamy          is a 20
  texture and lingering finish. Aged a      pound wheel                                           — Barbara Levin
  minimum of five months.                   made with                                                  Hope Farm
                                            unpasteurized
Bourrée made with uncooled raw              milk and offers earthy, meaty and
  cow’s milk from a single milking,         mushroom overtones. It is aged for                     continued on page 4
  Bourree is a washed rind cheese           10 - 12 months.
  that has an earthy aroma and


                                                           3
Cheeses Aging at
Jasper Hill                               I enjoy the collaboration with Jasper Hill as it has allowed me to grow
continued from page 3                     my business without having to make nearly impossible expansions to
                                          my farm which is off the grid My cave is so small I haven’t been able to
                                          make and age raw milk cheeses until now.
Jasper Hill Farm
                                                                               — Laini Fondiller, Lazy Lady Farm
Bayley Hazen
  Blue is
  an earthy,
  natural rinded                       Neighborly Farms                          Vermont Water Buffalo
  blue cheese                          Organic                                   Cave-Aged
  with a dense                           Clothbound                                Ravello is
  chocolatey                             Raw Milk                                  hand made
  paste. Made from the raw milk          Cheddar                                   from 100%
  of the Kehler’s Ayrshire cows,         in 18 to 22                               raw Water
  Bayley is an American original and     pound wheels,                             Buffalo milk
  the flagship cheese of Jasper Hill     aged 12 to 18                             without
  Farm.                                  months, and offering earthy, nutty,       additives or preservatives. It is
                                         and slightly sharp flavors.               produced at Crowley Cheese and
Constant Bliss is a bloomy rinded                                                  then brought to Jasper Hill to age
  lactic cheese made from fresh
  uncooled evening milk. Perhaps       Ploughgate Creamery                         for a minimum of five months.

  the only raw-milk cheese of its      Sheep Sorrel                              Sarentino is made with 100% raw
  kind, Constant Bliss has a soft        is a bloomy                               Water Buffalo milk by cheese-
  supple paste under the rind and        rinded ewe’s                              makers at Plymouth Cheese using
  a firm cakey heart, with fresh         milk cheese                               a variation of their Farmstead
  milky flavors. Named after a           modeled after                             recipe. This is a granular curd
  Revolutionary War scout killed in      a Camembert                               style cheese and is developing
  Greensboro in 1781.                    recipe. It is                             more flavor complexity as it ages.
                                         produced seasonally April through
Lazy Lady Farm                           October and is named for the
                                         plant that is found in northern
Mixed Emotions                           pastures with leaves shaped like
  is a raw goat                          the face of a sheep.
  milk cheese.
  It is a washed
  curd and a                           Twig Farm
  washed rind                          Washed Rind
  cheese with                            Wheel is a raw
  a bit of cream added to the mix to     milk washed
  “sweeten” it up.                       rind cheese
                                         made from
  We are grateful that the cheddar       pure goat’s
  making skills of Grafton Village       milk from
  Cheese combined with the               April through September, and from
  affinage expertise at Jasper Hill      mixed goat and cow (primarily
  will result in an extraordinary        Jersey) milk in from September
  cloth bound cheddar worthy of          until the animals come off pasture.
  Wine Spectator’s 2008 100 Great        The texture is semi-soft. Flavor
                                         changes with the season, spring/
  Cheeses list.”                                                                   Jasper Hill’s Andy Kehler helps
                                         summer cheeses tending to be
   — Peter Mohn, Grafton Village         clean, nutty, and meaty...the later       out to photograph cheeses
               Cheese Company            season cheeses more often being           aging at “The Cellars”.
                                         fruity, and sometimes stronger.



                                                         4
               Awards – Here and Abroad
American Cheese Society                 2nd place – Manchester (Farmstead,      West River Creamery
   As usual, Vermonters fared well at     goats milk cheese, aged 60 days or    3rd place – Marinated Feta
this annual competition which brings      more)
cheeses together from all over the      2nd place – Dorset (Washed Rind,        World Cheese Awards in
US, and now the world. Highlights of      from cow’s milk)                      Dublin
the competition from the Vermont                                                   Twelve judges evaluated 2,400
perspective:                            Dancing Cow                             cheeses from all over the world
                                        2nd place – Bouree (Washed Rind,        at this 20 year old event, held
•	 20	VCC	companies	entered	at	           cow’s milk)                           September 29th. Vermonters who
   least one entry in this year’s                                               fared well included:
   competition.                         Franklin Foods
•	 Out	of	the	20	companies,	a	dozen	    1st place – Hahn’s Yogurt & Cream       Grafton Village Cheese Company
   received at least one ribbon.           Cheese                                 won a bronze medal in the
•	 In	all,	there	were	33	ribbons	for	   1st place – Hahn’s Yogurt & Cream         Smoked Cheddar category.
   Vermont companies, the second           Cheese Heavenly Plain
   most ever for VCC.                   2nd place – Hahn’s Yogurt & Cream       Vermont Butter & Cheese
                                           Cheese Blueberry Dream                 Company took Silver Meals for
  Vermont winners at the                2nd place – Hahn’s Yogurt & Cream         their Vermont Chevre, Fresh
competition were as follows:               Cheese Strawberry                      Crottin, and Creamy Goat Cheese
                                        2nd place – All Season’s Kitchen,         while their Quark and Bijou both
Blythedale Farm                            Salsa Cream Cheese & Roasted           earned bronze medals.
3rd place – Vermont Farmstead Brie         Garlic
                                        3rd place -All Season’s Kitchen Salsa   Willow Hill Farm won a bronze
Bonnieview Farm                            Cream Cheese                           medal for a new cheese called
2nd place – Ben Nevis (Organic          3rd place – Hahn’s Neufchatel             Butternut, the alpine style cow’s
  Sheep’s Milk, aged 60 + days)                                                   milk cheese that is both buttery
                                        Neighborly Farm                           and nutty.
Cabot Creamery Cooperative              1st place – Organic Jalapeno Jack
1st place – 75% Reduced Fat                                                     For a list of all the winners, visit:
   Cheddar                              Shelburne Farms                         http://www.finefoodworld.co.uk/
2nd place – Monterey Jack               1st place – Smoked Farmhouse            ffwawards.asp?AwardID=78
2nd place – Pepper Jack                    Cheese
2nd place – Three Year Old Cheddar                                              World Jersey Cheese
2nd place – Clothbound Cheddar          Thistle Hill                            Awards
   aged at The Cellars at Jasper Hill   3rd place – Tarentaise                  Consider Bardwell Farm’s Dorset,
2nd place – Cabot Cottage Cheese
                                                                                  a washed-rind, raw Jersey cow’s
2nd place – Cabot Salted Butter         Vermont Butter & Cheese                   milk cheese was named “Best
                                        Company                                   Washed Rind Cheese” at this
3rd place – Crème’ Fraiche              1st place – Vermont Fresh Crottin         2008 competition. A rich, buttery
3rd place – Extra Sharp Cheddar         1st place – Vermont Cultured Butter       texture with seasonally influenced
   Wheel                                   & Sea Salt                             pungency, aged two to three
                                        2nd place – Vermont Feta                  months. Available year-round in
Consider Bardwell                       2nd place – Vermont Cultured Butter,      three-pound wheels.
2nd place – Pawlet (American Made,         unsalted
  international style, cow’s milk)      3rd place – Vermont Mascarpone




                                                          5
                             Cheese Champions

Distributors                                                                         is of quality and perhaps more of an
Wendy Hallgren, President,                                                           interest currently in aged cheeses
Provisions International,
White River Junction, Vermont                                                        What’s the best part about
                                                                                     distributing Vermont made
When did you establish Provisions?                                                   cheeses?
   I moved to Vermont in 1985                                                           Being part of the local indigenous
from Princeton, NJ where I ran a                                                     food movement has been very
successful catering business. Initially                                              gratifying. We’ve built great
I thought I would reestablish that                                                   relationships with cheesemakers
business until I became increasingly                                                 and our customers. We go to the
aware of the lack of available high                                                  farm to pick up cheeses, we educate
quality, local product, including                                                    our customers about the farms and
cheese. When I talked to some local                                                  the cheesemakers as well as their
chefs and retailers I found they were                                                products. We do this because we
bringing in products from New York                                                   love Vermont cheese. We love getting
and the West Coast by mail order.         Wendy Halegran, President/Owner,           their cheese out there – and feel very
So, I established Provisions in 1986      Provisions International, Vermont          honored and grateful to be part of
to address the need to source high                                                   this industry.
quality specialty food items from         cheese industry has exploded and
within the region.                        the quality of cheese coming out of        Retailers
                                          Vermont is notable. I’m delighted to       Anne Saxelby – Owner,
How did you get started carrying          have been able to work with many of        Saxelby Cheesemongers,
Vermont cheeses?                          these cheesemakers to find markets         120 Essex St., New York, New York
   Cheese was one of the products I       for their great products. It’s been a
definitely wanted to carry. My first      pleasure.                                  When did your love affair with
cheese customers were goats’ milk                                                    cheese begin?
cheeses from Vermont Butter and           What has been your greatest                   I moved to NYC to go to art school
Cheese Company in Websterville            challenges?                                in 1999, but after a trip to Florence,
and cheddars from the Grafton                Initially it was consistency. Now its   Italy, I found myself falling out of
Village Cheese Company. My initial        availability - demand is far exceeding     love with art as a career and into
customers were very local: Coops,         the supply. We get monthly allocation      love with cheese. Once I graduated, I
specialty food retailers and white        from most cheesemakers and can sell        went to work for six months making
table cloth restaurants.                  out in a week.                             cheese at Cato Corner Farm in
                                                                                     Connecticut and then went to work
How many different cheesemakers           Where do you see growth                    at Murray’s Cheese shop in New York.
do you now carry ?                        opportunities ?
  I’ve carried many Vermont cheese-          Continuing to educate the market        When did you open your own
makers over the years and now             is an opportunity. Our cheese-             shop?
represent 20 of them, in addition to      makers know that we represent                 Well, I always wanted to open
some European cheese and cheeses          their products well – and we get           own place and about two and a
made elsewhere in New England.            it out there in front of audiences,        half years ago I took the plunge. At
Originally, 80% of my cheeses were        including high end restaurants             first, I didn’t know if I wanted more
European and 20% were regional;           whose appreciation for the product is      of a cheese shop or wine bar but
now that number has reversed. In          great. There is strong interest across     gradually my focus narrowed down
the past five years the Vermont           the board provided that the cheese         to cheese. I found a tiny space in the


                                                             6
lower East Side – 120 square                                                                 What was it like meeting the




                                  CP Waite
feet – where I sell American                                                                 cheesemakers and visiting
cheese from small farms in                                                                   the farms in Vermont where
the northeast. More than 50%                                                                 the cheeses are made?
of what I sell comes from                                                                       I’ve made visits to almost
Vermont – about 600 pounds                                                                   every Vermont cheesemaker
of Vermont cheese from about                                                                 whose cheese I sell. I love
15 producers a month.                                                                        making cheese and much
                                                                                             as I love eating, selling and
What is it about Vermont                                                                     talking about it. Going to
cheese that intrigues you                                                                    the farms is a fantastic way
and your customers?                                                                          of understanding the stories
   At the shop all the cheeses                                                               behind the cheeses – and
are labeled with name of                                                                     passing those on to the
farm, the type of cheese, and                                                                customers.
the type of milk. Most of my
customers are families from                                                                  Do you think there are
the surrounding neighborhood                                                                 growth opportunities for
who come because they love                                                                   Vermont made cheeses?
delicious cheese, and want                                                                      Definitely. My customers
to support local businesses                                                                  rave about them and they
and local food producers.                                                                    keep coming back for more.
However, we also have a                                                                      I love the variety and quality
fair amount of European                                                                      coming out of Vermont.
customers who come because                                                                   Personally, I am a sucker for
of the freshness and quality of                                                              all things goat’s milk, but they
the cheeses we carry. Nothing                                                                are all fantastic products.
stays around for very long. We
love the local nature of these                                                               Anne Saxelby, Owner, Saxelby
cheeses.                                                                                     Cheesemongers, New York City




                                             VIAC Happenings

T
     he Vermont Institute for Artisan         •	 Advanced Cheesemaking                 is a renowned cheese scientist and
     Cheese (VIAC) at the University             Certificate Program (ACC) for         director of one of the world’s most
     of Vermont is the nation’s first            experienced cheesemakers. This        prestigious research institutions in
and only comprehensive center                    program includes cross-cultural,      dairy products (National French
devoted to artisan cheese. Courses               national and international            Institute of Agronomic Research
and special events are offered                   exchange programs and visiting        (INRA)/SRTAL Poligny). Gabriel
throughout the year for the casual               guest experts in our International                   continued on next page
cheese lover to the most experienced             Artisan Practices workshops,
of cheesemakers. The Institute                   which are a key function of the
supports programs designed to meet               Institute’s teaching mission
an array of needs:
                                                Early in November, VIAC hosted
•	 Cheesemaking Certificate
                                              the three-day Artisan Cheese
   Program (CC) for beginning
                                              Practices: Alpine Cheese taught
   cheesemakers.
                                              by Dr. Eric Beuvier and Master
•	 Public education courses that              cheesemaker Gaby Duboz, both from
   range from cheese tasting to               France and among the finest cheese
   technical practices                        experts in the world. Dr. Eric Beuvier   Gabriel Duboz


                                                                7
VIAC Happenings                          special participation of The Cheese       out quickly, so plans are underway to
continued from page 7                    Nun, Sister Noella Marcelino. The         repeat it in the spring. To learn more
                                         course was her first cheese-related       about upcoming workshops and other
Duboz is the Master cheesemaker          public appearance in the last five        VIAC courses, contact Jody Farnham
at the same institution with over        years. During their visit to Vermont,     at (802) 656-8300 or check the VIAC
25 years of experience in Alpine         the experts also visited some             web site (http://nutrition.uvm.edu/
and artisanal French cheeses. The        Vermont cheesemakers. Interest in         viac).
program also included with the           the VIAC course was so strong it sold




                                           New Members
   Fat Toad Farm is a small              like making maple syrup. Fresh goat’s     Fat Toad Caramels: Original; Coffee
family-run goat dairy located in         milk is hand-stir with organic cane         Bean; Vanilla Bean and Cinnamon
Brookfield in the hills of Central       sugar over the stove for about four
Vermont. It is run by Steve Reid,        hours. During this time, the sugars          For more product information,
Judith Irving, and Calley and Josey      in the milk and the sugar caramelize      please visit their website:
Hastings. Fat Toad Farm is a certified   and produce a sweet and tasty             www.fattoadfarm.com
goat dairy producing fresh goat          caramel sauce. The caramel can be
cheese, goat milk caramel, and farm      used on fresh fruit, in or on dessert     Other New Members:
fresh and pasteurized goat milk. The     dishes- on top of apple pie, as a layer
twenty does are rotationally grazed      in chocolate cakes, drizzled on ice       Hildene Farm Signature Cheese
during the pasture months and fed        cream, added to oatmeal or yogurt for     Manchester, VT
grain and local hay to supplement        breakfast, or stirred into hot drinks     Manchester, VT
their diet. Fresh cheese is made twice   like coffee, tea or warm milk.            www.hildene.org
a week in season in small batches.
   The farm also produces caramel        Fat Toad Farm Cheeses: Fresh              Spring Brook Farm
from goat milk, a process somewhat         Chevre; Flavored Chevre; Dessert        Reading, VT
                                           Chevres including Maple Chevre          www.FarmsforCityKids.org
                                           and Heavenly Lemony.




                                                                                                                            Hildene File Photo




Spring Brook Farm Tarentaise
cheese crew celebrates the intoduc-
tion the first cheese at the open
house at the farm in October. From
the left; Jeremy Stephenson, John
Putnam, Janine Putnam, Eric
Johnson, Jess Dunkel. Spring Brook       The Rowland Agricultural Center at Hildene Farm, scheduled to open to the
Farm is making Tarentaise under          public next summer. There visitors will see the cheesemaking process from
license granted by VCC member,           beginning to end: from milking the goats, to processing and packaging, to the
Thistle Hill Farm.                       aging room. Check www.vtcheese.com for updates.


                                                           8
                              Mail Order Me Cheese

M
         any of Vermont’s finest         via phone at (802)                                  Orb Weaver’s Marjorie
         cheeses are available by mail   623-6600, or by                                     Sussman and Marion
         order, this holiday season      email, scrawford@                                   Pollack hold 10 pound
and, in some cases, year-round.          surfglobal.net or                                   wheels of their cave
                                         on the web at                                       aged cheese along side
   Blythedale Farm will have its Brie    www.crawfordfam-                                    their dog, Utani.
and Camembert available throughout       ilyfarm.com
the holiday season in the Harrington’s
of Vermont mail order catalog. You         Crowley Cheese is available
can order on line at http://www.         on line through their website:            Please find a printable order form
harringtonham.com/cat.cfm/cid/6.         www.crowleycheese.com                     on line and note they do not accept
                                                                                   credit cards.
   Cabot Cooperative Creamery’s             Fat Toad Farm’s holiday offering
waxed wheels and blocks of various       consists of four jars of Traditional         Shelburne Farms offers holiday
type cheddars are always popular         Goat Milk Caramel (one of each            gift ideas through both their
holiday gifts. They also offer an        flavor – original, coffee bean, vanilla   traditional catalog as well as on-line.
assortment of gift packages that         bean, cinnamon) nestled in a              They will ship anywhere and offer
combine their cheddar with maple         beautiful, one-of-a-kind, handcrafted     packages that include varieties of
syrup and specialty foods from           wooden box with sliding top created       their cheddar cheese along with
Vermont. Visit www.shopcabot.com         by Vermont Wooden Box Company,            other Vermont products. Visit www.
or to request a catalog or place an                                                shelburnefarms.com/default.asp.
order, you can call 800-639-3198.
                                                                                      Vermont Shepherd offers holiday
   The                                                                             cheese gift packages.
American                                                                           Visit their website
Farmstead                                                                          www.vermont-
Collection                                                                         shepherd.com or
at Williams-                                                                       give them a call at
Sonoma                                                                             802-387-4473.
includes
two                                                                                   Vermont Water Buffalo has an
Vermont                                  Randolph, Vermont. Visit their web        online store where they sell their
cheeses:                                 site for more information www.            cheeses, yogurt, and meats. The web
Vermont                                  fattoadfarm.com                           site is www.bufaladivermont.com.
Ayr, a rustic yet refined semi hard
tomme made from raw cow’s milk.             Grafton Village Cheese Company
from Crawford Family Farm                has lots of holiday gift ideas on           Mark Your Calendars
and La Fleurie, a soft-ripened           their website www.graftonvil-                  Mark your calendars now
cow’s milk cheese with a beautiful       lagecheese.com, call for a catalog          to attend The Vermont
bloomy rind from Willow Hill             at 800-472-3866 or visit one of             Cheesemakers’ Festival at
Farm. http://www.williams-sonoma.        their retail stores in Grafton or           Shelburne Farms August 23,
com/products/sku7089410/index.           Brattleboro.                                2009. Cheesemakers from
cfm?pkey=cfoods%2Dnew                                                                around the region will be selling
                                           Orb Weaver Farm offers                    cheese and other artisan foods
  From their own site, Crawford          two-pounds of cave aged cheese              all day. Seminars will be offered
Family Farm offers Vermont Ayr as        and two-pound waxed wheels for              on wine and cheese pairings,
well as Lemon F’Ayr — a semi-soft        mail order on their web site: www.          cheese fundamentals, beer
mild and creamy raw cow’s milk           orbweaverfarm.com. They say they            and cheese pairings as well as
cheese waxed in a festive holiday red    usually have plenty of the waxed, but       cheesemaking demonstrations.
wax, aged two months. Contact them       sometimes run out of the cave aged.


                                                            9
                                     Small BiteS
  Vermont Butter & Cheese
Company was featured on the Food
Network Show Road Tasted with the        Wine Spectator’s 100 Great Cheeses
Neelys, airing for the second time in


                                         T
October. The segment featured VB&C            he cover story for the September
co-founder Allison Hooper making              2008 issue of Wine Spectator was
cheese with the Neelys.                       entitled “100 Great Cheeses.”
                                         The authors used “diversity of origin
                                         and character, the cheese’s affinity for
                                         wine pairings and sheer deliciousness”
   Vermont Shepherd in Putney            in making their selections. Of the 32
will be having an open house on the      chosen from the United States, 10
Friday, Saturday and Sunday after        come from Vermont. They are:
Thanksgiving (November 28 – 30th)
from 10-5 as part of the Putney Craft    Blue Ledge Farm: Lake’s Edge
Tour. Cheese gift packages will be       Cabot Creamery and Jasper Hill
available for purchase on those dates,     Farm: Clothbound Cheddar
and can be shipped anywhere in the
                                         Consider Bardwell Farm:
US. www.vermontshepherd.com.
                                           Manchester
                                         Crawford Family Farm: Vermont Ayr
                                         Grafton Village Cheese and
Improving Product                          Jasper Hill Farm: Clothbound
   With funding provided by a Farm         Cheddar
Viability Enhancement Grant, several     Grafton Village Cheese: Cheddar,
Vermont cheesemakers gathered              One-Year
in November at Lazy Lady Farm
                                         Jasper Hill Farm: Bayley Hazen Blue
to avail themselves of technical
assistance from Marc Druart, Cheese      Jasper Hill Farm: Winnemere
Technician and Master Cheesemaker        Shelburne Farms: Cheddar, Two-Year
from VIAC. Topics included cultures,
                                         Thistle Hill Farm: Tarentaise, One-Year
heating and washing curd, and rind
development. The grant was procured
by Mark Fischer of Woodcock Farm            To see details on each cheese,
to help seasoned cheesemakers            including wine pairings and recipes,       John and Janine Putnam
continue to improve their techniques     visit www.winespectator.com.               holding Thistle Hill Farm’s
and products.                                                                       prized Tarentaise.

                                                                                    Consider Bardwell’s
  VCC Officers 2008/2009                                                            Manchester, one of the 100
                                                                                    Great Cheeses is an aged,
          Laini Fondiller
                                                                                    raw goat’s milk peasant
    President, Lady Lazy Farm
                                                                                    Tomme with a nutty and
           Mark Fischer
                                                                                    earthy rustic bite. Aged
  Vice President, Woodcock Farm
                                                                                    three to five months.
            Andy Kehler
                                                                                    Available year-round in
    Treasurer, Jasper Hill Farm
                                                                                    three pound wheels.
            Linda Miller
    Secretary, Jericho Hill Farm



                                                        10
       Upcoming Events for Vermont Cheese Council
                                                                          Vermont Cheese
 Love Vermont cheese? Be sure to join us for our 2009 series of           Council Member
                Vermont Cheese Tasting Dinners.
      Meet the farmers, taste the cheese, savor great food.                Cheesemakers
                                                                                Blue Ledge Farm
  Vermont Cheese Council members will pair with Vermont chefs for
                                                                                 Blythedale Farm
    events around the state in 2009. Be sure to watch our website:
      www.vtcheese.com for dates and call for more information.                 Bonnieview Farm
   If you are a chef and would like to participate, contact our office.          Cabot Creamery
                                                                          Champlain Valley Creamery
                                                                                Cobb Hill Cheese
                                                                            Consider Bardwell Farm
                Become a Friend of VCC                                       Crawford Family Farm
                                                                              Crowley Cheese Inc.
    The Vermont Cheese Council is dedicated to the production                  Dancing Cow Farm
   and advancement of Vermont cheese. Thank you for joining us               Doe’s Leap Goat Farm
      as a new member. We greatly appreciate your support!                        Fat Toad Farm
                                                                                  Franklin Foods
Individual/Friend Members: Cheese Lovers who support our efforts:
                                                                                Frog City Cheese
  ❏ $50.
                                                                           Grafton Village Cheese Co
Associate Members: Trade members: Non-cheesemaking members who
                                                                          Green Mountain Blue Cheese
  distribute, sell & market cheese;
                                                                            Hildene Farm Signature
  ❏ $ 75. Individual                                                                   Cheese
  ❏ $150.Small business membership
                                                                           Hope Farm Sheep Cheese
Corporate Sponsors: Members who would like to do more to help us                 Jasper Hill Farm
  achieve our goals:
                                                                                Jericho Hill Farm
  ❏ $250. “Velveeta Defeatahs” member
  ❏ $500. “Got Your Goats” member                                              Lake’s End Cheeses
  ❏ $1,000. “Knights of the Round Gouda” member                                  Lazy Lady Farm
  ❏ $2.500. “High Order of the Sharp Cheddar” member                            Maplebrook Farm
                                                                                Neighborly Farms
Name                                                                            Orb Weaver Farm
Address                                                                     Peaked Mountain Farm
City
                                                                              Ploughgate Creamery
                                                                                Shelburne Farms
State                              Zip
                                                                                Springbrook Farm
E-Mail                                                                             Taylor Farm
Website                                                                         Thistle Hill Farm
                                                                            Three Owls Sheep Dairy
Phone
                                                                                    Twig Farm
Fax Number                                                                 Vermont Butter & Cheese
                                                                                      Company
                       Please make checks payable to:
                                                                               Vermont Shepherd
                        The Vermont Cheese Council.
                                                                             Vermont Water Buffalo
           Mail to: c/o Ellen Ogden, The Vermont Cheese Council
               P.O. Box 1007, Manchester Village, VT 05254                    West River Creamery
          For more information please contact us at 866-261-8595,                Willow Hill Farm
                      or by e-mail at info@vtcheese.com                          Woodcock Farm



                                                        11
Vermont Farm Bureau                                           Non-Profit Org.
Vermont Cheese Council                                         U.S. Postage
117 West Main Street                                              PAID
Richmond, VT 05477                                            Permit No. 222
                                                                Barre, VT
                                                                  05641




       Mail Order Offerings for the Holidays
                                               The Vermont Cheese Council



C
        heese – the perfect accompa-            Newsletter is published for
        niment to any holiday
                                                    food professionals.
        meal and an ideal hostess
gift. Check out a list of mail order             With written permission,
cheese options on page 9.                        reprinting is encouraged.
   Vermont Butter & Cheese
Company’s “Cheese lover basket”
— a sampling of six of their most                        Contact:
popular cheeses available at a cost                  the Vermont
of $50. Available only through
www.vtbutterandcheeseco.com.
                                                    CheeSe CounCil
                                                 Ellen Ogden, Coordinator
Mail order is also available from:
                                                      P.O. Box 1007
•	   Blythedale	Farms
                                               Manchester Village, VT 05254
•	   Cabot	Creamery	Cooperative
•	   Crawford	Family	Farm                             866-261-8595
•	   Crowley	Cheese                              www.vtcheese.com
•	   Fat	Toad	Farm
•	   Grafton	Village	Cheese	Company
•	   Orb	Weaver	Farm
•	   Shelburne	Farms
•	   Vermont	Shepherd
•	   Vermont	Water	Buffalo
•	   Willow	Hill	Farm



                                       12

				
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