the guide.
italian
melbourne
Matt Preston delves into the noisy pizzerias, elegant restaurants, cosy trattorias
and treasure troves of imported produce to be found in Australia’s Italian capital.
WORDS MATT PReSToN PHOTOGRAPHY MARK RoPeR
Melbourne has more than 120,000 people The influence on Melbourne’s restaurant inner-city hits
who speak Italian at home. And while the and cafe culture has been no less profound, Becco
community has been Victoria’s largest non- thanks to family names including Triaca, Start with stuffed olives, finish with nougat,
English-speaking group since the 1920s, Massoni, Vigano, Molina, Codognotto then repair to the bar for a Becco Macchiato
their influence has been felt since the Gold and Pellegrini – all of whom helped shape – a vodka-spiked Campari tonic. Now in its
Rush. Rafaello Carboni was a prominent the city’s early dining scene. second decade, Simon Hartley and Richard
figure at the Eureka Stockade, Dame Nellie Today the city is twinned with Milan, Lodge’s are assured on the floor, while Liz
Melba’s singing teacher was Italian, and and offers a huge choice of Italian-inspired Egan and Domenic Pipicelli’s menu can be
cycling champion Nino Borsari helped places, from slick city diners to local relied on for simple, elegant fare. 11-25
Melbourne win the 1956 Olympics! trattorias. Here are some of our favourites. Crossley St, Melbourne, (03) 9663 3000.
58 delicious.
The intimate interior of Cafe Di
Stasio. Clockwise from below: coffee
and sfogliatelle at Brunetti; fresh
bakes at Sugardough; the elegant,
yet simple, Becco; their spaghettini
vongole; classic Italian counter
at Brunetti; the scent of herbs at
Journal Canteen; chef Guy Grossi;
Grossi Florentino’s mixed antipasto.
GRoSSi FloReNTiNo with iconic espresso bar Pellegrini’s (66 ceccoNi’S cANTiNA
Downstairs there’s The Grill, which offers Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 1885) The Bortolotto family’s restaurant has
good-value pre-theatre and lunch menus. offering a terrific communal table and slipped into this basement (previously
For a glass of red and a simple pasta – nonna-style food in a small room out the home to Langton’s) as if it was a pair of
perhaps the homemade lasagne with back. While The Waiters’ Restaurant (Lvl supple Gucci loafers. Now the lush
pasta sheets so silky you’d almost like to 1, 20 Meyers Pl, Melbourne, (03) 9650 chocolate, linen and marble space positively
wear them, we’d pick a table in the 1508) is an equally famous, and rather hums. Meats from the rotisserie, rich pastas
window or on the pavement of The Cellar rambunctious, room tucked away in a and a dish of spicy quail with grapes are
Bar. Upstairs is the Mural Room, where laneway across the road. highlights. Basement, 61 Flinders La,
Guy Grossi’s menu is more about white More modern, simple CBD places that Melbourne, (03) 9663 0222.
truffles from Alba, handmade duck are worth a look for piadine and decent Another basement-level city stalwart
tortellini or slow-cooked abbacchio (lamb). coffee include Espressino (Shop 7, 50 with a solid business clientele is Caterina’s
80 Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 1811. Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 3334) Cucina E Bar (Basement, 221 Queen St,
There’s a great little pocket of old-school and Piadina Slow Food (Rear 57 Lonsdale Melbourne, (03) 9670 8488), where you
cheap Italian in this corner of Melbourne, St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 2277). should always trust charismatic owner
the guide.
Caterina Borsato’s suggestions – especially cooked peasant staples. A wonderful PizzA e ViNo
if they include the osso buco. Another is warm antipasto platter of fried ricotta, This new, modern pizzeria careens along
Il Solito Posto (Basement, 113 Collins St – eggplant fritters and marinated veg like a runaway train – it may be noisy
entry on George Pde, Melbourne, (03) 9654 alongside salumi is a great opener on a and feels slightly chaotic, but it all works
4466), where the bar is also a great spot menu where the limited choice for a main rather well in spite of this fact. They’re
for a coffee or pasta on the run. might include a spiced braise of tripe with also fantastic with kids, who will be
potato, lima beans and parmesan. End enthralled by the dough-tossing displays
SARTi with an orange-scented ricotta cannoli and love the margherita pizza that comes
After going walkabout for a couple of and a stovetop coffee. 253 Flinders Lane, with a topping of splayed frankfurts.
years, prodigal chef Riccardo Momesso Melbourne, (03) 9650 4399. 517 Malvern Rd, Hawksburn Village,
has returned to one of Joe Mammone’s Toorak, (03) 9826 8815.
restaurants. Now Sarti is serving some of south yarra & beyond Pizza e Vino’s owner, Luca Lorusso,
the city’s most interesting Italian food, DA Noi also runs the smaller, calmer and smarter
from pan-seared duck livers with pickled On our last visit to Da Noi, the cooking Cafe Latte (521 Malvern Rd, Toorak,
onions and an almond cream, to amaretti- of Pietro Porcu and his team had achieved (03) 9826 5846) next door.
crumbed whiting or chestnut tagliatelle a pitch approaching a perfection that
with oxtail ragu. Desserts are another leaves you a little heady – or maybe that The GRAND
strength, with trendy modern touches was the wine list loaded with Italian If you’re in Richmond, The Grand offers a
like “spherification” and “soils” creeping classics. No, it was (mainly) the food – so smart dining room in an old pub with
in to the dishes, so definitely save space. throw yourselves at the mercy of the polished Italian, and there’s nothing
Besides his famous pistachio pannacotta kitchen with the degustation and let waves stuffy about it. 333 Burnley St, Richmond,
(one of the city’s best) with crunchy of Sardinian-influenced flavour crash over (03) 9429 2530.
caramel salted popcorn, his chocolate you. Dishes might include roast kid or
gelato is also becoming legendary. 6 suckling pig; slow-cooked lamb with PizzeRiA AMici
Russell Pl, Melbourne, (03) 9639 7822. honey; saffron and pea arancini; or snapper This no-frills pizzeria is “so hot right
Sarti’s sister restaurant, Il Bacaro broth with couscous-like fregolina. This is now” thanks to the La Fila pizza, topped
(168-170 Little Collins St, Melbourne, (03) casalinga cookery – honest and robust – with prawns, tomato, artichokes, parsley,
9654 6778) is a slick laneway eatery oozing with friendly service to match. In winter, basil, garlic and lemon. They also have a
mod-Italian style, whether for romantic beg for a table near the fireplace. 95 Toorak gluten-free pizza with a base made from
dinners or intimate business lunches. The Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9866 5975. chickpea flour, which is taken from
food and wine list match that vibe. a Medieval recipe. 100 Burdundy St,
cAFFe e cuciNA Heidelberg, (03) 9459 0907.
NoSTRo BAReTTo This influential Italian stalwart started the If you want something more burnished
If we’re talking dinky Italian, then this careers of restaurateurs Maurice Terzini down this way, try Va Tutto (226 Upper
tiny whitewashed dining room under the and Mauro Marcucci, and created a legion Heidelberg Rd, Ivanhoe, (03) 9499 7769).
revamped GPO building is a contender of imitators. These lads may have moved
for the title. The simple, chic room only fits on but their legacy of a cosy interior with southbank & st kilda
a handful of tables but Umberto Lallo’s sultry lighting remains an attraction for GiuSePPe ARNAlDo & SoNS
service is effusive, and the food is rustic those seeking crowd-pleasing Italian. The Maurice Terzini and Robert Marchetti have
without being clumsy. The baked peaches calamari St Andrea here probably started returned to Melbourne from their Sydney
with gorgonzola and prosciutto, the Melbourne’s long-running and ubiquitous adventure at Icebergs and North Bondi
cotechino sausage, and simple fresh craze for rocket, lemon and calamari. 581 Italian Food to launch this modern take on
pastas are among our favourites here. Chapel St, South Yarra, (03) 9827 4139. a traditional Roman trattoria, which is
Shop G25, 350 Bourke St, Melbourne – named after their dads. The big space is
entry from laneway, (03) 9654 5838. cAFFe Veloce cleverly split up by pods lined with
A recent opening by Mauro Marcucci, colourful Sicilian tiles. Expect a shimmery,
JouRNAl cANTeeN Caffe Veloce sits in a showroom full of glamorous clientele and Robert’s stylish
One of the new kids on the block, Rosa classic Italian sports cars. If available, try take on Italian food, which is anchored by
Mitchell has moved from Fitzroy’s the skinny spaghetti tossed with a rich, such positives as local artisan Italian cold
Gertrude St Enoteca to this first-floor red-wine sauce with plump black olives cuts, and cheeses expertly aged by Richard
space, which feels like a 1940s classroom. and little tangles of octopus. Definitely Thomas of de Bortoli. Shop 25, Crown
Grab a stool at the window for bustling finish with their house-made biscotti. 9-11 Complex, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank,
laneway views and a menu of well- Claremont St, South Yarra, (03) 8080 9995. (03) 9292 8888.
60 delicious.
Sarti set for the lunchtime crowd. Clockwise
from top right: warm service at the Enoteca
Vino Bar; relaxing among their rustic decor;
chocolate and chestnut semifreddo at Sarti;
enjoy artisan pizzas at I Carussi II;
their gorgonzola and leek pizza.
delicious. 61
the guide.
Outdoor dining at
Grossi Florentino.
Clockwise from left: the
striking interior of Pizza
e Vino; classic casalinga
cooking at Da Noi.
ScuSAMi and roast duck in marsala broth. Their radicchio and calamari. The $30 set lunch is
This expensive showpiece, with great gelato won big in a recent medal haul – try a fine deal – even if you pay extra for a
views of the Yarra from its balconies, offers the gold-awarded banana, or hazelnut and second glass of wine and sides, but regulars
some interesting menu twists like scampi vibrant strawberry, which both won silver. can get better service than first-timers.
carpaccio, and zabaglione whisked “live” Shop 28, Mid lvl, Southgate, Southgate 31 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9525 3999.
at the table and served with toasted Ave, Southbank, (03) 9696 3334.
panettone in the best Milanese style. There’s MelBouRNe WiNe RooM
also the cheaper L’Osteria eatery attached. cAFe Di STASio The kitchen that TV chef Karen Martini
Mid lvl Southgate, 3 Southgate Ave, The crisp white jackets of the waiters, the oversees is capable of turning out great
Southbank, (03) 9699 4111. polished clientele, the intimate interior – modern Italian, but request to sit in the
this could be Melbourne’s quintessential restaurant area with its huge mirror and
TuTTo BeNe Italian restaurant. It’s as much about the groovy lighting, rather than the raucous
With the same views as Scusami, but less experience led by exemplary maitre d’ bar – unless you want to shout rather than
swanky interior and prices, Simon Mallory Wall and quixotic owner Ronnie di whisper into your partner’s ear. They do
Humble’s risotteria is great for seasonal Stasio as the famed dishes, such as their good steak, oysters and bar snacks, too.
risotto – perhaps with wild mushrooms, crayfish omelette, or maltagliata pasta with 125 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9525 5599.
62 delicious.
the guide.
Slicing cured meats
at DOC. From
far left: Carlton
Espresso; traditional
Italian at Woodstock.
PizzA e BiRRA north-west wonders TiAMo
Carb-avoiders should choose the grilled cARlToN eSPReSSo This moody cafe, and Lygon Street icon,
calamari with rocket, radicchio salad and Tony Nicolini has made a fair fist of is older than most of the Italian soccer
salsa verde rather than the large pizzas at reinventing the Lygon Street cafe for the team. It is the place to rest your elbows on
this six-month-old Southern arm of Mauro modern age. On the menu at this smooth the table for a correctly prepared carbonara
Marcucci’s popular Sydney pizzeria. spot are piadine, panini and a few little and other old-school classics. To conclude
Carb-lovers, on the other hand, should cakes. Round the corner in the old Vue de it has to be the tiramisu, or a wander
head straight for the folded calzone; a monde site is his pizzeria, DOC (295 down the street to Il Dolce Freddo (116
tomato-free pizza bianco topped with Drummond St, Carlton, (03) 9347 2998) – a Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9639 3344) for a
olives and Italian sausage; or a version buzzy celebration of all things Italian, Ferrero Rocher ice cream. 303 Lygon St,
with Taleggio, mozzarella, gorgonzola focusing on cured meats, mozzarella and Carlton, (03) 9347 5759.
and parmesan that’s freshened by the the artisan thin-crust pizzas that made
addition of radicchio and pear. 60 Fitzroy Nicolini’s name at Templestowe Espresso. eNoTecA ViNo BAR
St, St Kilda, (03) 9537 3465. 326 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 8482. Set up by one of Australia’s leading
importers of Italian produce and wine,
i cARuSi ii ARRiVeDeRci this place oozes solid Italian respectability.
Opened by Pietro Barbagallo (a leading Few places can boast as many regulars as I still dream about the tripe I’ve eaten
contender for the title of Melbourne‘s best this professional Italian, which should be here, but I’m equally happy with a plate
pizzaiolo, and pioneer of the thin-crust, famous nationally for its pork chops. of their imported cheeses, some of the
artisinal style pizza), this whitewashed 191 Nicholson St, Carlton, (03) 9347 8252. smaller assaggini dishes like salted cod
room with a restrained farmhouse fritters with a puntarelle (chicory) salad,
ambience, still tries to live up to Pietro’s WooDSTocK or bucatini pasta with guanciale (cured
vision, even though he has moved on. Unpretentious and unashamedly Italian, pork) and salted ricotta. 920 Lygon St,
Expect good elastic dough carrying well- the food here is simple and from the south. Carlton North, (03) 9389 7070.
judged toppings of leek and gorgonzola, Anita Cannata’s gnocchi, and eggplant
or peach and white chocolate, perhaps. croquettes with chilli oil are things of ABRuzzo cluB
231 Barkly St, St Kilda, (03) 9593 6033. legend, while son Tony does the woodfired One suspects that Italian dialects are the
pizzas. A Sicilian topping of egg, peas and first language of the majority of both
For other St Kilda Italian moments, try pepper is a cracker. 612 Nicholson St, the waiters and the clientele at this noisy,
the pizzas and antipasti dishes from Mr Fitzroy North, (03) 9481 8122. old-school Italian. Call ahead to order
Wolf (9-15 Inkerman St, St Kilda, (03) 9534 one of their huge polentas served on a
0255), which is part of the lovely Ms BRuNeTTi wooden board. Or nip in for wonderful
Martini’s empire, or the understated Bar From early til late, this is a place to come for handmade pasta – if you’re lucky, it’s
Santo (7 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9534 great coffee, Italian pastries and a dizzying been cut on the chitarra (a harp-shaped
1236). For breakfast, it has to be a custard selection of biscotti, from amaretti to the pasta-cutting tool) by a team of local
bomboloni doughnut and a doppio (double famous brutti e buoni (ugly but good). Great nonnas who come in each week to keep
espresso) at Baker D. Chirico (Shop 3-4, for people watching, too. 194-204 Faraday this Abruzzese tradition alive. 377 Lygon
149 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, (03) 9534 3777). St, Carlton, (03) 9347 2801. St, Brunswick East, (03) 9388 2681.
64 delicious.
the guide.
Fresh selections at Baker
D. Chirico. From far left:
spaghetti marinara at
Abruzzo Club; gelati at
Il Dolce Freddo.
SuGARDouGh where to shop Also for fresh pasta, try Donninis Pasta
This cute bakery cafe set-up, on the site of a BAKeRS AND PASTicceRie (398 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 1655) or
50-year-old pasticceria, still uses some of While Melbourne’s undergone an explosion Yarra Valley Pasta (03 5962 1888) at the
their old recipes for treats like torta di ricotta, in sourdough baking, authentic Italian Prahran Market or in selected delis.
crostata and their famous bomboloni with breads are harder to find. Try Fatto a Mano For a boutique grocery experience, try
chocolate, custard, plum or apricot filling. (228 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9417 5998), King and Godfree (293 Lygon St, Carlton,
Or order one of their decadently thick O’Heas Bakery Deli (203 O’Hea St, Coburg, (03) 9347 1619), where you’ll find wines,
Italian hot chocolates. 163 Lygon St, (03) 9354 8070) and Baker D. Chirico (see imported oils and vinegars and cheeses.
Brunswick East, (03) 9380 4060. Southbank & St Kilda). For biscuits and A similarly sexy range of boutique products,
pastries, try the biscotti, panzerotti and including rices, artisan pastas, vin cotto and
lADRo sought-after sfogliatella ai ricotta at Brunetti fine wines, can be found at the retail arm of
Ladro’s popularity has never dipped, for (see North-West Wonders). They also sell Italian importer Enoteco Sileno (920 Lygon
their pizzas served in this small, but cool, gelati but you’ll find a wilder range of St, Carlton North, (03) 9389 7000).
crowded room of marble-topped tables. Yet flavours such as zabaglione with almond
the return of the wonderfully talented Rita bread at Gelobar Pasticceria (74 Lygon St, BuTcheRS
Macali (after illness) to the pans three days Brunswick East, (03) 9388 1419). Leo Donati’s magnificent guanciale (cured
a week is cause for renewed celebration – pig’s cheek) has lifted many a pedestrian
and not just because her pannacotta is FooD SToReS pasta all’amatriciana to new levels of
one of the city’s best. Welcome back, Rita! Thanks to the success of Italian exports deliciousness. You’ll find him and his son,
224 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9415 7575. and waves of migration, Melbourne has Marcello, at Donati’s Fine Meats (402
plenty of alimentari (grocery stores) where Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9347 4948).
GeRTRuDe ST eNoTecA you’ll hear people ordering in Italian. Otherwise, try the Veneto-style salami at
This groovy wine bar, run by Italian The bustling Mediterranean Wholesalers R&A Selected Meats (785 Nicholson St,
oenophile James Broadway and Brigitte (482 Sydney Rd, Brunswick, (03) 9380 Carlton North, (03) 9380 1357) or nip over
Hafner, offers great wines and snacky food. 4777) has sardines, buckets of salt-packed to Brenta Meats (103 Station St, Fairfield,
229 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9415 8262. capers, hundreds of different pastas, and (03) 9489 0820) for Italian cuts, salsicce
cheeses such as salted ricotta, Reggiano (sausages) and goat. Gervasi Foodworks
A Melbourne cafe pioneer, Marios (303 and fontina. They also have a very Italian (870 Sydney Rd, Brunswick, (03) 9386 0170)
Brunswick St, Fitzroy, (03) 9417 3343) serves cafe and pastry section. is an Italian supermarket with a butchery
great coffee even an ornery Italian would Smaller, but no less exhilarating, is for smallgoods and Italian sausages.
respect. Other charming spots worth Maria’s Coffee House (793 Nicholson St,
visiting in this area include Sosta Cucina Carlton North, (03) 9380 5488), which is BoTTle ShoPS
(12 Errol St, North Melbourne, (03) 9329 skewed more towards artisan products and Besides bottle-os connected to food stores,
2882); Kin (499-501 Lygon St, Carlton cheeses, like a choice of provolones. For it’s worth checking out specialists like
North, (03) 9387 8337); Cafe Bedda (242 fresh pasta, visit Maria’s Select Foods (677 Tre Bicchieri (623 Rathdowne St, Carlton
High St, Northcote, (03) 9482 9420); and Nicholson St, Carlton North, (03) 9380 North, (03) 9347 0989) and Gertrude St
Pizza Meine Liebe (231 High St, 5800). In the east, you can try Cardamone Enoteca (see North-West Wonders) for
Northcote, (03) 9482 7001). (143 Station St, Fairfield, (03) 9481 0586). unique, premium Italian wines. d.
66 delicious.