Designers made a statement with a plethora of suits and sport coats by yaosaigeng


									Designers made a statement with a plethora of suits
and sport coats, offering styles for every market.
Uptrending retail sales reflect a growing number of
customers who dress up out of desire and not
necessity. Contemporary elements like soft
shoulders, cropped bodies and one-button jacket
silhouettes, as well as active-inspired fabrics and
new, softened tweeds, speak to the man in search
of a fashion suit. Slim cuts are the new norm, with
baggy pants and oversized jackets leading the
edge. Formalwear was renewed with velvets, peak
or shawl lapels, and casual takes on black tie.
Finally, Savile Row tradition found its way back to
fashion with contemporary versions of double-
breasted jackets, three-piece suits, Donegal tweeds
and natty checks — making the suit right for
everyday and any occasion, whether corporate or
Iceberg                    Viktor & Rolf                            Junya Watanabe                             Issey Miyake

          Casual tweeds relaxed suits / Unconstructed bodies and soft shoulders are essential / Visible weaves and bold
          color are key / Clean or bushed surfaces / Herringbone, houndstooth and tweed / Colored flecks or neps add
          vintage-y appeal / The new tweeds are ultra-soft wovens, or even new cut-and-sew knit suitings

          Related Report: Material Trend Alert > Vintage-y Appeal
Ermenegildo Zegna                                                           Antonio Azzuolo                               Calvin Klein

                    Salt and pepper-colored tweed inspired by Savile Row classics / Soft woolens styled with activewear for a novel
                    juxtapostion / Many designers collaborated with Harris Tweed or used Donegal tweed
Jil Sander                    Loden Dager                               Marlon Gobel                       Marc by Marc Jacobs

             Tweed gets a makeover with bold new hues / Suits in bright citrus colors are the most fashion-forward for
             winter / Navy or green tweeds enliven basic blazers / Camel-colored herringbone suit has vintage appeal
Maison Martin Margiela                   Adam Kimmel                                      Nautica                             Tommy Hilfiger

                         Corduroy brings a comfortable autumnal feel to suits and jackets / Thin-wale versions for dressier styles / Plush
                         wide-wale corduroy for more casual looks / Soft greys and taupes look right for monochrome dressing
Missoni                           DKNY                             Junya Watanabe                            Dirk Bikkembergs

          Cut-and-sew blazers and suits offer a comfortable, active option / Tonal piping outlines seams / Unlined and
          soft-shouldered construction / Styled over tees as well as woven shirts / Fair Isle motifs borrowed from winter
          sweaters look new for tailored blazer / Knitted shawl collar completes the look
Etro                      DSquared2                                        D&G                         Daniele Alessandrini

       Soft-shouldered shrunken jackets combined with cropped pants is still one of the most directional silhouettes for
       tailored clothing / Washed and rumpled fabrics and laidback styling / Thin-wale corduroy for a casual suit /
       Cropped pants varied from loose and straight to slim and tapered / Most jackets were unconstructed or half-
       lined for ultra-relaxed style
Carlo Pignatelli                            Etro                       Marc by Marc Jacobs                                       Canali

                   Sophisticated patterns used for suits and sport coats increase interest in basic silhouettes / Dark shadow plaids
                   complement wool flannel / Brighter hues paired up with menswear neutrals / Subtle windowpane checks /
                   Double-breasted suits conjure the Duke of Windsor / Houndstooth and mini-neats take a subtler approach
Z Zegna                           Acne                        Salvatore Ferragamo                                  Perry Ellis

          Tailored clothing made from camelhair (or just in the color) has a luxurious, classic look / Often styled with
          brown or grey / Some suits, but mostly seen as blazers and sportcoats / Double-breasted jackets in camelhair
          for classic look / Worn with knit pants for directional styling
Junya Watanabe                  Carlo Pignatelli                                Corneliani                                Neil Barrett

                 Mixed materials and pieced fabrics were important to all classifications / Corduroy pockets on tweed and soft
                 woolens / Solid sleeves on plaid suits / Patchwork of traditional suiting fabrics / Pieced tonal panels create
                 ombré effect, worn with solid pants
Boxy fits provide an emerging silhouette for menswear / Cropped three-button jackets with strong shoulders /
Low button stance on jackets accentuates ill fit / Large-scale plaids inspired by power suits of the 80s / No
shoulder seam, one-piece construction creates fashion-forward rounded shape
Lanvin            Comme Des Garcons                                   Dior Homme                              Yohji Yamamoto

         Suits with relaxed and baggy fits are for more directional markets / Greys and blacks dominate / Longer jacket
         shapes and loose-fitting pants / Pleats often used to control volume on pants / Hints at roomier silhouettes for
         seasons ahead / Pieced fabrics or printed patchwork motif (on velvet) brings more newness
Costume National                          Smalto                                      Gucci                                           D&G

                   One-button jackets move from formalwear to a contemporary option for suiting / Low-button stance allows for
                   more shirt and tie to show / Mini shawl collar and cutaway silhouette is black tie appropriate / High-gorge vest
                   creates a new proportion under a low-cut jacket / Classic suiting fabrics or new casual knits contrast with more
                   dressy one-button silhouette
Carlo Pignatelli                            D&G                                         Etro                                 Bespoken

                   Tailored vests remain popular / Shown as an item or matched to pants or jacket / Double-breasted tweeds
                   looked new / Prince of Wales plaid layered over contrasting patterned shirts / Contrast piping helps make it a
                   standalone piece / Soft and casual woolens complete the vintage-inspired aesthetic
Buckler                           D&G                            Dries Van Noten                      Salvatore Ferragamo

          Double-breasted suits and jackets uptrend for all markets / Cropped and slim fit important for Contemporary
          customer / Longer traditional fit now seems fashion-forward / V-shaped button placement helps jackets appear
          slimmer / Low button stance had a more directional look / Exaggerated roping at shoulders inspired by 1930s
          styles / Shown with baggy, drop-crotch or slim pants
Buckler                   Duckie Brown                             Bottega Veneta                         Vivienne Westwood

          Classic three-button suits styled in contemporary ways / Slim fit and high button stance is key / Lower button
          placement has a casual feel / Asymmetric plackets on cutaway jackets puts a fashion-forward spin on timeless
          suit styles
Vivienne Westwood                    Umit Benan                           Band of Outsiders                                    Canali

                    Power suits take on a new look with three-piece styles / High gorge vests visible when jackets are fully
                    buttoned / Patterns like Prince of Wales plaids take on new importance / Added value when parts of suit can be
                    worn with casual sportswear / Peak lapels and classic chalkstripe flannel make a return to contemporary suits
Kenzo                     Umit Benan                            Band of Outsiders                                      Smalto

        Shawl-collared jackets worn in a casual way for high-low styling / Looks new for everyday suits / Novel detail
        for basic navy blazers / Tuxedo jacket has pieced detail on shawl lapel / Mini shawl collar on suit for a subtle
        yet directional look
Gucci                 Tommy Hilfiger                              Copperwheat                        Salvatore Ferragamo

        Peak lapels move away from just tuxedos / Contrasts with slim one-button silhouettes / Dressy suits can double
        as black tie-appropriate / Pick stitching along lapel borrows from bespoke suit / Double-breasted jackets with
        peak lapels look traditional / Used with non-neutral colors for a casual reinterpretation
Gant by Michael Bastian               Dirk Bikkembergs                                       Canali                             Roberto Cavalli

                          Classic tuxedos and formalwear continue to evolve / Vivid-colored jacket worn in casual ways / Jersey tuxedos
                          with satin or grosgrain lapels has an active appeal / Dark navy emerges as key alternative to black / Allover pin
                          dot motif / Satin shawl collar in slightly contrasting color looks romantic
Roberto Cavalli                          Canali                            Dries Van Noten                                          Etro

                  Lush velvet suits in rich colors could be worn for day or evening / Can be worn as separates as well as suits /
                  Bottle green, merlot and dove grey / Peak or shawl collar lapels get a bit more formal / Double-breasted
                  silhouettes look new in these plush fabric / Printed velvet for regal-boho elegance
Louis Vuitton                    Loden Dager                                      Buckler                                     Kenzo

                Cutaway jackets influenced by Victorian fashion lose their formal connotation / Longer bodies prevail, but shorter
                styles emerge / Low button stance accentuates silhouette / A directional look for tuxedos and formalwear
John Richmond                Dolce & Gabbana                                      Versace                                         Rynshu

                High shine and texture were imperative for directional suits and blazers / Three-piece styles in tonal animal
                motifs / Translucent layers created innovative moiré effects / Mylar, iridescent nylon, and layered silk mesh /
                Basketweave jacquard motifs for visual and tactile dimension

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