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How to fill a dent – Part 1

Cut repair costs by doing body work on small dents and gouges yourself. Be

patient, take your time, and you’ll be able to get results that will rival the work of a

professional body shop.



Gather:

 Sandpaper (150 grit, 220 grit and wet/dry 400 grit)

 Body filler (with hardener included in the kit)

 Glazing (or spot) putty

 Rigid plastic spreader

 Flexible plastic spreader

 Masking tape and large sheets of paper

 Automotive primer

 Spray water bottle



Step 1: Prepare the surface

Because body filler doesn’t stick well to paint, you’ll have to sand down to bare

metal before you fill your dent. Use a heavy grit sandpaper (150-grit) to remove

the paint fast. Don’t be concerned about the rough texture; you’ll be smoothing

everything out later. Remove the paint from at least 3” around the dent to do the

job right.



Step 2: Mix the filler

The most common brand of filler is Bondo, but other brands work similarly. You’ll

be mixing up a two-part epoxy by adding a cream hardener to a base filler.

Follow the package directions to mix the filler using a rigid plastic spreader. Mix it

up on a clean surface like cardboard. Since the filler won’t stick to plastic, many

people use an old plastic plate or Frisbee as a mixing tray. NOTE: The filler

hardens fast once you add the cream, so be ready to move onto the next step of

applying the filler once you mix. You’ll have up to about 5 minutes to work once

it’s mixed.



Step 3: Apply the filler

Working quickly but carefully, use the flexible plastic spreader to spread the filler

into the damaged area and 3 inches around it. It’s OK to be a bit uneven because

you’ll be sanding everything once the filler hardens.



Now, let the filler dry. Check the package directions for drying times and signs

that you’re ready for the next steps, outlined in Part 2 of this story.



How to fill a dent – Part 2

In Part 1 of this story, you learned how to prepare and fill your automobile’s dent

or gouge. Now that the filler is in place and dry, it’s time to finish the job.



Step 4: Sand the filler

Wrap the 150-grit sandpaper around a rubber sanding block (or other block of

your choice). Sand the entire surface of the repair lightly, using broad, circular

strokes, going past the edge of the filler for a smother transition to the

surrounding undamaged area. If you see gaps or pits in the filled spot, mix more

filler and add it until you’re certain the area is filled. Of course, you’ll have to wait

for the new filler to dry again. That’s why this process requires patience. Once

you’re sure the filler is nearly smooth, use 220-grit sandpaper on the entire area,

continuing to sand until the area feels even and smooth. Remember, you’ll

eventually sand away most of the filler and will be left with a filled dent and a

smooth area.



Step 5: Glaze the area

Apply glaze (or spot) putty directly from the tube to the repair. This product will fill

in any tiny impressions remaining in the already sanded filler. Use a flexible

plastic spreader to smooth the glaze over the repair. Even though it dries faster

than the first putty you used, be sure it’s truly dry before you move to the next

step.



Step 6: More sanding

Lightly and evenly sand away the spot putty using 400-grit sandpaper until it’s

completely flat.



Step 7: Primer time

Before you use spray primer to seal and protect your repair, protect the rest of

your vehicle by masking off the repair area. Apply a spray primer in light, even

coats, avoiding all other areas (including tires). Remember, use light even coats,

not one heavy coat of primer.



Step 8: Primer’s last sand

After the coat of primer has completely dried, remove the masking tape and

paper from around the repair. Spray the repair area and the 400 grit wet/dry

sandpaper with water and sand the primer using a back and forth (not circular)

motion. Be sure to keep the area and the sandpaper wet as you work. If you see

metal, you’ve probably sanded away too much primer and you’ll have to prime

and sand again. Be thorough but be careful.



Step 9: Paint

Retail spray touchup paint rarely looks good on spot repairs. Use the money you

saved on the repair to get a professional paint job. It’s worth every penny.



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